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Old 12-15-2012, 12:39 AM   #256
disston
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I've seen the after market brackets you have in person. I thought they looked not right. I prefer the OEM brackets. I don't have a problem with cutting the brackets to fit the upper triple. There's not a shortage of brackets. We probably have more brackets than we need.
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Old 12-15-2012, 04:51 PM   #257
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I definitely say go with the cheapo's. Is the paint flat? If so, get them powder coated like everything else. Or maybe chrome or silver like the forks?
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Old 12-17-2012, 06:42 AM   #258
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Thanks for the input, gents. For now, I'm going to leave the cheapos on. I can always decide to cut and use stock mounts later if I want. I do like the position the cheapos hold the headlight in more than the stock mounts.

Enzo: Yes, flat black paint. I agree that they would look better shiny. The way they mount together includes a slip-fit on one end though, and I think powder coat would be a bad idea. They offer chrome or silver ones as well, and I specifically wanted black to match the headlight bucket. Maybe I'll end up painting them with the same black paint I used to paint the engine badges. For now though, I have bigger battles so they'll stay like they are!
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Old 12-17-2012, 10:05 AM   #259
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Good to see the report going live again.

Another vote for modding the stock mounts.

Keep up the good work.
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Old 12-17-2012, 03:08 PM   #260
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Holy smoke, it just look fantastic
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Old 12-19-2012, 02:41 PM   #261
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Thanks Packer and jocce!

Well, let's get going again, shall we? I work in sales and was expecting the last week before Christmas to be slow enough to allow me a lot of time in the garage, but instead it's been crazy. So I woke up at 5:45AM this morning to get a few hours in before the day began. I'm glad I did, it ended up being very productive.

Now that I had the flywheel bolts, it was time to clean things up and reinstall the flywheel and clutch.

Cleaning the flywheel with brake cleaner:



The starter gears were so crudded up that I had to lightly use a wire brush to get them clean. You can see the half that has been brushed and the half that has not here:



Getting there:



All clean:



Flywheel installed:





New friction plate, getting ready to assemble the clutch pack:



Assembled and mocked up:



My bike (all slash 5's (?)) has little spacers that go between the pressure ring and the pressure plate. I forgot this little fact and picked the clutch pack up, got one long screw started into the flywheel, and immediately lost the other five spacers. They went rolling everywhere. Damn. After 10 minutes of locating them all again, I got wise and taped the bolts to the pressure ring to hold the washers in place:



Much better! This was my first try of setting it all up. I don't have the BMW clutch alignment tool, but I think I have a pretty damn good eye for detail, so I decided to try to line it up by sight:





It looked pretty good, so I put the three regular clutch bolts in, removed the three long compression bolts, and tried to mount the transmission. Nope, I was off. So, off came the entire clutch pack so I could give it another shot. I was starting to think eyeballing the alignment could take many tries, so I was looking for another way. I had read about using the transmission to align the clutch, but I couldn't figure out how to do it. I'd have to remove the long compression bolts to allow the transmission to get close enough, and then I couldn't back the standard clutch bolts out far enough to release enough tension to allow the friction plate to move into adjustment. So instead, I started looking for some way to make a tool. I ended up coming up with this:



It's a center punch pushed through a 5/8" spark plug socket (the spark plug socket has a rubber washer that holds the punch in place and centers it). I had to turn the socket on my grinder to remove some material so that it fit into the female spline, and then I added some tape to the punch to build up thickness and center it on the backside.

I tried it, and it seemed to work well. When I used it, I felt the friction plate slide in the direction that I thought it should go to be more centered than my first attemp:



I still wasn't sure if it would be perfect though. Only one way to find out. Mounted the tranny up, and WOOHOOO! Sucess!!!







I ran out of time, so this is where I stopped for the day. I'm hoping to get up early again tomorrow and hit the garage. Next is to clean up the rest of the engine with the wire brush attachment so that it's ready to go back in the frame. Then it's finding a few guys to borrow and pay with beer to help me lift the engine back in place without scratching the shiny powdercoating!
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backdrifter screwed with this post 12-20-2012 at 05:06 AM
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Old 12-19-2012, 04:06 PM   #262
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Goes without saying.

