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Old 09-27-2010, 11:54 PM   #91
Eddieb
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Cool!! looking forward to seeing the final product.
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Old 09-28-2010, 12:51 AM   #92
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei
Thanks for the pics of the bash plate. Those new bits look fantastically fancy sigh...
Sell the KLR!. What do you need it for now you've converted to the BMW fold? Then you'll be able to do what I have...After all what you're seeing is an optical illusion. It's not really a BMW - its my KTM 640a!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei
It'll be interesting to see how the Baja is fastened on. Whats the other lite for? Are you gonna swap the baja lite for the other one or something? wait let me guess - the original baja is right angled & the other one is left??
The pegs on the light frame slot into the receivers that are 'jubilee clipped' to the fork stantions. The receivers are the black rectangular bits on the right side of the photo. They are precurved to match the fork legs. There is an e-clip to hold that in place. Remember this is set up as a race light. All will become clear as I put this together.

The spare light is the H4 conversion. Unfortunately I can't use the 8" race light legally here. It doesn't dip at all!! Its real impressive in the flesh though

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddieb
Cool!! looking forward to seeing the final product.
No more than I... As I said earlier, having bought all of this stuff, the challenge is now to make it all work together.


Here's the standard shock painted yellow to look like an Ohlins set up. The frame needs to be ground down to fit.



I didn't actually file it down. Too lazy. Angle grinders are much more fun...

Et Voila, the real deal.

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Old 09-28-2010, 01:24 AM   #93
advNZer?
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wow impressive work mate.
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:17 PM   #94
clintnz
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT

The spare light is the H4 conversion. Unfortunately I can't use the 8" race light legally here. It doesn't dip at all!! Its real impressive in the flesh though
Cool stuff! Would it be possible to run the 8" race light as high beam with a lil supercheap driving light next to it as your dip beam? I spose switching to dip could be a bit scary though...

I've often toyed with the idea of setting up a bigger light on the 640 as the stocker is crap, but I don't really do enough night riding to justify the extra weight.

Cheers
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Old 09-28-2010, 01:51 PM   #95
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by clintnz
Cool stuff! Would it be possible to run the 8" race light as high beam with a lil supercheap driving light next to it as your dip beam? I spose switching to dip could be a bit scary though...

I've often toyed with the idea of setting up a bigger light on the 640 as the stocker is crap, but I don't really do enough night riding to justify the extra weight.

Cheers
Clint
I'm tempted to do a "night light" HID H3 type 4" or so round light.
Make it removable and it'd be sweet.


For "night light" read "galvanic lucifer" for those that read Neal Stephenson
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Old 09-28-2010, 04:47 PM   #96
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ClintNZ
Cool stuff! Would it be possible to run the 8" race light as high beam with a lil supercheap driving light next to it as your dip beam? I spose switching to dip could be a bit scary though...
Cheers, Clint
Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
I'm tempted to do a "night light" HID H3 type 4" or so round light. Make it removable and it'd be sweet. For "night light" read "galvanic lucifer" for those that read Neal Stephenson
I was negotiating with someone in the US for a used version of these lights with a 55w HID Hi / Low. But when he eventually got around to pricing discussion, he wanted USD 525 for it (he started at USD 550, & dropped USD25 as a negotiating ploy).

Also, it wouldn't have been e-marked, and then there was an issue re bulb replacement if that ever went south. Finally, HID have a delay before they fire. Imagine switching between Low/ Hi & having a delay in the lights coming on.

The H4 won't be as cool, but is likely more practical. Don't really want to add another light.

One other issue that's become apparent is that the receivers is 15.5 cm long - but the gap between the triple clamps are 15.0cm. So I either need to machine down a groove to match in the receivers, or maybe space out the triple clamps more (spacer between the bearing & triple).
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Old 09-28-2010, 05:06 PM   #97
NordieBoy
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I've got an H4 hi/low HID kit here.
When it goes onto high a solenoid pulls the bulb back so the arc is where the high beam filament is. No delay.
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:02 PM   #98
Box'a'bits OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NordieBoy
I've got an H4 hi/low HID kit here.
When it goes onto high a solenoid pulls the bulb back so the arc is where the high beam filament is. No delay.
No that wasn't what was being offered. He was offering Hi / Low in one bulb, no moving parts. There were separate slimline ballasts etc. Unsure as to how he achieved that (saw photos of all assembled component parts except the bulb), & getting supplies of the bulb would be problematic except thru' him. The thing certainly pushed out some light though, & it was suggested that low could be used all the time & hi fired up as necessary. Then his website said this wasn't recommended

I've got an uprated alternator anyway, so don't need to limit current draw. Can put in some grunty wiring & a relay & use 100+w bulbs.

