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Old 08-25-2010, 03:48 PM   #106
Kilo Sierra
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Thanks Lennie...

I will.
ks
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Old 08-25-2010, 03:53 PM   #107
Rapid Dog
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Talking holier than

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookalatch
... you only need a 4 holer.
teehee...he said 4 holer!

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Old 08-25-2010, 04:53 PM   #108
signit98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Hookalatch
Look at your stock left side sprocket. If it only has 4 evenly spaced holes you only need a 4 holer. My 2007 left side sprocket only has the 4 holes.

Chuck
Great advise...!
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:38 PM   #109
TrainedChimp
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Can anyone tell me what I should torque the cam sprocket bolts to?


I got the install done tonight, itís pretty fiddly getting the old sprocket out and the new one in especially without dropping anything into the engine. Everything went pretty well I followed this guide posted by someone earlier. He mentions turning the rear wheels to align the tab on the new cam sprockets I didnít need to do that, you can rotate the slot on the cam side instead, it moves very easily with a screw driver. Now that I am mostly done everything, thankfully, still lines up; TDC mark, cam arrows out pointing to the same spot on the chain, valves slack at TDC. I did rotate the rear wheel after the cams were on and the only thing concerning it Iím hearing a click from the right hand side when manually rotating the rear wheel, I think Iím hearing the valves on that side Ė donít remember if it was doing that before or not. All I need to do now is to final torque the cam sprockets and put the crash bars and tank back on.



I also checked the valves while I was in there and they were still in spec.
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Old 08-25-2010, 09:52 PM   #110
lightfighter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergiok
Slacker!
i would have let him put mine on, but i think he was goofing off up in alaska or something.... go figure.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:32 PM   #111
Sergiok
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainedChimp
Can anyone tell me what I should torque the cam sprocket bolts to?


I got the install done tonight, itís pretty fiddly getting the old sprocket out and the new one in especially without dropping anything into the engine. Everything went pretty well I followed this guide posted by someone earlier. He mentions turning the rear wheels to align the tab on the new cam sprockets I didnít need to do that, you can rotate the slot on the cam side instead, it moves very easily with a screw driver. Now that I am mostly done everything, thankfully, still lines up; TDC mark, cam arrows out pointing to the same spot on the chain, valves slack at TDC. I did rotate the rear wheel after the cams were on and the only thing concerning it Iím hearing a click from the right hand side when manually rotating the rear wheel, I think Iím hearing the valves on that side Ė donít remember if it was doing that before or not. All I need to do now is to final torque the cam sprockets and put the crash bars and tank back on.



I also checked the valves while I was in there and they were still in spec.
No idea about the clicking but one thing for sure, after all is said and done with the chain/sprocket/etc and just before you put the spark plugs back in, turn the engine over by hand and make sure EVERYTHING is as it it should be (rotates correctly, etc). I think one guy on the PP board had an issue where he was perhaps one tooth off and had to start from scratch. The last thing you want to do is err one tooth off then fire the engine up and have it grenade a split second later!
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:46 PM   #112
TrainedChimp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergiok
No idea about the clicking but one thing for sure, after all is said and done with the chain/sprocket/etc and just before you put the spark plugs back in, turn the engine over by hand and make sure EVERYTHING is as it it should be (rotates correctly, etc). I think one guy on the PP board had an issue where he was perhaps one tooth off and had to start from scratch. The last thing you want to do is err one tooth off then fire the engine up and have it grenade a split second later!
Yep, everything rotates fine, turned the rear wheel quite a few times and everything still lines up; TDC mark, cam arrows out and pointing to the same spot on the chain, valves closed at TDC - checked both sides. I think it's all good.
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:48 PM   #113
signit98
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Location: Sun Diego, Mexifornia
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainedChimp
Can anyone tell me what I should torque the cam sprocket bolts to?


I got the install done tonight, itís pretty fiddly getting the old sprocket out and the new one in especially without dropping anything into the engine. Everything went pretty well I followed this guide posted by someone earlier. He mentions turning the rear wheels to align the tab on the new cam sprockets I didnít need to do that, you can rotate the slot on the cam side instead, it moves very easily with a screw driver. Now that I am mostly done everything, thankfully, still lines up; TDC mark, cam arrows out pointing to the same spot on the chain, valves slack at TDC. I did rotate the rear wheel after the cams were on and the only thing concerning it Iím hearing a click from the right hand side when manually rotating the rear wheel, I think Iím hearing the valves on that side Ė donít remember if it was doing that before or not. All I need to do now is to final torque the cam sprockets and put the crash bars and tank back on.



I also checked the valves while I was in there and they were still in spec.
Factory spec for the Camshaft Sprocket Bolt is 65nm... I usually clean the bolt and the thread with carb cleaner and then use a dab of loctite.

As for the clicking, you are likely hearing the valve train... if everything rotates freely and you don't feel anything hitting (i.e, Valve/Pistons), all should be well.

Now tighten those bolts and have fun!
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Old 08-25-2010, 10:49 PM   #114
signit98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lightfighter
i would have let him put mine on, but i think he was goofing off up in alaska or something.... go figure.
Yeah, kick a man for having some fun... I see how you are!
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:03 AM   #115
lennie
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Mag00,

No you were not duped. I would never infer that.

From the photos I would say you just got an early set is all.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:07 AM   #116
mag00
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No not you Lennie, I thought maybe RFK just sent what was on their shelf. Old batch or not if I only need 1 with 5 holes then these will work.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:17 AM   #117
TrainedChimp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by signit98
Factory spec for the Camshaft Sprocket Bolt is 65nm... I usually clean the bolt and the thread with carb cleaner and then use a dab of loctite.

As for the clicking, you are likely hearing the valve train... if everything rotates freely and you don't feel anything hitting (i.e, Valve/Pistons), all should be well.

Now tighten those bolts and have fun!
Signit98, thanks. Didn't use loctite becaue I already had most everything back together and didn't want to pull the bolts out again.

Bike is purring like a kitten.
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Old 08-26-2010, 09:19 AM   #118
Rapid Dog
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TrainedChimp

Bike is purring like a kitten.
...but do they work?!!
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Old 08-26-2010, 04:32 PM   #119
TrainedChimp
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid Dog
...but do they work?!!
I only got to ride for about 30 minutes today. Bike sure seems smooth, I don't feel like I'm lugging the engine giving it gas in the low 3k rpm range anymore and the mid 4ks seem less vibey than I remember. That was definitely a short test though. So far so good. I don't have any regrets about buying them.
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Old 08-26-2010, 05:47 PM   #120
Sergiok
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Do you have an aftermarket can? A Dobeck/Wunderlich or other type of controller on the bike?
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