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Old 08-10-2012, 03:11 AM   #1051
Padmei OP
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Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Nelson New Zealand
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
I used to think that.....
I have to stick my head in the sand at some point

Those aren't gloves - I'm a jafa & it's fricking cold down here


Good feedback guys - cheers.
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Old 08-10-2012, 01:50 PM   #1052
innathyzit
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A valve a couple of mm larger head size will not effect flow or anything, might even improve it. Generally they will machine a 70 degree angle in the throat to set the id of the seat then the 45degree seat then a 30 degree after that to set the od of the seat. If they can find a valve long enough then it is relatively easy to machine a collet groove into it (depending on the type of collet) and re hardening the tip. That way you can use the original rotor cap, otherwise use another rotor cap and collets to suit the valve. The BMW valves etc are similar specs to cars so substitutes shouldn't be too hard to find. You won't need to replace the seat.

The engine shop I took the benelli stuff to does a lot of old bike stuff and have some really nice gear. Tad pricey but then I own a KLR
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Old 08-11-2012, 02:07 PM   #1053
Padmei OP
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Dropped the sump off Schmidt yesterday.



Everything looked pretty nice really, no alligators or anything left in the sump. The oil pick up had some kind of vegetation jammed in there.




Slight bit of sludge but mopped up easily.





While it was open it gave me the opportunity to have a looksie at the cam lobes.




Remember how I was saying the cam followers only ride on one half of the cam lobes.




I have to put up a picture of this. I believe it is the cleanest part on the bike & as I'm not a cleaner type person it made me feel warm & tingly looking at this.






All buttoned up nice & snug.





I still had some time so I began removing the pushrod tubes. I heated the material around the tube.





Then a coupe of quick taps with my hammer on the socket adaptor & they dropped straight out. The socket adaptor fitted smoothly & snuggly in the hole & has a smooth round top so wouldn't damage the barrel.








I just have to mark the depths on the new pushrod tubes, freeze them, heat the barrels then tap them back in.
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:25 PM   #1054
Padmei OP
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Following Snowbums advice I stuffed the new pushrod tubes with wet rags (kind of a stainless caniloni & put them in the freezer for a few hours. It wasn't until I had finished that I worked out the wet rags were to stop the tube from bending when being inserted into the holes in the cylinder. The tape is a measurement of 22mm from the end of the tube. This is the distance to be inserted for them to be the same as the original ones (wich equates to 7.5mm on the klong side & 3.5mm on the short side when fully home.




Mmmmmmm fresh batch of cylinders - I see now why SB advises to soak & wash with soapy water beforehand. Ummm You know when they saw 250 degrees in theStates it's really only 120ish over here



Believe it or not Mrs Padmei didn't like the way the whole oven started smoking with noxious fumes

OK here's the stressful bit.
I grabbed the cylinder with oven mitts, making sure I didn't knock the kids over on the way out the door I had to get my smooth soled shoes on & run across the wet slippery deck, down the outside stairs, past the obstacle course of engine parts scattered around the workshop & drop the cylinder on the workbench.
Got the gas torch fired up & pointed at the cylinders to keep them hot.
Got a frozen tube out of the freezer, inserted front axle as a mandrill into end & "slide the tube in with the help of a hammer" OK got a rubber hammer & thinking the tube would "slide" gave a few taps.

Nothing - wasn't even looking at sliding in. Put that tube back into the freezer & did another measure. Hmmm pretty fricking tight my friends.
Fresh polartube out of the freezer, mandrill in, a few sharp taps with my engineers hammer & we're away. A few hurried measurements found I wasn't in 1mm enough so gave a couple more taps - nup no more movement, that ship has sailed. I was merely reaming out the end of the tube.

I stood back for a moment & looked. Ok I know now to go a bit quicker & bit more careful.





The cylinder actually kept its' heat quite well.



Another polar tube, tap tap & we're all good. The same again with the other cylinder & we're finished.
All in all a good job. Three of the tubes are sitting at 7.5mm with the 1st one at 8.5mm into the cylinder - not a biggie but I would have liked to get them all the same.
I have to cut a couple of mm off two tubes as they have enlarged openings but after looking at how they sit in the case with the rubber seals around them I'm not too concerned.




Would I do them again? Well probably not, but since I had them there I thought I'd give them a go. While doing the job I was worried about the cylinders cooling down too fast, however with the torch going they stayed very hot. I would be a bit more relaxed next time & probably get a mandrill made up that wasn't tapered like the axle. However if it didn't enlargen the end of the tube it may have folded it another way - who knows?

Now if anyone is reading this & has done the rubber seals before- silicon gasket stuff in with them????
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Old 08-11-2012, 11:34 PM   #1055
Voltaire
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Is the rebuild being sponsored by CRC?
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:13 AM   #1056
igormortis
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Ive only done seals a few times - but have stuck with the little-smear-of-engine-oil-on-them school of thought. Ive had no problems with that.
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:23 AM   #1057
innathyzit
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Again, the salad fork!!!! What is it with the salad fork???? Why did you line it up exactly in the middle of the barrels???
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Old 08-12-2012, 01:41 AM   #1058
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Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
Again, the salad fork!!!! What is it with the salad fork???? Why did you line it up exactly in the middle of the barrels???

