2005 KTM 950 ADV Questions

Sumi · 07-16-2010, 06:39 AM

Hi everybody!

I've just rode home my new (to me) Adventure.

I have some questions, since I've never had a KTM:

Is it normal, that it grinds the gear, when switching to 1st (I think it's not normal)?
My rear brake goes byebye, if it gets hot.. How do I know, if I have the new master cylinder?
Also the little window on the master cyl (rear) has some very little bubbles in it.. maybe 3-4 real tiny ones.

Thanks in advance!
Sumi.

Pampera · 07-16-2010, 08:38 AM

Congratulations on your purchase!

If you have had the new kit fitted to your back brake it should be recorded on KTM's central computer.

Go along to your nearest official KTM dealer and they will help. My understanding is that if the work has not been done it should be done for you free of charge. That's the case in the UK, anyway.

It certainly sounds as though it needs attention in any case.

The clutch can be a little 'draggy' causing the gear grinding when cold if the bike has not been used for a time, but it should not continue to do it when the bike is warm or has been recently used.

Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and top-up if necessary (use the mineral fluid specified and not brake fluid).

Also check the adjuster at the lever: if there is too much free play the lever may not be moving the piston far enough.

Hopefully, that should cure it. If not take off the slave cylinder and check for leaks (it's a weak point). Replacement it relatively easy: the new component from KTM has upgraded seals and costs about £80 here in the UK. You can also get aftermarket ones of a different design for similar price, but I don't know what they are like.

Sumi · 07-16-2010, 09:14 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Pampera

Congratulations on your purchase!

If you have had the new kit fitted to your back brake it should be recorded on KTM's central computer.

Go along to your nearest official KTM dealer and they will help. My understanding is that if the work has not been done it should be done for you free of charge. That's the case in the UK, anyway.

It certainly sounds as though it needs attention in any case.

The clutch can be a little 'draggy' causing the gear grinding when cold if the bike has not been used for a time, but it should not continue to do it when the bike is warm or has been recently used.

Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and top-up if necessary (use the mineral fluid specified and not brake fluid).

Also check the adjuster at the lever: if there is too much free play the lever may not be moving the piston far enough.

Hopefully, that should cure it. If not take off the slave cylinder and check for leaks (it's a weak point). Replacement it relatively easy: the new component from KTM has upgraded seals and costs about £80 here in the UK. You can also get aftermarket ones of a different design for similar price, but I don't know what they are like.

Thanks for the answers.. well the clutch is ok when cold, grinds when warm... I'll check the fluid level.. Thank you!

Sumi · 07-16-2010, 11:38 AM

Hello again!

I took her for a ride, and I don't know if this is normal, but when going at for example 60miles/h, and then shutting the throttle all close, a few pops are coming out of the exhaust (not big bangs, but just pops.. It's even hard to hear it, when the helmet is closed.) Is this a backfiring issue? Something wrong with the carbs? Everything is stock on the bike, sas, etc.. are all there.. The bike is a EUR version.

Thanks:)
Sumi

petesonhisway · 07-16-2010, 12:06 PM

Congratulations on the new bike - where in Hungary are you? I have travelled throught a few times and stayed by Lake Balaton for a while.

First, the clunking - don't worry it comes and goes, and is often as you say - you ride for 20 mins without stopping, then stop at some traffic lights and clunk!- it's like you have no clutch. Then you pull away and change through the gears as smoothly as ever! I guess it's just part of the bike's character.

The rear brake - your symptoms are just like the problem with the old brake. As Pampera says, the KTM dealer system is networked and if you give your bike's VIN to any dealer he can check what updates are relevant to your bike and which have not been done. They should be able to do this for you even over the phone - for them it's as easy as a google search.

The exhaust popping. Do you have a replacement exhaust fitted (ie Akra, Wings etc?)

The bike has a secondary air system (SAS) which is supposed to burn off any remaining fuel by adding fresh air to the exhaust gases as they come out of the cylinder. The residue is then caught by the catalytic converter which is inside the KTM exhaust cans (Partly why they are so f***ing heavy).

