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Old 02-04-2011, 06:15 PM   #31
robsmoto
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Looks like a fun project. For your amusement regarding BMW Bing carburetors you may wish to read this -
http://home.insightbb.com/~cdpumphr/...chronicles.htm

And the R60/5 bikes are pretty stout. The late Fred Taush had about 630,000 on his at the time of his passing. The vid clips below are from the 2000 AMA Vintage Days when I caught up with Fred and I had a video camera. As one can easily tell Fred (a PhD, by the way) had his own opinions about things. It was hard to argue with his results.



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Old 02-04-2011, 06:54 PM   #32
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Wow! You are a very fortunate man to have acquired such a special family memento. If I am not too bold to suggest, be careful to maintain as much of the original paint and patina as possible. I have restored a few bikes, and have come to realize that I wished I had kept them in their original paint and chrome (even if pitted and rusty). There comes a time with every motorcycle marque, that an over abundance of fully restored examples come to life. Once the old original paint is gone, you can never go back... it is sort of a priceless and unique state of being. Consider the BMW as a work of fine art to be maintained, ridden and preserved.
Having that special connection to Papa and now having his bike to cherish is a very honored position in life.
Cheers!
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Old 02-05-2011, 08:10 PM   #33
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Thanks again to Zagando for leading me to the Pine Sol thread. The left carb was just pulled from a can of Pine Sol and the right one is going in now. The left one definitely looked better (though not as night and day as the original poster's carbs in the Pine Sol thread). It's a nice trick and for under $4.00, you can't beat it!

In response to some questions and replies:

vicster: The title is in the works. Either Papa or the family misplaced it in the move back home, or after Papa passed. Either way, the end result it that no one has been able to find it. I've spoken with a great title company that I've used to get many-a-illegal dirt bike plated for street use, and he's walking me through the process of getting a new title in my name. My mother-in-law is the executer of Papa's will and she is willing to help in any way possible. I'm hoping to have the title in hand in the next couple of months.

robsmoto: Thanks for sharing! I had never heard of Mr. Taush, but I've just added him to my list of heros. 630,000 miles! Holy crap! I guess my old girl is just a baby with 43,000 miles!

RideDualSport.com: Thanks for your insight. I will give this serious thought. I went out this weekend and did a bit of polishing - the silencers, the toaster panels, the headlight ring. All of them could use a bit more work, but I couldn't believe how much they've cleaned up already. Even the paint really is better than I've given it credit for. My vision has been to bring this bike back to mint condition - as it was when Papa got it. I think he would like that. I see your point though, and though I think I'll probably still repaint and rechrome the items that need it, I will give it long and hard thought before committing. Very good point - there's no going back once the original coatings are gone. Thanks for the input!

Out of town for business for a week, but hoping to have the carbs back together and the bike running next weekend. Keep your fingers crossed for me...
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Old 02-12-2011, 04:32 PM   #34
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Well, another day, another win for the BMW.

I picked up two new floats, needle valves, and pivot pins this morning from my friendly BMW dealer (seriously, Gateway BMW in STL is great - every time I've been there I've been impressed with the knowledge and service).

I got home, pulled the 2nd carb out of Pine-Sol, and started cleaning and reassembling it. The Pine-Sol seemed to work well, but not as well as the other thread about it in The Garage. Still, for under $4, it was well worth it. I will say this - I accidentally left one of the the float bowl gaskets in during the soaking. I removed the first, but forgot to do so with the 2nd. The gasket seemed to swell quite a bit. I dried it some and was able to refit it, but I would definitely remove it if I did another soak in the future.

So, both carbs received new floats, needle valves and pivot pins and then went back onto the bike. I started kicking her over (dead battery) and had no luck. I gave the carbs a shot of starter fluid. No luck. I removed the spark plugs and checked for spark (while kicking). No spark. About this time, I noticed that one of the carbs was still leaking some. I removed the carbs again, checked and re-set the float levels as best I could, and went to the local auto parts store for some new spark plugs.

Back in the garage I assembled everything again and saw no spark, so I decided to hook the BMW up to my car battery. I was then able to see the plugs spark, so I put them back in the cylinders, gave her another light shot of starting fluid (into the cylinder head via the spark plug holes this time) and tried the electric starter. No luck - it clicked a lot, but didn't have enough juice to turn her over very strongly. I let the car run and the bike absorb some juice for 10 minutes. Tried again, and got some very promising turn overs, but she never fired. I then went to the store to find a new battery to see if I would have better luck, but I wasn't able to find the right size (18LA). So, starting her is postponed for a few more days.

