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Old 04-19-2013, 03:31 PM   #3661
d251man
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supertrapp

I have a supertrapp on my 92 DR. It is a little louder, but my throttle response is much better. Keep it on and enjoy the ride. BTW I pulled all but one disc to quiet the bike and bit and noticed a large drop in performance. Anybody else have a supertrapp muffler?
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Old 04-19-2013, 03:34 PM   #3662
d251man
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Bar risers/ inch and a quarter bars

Does anyone know of OEM cross over for the oversize bars ( 1 1/4 inch protapers) that will fit my 92 DR 650? I think I can get them from pro cycle, but if possible i would like to buy them in Canada. Thanks
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Old 05-05-2013, 02:16 PM   #3663
SpringheelJack
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Broken bolt .... do I dare?

Accidentally discovered this yesterday. The bolt is broken off and just lifts out of its' hole.



Questions: 1) This is just a cover bolt, correct, not involved with the rocker arms or anything? 2) Safe to ride like this, or does it absolutely need to be fixed, or wait until it starts pouring oil? There's just a couple of threads left on the bottom of the bolt, and I don't think the threaded part of these bolts is very long anyway, so is there a chance of drilling out such a small piece or using an easy-out with the space available?

Thanks ....

Steve
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:07 PM   #3664
Ladder106
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On the DR750 that bolt holds the decompression shaft in place.

Yes, it is important
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Old 05-07-2013, 12:36 AM   #3665
SpringheelJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
On the DR750 that bolt holds the decompression shaft in place.

Yes, it is important
Yup, sure enough. Don't know why I didn't realize this already. Pulled the bolt out and I probably could have just pulled the decompression shaft out. Guess I have some work to do.

Thanks ...

Steve
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1993 Nighthawk 750
1992 DR650 (gone)
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Old 05-07-2013, 09:27 AM   #3666
Ladder106
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It more "locates" the decomp shaft rather than holds it down or anything.

The bolt doesn't need much torque. It just has to stay in position.
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:47 AM   #3667
MartinPetren
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Oil consumption

Hi, my '92 takes a lot of oil. It doesn't smoke or anything but uses plenty of oil. On my last trip I drove for like 40-500 km and used a hole 1,5l bottle of oil in the process. It feels like I have to fill up with oil every second time I fill it with gasoline.

I have recently stopped a leak that I had. And I've always thought that it was the reason for the high consumption. But now that it is fixed it still takes a lot.

My thought and speculations:

1.I have noticed the "crankcase breather hose" going up to the airbox is usually moist from oil. Any possibilites that oil can travel that way up and then drip out of the hose underneath? Sure, my bike usually takes a nap or two in the forest and oil could possibly be running out that way then. But not while driving, huh?

2. Piston rings. It's an old lady, I seriously doubt that they or the piston was ever changed. Is this a common problem for excessive oil consumption? The only thing that worries me is that if I open her up, I might find something else the same time.. Like wear on and near the valves/cam shaft etc.

3. Valve settings. I did them last year, and only had to set the exhaust side. But this shouldn't really be connected to oil consumption anyway.

What are your experiences and solutions? Am I out riding bicycles with my thoughts?

Martin
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Old 05-07-2013, 05:32 PM   #3668
knybanjo
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Worn piston and rings results in blowby increasing crankcase pressure and pushing oil out the breather into the airbox.
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Old 05-07-2013, 07:18 PM   #3669
tonusmaximus
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Picked up this '94 dr650 w 6.5K on clock last night and PO stated he had dealer tighten the adjuster on the counterbalancer. He said it was loose as all get out so posibly junped a tooth? Its still vibrating enough to "walk" when idling. Gonna do a valve check and thorough inspection but man does it shake like Elvis. Thoughts?

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Old 05-07-2013, 07:54 PM   #3670
JBradley500
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My dad's 94 had the balancer stuff come apart and i think all of it's ruined. the dealership said they are having a hard time finding the stuff. Can you get any of that stuff aftermarket or adapt anything from a different year bike to the pre-96's?

Thanks
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Old 05-07-2013, 10:12 PM   #3671
tonusmaximus
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Also the key and cylinder are both shot and a flathead screwdriver can start bike. Anyone know where to source another? Thanks ahead
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Old 05-08-2013, 01:38 AM   #3672
Ladder106
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Quote:
posibly junped a tooth? Its still vibrating enough to "walk" when idling. Gonna do a valve check and thorough inspection but man does it shake like Elvis. Thoughts?
If it did indeed jump a tooth (very possible with a loose timing chain) it will vibrate WAY to much.