If you replace the KTM cans with non-cat ones then the result is a popping noise in deceleration, which is harmless, but if you don't like it you can disable the SAS easily enough. To repeat, this only applies if you have a bike with aftermarket cans. If you have the original cans, this may be a tuning issue.

Hope some of this makes sense - it has been written partly by me and partly by Mr Heineken

Pete

Sumi · 07-16-2010, 12:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by petesonhisway

Congratulations on the new bike - where in Hungary are you? I have travelled throught a few times and stayed by Lake Balaton for a while.

First, the clunking - don't worry it comes and goes, and is often as you say - you ride for 20 mins without stopping, then stop at some traffic lights and clunk!- it's like you have no clutch. Then you pull away and change through the gears as smoothly as ever! I guess it's just part of the bike's character.

The rear brake - your symptoms are just like the problem with the old brake. As Pampera says, the KTM dealer system is networked and if you give your bike's VIN to any dealer he can check what updates are relevant to your bike and which have not been done. They should be able to do this for you even over the phone - for them it's as easy as a google search.

The exhaust popping. Do you have a replacement exhaust fitted (ie Akra, Wings etc?)

The bike has a secondary air system (SAS) which is supposed to burn off any remaining fuel by adding fresh air to the exhaust gases as they come out of the cylinder. The residue is then caught by the catalytic converter which is inside the KTM exhaust cans (Partly why they are so f***ing heavy).

If you replace the KTM cans with non-cat ones then the result is a popping noise in deceleration, which is harmless, but if you don't like it you can disable the SAS easily enough. To repeat, this only applies if you have a bike with aftermarket cans. If you have the original cans, this may be a tuning issue.

Hope some of this makes sense - it has been written partly by me and partly by Mr Heineken

Pete

Thank you very-very much! I'm from Budapest, that's the capital of Hungary. Lake Balaton is a nice place, I used to go there for the summer holiday, when I was younger (ok, I'm just 25 right now, so it was only a couple of years ago)..
Yup I have the stock cans.. Everything is stock on the bike, 20k kms in her. And yes, she's sometimes grinding, sometimes she's just smooth as silk. I thought that I'm not pulling the clutch lever in enough, but thats not the case. Tried to adjust it, didn't work (by the way, it sometimes gives a rattling sound, when pulled (even if it's in neutral), is this ok?)..
Anyways.. I love the bike.. She is just so fantastic! Went today to work with her, and the 16km home trip took me 80kms:) I can't get off her:) Every 10 minutes I'm going out to the garage, and I'm checking her... Just to see her. As someone said in another thread.. The feeling is like dating with the hottest girl in town:)

And I have to tell you, I've been reading this forum for a couple of months now - even though I didn't post anything - But this "little" community on advrider is just fantastic!

So thank you again for the answers!
Sumi.

Sumi · 07-18-2010, 07:09 AM

Today she fell over while standing on the sidestand (in sand)...

The clutch levers tip broke off:( (where it should) and some minor scratches are now on the hand guard...

Some fluid also came out of her (she falled on the left side), what can this be? petrol? coolant?

Boy I was sad

Sumi.

MortimerSickle · 07-18-2010, 08:59 AM

I had the same problem with clutch drag, until I flushed out the old fluid. It works just fine now.

Edit: BTW, this is the clutch fluid I use. It works great (for 3 years now,) it's dirt cheap, and it's available in any town that has babies.

Sumi · 07-18-2010, 10:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MortimerSickle

I had the same problem with clutch drag, until I flushed out the old fluid. It works just fine now.

Edit: BTW, this is the clutch fluid I use. It works great (for 3 years now,) it's dirt cheap, and it's available in any town that has babies.

No kiddin'? You are using "baby oil" as the clutch fluid?!

shakin_jake · 07-18-2010, 11:04 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MortimerSickle

I had the same problem with clutch drag, until I flushed out the old fluid. It works just fine now.

