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Old 12-28-2012, 06:00 PM   #301
53dodgekustom
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backdrifter View Post

One quick question - the kickstart lever when fully depressed makes contact with the frame - is that normal? If it is, I'm sure I didn't care before, but now that the frame is shiny and new, I'll have to figure out how to mount a bump stop of some sort.

Thanks for reading along!
I think if you will find that if you have the foot pegs mounted and at the correct height to clear the headers that the kickstarter will bottom out on the peg rubber. My kickstarter has torn my rubber up really bad from smashing into it. Need to fix my electric start!! The kickstarter on these bikes seems like an afterthought unlike the /2 which had a nice pad on the frame that it bottomed on. Not to mention 10 times easier to kick! Bike is looking amazing BTW. Hope to see you out on it this summer!
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:45 PM   #302
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Wow!

Backdrifter,
Awesome gets tossed around these days like a new football on Christmas day; I won't use the word, but I am in awe of what you have done here. I've been with you the whole way, just watching and emoting at the beauty of this loving rebuild! So here you are some 23 months since you made the space in the garage and rolled in the machine that so many years ago was loved by Mr. Adams. I'm an old guy, and I can put myself in his frame of mind and tell you without doubt that what you are about to finalize would bring many many tears to his eyes. Tonight I discovered a new pleasure to this thread; I started at the first post and scrolled through the entire two plus years at sort of a moderate speed. It was like watching a time lapse or an old movie. Seeing all the old parts come off and the new, and polished, and repainted ones magically reassemble was moving to say the least.

What an honor to Mr. Adams.... What a gift to his memory!
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Old 12-28-2012, 09:45 PM   #303
Tin Woodman
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not sure why your kick start is hitting the frame

Mine can only go as far as the foot peg and clears the frame by over an inch. Per photos. . .



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Tin Woodman screwed with this post 12-28-2012 at 10:03 PM Reason: better photo
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Old 12-29-2012, 02:42 AM   #304
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"Awesome gets tossed around these days like a new football on Christmas day; I won't use the word" I totally agree. The view from the North Rim of the Grand Canyon is 'awesome' and almost everything else pales in comparison.

An excellent and interesting thread by the way.

A question. I have just finished dismantling (US = disassembling) my 1989 R100GS-Paris Dakar and noticed that the engine mounting studs are two different lengths, the longest at the front, the shortest at the back. There are four engine/frame spacers, three of one width and the fourth a bit wider. On my bike the wider spacer I found to be on the righthand side at the front but on examining microfishes, the widest one should be on the left. Which is the correct side for the widest spacer?

Paul_Rochdale screwed with this post 12-29-2012 at 03:05 AM
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Old 12-29-2012, 04:56 AM   #305
Renner
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 53dodgekustom View Post
I think if you will find that if you have the foot pegs mounted and at the correct height to clear the headers that the kickstarter will bottom out on the peg rubber.
+1
IIRC it's the T-top of the kicker that bottoms on the footpeg. This pic from http://www.bmbikes.co.uk/index.htm shows the line-up and peg height.



not my bike.

My trans spat a tooth years ago and got a no-kick 5 speed transplant.
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Old 12-29-2012, 06:25 AM   #306
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First of all, thanks for all of the comments! Secondly, I went out and checked, and you guys are absolutely correct - my kickstart lever bottoms out on the left footpeg, not the frame. My comments were a bit premature - I must have checked the travel of the lever before mounting the footpeg. Sorry!



Renner - thanks for your input, you're becoming very helpful, so please stick around!

Tin Woodman - is there anywhere I can see more photos of your bike? It looks nice!

Paul_Rochdale - I think my bike is different, so I really can't answer your question well. My bike has two spacers that are also center stand stops and mounting perches for the center stand springs on the front engine stud, and two equal-thickness aluminum spacers (one on each side) on the back engine stud.

old2wheeler - thank you very much for the kind comments! I'm glad you're enjoying the read so much, and thanks for taking the time to follow along! I never did get Papa's thoughts on restoring an old bike. As we know, many BMW riders consider it sacrilege and would rather have the patina, oxidation, and honest road wear. I hope Papa didn't fall into that camp!