I considered that if I was building a what is effectively an end goal of a RTW bike, I'd be better to go with components that were more easily available.

And whilst I recognise the individual components were worth a bit, wasn't prepared to pay his asking price.
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 09-28-2010 at 10:16 PM
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Old 09-28-2010, 09:58 PM   #99
Oaters
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Location: Te Whanganui a Tara, Aotearoa
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Thumb impressive project

I'm impressed Steve - your 'garage' skills are clearly considerable - nice thread - watching with interest - just don't forget to spend some time with Mandy and your daughter - onya / Carpe Diem S
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:09 PM   #100
NordieBoy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BMWRSNUT
No that wasn't what was being offered. He was offering Hi / Low in one bulb, no moving parts.
I think my type is called a "bi-xenon".

The sphere is where the arc is and when high is turned on it moves back to the gap in the shield letting light out the bottom as well.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:41 PM   #101
Eddieb
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You should get this moved to the Olds kool thread Steven.
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Old 09-30-2010, 05:56 PM   #102
Mark_S
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Eddieb
You should get this moved to the Olds kool thread Steven.
with a few more threads like this and Padmei's there might actually be some regular visitors to this neglected corner of the advrider workd




feck I need to get out for a ride
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Old 10-03-2010, 01:35 AM   #103
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Getting the tank & seat to fit

Not as much progress to report this weekend as I would have liked.

The Baja Designs Light receivers are too long for the space between the triple clamps. I had originally thought to have these machined with a 2.5mm groove slot each end to allow the to slide in but Airhead Wrangler suggested a simpler solutions would be to put a 5mm spacer between the triple clamp & bearing (he's done it on his bike).

I needed to look at the steering head bearings in any event because they felt loose. Given how they loosened on the Kiwi ride, I'd hoped these were fresh bearings, that needed tightening as they settled in the grease. No such luck, though some of the grease wasn't old.

Unfortunately it appears the bottom one in particular needs replacement. A couple of those grooves feel quite pronouced. Bother...

I ran a strip of weld around the inside of the bearing cups, & they effectively just dropped out. The main bearing on the bottom triple has been more problematic. I broke & removed the cage, carefully ground the shell down, & finally split it with a cold chisel.



The upside is that I guess I can now put the spacer above the bottom triple clamp, which is a better location anyway. The spacer (5mm alloy cut into a thick 'washer') is a little crude, but will do until I can get something better made up.

Had a go getting the tank to fit properly, so that there isn't any rub, & with space for a little flex. This meant getting out the hacksaw to remove a portion of the one of the relay bracket.

I've moved the heated grip controller further towards the frame (but basically in the same space as before). I also need to make up some 90 degree brackets to secure the Enduralast regulator. Need to get some more alloy plate.



This might be why the seat didn't always latch properly.

Next up was the seat. Needed to take a portion of the front side edges. Decided to take the seat foam off, to ease this process. Cut some triangles off, so that the seat pan matched the contour of the tank. But it still didn't fit properly. Eventually cut some relief holes in the pan to allow for the tank fastners, and also shifted the seat securing front 'prong' back a cm to assist it sitting in the right position.



Probably also unnecessary, but I've also shortened the seat pan, where this rides up onto the tank, to help it sit better.

I'll cover the rear side of the relief holes with plastic before I recover the seat, so that these don't end up letting the foam take in water. I'll used plastic that I've cut from the top seaction of the seat pan.

The crappy stuff on the pan is glue. This just peels / rubs off.
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My '91 R100GS thread is here
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It's just better when there's twins involved....

Box'a'bits screwed with this post 10-04-2010 at 02:51 AM
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Old 10-05-2010, 02:22 AM   #104
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Progress / mock up

Bugger me but that looks nasty... Mock up, none of the electrics tied in, no instruments, no barkbusters, & the seat cover still to be reattached. But starting to take shape. Eventually there'll be a small screen.

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Old 10-05-2010, 02:30 AM   #105
guzzitony
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getting pretty serious there matey----- gonna put some decent tyres on?
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