Edit: BTW, this is the clutch fluid I use. It works great (for 3 years now,) it's dirt cheap, and it's available in any town that has babies.

~~~~Love it, Love it, Love it

Baby oil is mineral oil after all

Cheap and cheerful

Jake
Reddick Fla.
I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there.
-Herb Caen

Sumi · 07-18-2010, 11:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by shakin_jake

~~~~Love it, Love it, Love it

Baby oil is mineral oil after all

Cheap and cheerful

Jake
Reddick Fla.
I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there.
-Herb Caen

Very nice:) I like the idea:) Now I'm curious about when motorex is going to produce baby oil:)

Anybody knows the ref# of the clutch lever?:)

HWSNBN · 07-18-2010, 12:18 PM

Mineral oil is what the book calls for but many of us have found that there is a chemical reaction between the oil and the sintered aluminum slave cylinder bore that causes slow oxidation and eventual slave failure. A light 3w synthetic hydraulic fluid is a much better choice as it will not react with the aluminum. Some people have used slightly heavier ATF in a pinch and say its fine too. I use fork oil.

There has never been a known failure reported her of the slave by those of us running synth clutch fluid. Every failure has been accompanied by the use of mineral oil.

The slaves bore enlarges and typically the piston cocks and breaks or the cylinder simply leaks and requires frequent replacements of the O-Ring.

MortimerSickle · 07-18-2010, 07:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Sumi

No kiddin'? You are using "baby oil" as the clutch fluid?!

Yes, but I can't take credit. I had read of many other people using it, and it is pure (except for a minute amount of fragrance) mineral oil, so I gave it a try.

I have been using it for three years, and have had no problems. And, until reading post #12 in this thread, I have never heard of anyone else having trouble either.

I believe that both hydraulic oil, and ATF are mineral oil as well, and I have not heard of trouble with them either. However, they are usually more expensive, and not quite so readily available.

HWSNBN · 07-19-2010, 05:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MortimerSickle

reading post #12 in this thread, I have never heard of anyone else having trouble either.

Clutch slaves are a well known problem, and a lot of guys have had them go out.

Your swapping out baby oil pretty regularly. Let me ask, when you drain it out does it come out black?

Quote:

Originally Posted by MortimerSickle

I believe that both hydraulic oil, and ATF are mineral oil as well

keyword was 'synthetic'

MortimerSickle · 07-19-2010, 09:34 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWSNBN

Clutch slaves are a well known problem, and a lot of guys have had them go out.

I have heard that the slave has a high failure rate, but I had not heard that the problem was fluid-related. Most of what I have read blames poor design. I don't know any of this from expericnce, because mine still works.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWSNBN

Let me ask, when you drain it out does it come out black?

No, though it is darker than when fresh, just as is brake fluid when flushing those systems.

Quote:

Originally Posted by HWSNBN

keyword was 'synthetic'

OK, you got me on that one.

I don't pretend to know all about this bike, and I don't mean to tell anyone what is best. All I know for sure is what has been my experience. And, my experience on this issue is that my slave cylinder is six years old, it has lived half its life on baby oil, and it still operates as new.

Crap, now I've done it. I've opened my mouth, and now it will fail tomorrow.

07-18-2010, 07:09 AM	#7
Sumi ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2010 Location: Hungary Oddometer: 1,148	Today she fell over while standing on the sidestand (in sand)... The clutch levers tip broke off:( (where it should) and some minor scratches are now on the hand guard... Some fluid also came out of her (she falled on the left side), what can this be? petrol? coolant? Boy I was sad Sumi. Sumi screwed with this post 07-18-2010 at 11:43 AM

07-18-2010, 08:59 AM	#8
MortimerSickle Semi-Adventurer Joined: Dec 2005 Location: Rainville, Orygun, where moss is a road hazard. Oddometer: 9,847	I had the same problem with clutch drag, until I flushed out the old fluid. It works just fine now. Edit: BTW, this is the clutch fluid I use. It works great (for 3 years now,) it's dirt cheap, and it's available in any town that has babies. __________________ I miss round headlights. "When I was a young man, I liked to race my horse...." - G.H.W.S. 1878-1962 MortimerSickle screwed with this post 07-18-2010 at 09:22 AM

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07-16-2010, 06:39 AM	#1
Sumi ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2010 Location: Hungary Oddometer: 1,148	2005 KTM 950 ADV Questions Hi everybody! I've just rode home my new (to me) Adventure. I have some questions, since I've never had a KTM: Is it normal, that it grinds the gear, when switching to 1st (I think it's not normal)? My rear brake goes byebye, if it gets hot.. How do I know, if I have the new master cylinder? Also the little window on the master cyl (rear) has some very little bubbles in it.. maybe 3-4 real tiny ones. Thanks in advance! Sumi.

