Pre '96 Suzuki DR650S - Page 243

motolab · 03-02-2013, 10:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Most aftermarket cans will require jetting changes to compensate for a huge increase in exhaust flow from stock. Depending on what is back there increasing the pilot jet size, raising the needle and/or increasing the main jet size will likely make the bike much happier.

You are right that the jetting should be looked at altering the exhaust. However there is no guarantee that the mixture will need to be richened. The opposite may very well be true, especially if the stock airbox and snorkel are in place. The changes required may also not be consistent across all circuits, i.e. one circuit may require leaning while another may require richening, or a different needle shape may be required.

Regards,

Derek

motolab · 03-02-2013, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by avianello

Look at what some crazy Italian did to one of our bikes. Nice job!
http://www.bikeexif.com/suzuki-dr650#comment-779487087

What a wild and crazy guy!

Ladder106 · 03-02-2013, 10:33 AM

Good advice, Derek.

I'm just finishing my "butt-dyno" method of jetting on my DR750.

I've been posting the process at www.drbig.info but will do the conclusive stuff on ADV.

I've found that the intack tract changes are making the largest jet changes necessary. The exhaust (GSXR can) had almost no effect. Opening a hole in the airbox was a BIG step toward increasing airflow through the engine.

motolab · 03-02-2013, 11:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

I've found that the intack tract changes are making the largest jet changes necessary. The exhaust (GSXR can) had almost no effect.

My experience with other bikes corroborates this.

Quote:

Opening a hole in the airbox was a BIG step toward increasing airflow through the engine.

Indeed, but be aware that the main jet then required to make the mixture correct during WOT high rpm operation may produce an inordinately rich mixture at lower rpm. This can be compensated for via a larger needle base diameter, smaller emulsion tube, lowered fuel level, or a combination thereof. Depending on the shape of the fuel delivery curve, it may also be possible to reduce the main air correction and then install a smaller main jet.

Regards,

Derek

Cobain · 03-03-2013, 09:51 PM

Hey guys got some questions for ya. Whats the cheapest and easiest way about getting an 18in front wheel for the stock forks while using the stock speedo?

Also I've been looking around the net but can't find any info on a USD fork swap for our bikes, I've seen it done but no info on the matter. The stock forks are just too wimpy for my riding.

ben2go · 03-04-2013, 04:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobain

Hey guys got some questions for ya. Whats the cheapest and easiest way about getting an 18in front wheel for the stock forks while using the stock speedo?

Also I've been looking around the net but can't find any info on a USD fork swap for our bikes, I've seen it done but no info on the matter. The stock forks are just too wimpy for my riding.

Use this list and find your bike model and year.That will give you bearing sizes.All you need is a fork set with the same ID bearing size.If it won't bolt in,it shouldn't take much to make it fit.Mare than likely a stem swap is all that's needed.

http://www.ohiocaferacers.com/OCRStemSizes.pdf

Then find another bike with better forks.When you buy the better front end,get the wheel,rotor,caliper,hose,and master cylinder.That way you know that everything will work together.

Steve87 · 03-05-2013, 07:33 AM

I have just buyed the Dr600 Dakar from 1986, and i have the same problem here in Italy to find some luggage accessories for it. Maybe in past years there was some articles but now here you will have the luck to find them used, or find someone that customize that... However good luck man!!

Ladder106 · 03-05-2013, 07:51 AM

Why would you want an 18 in front?

It seems that tire sizes are a bit limited for this rim size. What type of riding do you have in mind and how are the standard forks "whimpy"?

Fork mods can be a bit tricky (Ive dont 3 of them on my Transalp). Sure it's easy to get a machinist to make up a triple clamp spindle to whatever dimension you want.

But you should be careful to measure the fork rake, trail and triple clamp off-set. This is also complicated by the fact that all forks do not carry the front axle in the same position on the fork leg.

Then, if you're looking for additional fork travel, you may run into a problem with the front tire hitting the frame downtube on full compression. You do NOT want this to happen since it will stop your front tire when you need it the most. The result is, you get launched.

Not saying it's impossible you just have to be a bit careful.