A few questions:

1. Any reason why I wouldn't be able to see spark while using the kick starter? Kicking like a nancy girl, perhaps?

2. I'm wondering if I have another problem somewhere - I can see the electric starter not having enough juice to turn her over enough to fire, but with starter fluid and a healthy kick I would've thought she would fire, but I have a sore left leg that proves otherwise.

Any input is greatly appreciated!
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Old 02-12-2011, 05:01 PM   #35
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Couple of thoughts: The starter fluid would have evaporated by the time you put the plugs back in most likely. I'm wondering if the coils have loose or corroded connections? I'm suspecting that the spark you saw might have not been very strong as the coil connections and all electrical connections are likely to be at least somewhat corroded.

Good luck!!
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Old 02-12-2011, 06:58 PM   #36
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Thanks for the input, I appreciate it. My next step if the new battery doesn't bring her to life is to start following the electrical system from the plugs back.
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Old 02-12-2011, 07:24 PM   #37
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Uhm... B-drifter, have you purchased a repair manual for your bike yet? I just noticed that you removed the carbs by unscrewing the intake stubbs and that not really the way to perform that task.

I would also venture to suggest that if it's necessary to clean your carbs using Pine Sol and replace the flats and needles, that it's also time to replace all of the seals and o-rings, change the oil, the filter and gasket, clean the tank and replace the fuel lines.

Tracking down a shop manual will give you a better understanding of how the bike goes together and result in fewer broken parts. JAMHIK!

Terrific bike, good project and don't throw that fairing away. Those Wixom Rangers are great fairings!


Me and my R90 in 1989

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Old 02-12-2011, 08:21 PM   #38
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Hi mymindsok,

Thanks for the comments, and nice photo!

In response to your concerns:

Yes, I do have a repair manual (Clymer). I tried removing the carbs the without unscrewing the intake stubs, but they were extremely stuck. I couldn't get enough pressure to pull the carbs out and didn't want to put something in between the carb and the cylinder to pry them off.

I've already replaced the seals and o-rings. I've also replaced the fuel line and air filter. The tank was taken to a radiator shop where it was thoroughly cleaned and coated. I'm on a mission to hear this thing run, and once I do get it running, I'll warm it enough to properly drain and change the engine oil and filter. Next I'll take it for a short ride to warm up all of the other fluids that need to be changed and get those done. Little by little...

The intake stubs are still quite stuck in the carbs - any advice on how to get them loose would be greatly appreciated!

Oh, and don't worry - I'm not throwing the fairing away. I may use it as a bar light in the basement for the time being, but it won't get thrown away!
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http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=608166

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Old 02-13-2011, 01:33 AM   #39
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Maybe well after the fact but the Pine Sol will work best if diluted 50/50 with very hot (boiling or thereabouts) water along with some vibration while soaking.

The tips about replacing gaskets, seals and rubber bits are also quite valid.

Sorry I forgot to mention that Pine Sol doesn't do any good to gaskets and rubber bits..........egads!
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Old 02-13-2011, 07:48 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zagando View Post
Sorry I forgot to mention that Pine Sol doesn't do any good to gaskets and rubber bits..........egads!
No harm, no foul!

I think I'm dead in the water today. No battery, and apparently no chance of kicking her to life. Maybe I'll connect her up to the car one more time and cross my fingers...
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Old 02-13-2011, 10:48 AM   #41
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Edit: oops.. had not read all of the above... below is about carbys:

Make sure you adjust the float level... with the carbs on the bike: with bowls off, hold the float gently and turn on the gas. The idea is to have fuel shut off completely when the float tops are "level", or parallel to the carbs. As the float drops, the fuel should start to flow.

TIP: I have done the above, OFF BIKE, by simply using some (unused!) fuel line which I stuck in my mouth to blow air, and holding the carbs up at eye level while I moved the floats up and down. You can easily feel/hear/see the proper "float level"...

The adjustment is done by gently bending the little tab that actually pushes the float needle up.

Once you get it adjusted, then try it "live" on the bike... if you still are getting fuel overflow, then chances are that the floats are sinking. Those foam floats can be nasty looking and orange and still work fine, but they should not have absorbed ANY fuel.

