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Old 10-01-2011, 12:58 PM   #451
Padmei OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Nelson New Zealand
Oddometer: 3,333
Did a bit of pruning on the wiring loom yesterday. Got it down to this



It was quite interesting threading thru the loom. It is a bit annoying that the schmematic doesn't have the switching operations of the relays. I have to guess a few of them.

I got rid of the horn relay, load shedding relay, & the clutch switch. All the superfluous accessory outlets & bits were arseholed. The amount of cable joins were over the top. I trimmed them back & will run what is necessary. The actual condition of the plugs & contacts are pretty manky so will try to find some slender units to replace them with - all I have seen in the blister packs are the big white bulky multipin connectors.

I fitted the KLR LHS switch unit & hooked up the wires onto the appropriate BMW side. Fortunately the wiring of the KLR side is far more practical & easily followed. As it stands now the electrical componentry of the bike is quite a hybrid of BMW, KLR & generic parts.

I have come across some incompatibilty issues with the KLR brake lever, generic run/ start switch & Thomaselli throttle assembly. The cable outlet of the run switch hits the bolt of the brake perch. There is a long screw on the TA that hits the brake lever & also the BMW throttle cables don't have round cable ends but small lugs instead.
This all makes for a bit more thought & some modifications but it'll turn out good.

If I was to do it again I'd try to find the complete handlebar assembly off a wrecked bike & transfer over so everything fits better. I know there are hundreds of them out there however getting hold of them when you need them is a different matter. If i had known I was going to do this I'd have started looking a while back.
The generic cheap run switch doesn't look particulary good quality- more scooterish but easily hot wired if faulty

I'll post a few of the handlebars - it does look heaps better to me. it's a pity I have to run cables to the levers

All my seals have arrived from England & from the sounds of it my shock must be in the States so here's hoping in a few weeks it'll be getting pretty close to being a reliable summer steed.

Here's a pic of my new rear guard. it's quite a bit wider than I imagined & maybe not quite as minimalist as I hoped but definitely an improvement.



As it's pissing down outside I may get the chance to get the bike fired up today. In the meantime I have to find out why the neutral switch goes to the middle of the starter relay.
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:09 AM   #452
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I've had some good progress over the last couple of days. On Monday I told the boss to get stuffed & went to my local bike shop. We took the big white van home & picked up the kLX & Schmidtty.
I got a new knobbly, chain & sprockets put on the KLX ready for Team NADS assault on the 6hr XC race next weekend.

I partially disassembled schmidtty in the workshop, then the mechanic & I took the swingarm off & replaced the rear gearbox seal. We found that the end securing nut hadn't been tightened. we didn't need to use the special removal tool - it just came off with bit of a twist.
The mech had come across a situation before where the end nut had come loose leaving the output flange thing spinning - there was no drive. He was surprised that hadn't happened to mine.
I watched as he carefully seated the seal & tightened up. to my surprise there was no silicon over the breather hole above the seal so we gunked it up. We then stiched him up & wheeled him off the table.
This was done & dusted in under an hour- so much easier with 2 & of course a fair bit of practise by now.
I will fill it up & monitor any oil leakage - not entirely sure there isn't something else at work in there.


I left the bike there for him to replace the needle bearings in the rocker arm & double check the valve clearances.

I got to the bottom of my query over the starter relay. It had the coil feed from the start button & on the other side of the coil it ran to the neutral switch to earth and/or the clutch switch to earth. after a bit of tossing ideas around it struck me that the starter relay would only energise of either the clutch was pulled in or if it was in neutral. - A simple reason however took abit of clear thought to get to it.

I disconnected both switches from the relay & replaced the old manky relay with a new shiny standard 30amp relay. nice. Got a low wattage indicator flasher coming too.

With the new throttle assembly I required 2 new throttle cables as the existing ones were too short & had no large round nipple ends on them. Luckily a couple of universal cables were found in a cupboard that could be adjusted for length by way of an adjuster in the middle of the cables -perfect length - problem solved
If anyone wants a couple of throttle cables less than 1000kms old let me know. Likewise with the stock BMW controls - I won't be putting those things back on.


So looking good & way better than working... I asked if I could work in the bike shop - not necessarily get paid- just hang around & tinker
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Old 10-04-2011, 01:49 AM   #453
igormortis
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So you've bought yourself some riding time then? Me too...
I could probably use those bits.
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Old 10-08-2011, 10:26 PM   #454
Phreaky Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Did a bit of pruning on the wiring loom yesterday. Got it down to this



It was quite interesting threading thru the loom. It is a bit annoying that the schmematic doesn't have the switching operations of the relays. I have to guess a few of them.

