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Old 05-13-2012, 12:05 AM   #841
Mark_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
Feck, the age of Gus is starting to catch up with me.

The exhaust downpipes are stuffed. I am going to have to replace them with new downpipes.

The gearbox drain hole has previously been helicoiled & has stripped. It'll need a bigsert, a job for an engineer, or the case willl need to be replaced.

The right side head central rocker cover stud have previously been helicoiled & stripped when I got Gus. But I need a good stud to run the hardhead valve cover guards. Another Bigsert & a job for an engineer.
bummer
you're just a bit pissed that your farkle budget is being absorbed by these types of repairs that soak up money but don't make you feel like you are moving the bike ahead.

its those tired metal type problems that scare me away from older bikes.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:17 AM   #842
Padmei
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Originally Posted by igormortis View Post
I recall that they are around $950AUD
Frick me is that expensive to anyone else?

You can see why I shake my head at those using an airhead for a RTW bike. The way I see it you can spend as much on getting an airhead ready for a long oversea trip by replacing everything before you go as you would on a very well sorted modern bike (& not tlking about a fricking electronic GS/ Super Ten/ Triumph / Ducati thing I'm meaning a basic reliable DR or KLR/ Vstrom etc.
Those lovely looking rebuilds must end up costing over $20K at least. Still they are things of beauty

If I was braver i would like to get an old triumph & scramblerise it - but if I thought bmws were a pita sometimes I can only imagine what a British bike must be like.

Nutso can you remind me what else I need to order for the pushrods tubes. i have seals & tubes but need head gaskets & orings for the top rockers? Do I need any for the bottom end of the pushrods? cheers

Padmei screwed with this post 05-13-2012 at 02:34 AM
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:43 AM   #843
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Cylinder base o-rings?
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:45 AM   #844
Padmei
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Cylinder base o-rings?
Yes are they the big ones or are they small ones. I will have a look at OEM parts diagram & see.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:48 AM   #845
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Nutso can you remind me what else I need to order for the pushrods tubes. I have seals & tubes but need head gaskets & orings for the top rockers? Do I need any for the bottom end of the pushrods? cheers
- Head Gaskets x 2
- Base Oring large x 2
- Base Oring small x 4 (goes in the top studs)
- Pushrod seals x 4
- Piston Gudgeon Pin circlip (technically x 4, but you can get away with 2)
- There is a tool to insert the pushrod tubes
- Heat source & some Freeze Spray - effectively liquid nitrogen (or use your freezer).
- Gasket goo of your choice. I used a light smear Loctite 518 on the base, but that was what I already had.
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Old 05-13-2012, 02:51 AM   #846
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[QUOTE=Padmei;18675427]Frick me is that expensive to anyone else?

You can see why I shake my head at those using an airhead for a RTW bike. The way I see it you can spend as much on getting an airhead ready for a long oversea trip by replacing everything before you go as you would on a very well sorted modern bike (& not tlking about a fricking electronic GS/ Super Ten/ Triumph / Ducati thing I'm meaning a basic reliable DR or KLR/ Vstrom etc.
Those lovely looking rebuilds must end up costing over $20K at least. Still they are things of beauty
/QUOTE]

And if they have a high value this adds to the cost of the carnet (bond) needed to take them in to many countries. Plus fuel economy is pretty poor, further adding to the expense, especially where fuel is costly. If I was motivated to do a long trip I suspect I would take my DR350, not the R80GS!
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:16 AM   #847
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S View Post
Bummer. you're just a bit pissed that your farkle budget is being absorbed by these types of repairs that soak up money but don't make you feel like you are moving the bike ahead.
Yes
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S View Post
its those tired metal type problems that scare me away from older bikes.
Actually its the inept previous owner issues that piss me off. The helicoils were originally necessary because someone overtightened those components. That could have been prevented with a torque wrench. The helicoils shouldn't fail like both of these have. They failed because they weren't done properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by msmckeon View Post
And if they have a high value this adds to the cost of the carnet (bond) needed to take them in to many countries. Plus fuel economy is pretty poor, further adding to the expense, especially where fuel is costly. If I was motivated to do a long trip I suspect I would take my DR350, not the R80GS! Michael
I disagree. Gus was a $3.5k bike. That's what would be used for the carnet.

In terms of a comfortable & relatively reliable platform to do lots of miles on, they are still up there. The engine is lowly stressed, & well engineered. Any issues are well known. 95% of the maintenance / diagnostics are pretty basic. Spares are fairly easy to get a hold of. Go back thru the thread. Modifications, fixing deferred maintenance, & ride reports are the majority. The only true breakdown has been the ICU.

Fuel economy - fair point. But at least they'll run on the weasel piss available in 3rd World Countries. Some more modern bikes might not. And the fuel economy is something that can be improved with a better ignition & higher compression ratio.
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:38 AM   #848
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
Yes

Actually its the inept previous owner issues that piss me off. The helicoils were originally necessary because someone overtightened those components. That could have been prevented with a torque wrench. The helicoils shouldn't fail like both of these have. They failed because they weren't done properly.

I disagree. Gus was a $3.5k bike. That's what would be used for the carnet.

