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Old 08-26-2010, 02:31 AM   #16
Box'a'bits OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei
It'll be interesting to see what happens when I replace my perished boot.

Are you using a manual & if so what one? i have the BMW one but more often I start taking things apart then look at it to see if there's something I've missed.

I will try to get mine back on the road when I locate a couple of brake pistons & then look at dropping the box & greasing the splines.

When you checked your driveshaft bearing, you just gave it a looksie & rolled it round checking for roughness? This all that's needed to check them out or is there a more extensive check?

I wish a certain PD owner would just hand out all his extra bits to his mates
I've had a Clymers manual for 20 odd years. Covers bikes up to 1989... It's good, & I'd recommend. I use it mostly for tolerances & torque settings though. I've had 2 Haynes manuals which came with the other bikes, & I've sold them shortly after getting them. Not so good. You can get into an online parts fiche at Max BMW, which is good for looking at exploded views, but is occassionally inaccurate.

The interweb thingy is getting good too. That is one thing I enjoyed with the KTM. The LC4 Index is fairly comprehensive. We also have a lot of info for airheads, but its more spread about. Just do a google search.

Not worried about oil in the drive shaft boot unless its pissing out. The RS runs 150 mls of oil in there, and it keeps the bearings in good nick. The GS is supposed to be dry but... all of them push oil into the shaft if the gearbox gets pressurised - usually via hot/ cold cycles (hence the breather in the bolt that holds the speedo cable). Often the oil migration happens when dirt blocks the breather. BTW thats how water gets in too.

The driveshaft inspection is purely to check for smooth operation & any apparent issues. You can't do anymore. Rebuild of the driveshaft is a specialist operation. Cost Barrie a grand (?) to replace his. I'm not going to inspect the final drive spline this time around. Need to get the bike on the road this weekend, & it probably would be good to do a run before the Kiwi (to make sure there are no surprises waiting that I don't already know about).

Eddie's v.kindly offered the PD if Gus isn't ready for the Kiwi, & if he hasn't already sold it. But I'm sure he'd notice if it came back with parts missing....
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 08-26-2010 at 03:39 AM
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:28 PM   #17
Eddieb
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT
Yes that would be cool. I'm going up Saturday, so 8.00am at the Waikanae Coffee Cart? I haven't made any choices re route yet.

I think Eddie's going up Friday, and intends to do a more relaxed run, over more varied roads...
Yes I will be going up Friday, though it won't be a relaxed run. I'll do one of the gravel routes from around Marton up and won't be mucking around too much. You can't be too late to get a good spot, even on Friday.
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Old 08-26-2010, 01:31 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei
I've read a lot of posts about finding oil in the boot - Eddie did too I think?
I found some oil in my boot when I replaced it, though it was very little. Certainly not pools of it, not more than a few ml.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tight ar*e KLR owner
I wish a certain PD owner would just hand out all his extra bits to his mates
Haha. I've had a few offers for individual bits.
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Old 08-28-2010, 12:56 AM   #19
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Cool thread. Good luck with the build. Airheads are a lot of fun to work on. Just watch out for scope creep......

I'll have to register the 80 again and take it for a run. Keeping all these vehicles is starting to become expensive, so the R80 will be a 6 month bike now, except for emergencies.
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Old 08-29-2010, 06:36 PM   #20
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Did you get the bike ready for Saturday?
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Old 08-29-2010, 10:39 PM   #21
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When last we left our intrepid hero... I was about to drop the gearbox. Now I may have been a little premature in cursing Rob. Certainly the oil did have a little water in it, and it was red, but in the cold light of the next day it was thicker than I initially thought.

Gearbox came out fine, disconnected the clutch cable & arm, disconnected the gearchange linkage, dropped the two bolts at the bottom side, slid it backwards, & put it aside for a later clean up. While it was out replaced the neautral switch, which is fairly inaccessible when the gearbox is in place (sits between the engine sump & the bottom of the gearbox). I suspect that this was not working because it sits at the lower point of the g/box, & was water contaminated.

The clutch housing was dirty but oil free (good). (By the way the photo is after cleaning & reassembly). The splines looked good, & not dry. Prior to disassembly I found TDC, & marked the pressure plate, clutch etc so that it could go back together as a balanced assembly. Un-did the six allen headed bolts holding the clutch together. Surprisingly didn't need any 'clutch let down tool'. If this was needed I was going to use a longer bolt with a nut screwed part way on, to let the tension off. The outer pressure plate looks scorched (?) - maybe a bit of slipping in the recent past?. Ignore the pink nail polish which has ended up on the plate


The clutch plate is wearing in a taper to the outside (5.75mm inner, 5.25mm outer) & it is starting to break up around the rivets. Wear limits are quoted at a number of different place at at number of different sizes, so difficult to tell if this is totally shot, but it will be replaced in the near future because of the taper & the breakup.


Reinstalled the clutch, given I need the bike this weekend. I have a clutch alignment tool, which makes this easy. Basically this fits through the clutch splines & holds everything in place while you tighten the allen headed bolts.

While gearbox was out, I took the opportunity to drive out the rear engine mount (supported the engine with a jack to take the pressure off this), clean the bolt up, lube it & push this back in. These have a habit of corroding in place. Also took out the alloy spacer which sits under the gearbox, & did the same.

Cleaned up & lubed the gearbox change linkages. One o'ring on the linkage needs replacement (holds the grease inside the pivot bushing).


Cleaned up the clutch pivot arm (note bearing no for future reference, as the inner race is pitted).


