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Old 08-31-2010, 03:19 AM   #16
Blizzard Beast
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Loving your RR.Keep it going.

Originally Posted by randel

We bought a special vodka for today. It's named "Putinka" after russian prime minister Putin. Sure we were as smart as he after drinking this

That was hilarious.
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:37 AM   #17
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Originally Posted by lowbudget
So what was the problem with Antons bike? He´s gotta be so disappointed about not beeing able to do the whole trip with you guys...
He don't know until now what caused such sudden power loss. piston rings were worn, but not broken, connecting rod had a lot of play (4-5mm as he said). Is it possible that crankshaft bearing failed? There was a lot of metal in oil too.
Currently Anton is looking for a new engine as it's probably cheaper option. So if anybody has good F650GS engine left over, let us know!
Beyond clouds 2011
Beyond arctic circle 2010
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Old 08-31-2010, 06:46 AM   #18
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Day 5

We have had so many technical problems, are they over for now? At least we hoped so.
We started towards Varzuga, easternmost point in Kola peninsula you can reach in summer. During winter you can cross Varzuga river and drive further east.
Nice view to the village

There are two roads going from Umba to Varzuga, new which start as asphalt and turns to wide and nice fast redcoloured gravel road and old road where are no bridges left and road conditions vary alot. Both roads are quite close together so you can turn to new road to cross rivers and other obstacles. We planned to use old road as much as possible.
You can turn to old road after river Cernaya (Black)

Old road was nice double-track right next to the coast.

First water on the road. Oh yes! This is why we came here.

Päärn was still using old Pirelli Scorpion front. He had a spare but refused to install it.

First obstacle. A river has washed road away earlier. We will not turn back to new road, do we?

Some preparation before crossing.

And done. Piece of cake!

Road continued beautifully along the coast.

Some shots also from new road. Rare redcoloured gravel.

During low tide sea disappeared.

Small puddle on old road to keep us excited.

Kashkarantsy. It's like a trip to the past.

Local power station. I wonder how many hours a day they have electricity?

Gravel road has sharp rocks sticking out and Päärn complains his front tire loosing pressure. Some aid with small compressor.

But help was only temporary. Around 10km before our destination Varzuga Päärn's front tire was flat. Let's another tire repair begin!

Hmm, something is missing? Where is rim gone?

New Mitas E-09 installed, we continued towards Varzuga. Local market or is it a bazaar?

We met local bikers

Magnificient view to old wooden church

We made it!

We turned around and headed to Kuzomen desert. Why take a marked route while we can go directly through forest. And enjoy this.

Another water crossing. Päärn make it without problems

Juho followed him shortly.

GS engine stalled in the middle of this stream. What happened? Water in the engine? No, it can't be so! Wasn't so deep, was it? But BMW's engine refused to start.

Oh no! Definately there is a water in the oil! Bloody germans, why have they made air intake so low???

It looks like we also have found our campsite for tonight.

Juho started to take GS apart, old oil has to be let out. From where to get new oil? We drove back to Kuzomen, but no success. Nobody has 4 liters of semi-synthetic oil over. Last option was to send Raul back to Umba, 300km to get new oil .

Erik took over Juho's commitment and started cooking while Juho was inventing a modification for BMW's air intake.

First some protection for fuel lines. Special pinetree was just right for this.

Snorkel made from beercans, duct tape and empty plastic bottle. Design number one, Kuzomen edition.

Meanwhile Raul was cruising towards Umba. Sunset was just beautiful.

Raul returned 11pm, GS was filled with fresh oil and KTM offered help with some voltage.

And GS is back alive!

Tomorrow we will head to Kuzomen desert!
Beyond clouds 2011
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Old 08-31-2010, 07:15 AM   #19
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Old 08-31-2010, 04:31 PM   #20
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Why is it that the Russia Road reports are so damned entertaining?
Topes never seem to make me go any faster.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:26 PM   #21
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You guys are great. I love these russian RRs. Thanks for the report, keep it coming and the best of luck.
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Old 08-31-2010, 08:35 PM   #22
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Keep posts coming..!!!
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Old 08-31-2010, 09:18 PM   #23
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Very Nice! Keep the RR going...
2000 KLR650

There's roads and there's roads and they call, can't you hear it? Roads of the earth and roads of the spirit. The best roads of all are the ones that aren't certain. One of those is where you'll find me till they drop the big curtain. Bruce Cockburn
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Old 09-01-2010, 01:06 AM   #24
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Day 6
Yet again we were behind our plans, we should be already back in Umba, 150km from here! But sun is shining, weather is perfect and we are heading to desert, who cares about plans
Road to Kuzomen desert

We made it! It looks like perfect place to have fun!

