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Old 10-14-2012, 09:07 AM   #14656
swimmer
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Doofenshmirtz View Post
. The Tiger does burn oil and will not maintain the full amount between changes.....

I just love sweeping statements like this.

Another one here with no noticeable oil burn.
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Old 10-14-2012, 10:12 AM   #14657
henkew
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Handlebar Thermomoter

Quote:
Originally Posted by deltamark View Post
Have a 2012 Tiger XC800 and want to order a handlebar mount for an accessory thermometer. Anyone know what size the handlebar is? (7/8 -1" or more than 1") Can't find any spec on this. Thinking it's more than 1".
I've tried two mounts from clocks4bikes.com. I have the OEM heated grips and fog lights and I want to put the thermometer next to. The bar is a bit oblong at that point and 7/8 is too small and a 1" is too big. I can install a 7/8 facing up or down, but not where I can see it. Ross at Clocks4Bikes is awesome though, he's milling a 7/8 to slightly oversize it so it will fit. I'll let you know how it goes when I get it.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:15 PM   #14658
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I just love sweeping statements like this.

Another one here with no noticeable oil burn.

1000 miles so far no sign of oil consumption
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:19 PM   #14659
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yes its still here as i drive by it every day on my WR250r :) mabey i should take a pic of it with my bike out front cause im really bored right now
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:21 PM   #14660
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opps wrong thread
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:21 PM   #14661
levain
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Quote:
Originally Posted by swimmer View Post
I just love sweeping statements like this.

Another one here with no noticeable oil burn.
+1. mine burns zero oil. 14,000 miles later.
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Old 10-14-2012, 12:32 PM   #14662
KildareMan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mercury264 View Post
Scorpion with the baffle in is pretty quite too while giving the Tigger a nice sound.
+1 on that. Actually increased numbers of holes by 3 rows for slightly more though

Sent from my Tiger 800
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Old 10-14-2012, 01:54 PM   #14663
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Mine has 27,000 miles well see if your bikes are still not burning when you get close to my mileage. I didn't burn oil either when i was under 10K. Its not some big deal just saying to keep a eye on it. The last couple oil changes i had to top off at the mid point.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:04 PM   #14664
bluesman
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The theory of cylinder glazing does not really sounds viable to me...

After 7500 km I had to add 200 ml of oil to have "top" level but unfortunately I did not check level after first service - not sure if it was middle or top level initially. I am going to watch it now.
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Old 10-14-2012, 02:20 PM   #14665
invicta1
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Mine actually produces oil as it goes. Makes me a nice little side income.
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Old 10-15-2012, 02:19 AM   #14666
blacktiger
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr. Doofenshmirtz View Post
Mine has 27,000 miles well see if your bikes are still not burning when you get close to my mileage. I didn't burn oil either when i was under 10K. Its not some big deal just saying to keep a eye on it. The last couple oil changes i had to top off at the mid point.
Well, my Tig955 has 67000 miles on the clock and still doesn't use any oil. I ran them in the same way.
I will add that all these triples seem to burn a little if you rev them high. Above 6K mostly. I guess that applies to most engines. The good thing about Triumph triples is that you don't have to rev the nuts off them to make good progress.
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Old 10-15-2012, 07:57 AM   #14667
Mercury264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ducnut View Post
First off, YMMV.

From trackday experience, on the street, you'd never want to run a stickier tire on the rear than what you have on the front. It's a lot easier to over-ride the rear and still catch it. The front, not so much. An easier way to think about it is the stickier rear will push the front, on asphalt. On the dirt, I'd think it'd be OK, as a lot of dirttrack schools teach students using a street rear and a knobby or dirttrack tire on the front.

I know that some tires have different carcass construction that don't lend too well to other construction types. The profile and belt layouts are designed to run as a matched set. I don't know, with those tires.

You can always try it and see. If it doesn't work out, order whichever tire you want to end up on and swap it out. I once ran a set of tires, for ~200 miles, and hated them. I pulled them and sold 'em.
Thanks

Quote:
Originally Posted by PYG RYDR View Post
I have the Mefo front and the Heidenaus rear. Both have 3600 miles. The rear looks great with many miles left and the feel has been good on all surfaces-still loads with mud. The front provided good traction-still greasy in mud, but the sides are mostly gone and needs replaced soon. I will try a TKC80 or the Heidenaus front next time.

If you are riding mostly asphalt with your Battlewing rear, I would choose something other than the Mefo.
I should have added that I am due to go on a trip to Maine in a week or so that will involve some highway (to get there) and then a fair bit of dirt roads etc. and I'm sure some mud along the way. I put another Battlewing on the rear since I needed a new tire and I was going on a trip to Montreal, 2-up with no chance of dirt.
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:16 AM   #14668
browneye
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Oil usage?

Uh, yeah, cylinders don't 'glaze'. A cross-hatch hone puts fine scratches into the barrel that the rings wear down until the surface is smooth. This is required for the rings to get a good seal. If those scratches aren't worn down sufficiently during breakin then the rings don't seal as well as they could thus allowing some blow-by. Through extended running the rings begin to wear and the gap in the ends will enlarge also allowing oil by.

So the solution is to run them with a conventional oil for a few hundred miles, varied speeds with low load, hard decelleration as well as accelleration, and then switch to a full synthetic once the barrels have been ground down smooth by the rings. Since you can't see inside the motor to verify this, you have to do this 'break in period' based on the manufacturers recommendation.

I swear by a very early oil change to get rid of initial wear material that is dispursed in the oil, and any assembly dirt or debris. Like at around 200-250 miles. Then run-in to about 1200-1500 miles and switch to full syn. I've done this with the last four new bikes I've bought and they all ran super clean, no oil usage. My Tiger is not different, 3K miles and it isn't down any.

I would not go 6K between changes with any oil. Especially not with a mixed gearbox and crankcase configuration. Three to four thousand is plenty, oil changes are cheap, and you don't have to worry about oil degradation in that interval (OCI). If you really want to extend the OCI send a sample in for testing/analysis (blackstone) so you know your additive package isn't being completely depleted and your viscosity index isn't changing drastically. Synthetic is a lot more shear stable than conventional, but still, running oil in a wet clutch and gears put different stresses on the oil than in a car engine. Hell, I don't even go that long on the cars - 10K OCI gets changed at about half of that. I don't bother with an analysis, just change it out.

BTW, I have a GM 8.1L in a RV chassis that are notorious for using a lot of oil - up to a quart in 1200 miles. I used this same breakin process as I always do and mine uses about a half quart in 3K miles. The only caveat for this motor is fuel consumption....it gets about 7.5mpg. At $5 a gallon it's $350 to fill the tank. OUCH!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 09:27 AM   #14669
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Heres my new baby picked her up on friday

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Old 10-15-2012, 09:49 AM   #14670
burmbuster
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Very nice!
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