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Old 10-06-2012, 01:00 AM   #1081
Padmei
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Location: Nelson New Zealand
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You getting them measured for spec?
I don;t know what the machinist did but the top of my heads looked nice when I got them back. I hiope he didn;t soda blast them but didn[t want to ask.

I soaked mine for a few days in warm dynamoed water. Unfortunately when they dried the dynamo turned to powder so i had to rinse them many times till it disappeared.

The clay stain remained on the barrels.
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:57 AM   #1082
Box'a'bits OP
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Re the valves & guides, I'm using the Nutso patented 'I-can't-afford-to-fix-it-so-I'll-Ignore-it-for-a-bit' methodology.

The rings I'll put into the bore & measure end gap.
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Old 10-06-2012, 02:11 AM   #1083
igormortis
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
I hope he didn't soda blast them but didn't want to ask.
Huh? Why?
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:11 PM   #1084
Padmei
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Originally Posted by igormortis View Post
Huh? Why?

You know how the internet is- full of doom etc. There's been old hands that don't like the left over soda getting into places it shouldn't, However when even my local mech was concerned about it I thought it best to live with the patina.

Nutso i also subscribe to your idealogy. I call it the ostrich protocol.
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Old 10-06-2012, 01:36 PM   #1085
Box'a'bits OP
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Location: Wellington, New Zealand
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Re- Ringing & Fitting Higher Compresssion Pistons:

RS 9.5:1 pistons after cleaning



RHS head after cleaning



Top (left) & middle (right) compression rings. The old ones are in the background. Used the piston to push them through the bore.



Oil scraper ring. The old one is in the background



All the new rings measured in a 0.5833mm - larger than end spec 0.5mm. But way smaller than the old ring gaps.

LHS, top & middle compression rings. The old ones in the background. Ring gap 0.533mm. Slightly less on the left side, probably because that’s where the breather tends to vent the most.





All back together now. & the rings are bedded in. I wound the motor over with the beancan & coil disconnected, & the plugs out, to get oil around & up into the top end. When things were reconnected it was a slow initial start given the dry bores & bosch starter motor.

The miss is still there.


More timing info:
From Snowbum
"BMW made some initial changes as the cleaner emissions models were contemplated. One change was the BMW changed the CAMSHAFT sprocket by THREE degrees; this is same as SIX degrees measured at the crankshaft, as far as valve timing is concerned. BMW changed ONE flywheel marking, by repositioning it, when the three degree change in camshaft timing was done. The NEW timing point was placed 6° BEFORE the original marking, as seen in the direction of the moving flywheel. That was 12.5 mm on the flywheel, in the direction OF THE TDC (OT) MARK. NOTE that the STATIC ignition timing (also called idle timing, or the S mark) was NOT changed, it remained at 9° BTDC. Obviously, OT, top dead center marking, also was not changed. Think about the differences of no-change at S, and a 6° change at the maximum advance point. ((For the super nerdy, yes, if you have a wrong flywheel, or just want to know, you can measure the S mark and see which flywheel you have))"

The change was made in the positioning of the keyway on the cam shaft sprocket. Effectively for emissions. The change happened in 01/78.

Takes a little thinking through..
  • Late ignition (post mid '78) S = 9 degrees BTDC, based on 25 degrees total advance Z = 34 degrees BTDC.
  • Lines around the S mark are +/- 3 degrees. Originally to give indicators for acceptable wear limits for the timing chain (mirror imaging)

Late ignition change is said (Snowbum) to be for emissions reasons.

Currently running Gus at 6 degrees ie pre '78 'S' mark less 3 degrees = the line prior to the S Mark. BUT the full advance is happening at the 'F' mark. This on both the available beancans. So probably okay, & ruled out as the cause of the miss (I have already experimented to rule this out).


Jetting:
Currently on 1.25 turns Idle Mixture Screw, 2.73 Needle Jet, 3rd clip down from the top of the Jet Needle, 150 Main Jet. Slightly too rich, & has a tendency not to engine brake. I'll go back down to 2.70 or 2.68 Needle Jet.


Exhaust:
I've won some SV1000 exhaust pipes on Trade Me cheap + postage. Intent is to get a mid pipe made up to fit, as well as a front balance pipe made to fit the headers (like stock). I'll also get some bungs made up to allow an Air Fuel meter to be fitted. That'll help resolve the jetting issues. Anyone want a right side pipe? I only need the left of the pair.