I got rid of the horn relay, load shedding relay, & the clutch switch. All the superfluous accessory outlets & bits were arseholed. The amount of cable joins were over the top. I trimmed them back & will run what is necessary. The actual condition of the plugs & contacts are pretty manky so will try to find some slender units to replace them with - all I have seen in the blister packs are the big white bulky multipin connectors.

I fitted the KLR LHS switch unit & hooked up the wires onto the appropriate BMW side. Fortunately the wiring of the KLR side is far more practical & easily followed. As it stands now the electrical componentry of the bike is quite a hybrid of BMW, KLR & generic parts.

I have come across some incompatibilty issues with the KLR brake lever, generic run/ start switch & Thomaselli throttle assembly. The cable outlet of the run switch hits the bolt of the brake perch. There is a long screw on the TA that hits the brake lever & also the BMW throttle cables don't have round cable ends but small lugs instead.
This all makes for a bit more thought & some modifications but it'll turn out good.

If I was to do it again I'd try to find the complete handlebar assembly off a wrecked bike & transfer over so everything fits better. I know there are hundreds of them out there however getting hold of them when you need them is a different matter. If i had known I was going to do this I'd have started looking a while back.
The generic cheap run switch doesn't look particulary good quality- more scooterish but easily hot wired if faulty

I'll post a few of the handlebars - it does look heaps better to me. it's a pity I have to run cables to the levers

All my seals have arrived from England & from the sounds of it my shock must be in the States so here's hoping in a few weeks it'll be getting pretty close to being a reliable summer steed.

Here's a pic of my new rear guard. it's quite a bit wider than I imagined & maybe not quite as minimalist as I hoped but definitely an improvement.



As it's pissing down outside I may get the chance to get the bike fired up today. In the meantime I have to find out why the neutral switch goes to the middle of the starter relay.
Thats almost the same back guard as mine but i have the one with the number plate extension underneath. If its any help i can post a pic of mine ?
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:29 PM   #455
Padmei OP
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Thanks phil but my misson this week & next weekend is to join the wires up, get it running & full of oil. My shock should arrive from the States next week so that'll be exciting. i'll fit the rear guard on eventually. I have to 'lose' my existing plate to get a newer slimline one.

It's funny what are easily found & what aren't. trademe is full of all kinds of crap I don't want yet trying to find some slimline double wire connectors are like rockinghorse shoes. I'd have thought there'd be heaps of the things out there...

Looking forward to riding the big bertha. I have to laugh at it's girth when I push it around trying not to trip over the cylinders
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:37 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
It's funny what are easily found & what aren't. trademe is full of all kinds of crap I don't want yet trying to find some slimline double wire connectors are like rockinghorse shoes. I'd have thought there'd be heaps of the things out there...
Seen the Narva site?
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Old 10-08-2011, 11:45 PM   #457
Padmei OP
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Yeah I saw some of those in my auto electrical shop however they wanted $5 ea for a connector in a blister pack. To do the bike would cost more than what the bikes worth. I'll do the old bullet conectors for now.

Any progress on the fork swap? You can post the updates on this thread as you're overtaking me on posts & cheating by including pics of actual riding & ride reports - we didn't buy these bikes for that kind of carry on...
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:14 AM   #458
igormortis
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Riding? Don't be ridiculous! OK, my thread tomorrow, I think.
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Old 10-09-2011, 12:01 PM   #459
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Riding? Don't be ridiculous! OK, my thread tomorrow, I think.
About bloody time
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Old 10-15-2011, 01:21 AM   #460
Padmei OP
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Spent the day continuing wiring. Of course being a Saturday I realised I had no more black tape at lunchtime- when my wholesaler closes...
I tucked the wires under the tank & hit the start button - Broooooom!!!

He's Alive!!!
All the electrics work as they should & soon the jugs were hot enough to start burning off weeks of pollen, brake fluid & CRC. Time for a test ride

The clutch felt remarkedly lite to the touch- hmmmm On the centre stand I nudged it into 1st but the gearbox noise let me know it wasn't engaging.
I removed the clutch lever at the rear of the gearbox & checked the assembly with both manuals. Hmmm Looks the same to me. I took a cigar break & contemplated what it could be. The only thing I could think of was either I had installed the diaphram spring in the wrong way or the long piston/rod thing was getting hung up somewhere.
Approaching it again I decided to try to get as much adjustment as possible & try to gently force the rod in. - Bingo.
I realised that with the new clutch lever assembly there wasn't the same adjustment as on the stock. A bit of bodging around with a makeshift spacer & we were away.