53dodgekustom - thanks for the help. I'll definitely hit you up for a vintage bike night in St. Louis or for some Missouri twisty roads riding when she's (finally) done!
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:46 AM   #307
Tin Woodman
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Comparative pics of my project

Not as nice as your project but it's cost peanuts so far. You've set the bar pretty high.

http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/us...787b9.jpg.html
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Old 12-29-2012, 10:14 AM   #308
mattsz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by backdrifter;20346735
Left header and crossover installed:

I've never seen a new pipe on one of these - look at the finned nut's reflection! It's art!!!
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:23 PM   #309
enzorover
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Looking amazing, Backdrifter.
90% done with 90% to go!
I like the picture of the reflection on the header pipe, too. Very artsy!
Is there a way protect the finish so it doesn't blue with heat?
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Old 12-30-2012, 04:41 AM   #310
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Really, those finned nuts are beautiful. Are they new? I've never seen them look half as nice as that.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:31 AM   #311
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Thanks Enzo! 90% done, 90% to go seems about right! I'm not sure if there is anything that can be applied to keep the pipes from blueing, but I'd love to hear about it if there is.

Mattsz and JonnyCash - thanks! I liked the reflecton of the exhaust nut too, glad you guys caught that! They are the original exhaust nuts after deep cleaning in a parts washer.
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Old 12-30-2012, 07:45 AM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tin Woodman View Post
Not as nice as your project but it's cost peanuts so far. You've set the bar pretty high.

http://s1295.beta.photobucket.com/us...787b9.jpg.html
Looking great! It's amazing how much time can be spent cleaning these old girls, isn't it? Did you have to freshen up the engine at all? Yours has about double the miles of mine and looks far better than mine did when I started. I really like the sheen you achieved on the engine and cast aluminum bits - how did you go about that?

Keep up the good work!
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Old 12-30-2012, 08:14 PM   #313
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my secrets revealed

Quote:
Originally Posted by backdrifter View Post
Looking great! It's amazing how much time can be spent cleaning these old girls, isn't it? Did you have to freshen up the engine at all? Yours has about double the miles of mine and looks far better than mine did when I started. I really like the sheen you achieved on the engine and cast aluminum bits - how did you go about that?

Keep up the good work!
Purists will scream at me but I'm lazy and take many short cuts. I use acetone as a degreaser and cleaner (it's cheaper than brake cleaner and possibly healthier). I use a stainless steel wire wheel to clean up threads and rusty parts but it will strip zinc and cadmium plating off in a jiffy, too. I don't care - my project will probably never see rain as long as I own it. My weapon of choice -



I use two grades of buffing compound to polish some parts - it takes only a few minutes to rehabilitate the finish on small aluminum parts. A good carnauba wax will keep the mirror finish intact for a little while but don't hold your breath.

Like yourself, I used a small wire wheel on a drill for the engine case. Swirls were disguised by using water and SOS pads (I can hear the screaming again - you really shouldn't use steel wool on aluminum because small particles may remain in the aluminum, etc. Again, I don't care - I'll take the risk.)

And finally (and this ought to light up the circuits) I sandblast some aluminum parts! I draw the line at cylinder heads and other parts that may become contaminated with grit but what the hell, I'm not fixing the Hubble telescope. I hit the sandblasted parts with water and SOS pads afterwards to soften the effect. I put some parts in the kitchen dishwasher when my wife's not home. Conventional dishwasher detergent will turn your freshly cleaned parts a horrible blackish shade so the last time I pulled this stunt, I used ordinary dish soap. This is another big no-no but the parts come out really clean. The tremendous mess it leaves in your kitchen is almost worth it. Try it - you'll see.

Here's a picture of my sandblast rig - use it outdoors only and protect your eyes, lungs, exposed skin, etc. Costs around 50 bucks.

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Old 01-01-2013, 08:41 AM   #314
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Nice methods! It just goes to show that there are many ways to skin a cat!

Today is my last Christmas Vacation Day and I intend to spend most of it sitting on the couch watching football, but I did want to get a few things done first.

I had forgotten to mount the rubber driveshaft boot when installing the engine. I thought I could squeeze it between the driveshaft flange and the transmission flange, but nothing doing. So I removed the swingarm pins again and pulled the swingarm back far enough to slip it into place.







With it in place, I was able to install the driveshaft bolts.



Looks the same, but now the transmission actually drives the rear wheel!





I was going to start mounting the carbs again, but I didn't get too far. This whole time I thought these sleeves on the end of the heads were metal and were rusted. In fact, I got as far as masking off the heads and blocking the air intakes with plastic bags so that I could use a wire brush on a Dremel to clean them up. Then I took a closer look and realized that they're paper or cardboard. Is this normal?

The sleeves I'm talking about:





I figured I'd hold off until I heard more. If it is how it's supposed to be, it may be time to order new sleeves. If not, then I'll make sure the right parts go back on.
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Old 01-01-2013, 09:21 AM   #315
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Never seen those paper sleeves before. Somebody put them on the intakes to protect them? If you take them off the rubber for the intake/carb connection will probably fit.
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