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Old 05-08-2013, 06:55 AM   #3676
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,861
Photo of timing sprocket holder:

http://www.bollertante.de/big/albums..._DSCN0706a.jpg


http://www.bollertante.de/big/albums..._DSCN0705a.jpg
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Old 05-08-2013, 07:08 AM   #3677
tonusmaximus
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Wealth of knowledge friend. Have a four day ride next week so new bike will have to miss out. guessing im gonna be in there a while so I need to locate a flywheel puller from somewhere. Hint anyone with a '94 puller they wanna rent Ill be happy to pay em a weeks lease fees. Love the raw power on this bike.

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Old 05-09-2013, 12:40 AM   #3678
SpringheelJack
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
It more "locates" the decomp shaft rather than holds it down or anything.

The bolt doesn't need much torque. It just has to stay in position.
Yeah, figured that after taking the cover off. The PO had filled hole with .... JB weld, maybe? Or the Permatex stripped thread repair stuff? The bottom of the broken bolt had it too, so I think he tried to glue it together somehow. Anyway, it sucked. Basically wound up almost drilling a new hole that was sort of oblong because of how the frame got in the way. Put the cover back on, drilled and tapped the hole using the cover hole as a guide. It's not pretty - at all- but the bolt seemed to seat fairly well and has enough torque to stay in place. Waiting for my new chain to get here tomorrow so I can get it down off the jackstands and get the oil filled with tiny little metal shavings out .... hopefully without grenading my engine. Got out everything I could with clean rags and long skinny magnets but there's still some stuff under the exhaust valves I couldn't quite get to.

Thanks for the response.

Steve
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:05 AM   #3679
tonusmaximus
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Anything special I need to know when replacing fork seals on the bike?

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Old 05-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #3680
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Take a look at the bushings. Fork bushings should be silver in color. If you see brass or copper color coming through, put in new bushings. They are not too expensive and the forks will work better. Your seals may even last longer since the for legs won't be shifting back in forth on the tubes.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:44 PM   #3681
DepthFinder
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SpringheelJack View Post
Yup, sure enough. Don't know why I didn't realize this already. Pulled the bolt out and I probably could have just pulled the decompression shaft out. Guess I have some work to do.

Thanks ...

Steve
Also, the cover is stressed since it contains the rockers and shafts. Uneven distribution of torque and pressure may cause premature wear and flexing (especially with those longer bolts near the rocker shafts)
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Old 05-13-2013, 01:59 PM   #3682
tonusmaximus
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Hey Ladder. whats ur tecnique on separating the forks? was hoping a quick smack from driver would loosen the bolt but no such luck.

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Old 05-13-2013, 02:28 PM   #3683
tonusmaximus
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Disregard. used special tool aka broomstick.

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Old 05-13-2013, 05:47 PM   #3684
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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I generally drain the oil, then put the cap back on (not completely tight).

Then turn the fork over. Push down sharply on the fork leg at the same time you hit the impact driver or trigger the air gun. Pneumatic wrench works a treat here.
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Old 05-13-2013, 06:15 PM   #3685
tonusmaximus
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Ill give that a go on the
dr350. its next. I wont have to worry about splinters or debris that way.

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Old 05-28-2013, 11:34 AM   #3686
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so I'm gonna trailer the bike to the dealer and have em take the flywheel off so I can inspect what I suspect about the balancer chain skipping a tooth. Ive got the stator cover off and all the bushings and such off. She vibrates like shes in a convulsive fit but idles and revs ok.

1. Will I need the flywheel puller tool to put flywheel back on?
2. Will I be able to cycle the engine when the flywheel is off to locate all the links to check which sprocket is off?
3. Do I need to put this thing in top dead center before they take it off?
4. The cam chain being off wouldn't make it vibrate like this or could it?


any other help is greatly appreciated people...
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Old 05-28-2013, 12:46 PM   #3687
Schall87
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Balancer Chain

I went through this process by myself with my 94 dr650 about 3 months ago, when I bought it. The P.O. had failed to tighten the balancer chain, so it had skipped several teeth, and sheered the "drive sprocket" that drives the counter weights themselves. I had to replace the chain & the drive sprocket. So, if you have any specific questions I can answer them. It wasn't too hard, I had zero mechanical experience prior to this.
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Old 05-28-2013, 08:48 PM   #3688
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Quote:
1. Will I need the flywheel puller tool to put flywheel back on?
No, as long as you don't tighten the bolt, the flywheel can be placed (placed mind you not pushed hard) onto the crank and then removed again by hand.

Any tightening of the bolt and the tapered shaft does its work and you'll need the puller again.

Quote:
2. Will I be able to cycle the engine when the flywheel is off to locate all the links to check which sprocket is off?
Pull the sparkplugs, raise the rear wheel, put the bike into gear and use the wheel to spin the engine. Turn the wheel forward only.

Quote:
3. Do I need to put this thing in top dead center before they take it off?
No but doing so will save you time later

Quote:
4. The cam chain being off wouldn't make it vibrate like this or could it?
Not likely. If the cam slips time the valves will be out of sync with the piston. If only a tooth or two the bike will just run poorly. If more you may crash the piston top into the valves.


Go back a few pages where the nice diagram of the balancer chain was put up. All you really need to do is count the chain pins/links. This should tell you if your chain is off.

Given the symptoms you describe I'm betting it is.

Then you get to fix it.

You MAY be able to make the chain skip the teeth on the crank by loosening or removing the tensioner mechanism and then spinning the engine backwards.

It's a rude crude method and if you miss by one tooth you have to go all 'round again......not recommended.
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Old 05-30-2013, 01:45 PM   #3689
SpringheelJack
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Holes in muffler?

So. Hoping this isn't a stupid question. The muffler on my DR has five small partial holes in it. I say partial because it looks like something punched through from the outside, but not totally. Like the "hanging chads" from the Florida election. Four are in a vertical line near the front of the muffler and one is near the end. Diameter is small, perhaps 2-3mm. Doesn't look like rust. My question is only if anyone has any idea if they could have been intentional or not. Anyone ever heard of doing something like this for tuning, instead of drilling out the end or the baffles?

Thanks...

Steve
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1982 CB900F (It was gone, now back again)
1993 Nighthawk 750
1992 DR650 (gone)
2005 DL1000 (gone, sadly)
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Old 05-30-2013, 10:26 PM   #3690
Ladder106
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Some factory silencer will have a small hole included to allow water and moisture to escape before producing internal rust

Have a poke at those holes with an awl or center punch. You don't have to be too aggressive but I'm betting its rust.
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