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Old 08-03-2010, 02:08 AM   #16
Plaka
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Joined: Jun 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
The bagster site only says "R75"

Link

http://www.motorcycleheaven.co.uk/in...oducts_id=4704

Can you recommend a sidestand?


I checked that part number. Bagster ain't much help. I'd say make sure they have an excellent return policy if you don't like the fit and find out. Otherwise, fuck 'em. An R75/5 came with two tanks as did the /6. If they can't do better than that saying what they fit....BTW, you have the "big" tank. 6 Liter or something.

Fit fuel filters---the little inline jobbers.

I doubt anyone is making an aftermarket sidestand anymore. I'll sell you an old Luftmeister for waaaay too much (collectors item) and you get to fix it. I got it new 25+ years ago, it's very worn and needs a bushing made for it. I already got a new pivot screw. I think it's the best ever made. I currently use a Brown. It works fine.

The problem is that the factory stand is awkward to deploy and it's spring loaded. If the wind rocks your bike and takes weight off the sidestand, it will fold up, dumping the bike. An early attempt at nannyism and an utter failure on all fronts.


See what you can find. ANYTHING is better than the original.

The center stand should be quite good. Buy a spare spring and carry it on tour. Keep an eye on the spots that wear on the ground and get them filled with some beads of stainless weld metal before it wears through. Just an old bike issue and easy to fix. Usually you fit new pivot bushings and bolts at the same time. Cheap.


Buy an exhaust nut wrench and pushrod seal drift (special tools) and some go/no-go feeler gauges for the valves. If it has the factory toolkit, you're golden and adding those 3 items will take you a long way.

If it has points ignition, make yourself a static timing light. Never, ever remove the front cover with out first disconnecting the battery ground strap. It can be an expensive mistake.
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:15 AM   #17
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Exhaust nut wrench is on my wishlist, adding the seal drift too.

I am not going to do that much work on the bike as of now, it has had a very nice going over. I did however spot a little blueing on the LH side and none on the RH side not alot, but will adjust the valves sometime in the near future.

I will see what I can figure out regarding a sidestand, buying from the US is too expensive :)
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:23 AM   #18
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Looks like a good find there Lasse. Congrats. Try Motobins for a Surefoot sidestand. They're excellent, but I think you need to send them your left footrest.
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Old 08-03-2010, 07:04 AM   #19
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The joys :)

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Old 08-03-2010, 12:10 PM   #20
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Exhaust nut wrench is on my wishlist, adding the seal drift too.

I am not going to do that much work on the bike as of now, it has had a very nice going over. I did however spot a little blueing on the LH side and none on the RH side not alot, but will adjust the valves sometime in the near future.

I will see what I can figure out regarding a sidestand, buying from the US is too expensive :)
Check out this one from hendersen:

http://www.hendersenprecision.com/in..._products.html

(scroll down). price in USD is very reasonable and it fits the newer style nuts. it very light so shipping could be reasonable too. Maybeffind an inmate to buy it and ship it to you. You don't have a lug wrench but you could come up with a piece of rod locally. just a thot.


Looks like a later /7 front engine cover. Methinks you got a /7 block if that fits. (but I could very easily be wrong on that) Did you check the serial numbers on the motor against on the RealOEM site (and others) to see what year the block is? Does it seem to go a whole lot faster than you would think a 600 should? Also pop the rubber bung and observe the flywheel. Does it have the old style flywheel or the new style "clutch carrier"?

You need a torque wrench to set the valves, You always torque the heads first. A simple beam type works great.

The /7 rocker covers you have an up and a down, unlike the older ones. They are marked. Direct exchange with the older ones, different look and stronger. Getting the two little 10mm nuts off is one of the special joys of airhead ownership. One of them is always a pain. You may have to pull the crash bar on one side. Helps to have a magnet handy to catch the washer. Beware overtightening the chrome center nut. Easy to strip it's stud out of the head. That nut doesn't do anything, I leave mine off. Only tighten enough so it doesn't fall off---maybe a bit of blue locktight.
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:20 PM   #21
LasseNC OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
Check out this one from hendersen:

http://www.hendersenprecision.com/in..._products.html

(scroll down). price in USD is very reasonable and it fits the newer style nuts. it very light so shipping could be reasonable too. Maybeffind an inmate to buy it and ship it to you. You don't have a lug wrench but you could come up with a piece of rod locally. just a thot.


Looks like a later /7 front engine cover. Methinks you got a /7 block if that fits. (but I could very easily be wrong on that) Did you check the serial numbers on the motor against on the RealOEM site (and others) to see what year the block is? Does it seem to go a whole lot faster than you would think a 600 should? Also pop the rubber bung and observe the flywheel. Does it have the old style flywheel or the new style "clutch carrier"?

You need a torque wrench to set the valves, You always torque the heads first. A simple beam type works great.

The /7 rocker covers you have an up and a down, unlike the older ones. They are marked. Direct exchange with the older ones, different look and stronger. Getting the two little 10mm nuts off is one of the special joys of airhead ownership. One of them is always a pain. You may have to pull the crash bar on one side. Helps to have a magnet handy to catch the washer. Beware overtightening the chrome center nut. Easy to strip it's stud out of the head. That nut doesn't do anything, I leave mine off. Only tighten enough so it doesn't fall off---maybe a bit of blue locktight.
Good reply, TA!

How do I determine which one I have? Anything obvious?

If its "fast"? Well, 120km/h at 4500 RPM in topgear, pulls to 130km/h with ease, but I think that's it. All speeds indicated ofcourse.