If the leaking happens intermittently, it is likely that the tab/float-needle interface is not sliding, and it could be either a worn/cruddy tab, or a bad needle. Of course, replacing both needles and both floats should get rid of any hardware problems! ($$!)

Good luck!


Further edit: your car battery/jump should provide enough juice for ignition system, if not turnover by starter. Are you sure you have your switch "on".... those Slash 5 "switches" can be pretty funky! If you can, just make sure you are getting 12v to the coil when the switch is "on"... and then the next thing to check is that your points are opening/closing and not shorting.
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:38 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bpeckm View Post
Are you sure you have your switch "on".... those Slash 5 "switches" can be pretty funky! If you can, just make sure you are getting 12v to the coil when the switch is "on"... and then the next thing to check is that your points are opening/closing and not shorting.
Hi bpeckm,

I'm not sure of anything! The key is pushed all the way in and in the center position. A red light comes on, and a yellow light that supposedly indicates when the bike is ready to be started. Both come on, and the bike cranks (albeit weakly), but no ignition.

Can you overfill the float bowl by using the tickler? I tried both before starting the bike just a few moments ago and then the left carb started leaking again. It had not been leaking since I set it up yesterday morning.

I'm starting to feel like I'm going in circles....
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Old 02-13-2011, 01:51 PM   #43
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Yes, you can overfill with tickler.. you must have the early carbs to have the tickler. Try leaving them alone... it sounds as though you need to sort out the spark problem, first!

If you are getting those lights, then yes, the switch is working. But you still need to find why you are not getting spark. Try these:

Easiest check for spark: pull both plugs (makes it easier to kick/turn over, put the caps on the plugs and lay them on the cylinders. Then kick/turn over. You should see SOME kind of spark. Get new spark plugs (you will want them, anyway), since a flooded (over-flowing gas) plug is notoriously hard to fire.


Read up on points: they are dead simple, but seem to give "those of the younger generation(s)" a hard time. The points simply provide an intermittent electrical ground to give time for the build-up of the coil "spark"...

If the bike has not been run for some time, the points are the likely suspect for a no-spark condition, as they could have been stuck in either open or closed position, and in either case you would not have spark.

To check points, first disconnect the battery neutral. Then, and only after the disconnect, remove the front cover of the engine. The points are down at the bottom. You can see them open and close as the starter rotates the engine. If they remain open, or remain closed, you must free them up and set them properly. Lots of places to find how to do this....

Get started, and let me know.

I have a 60/6, and a couple of friends with /5's, so I am reasonably familiar with your problem(s)... feel free to pm me and I can get in touch by email, or phone if it helps!

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Old 02-13-2011, 02:05 PM   #44
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I appreciate your help very much.

The problem is, I am seeing some spark - I did the test you recommended of laying the spark plugs on the cylinder head yesterday. Interestingly, I'm seeing NOTHING when kicking, but when I connect the bike to the car battery and use the electric start, I see a nice strong spark. Perhaps it's still not strong enough? I did get new spark plugs too - NGK BP7ES, same as was in the bike when I got it.

What should the plug gap be (I couldn't find this info in Clymer or with Google)? Is it possible that all or some of the connections are just corroded enough as to weaken the spark to a point of not being sufficient?

By the way, thanks for the advice on the tickler. I went out and drained the float bowl back in to the tank, wiped everything down, and reassembled. I kicked her over a few times and tried with the battery again, and no fuel leaking. I'm glad it was just the tickler - I was rapidly losing confidence!
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Old 02-13-2011, 02:16 PM   #45
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It sounds as though your spark is "strong enough"... you are likely not seeing spark when kicking because your battery is just plain ng. With a jumper, you are providing the 12v necessary for the ignition system to fire.

OK, next try this. Leave your fuel shut off. Assuming that the carbs are on the bike, remove the air tubes between the carbs and air cleaner, and spritz a small amount of ether (starting fluid) into the mouth of each carb. Turn it over. If you hear any kind of pop, or effort to start, you do have ignition and the problem is likely in the carbs, or possibly in wrongly-timed engine. The starting fluid will bypass any carb problem for a couple of seconds...

What you are trying to do is to confirm that a) you have spark, and then b) the spark works under "working" conditions (compression), and then c) that you have some fuel delivery.

I have to leave the computer now, so will not be back online til tomorrow am, but if you pm me I can get an email on my phone, and I could call you if you run into a problem...

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