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Old 06-20-2013, 03:13 AM   #3721
mustangwagz
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Joined: Apr 2012
Location: Western PA
Oddometer: 242
Quote:
Originally Posted by rowie View Post
They are factory fitted. My 90 model has one, so I presume 91 - 95 have them as well
THanks for the info! thats a BIG plus!
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Old 06-21-2013, 05:30 PM   #3722
luigi003
DR 1990
 
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Joined: Nov 2011
Location: Mountain View, CA
Oddometer: 30
Great bike SBG! I'm up to 22k miles on mine
What type of knuckle (hand) cover are you using? I'm looking for a pair white and can't find any aftermarket with that design..
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Old 06-21-2013, 09:51 PM   #3723
SBG
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Joined: May 2004
Location: Rehoboth MA
Oddometer: 351
Those are stockers from a 1996-2013 model. I had the blue stockers on and wanted white. Someone from Australia said they had a pair and sent them to me foc. Awesome guy. Only thing I had to do was drill an extra hole in the left side and run a zipty.



Quote:
Originally Posted by luigi003 View Post
Great bike SBG! I'm up to 22k miles on mine
What type of knuckle (hand) cover are you using? I'm looking for a pair white and can't find any aftermarket with that design..
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SBG screwed with this post 06-22-2013 at 12:48 AM
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Old 06-23-2013, 01:19 AM   #3724
dr_man
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Location: Edmonton, AB
Oddometer: 12
I have 1991 with less than 4000km on it.
No time to ride...
Would post a pic but seem to complicated.
At least for 1.00 am ;).
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:09 PM   #3725
tonusmaximus
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: nky
Oddometer: 441
rejetted the dr couple days ago with the dynojet kit and am very happy with increased power. Cleaned all the orifices with guitar string and cleaner and idles fine but the hesitance off the line is super crappy. Terrible low end and no snap. Gonna drill another hole in the slide and see if it improves. So glad not to start her on every stop light now!!!
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Old 06-26-2013, 09:48 PM   #3726
SBG
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Location: Rehoboth MA
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I believe if you open up the airlock the mixture on the bottom needs to be richer also by way of pilot jet. Mine had that low end hesitation to.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:06 AM   #3727
MartinPetren
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Location: Gothenburg or Uppsala
Oddometer: 326
Hi, I am replacing the piston rings because the bike is burning a lot of oil. At the shop I am buying the rings I see that the rings named "Piston ring set 0,5 O.S" are cheaper than the standard ones. What's the difference? I suppose "O.S" stands for Oversize.. Will they work on a standard piston?



Edit: Sorry for the mighty big picure.. Don't know how to make it smaller.
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Old 07-08-2013, 08:42 AM   #3728
knybanjo
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Joined: May 2006
Location: out in the clover patch
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinPetren View Post
Hi, I am replacing the piston rings because the bike is burning a lot of oil. At the shop I am buying the rings I see that the rings named "Piston ring set 0,5 O.S" are cheaper than the standard ones. What's the difference? I suppose "O.S" stands for Oversize.. Will they work on a standard piston?


Edit: Sorry for the mighty big picure.. Don't know how to make it smaller.
I would guess it means oversize.

One thing that you need to do that if overlooked could lead to a broken ring is to install the ring(s) itself into the bore before putting them on the piston and make sure you have the proper end gaps.
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Old 07-08-2013, 12:13 PM   #3729
Ladder106
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It means the rings are 0.5mm OVERSIZE. Meaning 0.5mm larger than standard. They will NOT fit into a standard cylinder bore and are meant to be used with the 0.5mm oversize piston.

This will require your cylinder to be bored and honed to accomodate the new piston.

You MAY be able to make the OS rings fit the standard piston and bore but the ends of the rings will have to be carefully filed and reduced in size to provide the proper ring end gap. Check your service manual for the correct values.

Rings can break so be very careful if filing the ends.
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Old 07-09-2013, 02:43 AM   #3730
MartinPetren
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Location: Gothenburg or Uppsala
Oddometer: 326
Quote:
Originally Posted by knybanjo View Post
I would guess it means oversize.

One thing that you need to do that if overlooked could lead to a broken ring is to install the ring(s) itself into the bore before putting them on the piston and make sure you have the proper end gaps.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
It means the rings are 0.5mm OVERSIZE. Meaning 0.5mm larger than standard. They will NOT fit into a standard cylinder bore and are meant to be used with the 0.5mm oversize piston.

This will require your cylinder to be bored and honed to accomodate the new piston.

You MAY be able to make the OS rings fit the standard piston and bore but the ends of the rings will have to be carefully filed and reduced in size to provide the proper ring end gap. Check your service manual for the correct values.

Rings can break so be very careful if filing the ends.
Thanks guys, I suppose it's not worth the few bucks I save. I will buy the standard ones :)
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:07 AM   #3731
MartinPetren
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Stumbled across this picture, the muffler looks awesome! Anyone knows what it is?
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Old 07-09-2013, 11:55 AM   #3732
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
Oddometer: 3,210
Quote:
Originally Posted by MartinPetren View Post

Stumbled across this picture, the muffler looks awesome! Anyone knows what it is?
Looks GSXR aftermarket,but I could be wrong.Probably am.
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Old 07-22-2013, 08:27 AM   #3733
Schall87
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Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Brandon, Mississippi
Oddometer: 38
Question Lower Bearing Chain Roller

Ok, I replaced the lower chain roller on my 1994 DR650 with the 34mm
sealed bearing type. It is much smoother, quieter etc.. (Before, with
the OEM roller, I could feel a harsh rattle through the shift lever on
downshifts.)

BUT my chain does not fully line up with the roller itself. I can't
really explain, so I drew a quick picture- Only the outer half of the
chain is rolling on the roller- instead of both sides of the links.. Is this Bad, or Dangerous? If so, How can I correct this?

Here is the pic-

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Old 07-22-2013, 12:16 PM   #3734
MartinPetren
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Location: Gothenburg or Uppsala
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Schall87 View Post
Ok, I replaced the lower chain roller on my 1994 DR650 with the 34mm
sealed bearing type. It is much smoother, quieter etc.. (Before, with
the OEM roller, I could feel a harsh rattle through the shift lever on
downshifts.)

BUT my chain does not fully line up with the roller itself. I can't
really explain, so I drew a quick picture- Only the outer half of the
chain is rolling on the roller- instead of both sides of the links.. Is this Bad, or Dangerous? If so, How can I correct this?

Here is the pic-

Can't you use spacers in between? It will probably last longer if it get's a larger contact area.
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Old 07-22-2013, 12:55 PM   #3735
Ladder106
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Any changes to rear or front sprockets? Different rear wheel? Rear wheel spacers on the correct side of the wheel?

In short, is your chain-line correct?

Seems odd it would be off that much.
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