In terms of a comfortable & relatively reliable platform to do lots of miles on, they are still up there. The engine is lowly stressed, & well engineered. Any issues are well known. 95% of the maintenance / diagnostics are pretty basic. Spares are fairly easy to get a hold of. Go back thru the thread. Modifications, fixing deferred maintenance, & ride reports are the majority. The only true breakdown has been the ICU.

Fuel economy - fair point. But at least they'll run on the weasel piss available in 3rd World Countries. Some more modern bikes might not. And the fuel economy is something that can be improved with a better ignition & higher compression ratio.
I have a love hate affair with my ol girl.I think she has been fairly well looked after but there are signs of neglect (or worse)It doesnt set the world on fire but a think a well maintained example would be hard to beat for a heavily loaded long distance camping touring rig,and be a relaxing ride at the same time.
My recurring electrical issue is back....but i love it when i can get out on it.it is the least reliable bike i have owned but also by far the oldest.
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Old 05-13-2012, 04:27 AM   #849
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
I shake my head at those using an airhead for a RTW bike. The way I see it you can spend as much on getting an airhead ready for a long oversea trip by replacing everything before you go as you would on a very well sorted modern bike
Yes, you can spend a lot of money...



But when I’m done, I’ll have exactly the bike I want, that I won’t hesitate to take anywhere.

I’ll know it inside-out, and it’ll carry me and my dearest wherever we want to go in relative comfort with everything we need to survive.

When it breaks - and it will, just like any bike will - I should be able to fix it or find someone who can. Parts are not rare or made from exotic materials.

It won’t be a desirable looking, modern posemobile, it won’t have obnoxious graphics or look aggressive. I don’t want any of those things in a bike that we will ride through poor countries on. It’s an old airhead, and will be valued as such at borders - regardless what I have spent on it.

Ultimately it probably isn’t a rational thing. There are other, sensible ways I could spend the money, yes. I will insist that it wouldn't be as engaging. It wouldn’t have the soul or the charm. It may be perverse, but some of us end up in a relationship with these machines. If you don’t get it, then I won’t ever convince you otherwise.
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Old 05-13-2012, 12:55 PM   #850
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Originally Posted by igormortis View Post

Ultimately it probably isn’t a rational thing. There are other, sensible ways I could spend the money, yes. I will insist that it wouldn't be as engaging. It wouldn’t have the soul or the charm. It may be perverse, but some of us end up in a relationship with these machines. If you don’t get it, then I won’t ever convince you otherwise.

Yep you prob nailed it with that paragraph. We must all share some original gene that causes this affliction.
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Old 05-14-2012, 01:48 AM   #851
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
- Head Gaskets x 2 partno 16300
- Base Oring large x 2 part no 40900 or 40910???
- Base Oring small x 4 (goes in the top studs) part no.41000

- Piston Gudgeon Pin circlip (technically x 4, but you can get away with 2) Part no 508880
- There is a tool to insert the pushrod tubes Did you use the front axle?

.

Hey Nutso can you do me a favour. Did you buy your stuff from motobins? if so can you fill in the part no.s for the ones I'm not sure of & check the others in case I got the wrong no.s

Many thanks. I am gettting some Hylomar blue & using the freezer.
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Old 05-14-2012, 02:28 AM   #852
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Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
Hey Nutso can you do me a favour. Did you buy your stuff from motobins? if so can you fill in the part no.s for the ones I'm not sure of & check the others in case I got the wrong no.s

Many thanks. I am gettting some Hylomar blue & using the freezer.
Yup, all from Motobins. Actually I've been finding them generally cheaper than Motorworks recently. And Motorworks is starting to get slated for using pattern parts in place of genuine, & not stating that (witness some gearbox output rubbers).

Hylomar Blue is the recommended sealant

Quote:
Originally Posted by Box'a'bits View Post
- Head Gaskets x 2 (16300)
- Base Oring large x 2 (40900)
- Base Oring small x 4 (goes in the top studs) (41000)
- Pushrod seals x 4
- Piston Gudgeon Pin circlip (technically x 4, but you can get away with 2) (50880)
- There is a tool to insert the pushrod tubes
- Heat source & some Freeze Spray - effectively liquid nitrogen (or use your freezer).
- Gasket goo of your choice. I used a light smear Loctite 518 on the base, but that was what I already had.
I didn't replace the circlips. Hopefully my motor won't destroy itself..
I haven't replaced the pushrod tubes - for me that's cosmetics, at least until such time as they start leaking because of rust...
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Old 05-25-2012, 06:53 AM   #853
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Hopefully the exhaust issue is sorted. Won a stainless 2 into 2 exhaust on Fleabay - just have to get it here now.

Next up is the gear box.

Tommorrow I might start getting the RS together... perhaps
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:15 PM   #854
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Are you going to do the gearbox yourself?
I pulled a post 81 apart one last year for my race bike but some of the gears were rusted.I was looking at the 5% higher ratio option too. Some of the bearings are standard but there are some that are BMW specific..
Its in boxes at the moment.....I'd like to have a go at doing it. I might clean it all up and take some pics for inspiration.
MaxHeadroom ( R90s owner) is pretty good on these....he is however snowed under with work.
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Old 05-25-2012, 01:34 PM   #855
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Are you going to do the gearbox yourself?
Nope, enough issues w/i the gearbox that I'll order parts in, then get someone else to do the work for me. Or I'll look for a good 2nd hand box & put the current one to one side for a bit.
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