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Old 08-03-2010, 04:37 PM   #31
TimTowtdi
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok
It's an R60/6, capable of 103 MPH dead stock.

The specs and a photo are here: http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/bmwmodels.htm

The rear end and the carbs are stock, as are all of the other parts other than the updated trans, some meaningless valve covers and maybe the front end but even there, it may have been built to an unfamiliar European spec. I'd consider the disk brake to be an upgrade anyway.

I'm just happy the guy found his Beemer.

Agreed. It appears to be mostly stock, just a couple obvious changes, and like you say, they can all be considered upgrades (except maybe the front fender -- I always liked the earlier ones).

It looks like a very nice bike.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:40 PM   #32
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok
Plaka....! Check out the last photo...

There are TWO wires heading south at the rear of the main frame. If this bike is the same as any other /6, one of those is the ground wire and ones the speedo drive cable. When I compare the front cover to the one in my garage, they're exactly the same. Stock /6 and note that the timing chest cover retains the tach drive boot, with a cable going into it.
Yup, missed that grommet on the second pic. They all have mechanical speedos.

You're 100% right about the valve cover center nuts though....! They should end up no tighter than it takes to make em not to fall off. Most of us learn that lesson the hard way.

Quote:
Lastly: If this bike were mine (And it's not!) I wouldn't worry much about the side stand unless it's busted. I've used stock stands on /6s for a couple of decades without problems, as have a million other guys but just like with the Brown stand, ya gotta use your noggin.
Well naturally only the careful and prudent who use their heads don't have trouble with the sidestand---especially if one wishes to include oneself in that group. Everyone else went out and replaced the pieces of crap. My first encounter with the stock stand was on my second bike, a 75/5. My first bike was a '74 Suzuki with a simple and effective sidestand. The Beemer one blew me away. it didn't seem that anyone intended it to be used from the saddle---but it was almost as bad standing next to the bike. I asked a friend about it---an extremely experienced rider and factory mechanic. he said they sucked, "everybody" hated them and told me about the problem with them folding up unexpectedly. The bike might weigh 500lbs but the force needed to rock one was pretty small, especially if it wasn't leaned over pretty well. Knowing that you don't always get what you want in parking and realizing the ergonomics were utter bullshjit, I went down to the dealer and lucked out by getting the last lufty stand in stock. They were selling out as fast as they could get them in. I think (don't really know) that the ideaa wwith the stock sstand was you flicked it down to touch the ground and then caught it with the lean of the bike and rolled the bike back to engagee it. Then you rocked the bike to the side to allow it to retract. Didn't work for me. But I'm frequently inept.



Quote:
Like a lot of things on these old crocks, the bushing needs to be lubricated from time to time
My /7 has a zerk fitting on the side stand boss. I assume it's stock. I notice the new crocks need stuff lubricated from time to time too. They just can't get it right. looks like the grease fitting and lube setup vanished from the '7 brake pedal tho'. I'm going to have to have a /5 (/6??) style one made up.



Quote:
but if a bike is properly and carefully parked a gust of wind isn't going to throw a 500+ pound bike to the ground (Never did to mine anyway.) and the stocker stores itself nicely out of sight under the jug. I'll agree that the brown is stronger and all that but it's the first thing to touch down in a corner (Drats!)
My pegs will hit first.

Quote:
and if you ride away with it deployed? You might well be taking a BMW powered trip to the moon!
All that effort to play nanny and keep you from doing something you need to just not do anyway---and they manage something that is completely piss poor at doing hat it's supposed to do in the first place!. But I do it about twice a year---that is, I catch it on the double check riding away.
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Old 08-03-2010, 06:41 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TimTowtdi
Agreed. It appears to be mostly stock, just a couple obvious changes, and like you say, they can all be considered upgrades (except maybe the front fender -- I always liked the earlier ones).

It looks like a very nice bike.
How do you know the rear end is stock without knowing the ratio? In fact, other than the top cover, how do you know it's a 600? My badged 75/5 looked like any other---dual plugging, big tank and Konis but otherwise plain jane. But 900 jugs and heads and the carbs were jetted for 900. Stock /5 rear end (yes, it would do wheelies). 900 single disk front end but otherwise /5 bodywork---including the chrome side panels, painted black. Bars were narrowed (and euro high) if you knew what to look for. Some small farkles---'2 gaurd on the headlight and aux. gauges.. But it started as a /5 750 SWB that was converted to long, then fitted with a /6 tank and seat with the /5 badges retained . Then built to 900. If you thought it was a 750 the jetting would make you wonder.

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Old 08-03-2010, 07:36 PM   #34
TimTowtdi
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I said it appears to be a mostly stock, and from the pictures given, it indeed appears to be mostly stock. The only non-stock items visible in the pictures have been duly noted several times already. All I am going by is appearances.

Do you see anything in the pictures that makes you think it is not a 600 or that the final drive is not a standard 37/11? None of the visible mods done to it indicate such a change to me.

TT
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Old 08-03-2010, 08:39 PM   #35
Lornce
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
The indicated speeds are dead on according to my GPS and a the tailing car :)


That means you've got a mismatched set of gears and speedo. But don't worry. That's the only way to get an accurate speedo on an airhead. Using a speedo one or two ratios lower than what you're actually running is the key to accuratly monitor your progress.