Of course you will tape that lovely powder coated frame before you attempt to install the engine. I just installed mine myself by mating the transmission after mounting the engine. I still had the cylinders on so it was a bit heavy but I was impatient and didn't wait for the burly lads to help me. Without the cylinders, should be a piece of cake but remember the tape. I used ordinary electrical tape but Chris Harris from Affordable Beemers on YouTube recommends green painters tape covered with duct tape as an extra precaution. I also placed a floor jack with a piece of plywood on it beneath the bike to help with the alignment. Worked like a charm.
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Old 12-19-2012, 06:59 PM   #263
georgesgiralt
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Hello !
Having removed the tranny twice in a few weeks, I can give you some advice.
If I where you, I will protect the frame with tape and install the engine first without the tranny;
Put a jack between the frame and put the engine on it on it's sump. Put the engine as far front as it will go. This will gives you enough clearance to insert the gearbox from left side without removing the swingarm. Then, using the jack carefully position the engine to align with the mounting holes, and insert the "screws" not forgetting the spacers if there are some. It is easier done than written and the jack is a blessing as it take all the load ! Then once the engine is bolted to the frame, finish centering the gearbox and bolt it to the engine. Afterwards, you have to bolt the shaft and the rubber boot then install cylinders, heads, carburetors..... And then run the bike !
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:11 AM   #264
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Thanks for the suggestions, gents. I've been going back and forth on whether or not I should try to mount the engine with or without the transmission on. If I can get enough guys to help, I think I'll do it with the transmission in place. That's how I removed the engine from the frame, and it wasn't too bad (though I didn't care if I banged or scratched the frame at that time because it was so ratty). If I can't get much help, I'll do it with the transmission removed.

I had already considered protecting the frame, but I think I'm going to use pipe insulation instead of tape. I may have to use tape right where the engine mount studs go, but other than that, I'm going to line everything with pipe insulation like this:

http://www.farmandfleet.com/products...w#.UNMNvq4cqRk

I would think that would protect the frame pretty darn well.
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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Old 12-20-2012, 03:40 PM   #265
Tin Woodman
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drain hole

lower water drain hole below clutch looks a little plugged - did you clean it out before you installed the tranny?
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:19 PM   #266
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Hi Tin Woodman,

Thanks for the warning. I have the tranny off again, so I'll take a closer look. Just so I'm clear, can you point me to the photo above that you saw it in? I'm not 100% positive where you mean (I'm sure if I walked out to the garage I would find it, but I'm in the warm house right now!).
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:19 PM   #267
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A bit more progress today, but nothing earth shattering. I went out to clean up the rest of the engine, which needs to be done before it can go in the frame. I was lazy and didn't want to install the cylinders and then remove them again before mounting the engine, so I just covered them like this to keep any debris out:



And then I finally unblocked the crank as well. Even though the whole flywheel and clutch is fully assembled, I was still nervous to unblock the crank. All of the horror stories told on this site had really hit home!



Left side on it's way. It doesn't look perfect, but will with some Rub N' Buff.



Right side:



Then I remembered I still had to scrape the old gasket off of the timing chain cover. Damn. This gasket is a major pain and I ended up having to remove the starter, which I hadn't planned on doing. No big deal, and now I can properly clean undereath it. I scraped away for about 15 minutes and lost my motivation, so I moved on. I'll finish it up tomorrow.



As the engine currently sits:



Then I decided to start readying the frame for the engine. I removed the jack from underneath and put her on the centerstand - the first time in over a year that she's "stood" on her own!

I went to Lowe's and bought two six foot sections of 1" pipe insulation:



And five minutes later, my bike was fully protected from my future ham-fisted attempts to reintroduce the engine into the shiny powdercoat-covered frame:





This stuff seems perfect. It went on easy, will be very protective, and is easy to tear off. It fits just about perfectly, and I can still get to the engine mount holes easily. I think I've decided to mount the engine as it currently sits - no transmisison, no front covers. I coudl probably do it myself without hurting the bike (especially now that it's wrapped in foam), but I'd rather wait until I have someone else here to help. No point in getting antsy now!
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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Old 12-20-2012, 04:48 PM   #268
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not a big deal but one of your photos without tranny shows a box cutter blade near the drain hole. Good time to clean it out is now. Otherwise, it will accumulate crud which might inaccurately indicate a failed rear main seal. Just being prudent.
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:01 PM   #269
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No, thank you much, I truly appreciate it. I see it now and didn't even know there was a drain there. I'll clean it out tomorrow.

Thanks again!
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1973 BMW R60/5:
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166
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Old 12-20-2012, 05:08 PM   #270
disston
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Since this seems a good time to criticize some of your stuff, or maybe it's a character default of mine, but I am much more anal about cleaning than you are. I think you could do a better job. I don't leave any grime in the corners or greasy residue on surfaces.

I would put more wire ties and maybe some tape on the insulation. The insulation seems to be a good idea but if it gets bumped it will move.
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