07-16-2010, 08:38 AM	#2
Pampera Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Jan 2007 Oddometer: 442	Congratulations on your purchase! If you have had the new kit fitted to your back brake it should be recorded on KTM's central computer. Go along to your nearest official KTM dealer and they will help. My understanding is that if the work has not been done it should be done for you free of charge. That's the case in the UK, anyway. It certainly sounds as though it needs attention in any case. The clutch can be a little 'draggy' causing the gear grinding when cold if the bike has not been used for a time, but it should not continue to do it when the bike is warm or has been recently used. Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder and top-up if necessary (use the mineral fluid specified and not brake fluid). Also check the adjuster at the lever: if there is too much free play the lever may not be moving the piston far enough. Hopefully, that should cure it. If not take off the slave cylinder and check for leaks (it's a weak point). Replacement it relatively easy: the new component from KTM has upgraded seals and costs about £80 here in the UK. You can also get aftermarket ones of a different design for similar price, but I don't know what they are like.

07-16-2010, 11:38 AM	#4
Sumi ^OP Beastly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2010 Location: Hungary Oddometer: 1,148	Hello again! I took her for a ride, and I don't know if this is normal, but when going at for example 60miles/h, and then shutting the throttle all close, a few pops are coming out of the exhaust (not big bangs, but just pops.. It's even hard to hear it, when the helmet is closed.) Is this a backfiring issue? Something wrong with the carbs? Everything is stock on the bike, sas, etc.. are all there.. The bike is a EUR version. Thanks:) Sumi

07-16-2010, 12:06 PM	#5
petesonhisway Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Mar 2004 Oddometer: 383	Congratulations on the new bike - where in Hungary are you? I have travelled throught a few times and stayed by Lake Balaton for a while. First, the clunking - don't worry it comes and goes, and is often as you say - you ride for 20 mins without stopping, then stop at some traffic lights and clunk!- it's like you have no clutch. Then you pull away and change through the gears as smoothly as ever! I guess it's just part of the bike's character. The rear brake - your symptoms are just like the problem with the old brake. As Pampera says, the KTM dealer system is networked and if you give your bike's VIN to any dealer he can check what updates are relevant to your bike and which have not been done. They should be able to do this for you even over the phone - for them it's as easy as a google search. The exhaust popping. Do you have a replacement exhaust fitted (ie Akra, Wings etc?) The bike has a secondary air system (SAS) which is supposed to burn off any remaining fuel by adding fresh air to the exhaust gases as they come out of the cylinder. The residue is then caught by the catalytic converter which is inside the KTM exhaust cans (Partly why they are so f***ing heavy). If you replace the KTM cans with non-cat ones then the result is a popping noise in deceleration, which is harmless, but if you don't like it you can disable the SAS easily enough. To repeat, this only applies if you have a bike with aftermarket cans. If you have the original cans, this may be a tuning issue. Hope some of this makes sense - it has been written partly by me and partly by Mr Heineken Pete

07-18-2010, 12:18 PM	#12
HWSNBN Banned Joined: Mar 2008 Location: Playing a d00d, disguised as another d00d Oddometer: 2,897	Fwiw Mineral oil is what the book calls for but many of us have found that there is a chemical reaction between the oil and the sintered aluminum slave cylinder bore that causes slow oxidation and eventual slave failure. A light 3w synthetic hydraulic fluid is a much better choice as it will not react with the aluminum. Some people have used slightly heavier ATF in a pinch and say its fine too. I use fork oil. There has never been a known failure reported her of the slave by those of us running synth clutch fluid. Every failure has been accompanied by the use of mineral oil. The slaves bore enlarges and typically the piston cocks and breaks or the cylinder simply leaks and requires frequent replacements of the O-Ring.