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Old 09-26-2007, 09:14 AM   #166
knybanjo
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Joined: May 2006
Location: out in the clover patch
Oddometer: 22,954
Quote:
Originally Posted by toolfan
I hate to say it - but I think that is a bearing letting go.

How many miles does yours have?
Just under 30k
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Old 09-26-2007, 08:20 PM   #167
mnormand
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lafayette, La.
Oddometer: 358
More questions

Today I rec'd the seals I ordered. Toolfan, you were spot on ! I was able to carefully pry the dust seal out with a screwdriver, taking extreme care not to scratch the tube. Refilled with oil, then set up a jack, and had my wife slowwwwllly lift up on the jack while I held the fork and a short 2x4 spacer to reach a solid point. Not sure if we would both get covered in oil when/if it blew. But with one stroke of the jack, the seal just popped out about an inch! Perfect !
Got the new one seated, and everything buttoned up, so far no leaks after a short ride later.

I also pulled the tank and got to those valve ajustments, but the offset valve adjustment set I got from Autozone surprised me, didn't have one quite that thin per the specs. Rats. Well at least next try I'll know how to do it.

QUESTION: as I have no owners manual, what is the "Prime" for on the petcock? There is no "off" on mine, only 3 positions.. Reserve, Normal/Run/whatever, and Prime. The service manual says turn it to "off" before pulling the tank. And when I hooked the tank back up, I had gas running from the bowl overflow? nonstop. Didn't know what to do, finally after catching repeated cupfulls, I opened the filler with key and apparently inside pressure was equalized, and the fuel finally stopped draining. It was kinda crazy with gas everywhere for a while.

Oh yeah, mine was indeed a California bike, not anymore! De-smogged.
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Old 09-26-2007, 09:08 PM   #168
toolfan
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: NoPo (pdx)
Oddometer: 9,543
Cool! Nothing more satisfying than a job well done!


Your petcock is vacuum operated -
Reserve - get that last little bit
On - If the engine is pulling vacuum, fuel will flow
Prime - bypasses the vacuum diaphragm, fuel flows without engine running.
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Old 09-27-2007, 06:47 AM   #169
SteveBroskey
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Joined: May 2006
Location: Rochester, NY
Oddometer: 541


+1 to what toolfan said
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Old 09-27-2007, 03:33 PM   #170
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 458
Braided brake line?

So who was it that was gonna add the braided brake line? Did you figure out what length to order? Im lazy and hope that someone else figured the measurement. LOL
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Old 09-27-2007, 09:58 PM   #171
knybanjo
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Joined: May 2006
Location: out in the clover patch
Oddometer: 22,954
Quote:
Originally Posted by quint7
So who was it that was gonna add the braided brake line? Did you figure out what length to order? Im lazy and hope that someone else figured the measurement. LOL

I don't remember the #s....but...it was the longest one the shop had in stock. (I think they thought they'd never sell it)

It made a WORLD of difference on my bike!

side note....someone thinks my bike may just have a bent shifting fork rubbing while in 3rd.
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Old 10-01-2007, 01:13 PM   #172
stevele5
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Joined: Jul 2006
Location: Fresno
Oddometer: 1,104
megacycle cams?

anybody install a set of hot cams in th dr650?
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Old 10-02-2007, 08:25 AM   #173
tslewisz
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Joined: Oct 2005
Location: Bloomington, IL
Oddometer: 2,336
Quote:
Originally Posted by quint7
So who was it that was gonna add the braided brake line? Did you figure out what length to order? Im lazy and hope that someone else figured the measurement. LOL
I just had mine done. The shop made them up from scratch (cut line and add ends) and the tech said it was just as easy for them to install them while they were at it. So, I don't know what the length is. Also, he decided to route the line similar to stock, rather than just "over and down" MX-bike-style. He had some reasoning, which honestly escaped me.

My bike is finally becoming fun to ride after:

fork seals
Eibach fork springs
slipon
jet kit
chain/sprockets
risers and YZ-high bend fat bar
Renthal med grips
brake pads
braided lines
Moose shift lever

Plus:

Acerbis 6.6-gal tank
DRZ250 tail light
LED turn siggies

Please, please, please, if you add up the cost of those parts, don't tell me! But, if anyone has a suggestion for a better rear shock for the old girl let me know!
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Old 10-02-2007, 09:29 AM   #174
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 458
Slipon/ jetting

What slip-on muffler did you use?

I would love to dump the boat anchor....... I think it is a 2inch opening but would love to know if you found a sure fit pipe.

Also, what jetting are you running?

I have a 155 main Dynojet, needle on 4th clip as suggested and the fuel screw out 2 turns. Still hesitates badly when Im letting out the clutch unless I up the idle to around 2000rpm. Im at around 500ft above sea level, side cover off airbox and foam air filter.

Thanks! Jason
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Old 10-02-2007, 11:15 AM   #175
tslewisz
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Location: Bloomington, IL
Oddometer: 2,336
The bike came with a crappy old Cobra, uninstalled.

As for jetting, I just used DJ's recommendations. My s/b sidecover is intact. I'm happy with it except for decel popping, which I can eliminate by idling up to about 1700. I have it at 1500.

