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Old 07-27-2010, 10:25 PM   #1
tksmith OP
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21 Front End Conversion On 1100GS

Hi Guys

Don't post over here often, pretty much keep to the Australian Regional forum. However I have been wrestling with this for a while and finally bit the bullet and did it. After a lot of teeth gnashing it has turned out (so far) to be a no brainer!!

Well, I got sick of watching those KTM 9x0 pilots make the sand look easy so I bit the bullet and set about researching and subsequently getting the Old Girls front hoop upped to 21 inches. The process has been a long time in the planning stages and recently the "actual" doing has happened rather quickly. Firstly a big thanks to these patient people who have provided me with advice along the way:




  • Rob Turton from Tyres4Bikes in Brisvegas

  • Woody from Woddy's Wheel Works in the US

  • Mitch from Warners Wheels Kawana

  • Bruce from Ash's Wheel Works in Brisveags also


Once I found that I could get a front hub second hand from the US for a measly US$50.00 I thought maybe it won't coast me a AU$1000-AU$1500 to do it! I set about badgering all those guys above for info on what the rim and lacing would cost and found that I could be able to have the whole thing done and dusted for AU$800 including the tyre!!


Following are the things I had to decide on the get the spec right:



  • Rim choice.

    • The 1100GS has a 40 spoke wheel so that was a limiting factor.

    • 21" rims could be had in 1.85 or 2.15 widths. Rob Turton came to the rescue here and advised the 2.15 is the go for tyre choice as fitted to the 9x0 KTM ADV's

    • Excel make a Takasago rim in a 21" 40 spoke with a 2.15 width. Problem sorted.



  • Lace pattern and spokes.

    • The BMW hub is not conventional and has the nipples in the hub not the rim. Basically exactly opposite to the norm.

    • Mitch at Warner's Wheels did a fine job of making the custom spokes and nipples to fit. Basically nipples in both ends.

    • The spokes had to clear the brake calliper. Have to suck it and see.




Well I would just have to take a leap of faith and get it laced up to see if the calliper thing was going to be an issue. Woody said that 1 in 50 he does will need some of the brake calliper ground back to clear the spokes, so I thought well, so be it.


Got the wheel back from Warner's yesterday



Zip tied it to the back and headed for home, hoping that the brake calliper thing was just a big deal about nothing!!


I got home and started pulling the front out of the old girl, wondering what I would do if the spokes were too close to the calliper to grind enough away!! Well I need not have lost any sleep as it went in and clearance was fine Sealed




Now all that remains is to fit a tire and see if I need to space up the Telelever Brace to accommodate the knobby or not. I was able to lay a round Castrol brake fluid bottle in the rim which would be about the same diameter as the tyre and it went through with the lower guard on!! That's good new as there is nearly 10mm extra clearance to the brace after the guard is removed. Might even fit the EO9 in there without spacer, just remove the lower guard. Intend to take it off anyway as they are good for nothing but clogging up with mud and clay out on the trail anyway.


So here it is (minus the EO9)






Watch This Space

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Old 07-28-2010, 03:56 AM   #2
Whale Rider
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21 "

tksmith 21" front wheel is a good option I retro fitted a R100GS wheel into the 1100 sets them up beatifully for off road in my opinion it transforms the bike it should be a factory option still handles fine on the tarmac.
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Old 07-28-2010, 04:07 AM   #3
tksmith OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whale Rider
tksmith 21" front wheel is a good option I retro fitted a R100GS wheel into the 1100 sets them up beatifully for off road in my opinion it transforms the bike it should be a factory option still handles fine on the tarmac.


Any Pics?
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Old 07-28-2010, 01:40 PM   #4
Jackazz
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Now all that remains is to fit a tire and see if I need to space up the Telelever Brace to accommodate the knobby or not.



On my 21" I had to use spacers to clear my knobby but it's worked great for well over a year. You'll love the 21".
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Old 07-28-2010, 03:43 PM   #5
charliemik
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You guys are just adding fuel to the fire. I keep thinking of getting a 21 laced up for my 1100 but the price sure keeps me at bay. If I do decide to pull the trigger, I'll probably just get a used hub and fire it off to Woody's and let him deal with it.

