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Old 09-12-2010, 03:41 AM   #61
Box'a'bits OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S
won't the lack of wind/weather protection be a big negative?
If I go down that route (which is not yet decided), I'm likely to put a little screen on.

The big advantage of dropping the existing fairing is weight drop, & potential improvement to crash 'survivability'. Plus I would expect to be able to flog the surplus bits off, which would help me do other things...

Good to see your posting up in the 'Diary' BTW.
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Old 09-12-2010, 01:19 PM   #62
NordieBoy
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Easy enough to do a fairing on a round headlight.
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Old 09-13-2010, 01:01 AM   #63
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
Easy enough to do a fairing on a round headlight.
Yep, I keep looking at your DR & thinking that's a really great set up.
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:49 AM   #64
Padmei
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When you get a chance could you post up a pic of your bash plate? It looks to be better than my pie tray one & will look at making one up at a later stage.
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Old 09-14-2010, 02:39 AM   #65
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So that tank on yet Steve? It's gonna make mine look like a h-ferguson peanut tank methinks.
Hey Padmei, pm me your email and i can send some pics of mine if you want, f..ked if i can post any on here.....
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Old 09-14-2010, 12:54 PM   #66
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Thanks Guzitony PM sent.
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Old 09-15-2010, 03:10 AM   #67
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One step forward, two back

Okay, so removed the fairing. The trick is to go at it in a methodical manner, and don't try to remove it all in one go. Too much wiring hiding in there that you can't see to uncouple.

The fairing panels come off in this order - screen, side panels (see photo), undo speedo & tacho (knurled nuts hold them one like accessory dash gauges). Then remove the wiring, then the two allen head bolts holding the stay to the headstock, then the bottom roo bar holders. Course that's not how I did it, but the wisdom of hindsight.



The wiring for the ignition is connected back at the frame spine (the black plug with ears).


Thank god that bugger is off. However this has exposed the rusty fork stauntions tops. Some has polished out but there is some pitting I'll need to do something with. Purely cosmetic.

Padmei, here's Rob's version of a bashplate. The plate gives some protection to the headers. In common with most BMW B/plates, this one bolts onto the sump. I'm going to countersink the bolts, with a wider head to spread the load a bit. There's 4 spacers which the bolts go through, between the plate & the bottom of the sump. You can just see one in the 2nd photo.

You might also want to look at the stock PD B/plate, Touratech item, & also Twin Headlight Ernie's (a vendor here). THE's version is probably the best of them.



Actually the most vulnerable area is the collector box. Mine is v.strong, but has been well beaten, & you can see where it has been driven onto the frame from a top down view. Need to fit a plate to the main stand, ala Touratech & others.



Now the fairing is out of the way I can do a 'test' fit of the tank (already knowing that it won't fit). I'll need to move some electrics (the grip controller & Enduralast regulator I've just fitted) & the oil cooler. And I need to chop the seat base up a little.



Finally, I've also tonight ordered the Baja Designs 8" race light & H4 conversion. Heres Airhead Wranglers Baja light set up. Note 'on the fly' adjustment at the top. I've ordered (separately) an H4 conversion - otherwise the race light is single beam.



I'll need to run an electronic speedo with this, but for an interim period this'll be a cycle computer. It will also mean in the short to medium term I can deal to the gearbox vent (re-route this to the airbox).

So I guess that means the existing GS fairing & clocks are available for sale if anyone decides that they want them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzitony
So that tank on yet Steve? It's gonna make mine look like a h-ferguson peanut tank methinks.
I thought yours was 40l - not small by any stretch...
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Old 09-15-2010, 10:24 PM   #68
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haha thats wot they all say.............

Mossrax in behind maccas on the basin reserve can make up legal braided stuff and not too dear.
I've got a standard seat ifyour cutting yours up if you need to borrow it at any stage. just as long as its not an adv ride i want my small tank as well then we'd have to fight for it.




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Old 09-15-2010, 10:36 PM   #69
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Quote:
Originally Posted by guzzitony
Mossrax in behind maccas on the basin reserve can make up legal braided stuff and not too dear.
I've got a standard seat if your cutting yours up if you need to borrow it at any stage. Just as long as its not an adv ride i want my small tank as well then we'd have to fight for it.
Took the day off today & was in to see Mossrax today (as it happens), to get the brake line made up.