Where is the serial located?
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:22 PM   #22
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I like that blue better than the Monza, IMO ;)
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Old 08-03-2010, 12:47 PM   #23
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Good reply, TA!

How do I determine which one I have? Anything obvious?

If its "fast"? Well, 120km/h at 4500 RPM in topgear, pulls to 130km/h with ease, but I think that's it. All speeds indicated of course.

Where is the serial located?
Hmmm...should top out around 190Km/h but it might take a tailwind and a bit of a hill. That's all I ever got my 75/5 up to. look on the speedometer. There will be a number printed on the dial in the bottom center. What is that? Then look on the rear drive just in front of the fill plug. There is a number stamped there. What is that one? The speedo and rear drive may be mismatched which will throw your indicated speed waaaay off.

Look on the back of the instrument cluster. id there a drivee cable going to the tach? (there is always one going to the speedo. The electronic tach won't have one. Often they say "eleectronic" on the dial. You can compute the speed from the tach and the tire diameter and see if it matches your speedo. Typically the BMW speedo's are pretty optimistic though. Probably why I haven't been arrested yet.

Look for engine number stamped above the diptick on left side or under the left cylinder just above the frame tube sort of towards the front of the motor. see Duanes site here:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/VIN/index.htm

But he doesn't cover the /7

Also fliescher:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/IDnumbrs.htm

Disconneect the battery ground and remove the front cover and take a picture of the insides. That will say a lot.
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Old 08-03-2010, 01:49 PM   #24
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Plaka....! Check out the last photo...

There are TWO wires heading south at the rear of the main frame. If this bike is the same as any other /6, one of those is the ground wire and ones the speedo drive cable. When I compare the front cover to the one in my garage, they're exactly the same. Stock /6 and note that the timing chest cover retains the tach drive boot, with a cable going into it.

You're 100% right about the valve cover center nuts though....! They should end up no tighter than it takes to make em not to fall off. Most of us learn that lesson the hard way.

Lastly: If this bike were mine (And it's not!) I wouldn't worry much about the side stand unless it's busted. I've used stock stands on /6s for a couple of decades without problems, as have a million other guys but just like with the Brown stand, ya gotta use your noggin.

Like a lot of things on these old crocks, the bushing needs to be lubricated from time to time but if a bike is properly and carefully parked a gust of wind isn't going to throw a 500+ pound bike to the ground (Never did to mine anyway.) and the stocker stores itself nicely out of sight under the jug. I'll agree that the brown is stronger and all that but it's the first thing to touch down in a corner (Drats!) and if you ride away with it deployed? You might well be taking a BMW powered trip to the moon!
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:10 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
Hmmm...should top out around 190Km/h but it might take a tailwind and a bit of a hill. That's all I ever got my 75/5 up to. look on the speedometer. There will be a number printed on the dial in the bottom center. What is that? Then look on the rear drive just in front of the fill plug. There is a number stamped there. What is that one? The speedo and rear drive may be mismatched which will throw your indicated speed waaaay off.

Look on the back of the instrument cluster. id there a drivee cable going to the tach? (there is always one going to the speedo. The electronic tach won't have one. Often they say "eleectronic" on the dial. You can compute the speed from the tach and the tire diameter and see if it matches your speedo. Typically the BMW speedo's are pretty optimistic though. Probably why I haven't been arrested yet.

Look for engine number stamped above the diptick on left side or under the left cylinder just above the frame tube sort of towards the front of the motor. see Duanes site here:

http://w6rec.com/duane/bmw/VIN/index.htm

But he doesn't cover the /7

Also fliescher:

http://bmwmotorcycletech.info/IDnumbrs.htm

Disconneect the battery ground and remove the front cover and take a picture of the insides. That will say a lot.
The indicated speeds are dead on according to my GPS and a the tailing car :)
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:45 PM   #26
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It's an odd mix of parts/years. I see R60/5 carbs (ticklers, no chokes). Wish we knew the story behind this bike...
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Old 08-03-2010, 02:50 PM   #27
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Should I be getting /6 carbs or does it even matter?
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:25 PM   #28
TimTowtdi
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If it runs good, just ride it. Who cares what years the parts are from. Ride it. Airheads are probably the most fun bike to ride, and I like mine naked, just like yours. They handle so well without a fairing.

As for the speed thing, look on the final drive, there should be a number stamped on the top near where it bolts to the swing arm housing. It should be something like 37/11 or other ratio. What is that? That is your final drive ratio.

Have fun.

TT
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Old 08-03-2010, 03:43 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimTowtdi
If it runs good, just ride it. Who cares what years the parts are from. Ride it. Airheads are probably the most fun bike to ride, and I like mine naked, just like yours. They handle so well without a fairing.

As for the speed thing, look on the final drive, there should be a number stamped on the top near where it bolts to the swing arm housing. It should be something like 37/11 or other ratio. What is that? That is your final drive ratio.

Have fun.

TT
yes franken bike, but who cares
yes 37/11 is faster, want to drop your rpms at crusing speed, swithc to a 32/10
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Old 08-03-2010, 04:18 PM   #30
Hawk Medicine
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It's an R60/6, capable of 103 MPH dead stock.

The specs and a photo are here: http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/bmwmodels.htm

The rear end and the carbs are stock, as are all of the other parts other than the updated trans, some meaningless valve covers and maybe the front end but even there, it may have been built to an unfamiliar European spec. I'd consider the disk brake to be an upgrade anyway.

I'm just happy the guy found his Beemer.
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