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Old 08-30-2010, 02:33 PM   #76
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Is coppergrease sufficient for the exhaustnuts? I saw "ZOA"s ridereport, she had bought some kind of flanges that bolt together. Seemed like a cool solution, albeit not vintage.
Use high temp anti-seize. Often these are graphite based. I have a 9 oz. container from Fel-Pro. Good to 2400F. Comes with a nice applicator brush in the lid. Cost maybe 6USD

I use a quality HP moly grease on the wheel bearings, whatever on the rest, often the moly grease that's in the gun, sometimes Mobil 1 Synthetic 'cause I happen to have a tub and it works well in the cold and it's is very water resistant---like for throttle cams and under heated grips.

Cleaning stuff well before ffresh lube or anti-sieze is as important as the lube. Use a brass hand brush on the made and female exhaust nut threads. Clean the inside of the head exhaust spigot really well, get the carbon off, and then apply a light film of silicone grease----and clean the outside of the header tube where it goes in . Then the exhaust always goes together nicely.
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Old 08-30-2010, 02:40 PM   #77
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Will do sir!

Today I localized some odd "clunks" from the forwheel, the wheel had quite alot of sideplay, so new bearings are in order! Reading up on the bearing tech articles on Duanes site as of now :)
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Old 08-30-2010, 03:30 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Will do sir!

Today I localized some odd "clunks" from the forwheel, the wheel had quite alot of sideplay, so new bearings are in order! Reading up on the bearing tech articles on Duanes site as of now :)
Are the bearings shot or just maladjusted?

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Old 08-30-2010, 11:27 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lornce
Are the bearings shot or just maladjusted?

I am getting a "CLUNK" and other sounds sometimes, when the wheel is turning, quite loud.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:47 AM   #80
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
I am getting a "CLUNK" and other sounds sometimes, when the wheel is turning, quite loud.
Someone might have left a wrench or something inside the tire when it was mounted. These can make "other sounds". One time a small cat toy was found in a tire. Apparently kitty had batted it in there when the tire was partially mounted on the floor. The guy swore his wheel played "twinkle twinkle little star" at low speed. The forum thread got pretty wild before it was sorted out.
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:50 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
Someone might have left a wrench or something inside the tire when it was mounted. These can make "other sounds". One time a small cat toy was found in a tire. Apparently kitty had batted it in there when the tire was partially mounted on the floor. The guy swore his wheel played "twinkle twinkle little star" at low speed. The forum thread got pretty wild before it was sorted out.
Jesus :) Well, ordering bearings anyway, at the price they are it would be ludacris not to get them while ordering other parts anyway :)
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Old 08-31-2010, 12:58 AM   #82
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Jesus :) Well, ordering bearings anyway, at the price they are it would be ludacris not to get them while ordering other parts anyway :)
The same bearing is used a number of places. So an extra new one is never a bad thing.

Save the old races. Good to press the new in with and certain other little projects.

They are standard bearings made by all the big players, SKF, FAG, etc. Get the numbers off them and you can pick them up at any bearing house.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:05 AM   #83
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
The same bearing is used a number of places. So an extra new one is never a bad thing.

Save the old races. Good to press the new in with and certain other little projects.

They are standard bearings made by all the big players, SKF, FAG, etc. Get the numbers off them and you can pick them up at any bearing house.
Wouldn't it be simpler to do a ballbearing conversion then? Seems to take the whole "preload" thing out of the equation. Yeah the bearing might not last 5 mill. miles, but I am never reaching that on one set of bearings anyway :)

Edit:

Forget it, if it aint broken don't fix it, just my mind wandering. Sticking with the original setup ofcourse :)
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:16 AM   #84
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Lassen,

Do have a shop manual for your bike?

If you don't have one, it would pay dividends for you to acquire one and if you have one, you should take time to read through it.

Just a suggestion....
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:18 AM   #85
Plaka
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Wouldn't it be simpler to do a ballbearing conversion then? Seems to take the whole "preload" thing out of the equation. Yeah the bearing might not last 5 mill. miles, but I am never reaching that on one set of bearings anyway :)

Edit:

Forget it, if it aint broken don't fix it, just my mind wandering. Sticking with the original setup ofcourse :)
There are many different kinds of ball bearings. Mostly it has to do with the thrust axis through the balls. You want to select one appropriate for the application, in the correct grade, and work out the correct preload.

There is a reason angular rollers are used. look at your car and you will see them again.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:19 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mymindsok
Lassen,

Do have a shop manual for your bike?

If you don't have one, it would pay dividends for you to acquire one and if you have one, you should take time to read through it.

Just a suggestion....
I do. I just have alot of questions that I don't think is answered in the manual.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:20 AM   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
There are many different kinds of ball bearings. Mostly it has to do with the thrust axis through the balls. You want to select one appropriate for the application, in the correct grade, and work out the correct preload.

There is a reason angular rollers are used. look at your car and you will see them again.
Yeah I know, it's just that my old AJS also used conical roller bearings, and a popular conversion there is to ballbearings, hence my thought of simplicity.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:28 AM   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
I do. I just have alot of questions that I don't think is answered in the manual.
If it is not answered in the manual, then you should not be asking it! Do not even THINK it. Verboten! They diddn't writee the book for you to go getting all creativee with shit.


BTW, you really also want the real factory shop manual, not just a Clymer or Haynes.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:29 AM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaka
If it is not answered in the manual, then you should not be asking it! Do not even THINK it. Verboten! They diddn't writee the book for you to go getting all creativee with shit.


BTW, you really also want the real factory shop manual, not just a Clymer or Haynes.
Thats the one I have.
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Old 08-31-2010, 01:38 AM   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LasseNC
Thats the one I have.
Excellent. now go up the board and write 350 times:

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