I also opted to do an engine oil & filter change. The oil was fairly black. Given all the recent discussion re the $2k o'ring, I check the canister depth. This was 3.5mm, so using Anton Largiers calculation, I used a shim when I buttoned everthing back together (the bike didn't have one, but I've a few spares here & there). Shim in 1st, then the white o'ring, no gasket. As I noted earlier I have ridden airheads 20 some odd years & this is the 1st time I've taken any notice of this.

Pinched the magnetic drain plug from the RS for the gearbox. This is so I can keep an eye out for damage. Replaced the oil with Castrol 80/90. Reinstalled the gearbox. Note to self, need to get another magnetic drainplug to replace the RS's.

I also swiped the oil cooler of the RS to measure this against the GS, in the hope that I could use this to relocate the oil cooler from the crashbar. Unfortunately noted that: 1. In the Touratech kit the oil cooler sits one brace up from the RS, and; 2. As a consequence, the oil lines are too short. Also note that you cannot just bring the cooler down to the bottom brace, because the mudguard won't allow this, & if you use the GS frame mounted fairing then the cooler will foul the kangaroo bars. The top brace has a centre tube going back into the main frame that would mean the cooler wouldn't be centred. Might has to rethink this.

Stretched a new gearbox output / driveshaft boot over the swingarm before reinstalling the swingarm. Before reinstalling I had cleaned up the swingarm pivots, & bearings. Then reinstalled the swingarm, made sure that the gap between frame & swingarm was even (circa 7mm), & torqued the pivots up to spec. The box spanner is useful for allowing the lock nut to be tightened initially, while the allen key holds the pivot. Once this is tight, then you can torque the nut.


Tightened the 4 drive shaft bolts with the 12 point 10mm /12 mm BMW spanner & a bit of leverage. I loctited but didn't replace given I'll be back in there in the next few weeks.

By supported the swingarm horizontally, the driveshaft boot fit on 'more easily'.


Decided to embark on installing the right side touratech pannier frame, to finish the weekends work off. Both sides needed a little massaging to fit properly. Initially I was a little disappointed with them. The KTM racks were mostly tubing. The BMW ones use flat straps to connect to the footpegs & bottom of the sub frame. However now they are installed I can see better how these will work, & I've changed my mind (more positive). I've already got aluminium boxes from the KTM.


The Postie brought more presents today (Monday 30th Aug). Tonight's jobs was filing knurls off some new bars.


BMW bars are slight smaller than most other manufacturers. Their clutch & brake perches can be a bit brittle if you attempt to spread them to make them fit. I've pretty much got it done now, but it's been a frustrating night......

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S
Did you get the bike ready for Saturday?
Most of the big bits are back in place. A few issues to resolve yet. But I should be good for Saturday.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokopelli
Just watch out for scope creep......
Alex, I'm already there....

Steve
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 08-31-2010 at 12:06 AM
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:21 PM   #22
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You can have that clutch reconditioned. Seems to work well and is relatively cheap.
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Old 08-31-2010, 10:32 PM   #23
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Great progress Steve. I am looking on with interest & appreciating all the little details & tips for when I come to pull mine out for a looksie.
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Old 08-31-2010, 11:46 PM   #24
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Excellent thread Steve - I'm impressed - onya!
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Old 09-01-2010, 12:09 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kokopelli
You can have that clutch reconditioned. Seems to work well and is relatively cheap.
Good to know Alex. Did you get that done at a Brake & Clutch place or was there a specialist? I've an oil fouled one lying around here from the R65. Never sure if those places just replace with new parts or make their own...

Knew that I was right never to throw used bike bits away!!

Also have you ever had the rear brakes shoes re-done? Over on Advrider I read that the stock shoes are way too hard, & that is the actual issue re the poor rear brake. It might be worth an experiment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei
Great progress Steve. I am looking on with interest & appreciating all the little details & tips for when I come to pull mine out for a looksie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Aslan
Excellent thread Steve - I'm impressed - onya!
Padmei & Aslan, good to have feedback. Makes a worthwhile boost to recording these details...
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 09-01-2010 at 12:16 AM
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Old 09-01-2010, 12:58 AM   #26
Mark_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT
Padmei & Aslan, good to have feedback. Makes a worthwhile boost to recording these details...
stop typing and get working

you are my excuse to get away from some big family gatherings this weekend
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:07 AM   #27
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stop typing and get working

you are my excuse to get away from some big family gatherings this weekend
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:47 AM   #28
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http://www.autoclutch.co.nz/

These guys did mine. I am sure they can do drum brakes as well.

If you do end up using someone like them, you'll need to punch mark the components, as they will bead blast the parts as well. My marks were gone, not that it made a difference.

$170





However, this clutch is not currently in the bike. I had thought there was a problem with it and swapped it out. Turned out that the problem was elsewhere, but couldn't be bothered to swap it back in again.
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Kokopelli screwed with this post 09-01-2010 at 01:54 AM
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Old 09-02-2010, 01:22 PM   #29
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so what's happening????

have you got that piece of Bavarian refuse ready to ride or what?









BTW - if its pissing down tomorrow morning I'm staying in bed
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Old 09-02-2010, 05:35 PM   #30
Box'a'bits OP
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Originally Posted by Mark_S
So what's happening???? Have you got that precision piece of quality Bavarian engineering ready to ride or what?
Haven't fired it up yet. Still a bit of wiring to do to keep my pinkies warm. Quietly confident (or panicking dependent on whether you're talking to me or Mandy).

Will knock off work early so that I can sort that. Nothing like leaving things to the last minute.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S
BTW - if its pissing down tomorrow morning I'm staying in bed
Pussy. I'll be round to roust you out.. What' your address again?
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