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Old 12-14-2010, 07:55 AM   #46
Ridin'nFishin OP
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Interesting, I am thinking of putting mine back together and trying different shifting methods and thicker oil. Moto Hank looked at it and could find anything but a little drag on the intermediate shaft, told me to put it back together and try it with Redline 90-140 oil, all I will lose by doing this is my time.

Where did you get the tranny, does this person have another? I would look in it myself. Want you money back?


Quote:
Originally Posted by Beemer Bob View Post
My '96 1100 RT does the skip in 3rd but I found if I shift without the clutch it almost never happens.......I did purchase a used M97 transmission for $500 but don't know the condition. May send it off for overhaul before installing.
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Old 12-14-2010, 08:16 AM   #47
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Many shifting issues can be resolved by the addition of moly to the transmission oil.

I use 75w-140 GL-5 with about 5% moly additive (in the FD as well).I have no shifting problems and the transmission runs cooler. Moly is a EP friction modifier....try it.
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Old 12-14-2010, 09:14 AM   #48
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Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
Many shifting issues can be resolved by the addition of moly to the transmission oil.

I use 75w-140 GL-5 with about 5% moly additive (in the FD as well).I have no shifting problems and the transmission runs cooler. Moly is a EP friction modifier....try it.

This is along the lines of what I have been told and read.
Thanks for your input, what brand of oil do you use?
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Old 12-14-2010, 05:08 PM   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Multisurface Rider View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by def View Post
Many shifting issues can be resolved by the addition of moly to the transmission oil.

I use 75w-140 GL-5 with about 5% moly additive (in the FD as well).I have no shifting problems and the transmission runs cooler. Moly is a EP friction modifier....try it.
This is along the lines of what I have been told and read.
Thanks for your input, what brand of oil do you use?
Moly may help the trans run cooler if it significantly reduces friction but a more viscous oil will always run hotter - I don't know how you'd measure the difference anyway (I mean I know how it could be done but not how someone would find the motivation to do it properly, under somewhat controlled conditions)
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Old 12-14-2010, 07:07 PM   #50
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8,000 miles on a rebuilt

My new to me, 99 GS1100R has 8000 miles on a rebuilt tranny (total 66,000 miles, by the best BMW Mechanic in San Dog) still shifts like crap compared to a Jap bike.
Excellent job, on the ballsy move on digging in to the tranny! You've inspired us.
I don'y understand the tech article's referenceing preloading the clutch after the shift. Does this mean to hold in the clutch for .4 to .8 seconds after the shift?
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Old 12-14-2010, 11:08 PM   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Poway View Post
My new to me, 99 GS1100R has 8000 miles on a rebuilt tranny (total 66,000 miles, by the best BMW Mechanic in San Dog) still shifts like crap compared to a Jap bike.
Quoted for truth. The gearbox is nowhere near as smooth or robust as the ones on jap bikes.

Quote:
I don'y understand the tech article's referenceing preloading the clutch after the shift. Does this mean to hold in the clutch for .4 to .8 seconds after the shift?
It means preloading the SHIFTER or GEAR LEVER prior to de-clutching. I.e. You put your foot on the shift lever, pull/push without de-clutching up to the point where you feel resistance (do NOT force it) and THEN pull the clutch lever and continue the shift. After you get to the end of the shift gear's travel, keep your foot there and engage the clutch. Release the gear lever only after the gear is fully engaged (i.e. some half a second after the clutch is released).
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Old 12-15-2010, 04:04 AM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Multisurface Rider View Post
Interesting, I am thinking of putting mine back together and trying different shifting methods and thicker oil. Moto Hank looked at it and could find anything but a little drag on the intermediate shaft, told me to put it back together and try it with Redline 90-140 oil, all I will lose by doing this is my time.

Where did you get the tranny, does this person have another? I would look in it myself. Want you money back?
Got it from eBay....I think I'll keep it. Try this link for eBay transmissions, several for sale.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/i.html?_nkw=bmw+r1100+transmission&_sacat=10063&_dmpt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&_odkw=&_osacat=10063&bkBtn=&_trksid=p4506.m270.l1313
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Old 12-15-2010, 05:32 PM   #53
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Measuring/Shimming Gearbox Shafts

I am in the process of rebuilding a used M94 Clean Bearing Transmission with M97 intermediate and output shafts(with factory backcut gears). I bought a used transmission to rebuild to swap into my 1996 R1100GS that has a 2nd gear skip...to reduce amount of time my bike is torn apart. Does anyone know how to measure the shimming distance, on the end of input/intermediate/output shafts, without buying the BMW part no. 23 4 600 gearbox measuring plate? It cost like $330.00, I think. Does anyone have one I can borrow? Thanks, Paul.
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Old 12-16-2010, 02:02 PM   #54
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You need to get the CD or a book. I now have a book and it is much better than CD. Have not put it back together this time. I put it back together the way it came apart the first time.