Post some ride impressions when you get it all set up.
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Old 07-28-2010, 05:43 PM   #6
tksmith OP
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Popping in to Rob Turtons on Friday hopefuly to get an E09

I'll give it a run on the weekend and have some news.
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Old 07-28-2010, 09:16 PM   #7
hasenwerk
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Anyone playing with the idea if installing a 18" rear wheel? I have an extra set of rims for my 11GS and am thinking of pulling the trigger on a project like this too!
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Old 07-28-2010, 10:16 PM   #8
tksmith OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hasenwerk
Anyone playing with the idea if installing a 18" rear wheel? I have an extra set of rims for my 11GS and am thinking of pulling the trigger on a project like this too!
Have heard that the 18" rear has two drawbacks.

1/ Makes 1st gear too tall (Probably OK on 1150 GSA as 1st is a stump puller anyway )

2/ Makes the centre stand ineffective. Probably just a little welding to fix that though.

Apparently there is room in the swing arm for the tire but just.
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Old 07-29-2010, 11:06 PM   #9
hasenwerk
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tksmith
Have heard that the 18" rear has two drawbacks.

1/ Makes 1st gear too tall (Probably OK on 1150 GSA as 1st is a stump puller anyway )

2/ Makes the centre stand ineffective. Probably just a little welding to fix that though.

Apparently there is room in the swing arm for the tire but just.
Isn't 1st on the 1100 GS the same as 1st on the 1150 GSA?

My center stand is a PITA to get down without some lifting of the bike in some way... the 18" should only make the rear of the bike 12mm taller so not that big of a deal... just seems that the 18/21 combo has a LOT more choice than even the 17/21 combo...
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Old 07-30-2010, 12:55 AM   #10
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Got my E09 on the rim this arvo !!

Throw it on tonight when I get home and see if I need to space the telelever. Pics to follow.
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Old 07-31-2010, 09:09 PM   #11
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Bummer.....Spacers Needed

more info here
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Old 08-01-2010, 10:09 AM   #12
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I'd like to see your plate solution. For the past year I've been running 4 spacers but I like the idea of some brake line protection.
Tim
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Old 08-02-2010, 02:57 AM   #13
Whale Rider
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Wicked

Quote:
Originally Posted by tksmith


Any Pics?
Try these

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4140/...bfd96871_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4136/...f1c54981_b.jpg

http://farm5.static.flickr.com/4142/...e4c55947_b.jpg

Any questions just ask
I made spacer from 12mm Aluminium Plate the same shape as the fork leg.
whale rider

Whale Rider screwed with this post 08-02-2010 at 03:08 AM
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Old 08-02-2010, 04:35 AM   #14
tksmith OP
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Nice one Whale Rider

Bringing the lines out and down beside the wheel. Good lateral thinking. Removes the vulnerability all together. Are the lower brake lines stock? Looks like you had them remade with different bends near the top banjo's.

Gear still turning here. 12mm gives you 12mm clearance from the line splitter mount to the tyre, yes?
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:22 AM   #15
Whale Rider
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tksmith
Nice one Whale Rider

Bringing the lines out and down beside the wheel. Good lateral thinking. Removes the vulnerability all together. Are the lower brake lines stock? Looks like you had them remade with different bends near the top banjo's.

Gear still turning here. 12mm gives you 12mm clearance from the line splitter mount to the tyre, yes?
Hello TK the brake pipes are stock only changed end for end ie: the top banjo end connected to the calliper. cant remember if I swapped them side for side but they fit in nicely like that. I cut the lug that holds the top banjo fitting in place flush with the fork bridge and then ground a new flat and drilled and tapped a new hole to hold the brass T to the fork bridge. The pipes come out the side in front of the fork tubes and not underneath out the back as is standard I then cut the front guard in half and cut the piece out that went under the fork bridge as it no longer fits when the spacers are in. Then I made a new piece out of panel steel that goes in there to protect the brake pipes and remounted the front and rear parts of the guard job done. Plenty of clearnace above the tire with the 12mm spacers. I have travelled over 5000 kms with it now on as many metal roads as I can find handles great. Cheers whale rider
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