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Old 02-08-2015, 06:25 PM   #1
DirtyWarthog OP
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Triangular Top Engine Brackets for KLR 650

Hi

This is a bit of a long shot but when I stripped down the Head on my 1989 KLR 650 I found both of the triangular Engine Top Support brackets had cracked and broken. The official part number is (32029a engine bracket).

Does anyone know if there is a slightly heavier duty version out there as these brackets seem prone to failure.

I am happy to pay for a stronger version.
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Old 02-08-2015, 08:28 PM   #2
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I've never heard of one cracking before.... somtin ain't right

replace them with stock & make sure all the bolts are tight

the klr isn't that viby of a bike if its set up right. set the valves, do the 22 cent mod. better yet if you 685 it (need a post 96 cylinder though)

however, the pre'96 bikes have damper springs in the counter balance gears. if those fall out due to wear then you'll get more vibes, and it's only a matter of time on that one. also if someone has assembled the system incorrectly that will do it too. as for the balancer weights, the new style are a direct fit & can be had on ebay for as cheap as 10 bucks a piece (need 2).

good idea to put in the doo lever and torsion spring if it hasn't been done too
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if I'm answering your question, I assume all the obvious points have been addressed, such as " did you do a compression check?" and "is it still on fire?"

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Old 02-08-2015, 08:41 PM   #3
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if you look at the parts breakout for your bike you will see the old style gears. this is the new solid style drive gear and balancer with no springs. parts 13164 and 12046

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Old 02-09-2015, 04:06 AM   #4
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torque wrench

I've seen more parts fatigued and/or breakage due to fasteners being overly tightened. Get a decent torque wrench and a shop manual and torque the bolts to proper specs on engine mounts and I think you'll see the breakage eliminated as long as everything else is in alignment. Re-torque and engine mounts to specs while you're at it. Wardie
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Old 02-09-2015, 07:45 AM   #5
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Amazing feedback...thanks Guys.

I was surprised to find both had fatigue cracked. I don't think that the engine has ever been dismantled and is as it came from the factory.
However, something caused both brackets to crack and ultimately fail. Bearing in mind that it is an older motorcycle with 15K on it I suppose that it is reasonable that parts will show their weaknesses.
These brackets are only 1/8 mild steel and have little or no flex in them. I am considering making replacements out of 3/16 steel or fabricating replacements with some flexible component to them.

I wouldn't say that the engine vibrated any worse than you would expect from a single cylinder 650 even with the top mounting brackets broken.

It is surprising that the cylinder head is "hard mounted" to the upper frame with no rubber mounting though.

Anyway, thanks for the very welcomed replies!
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Old 02-09-2015, 11:54 AM   #6
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if the engine has never been apart as you say, then the original balancer lever & spring (doohicky) is still in there (part numbers 13268 and 92144)... those need to go. I've replaced close to 50 of them... at least half were either broken or not functioning. since the Gen II bikes came out the number of KLR tech days has steadily gone down, so I don't do so many anymore. the Gen II lever is better but the spring is too long. theres more, but it don't matter... it's a truly piss poor design. the best fix available is the Eagle Mike lever and torsion spring. I've seen a few engines suck broken spring & lever bits into the drive chain & cause damage. a good friend of mine had his rear wheel lock up at highway speed from this. his was the first bike I found broken damper springs in too. lowest mile bike I found with broke doo spring was an 04.... it had 1200 miles since new

the KLR community is huge & helpful. go over to klr650.net and see if you can find a tech day near you. someone will probably offer to help, or at lest loan the special tools needed for the job

again... I've worked on hundreds of KLRS... never seen a broken upper bracket
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Old 02-18-2015, 10:42 PM   #7
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I did the Doohicky a few years back but I suspect the brackets had fatigue fractured prior to me changing the doohicky judging by the rust on the fracture lines.
Fact is the KLR is 26 years old but has only done 15K miles.
I suppose the top of the engine is a major stress point where the vibration is magnified.
BTW good point about torquing the bolts properly.
I plan to make new brackets from a slightly thicker 1/8 steel as the originals do seem a little flimsy.
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Old 02-19-2015, 05:53 AM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DirtyWarthog View Post
I plan to make new brackets from a slightly thicker 1/8 steel as the originals do seem a little flimsy.
Suit yourself, DW! Your bike, after all. However . . . what is the stock bracket failure history of occurrence, in over 25 years of KLRdom?

While once is more than enough, probability may suggest adequate reliability and durability is available from OEM bracket replacement, IMHO; YMMV!
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Old 02-19-2015, 06:54 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by XDragRacer View Post
Suit yourself, DW! Your bike, after all. However . . . what is the stock bracket failure history of occurrence, in over 25 years of KLRdom?

While once is more than enough, probability may suggest adequate reliability and durability is available from OEM bracket replacement, IMHO; YMMV!

Hey, now. Brackets cost money, making brackets is free. Kinda like finding a milk crate, don'tcha know.
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Old 02-19-2015, 07:16 AM   #10
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Hey, now. Brackets cost money, making brackets is free. Kinda like finding a milk crate, don'tcha know.
Touché, Kawidad, touché!

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Old 02-19-2015, 09:51 AM   #11
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I often make custom parts and a triangular bracket is easy Often items are made by or for the Manufacturer with cheapness and ease of assembly in mind and are therefore not made of the best materials. With a little effort, better parts can be fabricated by yourself.

Case in point, the wiring harnesses are a prime example with push together connectors for ease of manufacture but are prone to water ingress. All the exposed connections on my KLR are soldered with a heat shrink tube over the top and sealed. The result is that there are no weak links in the electrical system. Sure I will have to de-solder these if I ever have to replace anything but for me the benefits outweigh the inconvenience.

But, having said that, to each their own.

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Old 02-19-2015, 10:25 AM   #12
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If I had the skill, I would make my own brackets and add a rubber bushing if I thought it would help and not hurt anything.
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Old 02-19-2015, 02:15 PM   #13
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Yes, I too thought of that but there is not a lot of space for much in the way of rubber damping. To be honest, I was surprised to find a top mount at all as it is not common practice on a motorcycle engine.
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Old 02-20-2015, 07:04 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by DirtyWarthog View Post
Yes, I too thought of that but there is not a lot of space for much in the way of rubber damping. To be honest, I was surprised to find a top mount at all as it is not common practice on a motorcycle engine.

I was joking around about the milk crate.

Anyway, I will have to disagree, having an upper engine mount is common and found on many different bikes. I'm no engineer, but I believe they do that to help integrate the engine into the frame for added strength, ala, stressed member construction.
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