I just found out today that if you have backcut gears it will not skip, I might just bite the bullet and go for the full rebuild.



Quote:
Originally Posted by papanovember View Post
I am in the process of rebuilding a used M94 Clean Bearing Transmission with M97 intermediate and output shafts(with factory backcut gears). I bought a used transmission to rebuild to swap into my 1996 R1100GS that has a 2nd gear skip...to reduce amount of time my bike is torn apart. Does anyone know how to measure the shimming distance, on the end of input/intermediate/output shafts, without buying the BMW part no. 23 4 600 gearbox measuring plate? It cost like $330.00, I think. Does anyone have one I can borrow? Thanks, Paul.
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Old 12-16-2010, 05:59 PM   #55
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I have the BMW factory manual, too many manuals, actually. The only way to shim the shafts as described in the manual is to have the shim plate. I also have the Clymer and Haynes manuals that say take it to your dealer to shim(Haynes doesn't go into detail, just about reusing old shims)...Also, because I am replacing two shafts, I must re-shim. Can't put it back together with the shims from the old shafts. Also, they could have improperly shimmed your transmission from the factory...Oh well, I never regret buying more tools...Still cheaper than having someone else do it.
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papanovember screwed with this post 12-16-2010 at 06:06 PM
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Old 12-16-2010, 06:54 PM   #56
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I got a 95 1100GS at the beginning of October, and it has been my daily driver since. In second, it will do the skip sometimes, usually when accellerating hard. It does it occasionally with less load. I picked up an M97 trans, but haven't swapped it yet.

So the M97 gears are supposed to be undercut? I knew they had sealed bearings.

When my truck is back in service, I will swap the transmissions and look into the M94.
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Old 12-17-2010, 04:33 AM   #57
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Some of the later M94 transmissions went to sealed bearings. I have a sealed/clean bearing M94 that I am putting the M97 shafts into. And yes, the M97 gears were undercut from the factory. The M94 gears are straight cut. If you put the m94 intermediate shaft next to the M97 intermediate shaft, the difference is clear...I have the same problem in second with my 96 R1100GS.
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Old 12-17-2010, 05:54 AM   #58
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Machined or molded undercuts?

Quote:
Originally Posted by papanovember View Post
Some of the later M94 transmissions went to sealed bearings. I have a sealed/clean bearing M94 that I am putting the M97 shafts into. And yes, the M97 gears were undercut from the factory. The M94 gears are straight cut. If you put the m94 intermediate shaft next to the M97 intermediate shaft, the difference is clear...I have the same problem in second with my 96 R1100GS.

You should be able to tell by looking at the ingagement dogs on the M97 shafts, weither they have a machined undercut or come out of the mold undercut? Can you tell us what you see?

Maybe if I can get some M97 shafts, I will go that way.

Thanks
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Old 12-17-2010, 07:13 AM   #59
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tranny

This happened to my 01 gs. I was ready to change it. Took it to Mottorrad in St.louis and George found that the linkage to the splined shaft coming out of tranny was loose or impropely connected. I wonder how many people have changed a tranny for such a simple fix.
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Old 12-17-2010, 11:08 AM   #60
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With all the work I have put into this bike, I finally get the answers I am wanting to hear about these R1100's tranny problems, expensive but a bullet proof fix.

If I new at the beginning of this tread what I know now, I would have gotten a new rebuilt transmission before I even turned a wrench to take out the tranny.

Question: What does it take to keep these bikes in gear?

Answer:
These transmissions need all the dog gears to be undercut, period. This will not let it slip out of gear when under pressure. The M97 transmissions have this done from the factory, but have a input shaft problem. So a solution could be to install M97 intermediate shaft and output shaft into my M94 transmission, get a new rebuilt transmission, or send mine of to be rebuilt. Wait, I could find a used M97 and slap it in there and ride.


Three places to get this work done that I know of:

1. Anton http://www.largiader.com/index.html

2. Bruno Sax http://www.brunos.us/

3. Rubber Chicken http://rubberchickenracinggarage.com/index.html
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Ridin'nFishin screwed with this post 12-18-2010 at 11:29 AM
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