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Old 04-17-2013, 09:06 PM   #376
OlyRider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Just saw these over on the Aprilia Forum - stiffer fork springs for $100.

http://www.apriliaforum.com/forums/s...ight=RXV+forks



If he still has them, they have been for sale for 5 1/2 years, so you might offer him a little less than $100.00

;-)
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Old 04-17-2013, 09:08 PM   #377
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Haha. Realized that right after I posted it. But who knows? :P
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:11 AM   #378
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Another question.....

So, Looking at -W- writeup, he initially had the Shiver Factory forks(which I have) and then went to the RXV.

He stated that he had to cut down the upper part of the cartridge tube where the spring seats up to it...



Anyone know

1. Why?

2. How?

I think the main reason is that the 800 springs are longer, and in order to have them sit onto the cartridges at the same length as the Shiver, the tube needs to be cut.

How much is this .5-1" difference going to make if I don't cut them, or could I simple cut down the plastic preload spacer to make up for the room, rather than cut the metal tube. Or would installing the longer springs, give the bike a lot more pre-load since they are compressed that much more?

The springs are not much longer, and I imagine that the F800 springs are much stiffer than the Shiver springs so I would prefer to use these.

The second question is how does the upper part of tube come apart? It looks like it might screw off, but I do not know for certain, any ideas? I sent -W- a message, but he has not been logged on in a few months. Thanks!

DoWorkSon screwed with this post 04-18-2013 at 11:17 AM
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Old 04-18-2013, 12:30 PM   #379
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWorkSon View Post
How much is this .5-1" difference going to make if I don't cut them, or could I simple cut down the plastic preload spacer to make up for the room, rather than cut the metal tube. Or would installing the longer springs, give the bike a lot more pre-load since they are compressed that much more?

The second question is how does the upper part of tube come apart? It looks like it might screw off, but I do not know for certain, any ideas?
All of this is correct. You do NOT need to cut the damper down. The spring seat is higher, but the spring recesses deeper into the top cap too.
I installed oem f800 springs and preload spacers giving me a tad bit more preload and am happy with that.

Why are you separating the damper tube? Just to put the spacer in? Consider not running one - the only drawback to not running the spacer is more down travel. Which isn't a bad thing. Again I'm running this with no problems at all.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:03 PM   #380
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Originally Posted by epicxcrider View Post
All of this is correct. You do NOT need to cut the damper down. The spring seat is higher, but the spring recesses deeper into the top cap too.
I installed oem f800 springs and preload spacers giving me a tad bit more preload and am happy with that.

Why are you separating the damper tube? Just to put the spacer in? Consider not running one - the only drawback to not running the spacer is more down travel. Which isn't a bad thing. Again I'm running this with no problems at all.
Ok good to hear. I was wondering about seperating damper tube in case it in fact did need to be cut, which your saying it does not.

What is your weight? No issues with the soft oem F800 springs? I was thinking of getting stiffer ones since stock have been bad.
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Old 04-18-2013, 01:04 PM   #381
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200 LB. They are still a little soft, but with adjustable damping it makes up for it. I may buy stiffer ones at some point but not a concern ATM.
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Old 04-23-2013, 05:44 AM   #382
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
Just got this info in from another inmate if anyone needs the spring specs

Originally Posted by NCD
Add this to your knowledge bank. BMW springs 480mm, RXV 512mm.
Now that I've had both apart, I want to amend this. Both my Ohlins .55 and the stock RXV springs were 480mm plus a 30mm spacer. AF1 Racing says that STIFF RXV springs are 512mm. Not sure if that is all spring, or still 480+30.

Some notes for the collective as I do this:

1. Don't tell machine shops that it is a BMW fork. I think it spooks them. All my local machine shops were too big, too busy, or chicken shit. They are now on their way to Dale at JB Machine. Super nice guy, and already knows the dealio.

2. If you are shortening your travel back to stock, this spring from McMaster-Carr is nearly perfect:

9657K358Steel Compression Spring, Zinc-pltd Music Wire,1.50"l,.750"od,.135"wire


It's mega stiff, the ID and OD are correct, and it's 38mm long. Even the ends are ground flat so it rests nice in place. Just crimp one end down a little tighter so it will bind on the shaft a bit. Slide that end down first. Now inertia won't move it up and down and booger anything, and the small oil port stays unblocked as well.