Lot's of great information being offered here. Listen to that Plaka lad, though his distaste for sidestands seems a bit obsessive.

Don't sweat the carbs. imho, they're a bonus. Nice and simple and they work.

I love a nice R60. Post pics of it parked all over Iceland! (you are in Iceland, right?)

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Old 08-03-2010, 11:15 PM   #36
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Old 08-04-2010, 06:55 AM   #37
Bill Harris
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
In fact, other than the top cover, how do you know it's a 600?
The Bing 53's. They'll fit only the intake stubs on 600cc heads. Don't see anyone tricking up 750 or 900cc heads to take the old carbs. Since the frame and engine numbers match, I'd guess that the bike belonged to someone who loved it and did a lot of personalized custom work on it.
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Old 08-04-2010, 02:26 PM   #38
Hawk Medicine
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
My pegs will hit first.
The last time my pegs hit the ground, was when I tossed them across the garage.

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Old 08-11-2010, 11:51 PM   #39
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I am going to steal crazydrummerdudes-threadbuilding :)

I think I will let this thread serve as my "motor log book" for my R60/6.

I am having a noisy starter, lets out a screech sometimes, so yesterday I pulled the starter and cleaned the gears, even though they where pretty clean. Tried pushed the starterbutton with the gear facing upwards, to see where the noise would come from. Though all I got was sparks all over. Starters are isolated Lasse, do'h!

Arh well, as I had it all off I mounted the starter as should be and pushed the button again, tried several times, but it sounded pretty solid then, so I just buttoned it all up again. That airfilterhousing is a PITA to get back together by the way.

Currently I am looking at oils, a mate of my can get some 20/50 Texaco oil that he runs himself at ~100$ per 20 ltr. which is a pretty good price if you ask me.

For gearbox oil I am probably just going to run some SAE90. But the only manual I am using have some pretty squashed out numbers, so I can't get a clear reading of the quantities.

Gearbox: 800ml
Rearwheel drive housing: 150ml (I guess this is the aluminium part with the two angled gears meshing together?)
Final drive: 250ml (My shaft runs "wet"?)

I don't really know the difference between "final drive" and "rearwheel drive housing" then.

Any hints and tips would be appreciated :)
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Old 08-12-2010, 12:03 AM   #40
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"final drive" is the aluminum casting at the rear housing the ring and pinion gears. It has the rear axle running through it.

Sounds like your source is calling the swingarm the "rear wheel drive housing". The driveshaft runs through the right side and 150ml of oil lubricates the splined collar that mates the shaft to the splined pinion gear shaft.

Does that make sense?

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Old 08-12-2010, 01:20 AM   #41
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I think it does, though I will see if I can find some exploded views too.

My source: http://www.pbase.com/dwerbil/image/74356165
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Old 08-12-2010, 09:15 AM   #42
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Called up the PO, he says it's currently running Duckhams 20/50 oil, which is mineral.

I live in Denmark, which doesn't see really warm temps, so should I just continue running mineral or change to semi?

Should I care about GL3, 4 and 5?

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Old 08-12-2010, 07:38 PM   #43
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
...That airfilterhousing is a PITA to get back together by the way.
Why is that?
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Old 08-12-2010, 11:58 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
Why is that?
Making the filter sit when lining up the two halves and then locating the thread with the long bolt.

They were a tight fit because of the fuel lines that seemingly is a bit oversized, so it didn't just "slide together.
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Old 08-13-2010, 12:30 AM   #45
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Making the filter sit when lining up the two halves and then locating the thread with the long bolt.

They were a tight fit because of the fuel lines that seemingly is a bit oversized, so it didn't just "slide together.
Right side goes on first. Do not fit the carb plastic tube. Line it up all nice with the top cover (the one over the starter). A couple of times doing it with your bike will tell you exactly where it goes. Tighten the bolt on the base spring clip and the annoying little 10mm nut behind the windage tube.

Then the filter. Fit it over the pins in the right cover.

Then the left side cover. if you are using 1/4" fuel line (rather than the official 7mm) you may want some lube. I use RuGlide because I have a gallon from a tire mounting project. Soapy water is fine or any of the "personal lubricants" (water based). They are extremely slippery and rubber safe, and you only have to buy a tube rather than a gallon. The desensitizing ones are more expensive. lube the fuel line and the lips of the air filter on the left side. Then install the left cover. Wiggle to get the pins seated in the filter.

Finally install the long bolt from the left. Stick two fingers in the right side air tube spigot and guide the tip of the bolt into it's threads. First time you do it you realize it's easy. (I struggled with this until someone tipped me off. Now I always pull that right air tube if the left air cleaner cover comes off)

Then you are ready for the plastic air tubes and carbs. Beware bending over the lips of the air tubes at the air cleaner cover. Ensure the carb-to-head clamps (on the rubber) are plenty slack so you can pivot the carbs, the plastic air tubes and the carb-to-head rubbers all at once.

Carbs tip to the inside 15 degrees or so---they do not sit strait up and down.

Plaka screwed with this post 08-13-2010 at 12:57 AM
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