DRZ400S forks are available on eBay and CL. They are not too expensive, are conventional not USD but use 49 mm fork tubes and are very strong. You might take a look there. You can also sometimes get these with the front wheel and brake attached to eliminate the speedo problems.

Cobain · 03-05-2013, 09:11 PM

i think i meant a 17in. i just need another front wheel and ill have a dirt set and a street set. As for the stock forks, I've had better forks on my downhill bikes. I ride my DR like a hooligan rides a dirtbike, and the forks bottom out hard quite a bit even with progressive springs. Im thinking a set of true "dirt bike" forks with be more fitting.

Ladder106 · 03-06-2013, 09:12 AM

Have you tried improving the standard forks.

If flex in the tubes is not your problem (although it might be with a huge sticky 17 in tire), you can usually "tune out" bottoming.

How long has the fork oil been in use? Start by adding 10 or 15 mm of fork oil and reducing the air gap above the oil. Measure this with the springs out and the fork at full compression. (apologies if you already know this stuff)

Progressive springs are one thing but are they correct for your weight?

You should see about 25% of the full fork travel used up (sag) with you on the bike in full riding gear. If you have more than that heavier springs are likely in order particularly if you do a lot of jumping. The DR is a bit of a "thick girl" for lots of aerial work.

motolab · 03-06-2013, 11:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ladder106

Progressive springs are one thing but are they correct for your weight?

Not likely.

Quote:

You should see about 25% of the full fork travel used up (sag) with you on the bike in full riding gear. If you have more than that heavier springs are likely in order particularly if you do a lot of jumping.

Almost any spring can give 25% laden sag if preloaded enough. Therefore the real test of whether or not the springs have the correct rate is whether or not both laden and unladen sag targets can be hit when they are properly preloaded.

The oil level should only be tailored to prevent bottoming after the correct rate spring is installed with the correct preload.

Regards,

Derek

Cobain · 03-06-2013, 06:46 PM

the thing is I've rebuilt a few dirt bike forks but managed to screw them up. I had the shop replace the seals and sprigs and oil because they owed me one. Today i managed to bottom them out hard about 10 times. I don't wanna screw with them or put any more money into them because they are what they are, old small forks for light duty riding. As for the front wheel, i think ill just find a stocker and put a street tire on that.

Cobain · 03-06-2013, 07:58 PM

Another question, where can i find a 14t sprocket for our bikes? Mines a 94, i have already got a 15t. Procycle sells a 14t that claims it fits 90 to present bikes but the 96+ uses a thicker one that i couldn't fit to my bike.

motolab · 03-07-2013, 08:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Cobain

Another question, where can i find a 14t sprocket for our bikes? Mines a 94, i have already got a 15t. Procycle sells a 14t that claims it fits 90 to present bikes but the 96+ uses a thicker one that i couldn't fit to my bike.

Both PBI and JT make 14T front sprockets for the pre-'96 DR, and the part numbers are indeed different than for the '96 and up models. PM me if you get stuck...

Regards,

Derek

Francisco Gomez · 03-08-2013, 11:03 AM

Hello how are you, this is F.Gomez from Venezuela, nice to meet you.
Regarding to install Plastic tank in DR 650 I can found some inconvenience which is how to attache the plastic base of the seat to the plastic tank, because according to the photo any attachement can be see on the tank, it´s means that front end of the seat will be free? or some hardware, that I can not see on the photo are include with the tank?
For your reference in this forum other person install Acerbis Plastic Tank but he shown the hardware to install it.
Please could you explain how to install this seat to the tank?
Thanks a lot for your support in this matter

Quote:

Originally Posted by SteveBroskey

Pictures coming, along with a write-up, but I've found the bolt, and two valve adjustment nuts. One of the nuts is crushed in quite a mishapen manner. I'll put up pictures of that one for sure, but in the meantime, I'm going to the shop to order a gasket set, a new nut, and some new fasteners.
-S

P.S. I got one of the magnet-extendo-thingees.... that's how I pulled the mushed one out of the bowels of the engine...