Have you cleaned your idle circuit? Sounds like it's not getting enough fuel on the bottom.
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Old 10-02-2007, 11:46 AM   #176
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 458
I took everything apart a while ago when I did the jet kit. I have played with the idle and idle mixture screw and just can't get the crisp low end throttle that am used to from riding inline 4's forever. If I idle around 2000 it is perfec too, just seems like a engine shouldn't idle at 2000rpm, but I dont have any owners manual or anything to give specs. I might throw the side cover on before I leave forwork to see if that helps. Up above 3000rpm it screams! Hard to believe that it is only a 650 single the way the power comes on!
I know that it is always tough to perfect carbs, esp. non-pumper carbs like on the DR and esp. on singles. I do a lot of city riding and having to worry about bogging and stalling at a stoplight aren't cool.

Just for reference:
92 kicker, 6500 miles
6.6.gallon tank
Eibach front springs and heavier oil (Im 6'3" 260 pounds)
SOON gettting MEFO tires...... from KLR650.com, supposed to be the best on/off road tire around
Jet kit, Dynojet 155 main, extended fuel screw out 2 turns
Foam air filter
Want a new headlight/turn signal setup from UFO or someone
Want a new silencer/muffler
Want a braided front brake line
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Old 10-02-2007, 02:50 PM   #177
quint7
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Joined: Jun 2007
Location: Finger Lakes (Rochester) NY
Oddometer: 458
Side cover on

So I am at work now and I put the side cover back on before I rode in. It is only a 5-10 minute ride but I felt a difference with the side cover on.
I rode the first 1/2 mile or so at full choke so it was idling around 2000rpm. Then at a stop sign I cut the choke all the way of and rode the last 1, 1 1/2 miles with no choke. She seems to pull from idle better but there is definately a midrange bog now and some popping on deceleration, but from a stop it seems much better.
I should be putting close to 200 miles on tomorrow. Stop and go, open 2 lane country roads and some twisties. SHould be a good test to see if that cover makes it more ridable all around. The "rush" at higher rpm's is a bit less but still has decent power. It is a bit quieter too with the air cleaner closed off inside the box.
Oh, it is cloundy, wt and about 60 degrees here today, yesterday was sunny and over 70....... if that makes a difference.
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Old 10-03-2007, 01:37 PM   #178
Kawidad
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Location: Central Coast, Cal
Oddometer: 4,503
Quote:
Originally Posted by mnormand
QUESTION: as I have no owners manual, what is the "Prime" for on the petcock? There is no "off" on mine, only 3 positions.. Reserve, Normal/Run/whatever, and Prime. The service manual says turn it to "off" before pulling the tank. And when I hooked the tank back up, I had gas running from the bowl overflow? nonstop. Didn't know what to do, finally after catching repeated cupfulls, I opened the filler with key and apparently inside pressure was equalized, and the fuel finally stopped draining. It was kinda crazy with gas everywhere for a while.

Oh yeah, mine was indeed a California bike, not anymore! De-smogged.
The "prime" just allows fuel to flow, otherwise it should not flow without vaccum from the engine. If its on prime, then it will just flow until empty. These petcocks are vaccum operated from the carb.
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Old 10-04-2007, 06:03 AM   #179
mnormand
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Joined: Aug 2007
Location: Lafayette, La.
Oddometer: 358
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kawidad
The "prime" just allows fuel to flow, otherwise it should not flow without vaccum from the engine. If its on prime, then it will just flow until empty. These petcocks are vaccum operated from the carb.
Unless maybe there is positive pressure in the tank? I'm still having trouble with this, still getting the occasional fuel leaking from float bowl overflow. Need to pull the tank and see if the vent line is pinched underneath. That would sure explain everything.

Does anyone think it is possible to blow air (by mouth) from the bottom of the vent hose going to the tank? This would easily verify an open line. I tried and couldn't get anything, is there is a check valve or something inside? My serv manual shows a fuel/air separator up near the filler neck inside. This vent hose used to connect to the now removed emmissions canister, and also had an inline check valve, which is also removed at present.

Another thought, this leaking only occurs sometimes, when trying to cold start, or right after cold starting. Could this be an issue of the carb float stuck at first, then loosening up? I never had this problem before pulling the smog gear last week.

Thanks, great thread.
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Old 10-04-2007, 07:21 AM   #180
toolfan
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Location: NoPo (pdx)
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The pressure in the tank shouldn't matter. Plus the tank is vented, so it shouldn't build up pressure.
The petcock has a diaphragm in it, when the engine produces vaccum (is on). You can make it work by sucking on the hose that goes from the carb to the back of the petcock. (Not the fuel hose, the other, smaller one) It sounds to me like yours is working correctly, but it sounds like your floats are set too high and they let too much fuel into the bowls

Quote:
Originally Posted by mnormand
Unless maybe there is positive pressure in the tank? I'm still having trouble with this, still getting the occasional fuel leaking from float bowl overflow. Need to pull the tank and see if the vent line is pinched underneath. That would sure explain everything.

Does anyone think it is possible to blow air (by mouth) from the bottom of the vent hose going to the tank? This would easily verify an open line. I tried and couldn't get anything, is there is a check valve or something inside? My serv manual shows a fuel/air separator up near the filler neck inside. This vent hose used to connect to the now removed emmissions canister, and also had an inline check valve, which is also removed at present.

Another thought, this leaking only occurs sometimes, when trying to cold start, or right after cold starting. Could this be an issue of the carb float stuck at first, then loosening up? I never had this problem before pulling the smog gear last week.

Thanks, great thread.
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