Check post #3595 for a nice service manual photo of how to check your timing chain.

The indexing links will not always line up as per the diagram and you may have to spin the engine a number of times to get that to happen.

You can, however, always count the chain pins as in the diagram. Once the piston is at TDC the chain pin number will be accurate.

You can then see if you are a tooth or two off.

If so, loosening the slack adjuster might give you enough room to retime it but be prepaired to pull the flywheel and maybe one of the balancer sprockets to do this.

Also, be aware that if you are taking the left side case off, the stator will try to stay attached to the flywheel magnets so pulling the case off can be "interesting". The gasket almost always has to be replaced so make sure you have a spare before starting.

If you've already done an oil change, you can pull the left side case by carefully leaning the bike on its right side. If the oil needs changing anyway, this is a good time to look at the balancer timing.

When you remove the left case, be ready for the starter gears to fall out onto the floor. Try to pull the case carefully so you can be certain to pul the gears and spacers (if any) back where they came from. Yes, this is a bit fiddly.

As for ignition switches, Suzuki used this lock barrel on a number of bikes, DR350's etc. You should be able to find one at a wreckers. Take the old one with you to be certain the wiring matches up.
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Old 05-08-2013, 04:23 AM   #3673
tonusmaximus
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Qoute. "If so, loosening the slack adjuster might give you enough room to retime it but be prepaired to pull the flywheel and maybe one of the balancer sprockets to do this."



Does this say I will have to pull flywheel or I might have to pull it if it has jumped? I don't have flywheel puller and can order one if so. Also will anything that's falls out when I remove the cover be fairly easily to see where it goes back? I'm good at replacing things as long as I see where they came from or they fit only one way.
Do these chains stretch like a cam chain and need replaced when adjuster is all they way out?

thanks for the quick reply and link to diagram also!
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:34 AM   #3674
Ladder106
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My experience with this is with the DR750 (euro model). The 650 is very similar in build and design here but there are some differences.

I was replacing the timing chain (yes, they do stretch like a cam chain) and forgot what I was doing. Turned the crank backwards before I had the slack adjuster set and the chain skipped a tooth on the crank sprocket. The flywheel and balancer sprockets had to be removed (again) to reset the timing. There was very little room on my bike between the chain and the outside of the left engine case half. No way to work slack around the sprocket to reset the chain.

So, I don't know details with the 650. That's why I said you should be "prepared" to pull the flywheel and remove the timing sprockets. If not you're likely to have the bike down for a week or so while you wait for parts or tools.

A holder for the timing sprockets can be built from a piece of aluminum plate with two bolts drilled through at the appropriate spacing. The bolts hold the sprocket and the aluminum plate (if shaped correctly) prevents the sprocket from turning by bumping into the left engine case half. A large hole cut into the center of the plate allows wrench access to the nut.

First step will be to pull the left case, put the engine at TDC and count the timing chain links.

Also look at the slack adjuster. If the adjuster is at the end of the slots and there is still perceptible slack in the timing chain, the chain should be replaced.

We can get more serious from there if you have to re-time or replace the chain.
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:45 AM   #3675
Ladder106
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The starter reduction gears SHOULD be fairly easy to replace since they only go one way. The problem here is that some bikes had small spacer washers on certain gear shafts and it's difficult to determine where they lived if you just see them for the first time while they are rolling along the floor and landing under your tool chest.

Some guys have reassembled with the spacers on the wrong shafts and bound up the starter gears when reassembling the left case. The starter would not turn the bike over and fuses were blowing. Took a while to trace that one down.

It may actually be best to pull the left case for the first time with the bike on it's right side. That minimizes the chance of the gears dropping out onto the ground.

Here's the scenario. You have the case bolts all out and tap around the case gently with a plastic hammer to try to release the old gasket and free up the case on the dowel pins. Once you get a small gap, you grab the case with both hand and start to gently wiggle it off.

Here's where the mag/generator magnets come into play. The magnets try to hold the stator (bolted to the left case) into the magnetic field inside the flywheel.

You pull stronger.....stronger....trying to go slowly. Then POP you get past the magnetic field and the case ends up sitting in your lap while you watch the starter gears and spacers dance across the shop floor and the gasket you were trying NOT to tear is in three pieces.

Experience with this (and prior warning) help but it's still a bit of a "roll the dice" process.
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