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03-02-2013, 10:33 AM	#3633
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,268	Good advice, Derek. I'm just finishing my "butt-dyno" method of jetting on my DR750. I've been posting the process at www.drbig.info but will do the conclusive stuff on ADV. I've found that the intack tract changes are making the largest jet changes necessary. The exhaust (GSXR can) had almost no effect. Opening a hole in the airbox was a BIG step toward increasing airflow through the engine.

03-03-2013, 09:51 PM	#3635
Cobain night owl Joined: Aug 2012 Location: Spokane Oddometer: 130	Hey guys got some questions for ya. Whats the cheapest and easiest way about getting an 18in front wheel for the stock forks while using the stock speedo? Also I've been looking around the net but can't find any info on a USD fork swap for our bikes, I've seen it done but no info on the matter. The stock forks are just too wimpy for my riding.

03-05-2013, 07:33 AM	#3637
Steve87 n00b Joined: Mar 2013 Location: Aviano, FVG, Italy Oddometer: 1	I have just buyed the Dr600 Dakar from 1986, and i have the same problem here in Italy to find some luggage accessories for it. Maybe in past years there was some articles but now here you will have the luck to find them used, or find someone that customize that... However good luck man!!

03-05-2013, 07:51 AM	#3638
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,268	Why would you want an 18 in front? It seems that tire sizes are a bit limited for this rim size. What type of riding do you have in mind and how are the standard forks "whimpy"? Fork mods can be a bit tricky (Ive dont 3 of them on my Transalp). Sure it's easy to get a machinist to make up a triple clamp spindle to whatever dimension you want. But you should be careful to measure the fork rake, trail and triple clamp off-set. This is also complicated by the fact that all forks do not carry the front axle in the same position on the fork leg. Then, if you're looking for additional fork travel, you may run into a problem with the front tire hitting the frame downtube on full compression. You do NOT want this to happen since it will stop your front tire when you need it the most. The result is, you get launched. Not saying it's impossible you just have to be a bit careful. DRZ400S forks are available on eBay and CL. They are not too expensive, are conventional not USD but use 49 mm fork tubes and are very strong. You might take a look there. You can also sometimes get these with the front wheel and brake attached to eliminate the speedo problems.

03-05-2013, 09:11 PM	#3639
Cobain night owl Joined: Aug 2012 Location: Spokane Oddometer: 130	i think i meant a 17in. i just need another front wheel and ill have a dirt set and a street set. As for the stock forks, I've had better forks on my downhill bikes. I ride my DR like a hooligan rides a dirtbike, and the forks bottom out hard quite a bit even with progressive springs. Im thinking a set of true "dirt bike" forks with be more fitting.

03-06-2013, 09:12 AM	#3640
Ladder106 It's a short cut, really Joined: Jan 2005 Location: Davis, CA Oddometer: 4,268	Have you tried improving the standard forks. If flex in the tubes is not your problem (although it might be with a huge sticky 17 in tire), you can usually "tune out" bottoming. How long has the fork oil been in use? Start by adding 10 or 15 mm of fork oil and reducing the air gap above the oil. Measure this with the springs out and the fork at full compression. (apologies if you already know this stuff) Progressive springs are one thing but are they correct for your weight? You should see about 25% of the full fork travel used up (sag) with you on the bike in full riding gear. If you have more than that heavier springs are likely in order particularly if you do a lot of jumping. The DR is a bit of a "thick girl" for lots of aerial work.

03-06-2013, 06:46 PM	#3642
Cobain night owl Joined: Aug 2012 Location: Spokane Oddometer: 130	the thing is I've rebuilt a few dirt bike forks but managed to screw them up. I had the shop replace the seals and sprigs and oil because they owed me one. Today i managed to bottom them out hard about 10 times. I don't wanna screw with them or put any more money into them because they are what they are, old small forks for light duty riding. As for the front wheel, i think ill just find a stocker and put a street tire on that.

03-06-2013, 07:58 PM	#3643
Cobain night owl Joined: Aug 2012 Location: Spokane Oddometer: 130	Another question, where can i find a 14t sprocket for our bikes? Mines a 94, i have already got a 15t. Procycle sells a 14t that claims it fits 90 to present bikes but the 96+ uses a thicker one that i couldn't fit to my bike.