Also to Dynaflow to get some longer oil cooler lines made up, so I can move the cooler away from the crashbar & into the centre of the frame. I took my RS cooler in to show them what I wanted (+9cm) & the buggers misunderstood what I wanted to do, & cut the lines up!!!. But they are making good.

Thanks for the offer of a loan of your seat. I'll likely do some temp 'adjustments' to my seat, & ride with those for a while. We should be all good (hopefully).
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:53 AM   #70
Padmei
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OK tell me what I overpaid for my brake line
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Old 09-16-2010, 12:58 AM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei
OK tell me what I overpaid for my brake line
You got royally screwed, infact..... you'll probly be walking funny for the next 2 weeks

Sorry.. I'll get me coat....
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:32 AM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ztaj
You got royally screwed, infact..... you'll probly be walking funny for the next 2 weeks
Sorry.. I'll get me coat....
You paid about a 25% surcharge for the 'convenience' of a made up hose. But wait, there's more! Did you get to chose the colour & the type of fittings used?
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 11-11-2011 at 04:16 PM
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Old 09-16-2010, 01:38 AM   #73
Padmei
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Thanks for the rundown Steve re the fairing. That headlite/tank combo will be the bizness.
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Old 09-18-2010, 03:07 AM   #74
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Of Brake Hoses & Oil Coolers on Cold Days

Fitted the newly Dynaflow oil cooler hoses to the GS Oil cooler. The old hoses were quite corroded onto the cooler, & I was concerned that I would bend or split the cooler trying to take the old hoses. off. Eventually shifted them with patience & a blow torch.



The new hoses are slightly too long, and because Dynaflow put the RS fitting on, I needed bend them somewhat to get clearance on the exhaust. I ended up dropping the right crashbar to make access better. I'll put that back on later. With luck (or any other forms of assistance I can tap into ) on my side they won't leak....because a new cooler is GBP 114 + freight, and I'd rather not have to spend that at present.

The RS bracket has been used short term to allow the cooler to fit the frame brace. The RS & GS oil coolers are different. RS coolers hang from the top of the cooler. GS's are bottom mounted. When I was using the RS to test fit this I wasn't aware of this.



I will need to space out the front mudguard to clear the cooler. The medium term fix is a different guard (maybe Acerbis Baja- or something full of holes), because I will need to get better air flow back to the cooler to make it effective.

I have also fitted the new brake line to the new caliper, but await the adapter to complete this conversion. The caliper has been challenging to bleed. I haven't seen the pistons on the bleed nipple side move much yet, and I'm starting to wonder if I should have rebuilt them prior to putting them on the bike. Need to change the pads at least. Suspect they are a little oil contaminated. The other caliper ws much worse. I suspect that they are from different bikes.



Have the tank basically fitted. Still need to move the regulator to allow this to be centred. Here's a photo which shows the conflict between the seat & tank. I'll have a trim the seat somewhat to fit.

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Old 09-21-2010, 04:54 PM   #75
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Driveshaft

The driveshaft was $450, plus a thousand to get the gearbox overhauled. Cheers, Barrie W


Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT
I've had a Clymers manual for 20 odd years. Covers bikes up to 1989... It's good, & I'd recommend. I use it mostly for tolerances & torque settings though. I've had 2 Haynes manuals which came with the other bikes, & I've sold them shortly after getting them. Not so good. You can get into an online parts fiche at Max BMW, which is good for looking at exploded views, but is occassionally inaccurate.

The interweb thingy is getting good too. That is one thing I enjoyed with the KTM. The LC4 Index is fairly comprehensive. We also have a lot of info for airheads, but its more spread about. Just do a google search.

Not worried about oil in the drive shaft boot unless its pissing out. The RS runs 150 mls of oil in there, and it keeps the bearings in good nick. The GS is supposed to be dry but... all of them push oil into the shaft if the gearbox gets pressurised - usually via hot/ cold cycles (hence the breather in the bolt that holds the speedo cable). Often the oil migration happens when dirt blocks the breather. BTW thats how water gets in too.

The driveshaft inspection is purely to check for smooth operation & any apparent issues. You can't do anymore. Rebuild of the driveshaft is a specialist operation. Cost Barrie a grand (?) to replace his. I'm not going to inspect the final drive spline this time around. Need to get the bike on the road this weekend, & it probably would be good to do a run before the Kiwi (to make sure there are no surprises waiting that I don't already know about).

Eddie's v.kindly offered the PD if Gus isn't ready for the Kiwi, & if he hasn't already sold it. But I'm sure he'd notice if it came back with parts missing....
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