3. This manual is way helpful:

http://www.americanbeta.com/sites/de...e%20shiver.pdf

Just wanted to pay back for all the info I stole from this thread!
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Old 04-23-2013, 09:34 AM   #383
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCD View Post
Now that I've had both apart, I want to amend this. Both my Ohlins .55 and the stock RXV springs were 480mm plus a 30mm spacer. AF1 Racing says that STIFF RXV springs are 512mm. Not sure if that is all spring, or still 480+30.

Some notes for the collective as I do this:

1. Don't tell machine shops that it is a BMW fork. I think it spooks them. All my local machine shops were too big, too busy, or chicken shit. They are now on their way to Dale at JB Machine. Super nice guy, and already knows the dealio.

2. If you are shortening your travel back to stock, this spring from McMaster-Carr is nearly perfect:

9657K358Steel Compression Spring, Zinc-pltd Music Wire,1.50"l,.750"od,.135"wire


It's mega stiff, the ID and OD are correct, and it's 38mm long. Even the ends are ground flat so it rests nice in place. Just crimp one end down a little tighter so it will bind on the shaft a bit. Slide that end down first. Now inertia won't move it up and down and booger anything, and the small oil port stays unblocked as well.

3. This manual is way helpful:

http://www.americanbeta.com/sites/de...e%20shiver.pdf

Just wanted to pay back for all the info I stole from this thread!
Any chance of pics of spacer(spring) installed?

Hopefully Dale gets the work done faster for you. I just got my forks back yesterday and they were sent about 3 weeks ago. I did let him keep the donor fork for him to cut up so he could get exact measurements for the internals, so might be quicker for you.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:05 AM   #384
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DoWorkSon View Post
Any chance of pics of spacer(spring) installed?

Hopefully Dale gets the work done faster for you. I just got my forks back yesterday and they were sent about 3 weeks ago. I did let him keep the donor fork for him to cut up so he could get exact measurements for the internals, so might be quicker for you.
For the record his turn around for me has always been less than a week. His shop is big and does 1000 part orders. He is nice enough to help out and do this kind of work so cheap. Other shops want $250 if they will even touch BMW "magic" parts.
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Old 04-23-2013, 10:11 AM   #385
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
For the record his turn around for me has always been less than a week. His shop is big and does 1000 part orders. He is nice enough to help out and do this kind of work so cheap. Other shops want $250 if they will even touch BMW "magic" parts.
Yes, most shops won't touch a small job like this if they're busy and you're lucky to find one that will. Heck I can't even get shops to meet a month lead time on machined parts at work.
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:32 AM   #386
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Originally Posted by Gangplank View Post
For the record his turn around for me has always been less than a week. His shop is big and does 1000 part orders. He is nice enough to help out and do this kind of work so cheap. Other shops want $250 if they will even touch BMW "magic" parts.
One local quoted me 3 hours at $125 per. I put some extra money in the shipment to sweeten the deal a little bit
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Old 04-23-2013, 11:37 AM   #387
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Originally Posted by DoWorkSon View Post
Any chance of pics of spacer(spring) installed?
I already reassembled my cartrigdes. But it looks like -W-'s spacer on page one, but just a big spring instead.

Are you still trying to understand where it goes? I could lay my extra spring next to the finished cartridge to illustrate if thats the issue.
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Old 04-24-2013, 06:19 AM   #388
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I know this question popped up a few times in this thread. Here is where you reduce the travel (pics show finished cartridges.)



See the little silver spring sitting on top of the finished cartridge? Thats where it goes, but INSIDE the cartridge. You have to pull everything off of the shaft so that the whole thing can back out. Install the spring/spacer on the shaft, and put it back together.

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Old 04-24-2013, 01:07 PM   #389
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCD View Post
I know this question popped up a few times in this thread. Here is where you reduce the travel (pics show finished cartridges.)



See the little silver spring sitting on top of the finished cartridge? Thats where it goes, but INSIDE the cartridge. You have to pull everything off of the shaft so that the whole thing can back out. Install the spring/spacer on the shaft, and put it back together.

Thank you sir!
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Old 04-24-2013, 01:09 PM   #390
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Nice find on the spring
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