A lot of soft sand ahead, Raul is smiling already

Everybody started riding on his own direction and forgot others. In 30minutes we all have lost others from sight. Like we say in Estonia - like a calfs in springtime

But crossing a soft sand in 4th gear, it was like riding on a sea, so much fun!

Slowly we came back together. Juho arriving at full speed. Looked like Paris-Dakar rally in real.
Btw, that selfmade snorkel failed quite soon. Beercans collapsed and boxer couldn't breath anymore. An improvment was necessary!

Desert ended with White Sea coast. A stunning view.

All five bikes back together

We continued our way along the coastline. Just perfect!

Moving along at full speed.

Further the coast is not so smooth anymore and there are more and more rocks.

It's time to turn away from coast and start looking for roads again.

Beautiful road, beautiful weather

More and more soft sand on the road and Raul managed to crash and bend his handlebar. Nothing serious and after some rebending actions all was fine again.
After that we turned to main road and while riding to Umba, all reserve lights turned on one after one on all bikes. All jerrycans were empty and when a KTM reserve light turns on 100km before next fuel station, how many chances you have to arrive? I had last 3liter canister left and we put our hopes on this. Driving as economically as possible, I managed to drive full 60km with reserve light on before my SE stopped, Päärn make it even 90km before he run out of fuel. We shared our last fuel and managed to arrive Umba, are we making it? Fuel station is on the other side of the city... we are almost! Just 3km before fuel station my SE stopped, 500m after that Päärns KTM stopped too. At least others make it to fuel station and bring us some fuel.
Juho found a PVC tube and planned to use it for next edition snorkel

All tanks are full, and we are heading north to Oktyabrsk, 150km of unknown road conditions ahead, numerous water crossings and its already afternoon. How far will we make it today?
We turned away from main road and road conditions started to get worse with every km we covered. In the beginning it was not too bad.

And bridges really do exist here.

Around 30km later Juho's topbox was seemingly loose again. Until we stopped and saw this...

All five M6 bolts were broken and there's no way we can repair this with our tools.
While we were thinking what to do, we heard motorcycles coming from opposite direction. Wow! What are they doing here? Three bikes arrived.

Four happy polish bikers, they have started from Kirovsk this morning and driven all day to arrive here, just 150km in a day.

They showed us pictures from the roads they have been riding today. Water deeper than front wheel, mud, nonexisting bridges. To be honest, it made us thinking, are we sure, what we want and where are we going?
How did they make it with passenger? Actually that girl didn't say a word and was seemingly exhausted. Those poles must be even stronger than we are!

Juho manage to install all the crap back to bike what has fallen apart. GS looks like crap already How many more things can broke away from that bike?

Meanwhile we decided that if poles make it with passenger, we will made it too! We will not turn around. And while it was very dry year, water cant be very deep . Juho was of course supercautious with water now.
We continued our way on road which turns narrower, but not much water there, only some rocks.

It was quite late and we arrived an unknown abandoned village next to big lake, called Vostochnoye Munozero (East Munozero)

We decided to make our camp here. It has been a long day already with many adventures.

Supper was made and life seems more beautiful again.

Juho started to build another snorkel, Umba edition, using our camping stove for bending the tube.

Now this looks the business. And Red Bull cap will definately give wings to GS! Let that deep watercrossings come!

So ended our 6th day. So much has happened already, what will future bring to us?
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Old 09-01-2010, 04:37 AM   #25
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Quite a ride, awaiting more.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:12 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by randel
Arctic circle was close and we started looking fort signs of it. Nothing. But we discovered a sign "Poljarnoi Krug (Polar cicrcle) 5km". Sure we went to look for it. Road to the villages was inspiring.


Village itself was small and didn't look different from others. No signs from arctic circle at all.
According to our maps, the village of Poljarnoi Krug is still some 10km's south of the actual Arctic Circle.

On the Murmansk M18 Highway, there was some type of monument very near the Artic Circle line (according to GPS). This picture is taken at that monument (looking south, here).

Good trip report. Nice to see some of the same places we have visited from another perspective. Can't wait to hear how the story ends!



Tseta screwed with this post 09-01-2010 at 05:26 AM
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:24 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by Tseta
On the Murmansk M18 Highway, there was some type of monument very near the Artic Circle line (according to GPS). This picture is taken at that monument (looking south, here).

Yes we saw this sign, but only from mirrors and didn't want to turn around. It's difficult to see when coming from south.
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Old 09-01-2010, 05:28 AM   #28
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One brilliant ride...bring on more

PS: loved the Sidecar motorcycle...
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Old 09-01-2010, 06:01 AM   #29
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Thanks for sharing...waiting for more!!!
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"Off road, but still on track..."

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Old 09-01-2010, 07:39 PM   #30
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Wow! What a great report! Keep it coming.
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