With dark rain clouds looming I nipped out for a short cruise to the top of the whangamoas. the bike felt great. Smooth as.
The front brakes were prob the same as when i bought the bike - not that breathtaking, however I may keep an eye out for another brake lever m/c assembly with larger dia pistons & see if that makes a difference.
I was riding with an open face helmet & could hear the valves clattering away - loud valves save lives they say.
I'll re check the valves & end float.

I went in & paid the GST for the shock yesterday so hopefully early next week it will turn up.
I'll put some pics up tomm hopefully.
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Old 10-18-2011, 04:29 PM   #461
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:22 PM   #462
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Thanks for the interest Nutso. Well my wilbers shock arrived from the States yesterday. I ended up buying it from Ted Porters Beemershop. He was a nice gentleman to deal with.

Please excuse the not so good pics -they're from my phone.
Straight out of the box. I like the way moto parts always come with stickers



Luckily it's a 5 min job to replace the old one with the new one. I got it on & cabletied the reservoir to the carrier for now until I sort out a better place.






The shock runs pretty close to the tyre. I wouldn't want to run a wider tyre.










Heres a pic of the new look handlebars. The switchgear is much easier to use & in my opinion better looking. I'll replace the chromey looking clutch with a black one eventually.






I saddled up & went down the driveway last nite. It is a 300metre pot holed racetrack. Yowsers it felt like I was hauling a bag of potatoes on the back. It was bonejarringly rigid. hmmm. I went back up & had a look at the settings- preload was set pretty much down the thread.

This avo I wound the preload right off so the spring can actually turn around the shaft without much twisting it to see. One thing I had in my mind was that the oil & stuff would be pretty thick & unused.
I measured the static sag & dynamic sag (with me on top) with the preload set right off. The original measurement was 450mm,static, 410 & dynamic 385mm.
With this setting I tootled off along the road to head up & down the Whangamoas.
This road is a great one to ride with lots of twisties & varied road surfaces. I think I felt every bump on the way up & most of them on the way down. By the end it was almost like a mule kicking my kidneys when I rode over a bump
The bike was great around the corners where my old shock would have been pogoing. Very confidence inspiring.

Bearing in mind Nutso's opinion that his new Ohlins "didn't transform the bike" I wasn't expecting the comfort of a KTM 950 but didn't think the ride to be as harsh as this.

Now for those of you that remember my skepticism of the KLR intimators I fitted to Gonzo, I will add a disclaimer that suspension is nothing but perception to me. I for instance thought the KLR rear shock was good whereas everyone else slated it.
My old BMW shock may have been really stuffed & saggy however was actually quite comfortable to ride on apart from the pogoing. Likewise the KLX has a soft spring which from the opinions of the multitudes is too lite for anyone over 80Kgs.
So i'm thinking that either i'm too used to 'bad' or soft springs & i'll get used to it or maybe the shims/valves/ internals aren't run in yet.

BTW the shock was built by the factory for my weight, my bike & the style of riding I wanted to do -ie. not RTW or much 2up but cruising the dirt roads.
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Old 10-18-2011, 10:39 PM   #463
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Given that you have compression damping adjustment, have you tried backing that off? What is that set to?

Looking good btw, but the shock is far to shiney for Schmidty. You need to find some patina for it.

Have you thought about dropping the light down the forks - you'd be getting more of a scrambler look going then...& what's happened to the new rear mudguard?
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Old 10-18-2011, 11:28 PM   #464
Padmei OP
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Damping is set to factory but I will research & find which way to turn it to get the desired result.

It is quite shiny I admit however when I get the rear guard on it will set it off loverlyer. Nothing stays shiny for long where I live unfortunately. I have just noticed the pipes joined to the collector are rusted thru so I will maybe get my mate to work out a Y piece. It's whether or not I want to replace the headers at this stage.

Good call about the headlite however since half the wiring is in the back of it i'll prob leave it there. i find it gives quite a cool chopper look
i'd like to get a chopped low guard but haven't seen anything I like yet - they all look quite queer.
it's finally running nicely & I'm hoping to Wof it & get some miles under my belt on it.
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Old 10-19-2011, 12:06 AM   #465
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When I still had my K75S I fitted a Wilbers shock to it. It's pretty good kit, that was about 10 years ago. If that shock was set up for you, it should work out of the box.

I've got Elka shocks on my 1150 and they needed no adjustment either. The only thing I can think of is that you need to do something about your front end.

I used to have a CX500 and I bought a set of Koni shocks for that. The minute I sat on it, I realized that the front needed attention asap. So I ordered some progressive springs for the front. It transformed the bike.

That's why I did this immediately for the K75S, rear shock and front springs. Best money that can be spent on a bike with a running engine :-).

Your bike is starting look familiar :-)

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