Zeta Fuel Tank Breather:
Discovered this works whatever orientation it's on. The BMW Fuel Cap I got a while ago has a horizontal vent, with a view towards the breather hose being fed down the steering stem. I never got around to doing that, & on the Makara ride I ended up with fuel pissing out when Gus went over. This should resolve this. The one issue may be whether rain can get in (but this has to be better than what I had). I think the prior chrome cap obviously vented via the key aperture, so that also could have caused issues.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Padmei View Post
You know how the internet is- full of doom etc. There's been old hands that don't like the left over soda getting into places it shouldn't, However when even my local mech was concerned about it I thought it best to live with the patina.

Nutso i also subscribe to your idealogy. I call it the ostrich protocol.
Soda blasting is okay. You can just wash it out. Its water soluble. It is media blasting (bead/ glass / walnut / sand etc) that is of concern.
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 10-27-2012 at 11:13 PM Reason: Updated as I try to work thru' issues
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Old 10-06-2012, 03:21 PM   #1086
Voltaire
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I reused the old valves on the R90 racebike....and the old pistons.past maximum clearance....even shimmed a flogged out top ring.......all those good things you are not supposed to do.
What my BMW guru and former engine reconditioner did was fit K liners to the guides.....
Whats a K liner you may ask?
You drill out the guide, slide in a rifled sleeve then hammer a mandrel thru it to secure it in the old guide
Can't recall if it gets reamed but thats about it.
So easy to do that I did some....
Worth a look.....oh by the way SS says its crap.
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Old 10-06-2012, 04:47 PM   #1087
innathyzit
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Voltaire View Post
...
Whats a K liner you may ask?
You drill out the guide, slide in a rifled sleeve then hammer a mandrel thru it to secure it in the old guide
Can't recall if it gets reamed but thats about it.
.

To get the correct size you bash different sized ball bearings through until the desired clearance is obtained.
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Old 10-06-2012, 05:15 PM   #1088
igormortis
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Interesting. So is this less work than replacing? Better tolerances? What's the advantage over new guides? Guy sounds Dutch, so I'm suspecting cheaper...
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Old 10-06-2012, 07:09 PM   #1089
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cheaper....easy....don't disturb the originals.....did I mention cheaper...
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:55 AM   #1090
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so have you given up on trying to keep the airhead of doom running or what????
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Old 10-23-2012, 01:46 AM   #1091
Box'a'bits OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark_S View Post
so have you given up on trying to keep the airhead of doom running or what????
Waiting on the exhaust to arrive, then off to get a Y pipe & cross pipe fabricated. I'm picking that it's not so much a jetting issue so much as a flat spot caused by the exhaust.

In the meantime I'll just live with it.

Relocating the horn:
One issue with relocating the oil cooler, & then the Hardhead valve covers has been the migration of the horn around the bike. For the last ride (MAD) & couple of months I've been without this. But coming up to WoF time again, I needed to get this resolved.

Fortunately I rediscovered a set of old crash bars off (I think) the R80ST, which had a good set of clamps, which I've used to reinstall the horn. Not a big thing you might think, but....



I need to get repainting some items on the bike.

I've also relocated the rego holder from the indicator bracket, across onto the subframe behind a pannier bracket. Little things you might think, but the breather, horn & rego relocation have helped with the look of the bike & made me happier...
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Box'a'bits screwed with this post 10-27-2012 at 11:23 PM
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Old 10-23-2012, 02:08 AM   #1092
Padmei
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Plenty of pics please.
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Old 10-23-2012, 11:51 PM   #1093
Phreaky Phil
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Quote:
Originally Posted by igormortis View Post


Interesting. So is this less work than replacing? Better tolerances? What's the advantage over new guides? Guy sounds Dutch, so I'm suspecting cheaper...
I got my valve guides redone with stock bmw guides and it used oil like it was a 2 stroke and carboned everything up until it started pinging.
After tracking down the oil consumption to the valve guides, ( they were right in the middle of the BMW spec for clearance) I got talking to Paul Rooney. He recommend K -liners with very tight clearances. So I had them fitted with 1 thou clearance. I think the BMW ones were 3 thou. No more oil consumption.
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Old 10-24-2012, 01:40 PM   #1094
igormortis
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Thanks Phil! Sounds like the way to go.
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Old 10-24-2012, 09:32 PM   #1095
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Does anyone do this in NZ? My bike is using a bit of oil and this could be the answer. How much would that cost to have done, with the heads delivered?
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