Woodman Stop & listen to me - looking with your eyes listening with your ears - THE SALAD FORK IS NOT AFTER YOU. It is simply a ktchen utensil used occasionally for purposes I can't disclose on a public forum .

Take your meds for Godssake.

Did you notice the white bread in the freezer - no? Well it saw you
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:00 AM   #1059
Oaters
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Thumb I salute you Padmei

you're certainly willing to give anything a go with that airhead of yours - I'm impressed!
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:39 AM   #1060
Padmei OP
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you're certainly willing to give anything a go with that airhead of yours - I'm impressed!

Hey Aslan you good man. Nice to know you still poke our head in from time to time.
Thanks for your kind words. It is a really good learning experience & a great way to escape from the outside world etc. The only problem is that there is usually many different ways of doing things & theories behind them. Sometimes I have to just drop the shoulder & barge on thru sometimes or I'll be left in a stagnant state of indecision.

I hope your shoulder has healed.
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Old 08-13-2012, 02:54 AM   #1061
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Originally Posted by innathyzit View Post
A valve a couple of mm larger head size will not effect flow or anything, might even improve it. Generally they will machine a 70 degree angle in the throat to set the id of the seat then the 45degree seat then a 30 degree after that to set the od of the seat. If they can find a valve long enough then it is relatively easy to machine a collet groove into it (depending on the type of collet) and re hardening the tip. That way you can use the original rotor cap, otherwise use another rotor cap and collets to suit the valve. The BMW valves etc are similar specs to cars so substitutes shouldn't be too hard to find. You won't need to replace the seat.

The engine shop I took the benelli stuff to does a lot of old bike stuff and have some really nice gear. Tad pricey but then I own a KLR

Thanks Woodman for that. I will take the heads down to Aimex at the port & get them to see what I should do. I have been researching valves tonite & have got my head around them. It's funny that the exhaust valves should be the ones that go first with the extra heat however the inlets on Berlinas & Schmidts have gone wit the exhaust looking quite good. My mech reckons the carbon from the exhaust cushions the valve on closing however I haven't heard any of the experts repeat that.
As usual I feel I should be going further & replacing the guides, etc however no matter what I do there'll always be something extra to be done.
If I had the money I'd get the heads properly reconditioned, the engine media blasted & frame powdercoated white.
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Old 08-13-2012, 03:27 AM   #1062
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
As usual I feel I should be going further & replacing the guides, etc however no matter what I do there'll always be something extra to be done. If I had the money I'd get the heads properly reconditioned, the engine media blasted & frame powdercoated white.
Yup, I know exactly how that goes. If I could just do this. If I just spent a little more money to do this. But then, having spent it...

I feel as if I have spent the last few weeks undoing all the tweaks I thought would improve things since April. Exhaust - gone. Choke eliminators - gone. Centrestand - replaced. Sidestand - back to stock. Well that whole saga was a learning experience.

You are doing a good & thorough job. But the guides probably do need (at least) looking at if you are doing the valves & seats, just because those components go together as an assembly.
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Old 08-13-2012, 11:51 AM   #1063
Voltaire
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+1 on doing the guides, did you know you can reline guides, 8mm is fairly standard, guides are drilled to around 9 mm, reamed then a liner is inserted and a mandrel pulled thru to seat them.....of course SS would not approve....
worn guides mean the valve does not seat correctly and you get that rounding off effect, poor sealing, poor heat transfer ....those little suckers work hard.
If you don't do it to save a few bucks you will forever be listening/wondering if today is the day a valve head falls off....
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Old 08-13-2012, 12:59 PM   #1064
Padmei OP
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+1 on doing the guides, did you know you can reline guides, 8mm is fairly standard, guides are drilled to around 9 mm, reamed then a liner is inserted and a mandrel pulled thru to seat them.....of course SS would not approve....
worn guides mean the valve does not seat correctly and you get that rounding off effect, poor sealing, poor heat transfer ....those little suckers work hard.
If you don't do it to save a few bucks you will forever be listening/wondering if today is the day a valve head falls off....

Ok I will talk to them about it.

I haven't really been doing a thorough job as I haven't had the pistons & barrels measured yet. I am doing the ostrich thing as I don't really want to know if they are on their way out as I can see my funds diminishing. Luckily most of the parts so far are actually pretty cheap however there are quite a lot of them.

Once I've done this bit tho the bike will have had most of the workings done.
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Old 08-13-2012, 01:56 PM   #1065
igormortis
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Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
Choke eliminators - gone. Centrestand - replaced. Sidestand - back to stock.
For good? Tell me about your sidestand and choke eliminators - things that are about to happen on mine!
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