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Old 09-19-2013, 05:31 PM   #3766
Ladder106
It's a short cut, really
 
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Joined: Jan 2005
Location: Davis, CA
Oddometer: 4,853
Dunno about pricing since the pre-'96 models can kinda be considered "orphans". There's not much aftermarket stuff out there for them and the design was obviously updated in 96. This is likely your best bargaining point.

I would take the one with 17K since it's in good condition. If the owner has done frequent oil changes, has not been too hard on the bike and has other machines, house, cars etc that he takes care of, then the mileage isn't bad at all.

I'm not a fan of guys that throw black rattle-can paint all over there bikes. It pretty much tells me that they don't care much about them and their riding style and lack of maintenance seems to reflect this. 4700 miles can be pretty bad on the bike if it wasn't cared for.

You'll also want to consider chain condition, sprocket wear (particularly the CS sprocket) tires condition etc.

Maybe a bit more info about your area of the world, riding requirements, and budget would be helpful.
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Old 09-20-2013, 06:37 AM   #3767
Unsung
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ladder106 View Post
Maybe a bit more info about your area of the world, riding requirements, and budget would be helpful.
I live in south Mississippi. I don't ride too hard or fast. I need/want a bike I can ride down gravel roads and can carry some camping gear on. I'll ride the bike daily, and on long distances. Budget, trying to find a bike under $2,000.
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Old 09-20-2013, 07:58 AM   #3768
Ladder106
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My 2 cents

Dunno too much about the deep south as I've only been through there twice.

Is rust/humidity a problem for older bikes? If so pay particular attention to the early aluminum rims. Many of these had problems with water entering between the valve stem and the innertube causing corrosion and weakness on the INSIDE of the rim where you can't see it. If the rim looks pitted and weathered on the outside, take a closer look.

In general a big single is not the most comfortable of bikes for long distances. Some folks do just fine with vibration...others hate it. I've done 6 hr days on my DR750 and it's not too bad. However, day 2 or 3 gets a bit trying....just depends on what you want.

I might suggest (and, yes I'm biased and partial) looking for a Honda Transalp (model XL600V). V-twin, reliable, 600cc, very capable on gravel and back country dirt roads. A bit big and heavy on single track (but the DR650 would be also). They were only imported in 89 and 90 so not too many around and good ones normally are about $1000 more than your budget but local prices may vary. Much smoother than a big single. Still quite a bit of stuff out there for modifications and tweaking to be the particular bike you want. Cross-country capable. A few weaknesses that are well documented with common work-arounds. Take a look at the "Show Me Your Transalp Modifications" thread on advrider.

The "what bike is best for me" threads are generally filled with opinions. I'm sure others will jump on this soon
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Old 09-20-2013, 12:28 PM   #3769
Unsung
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I think we may have gotten confused. I've had a dual sport, I know how to ride them, and I'm sure what I'm looking for. I'm just wondering what these two bikes are worth. The one with 17,000 miles, with it having stock exhaust and jetting, would it do alright on the highway?
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Old 09-22-2013, 07:02 AM   #3770
tonusmaximus
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Location: nky
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so I'm doing the valve adjustment and theyre louder than before. prolly hitting the piston. Tdc on compression stroke is just when intake valves are starting to open and the t in inspection window is in center?
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Old 09-22-2013, 08:03 AM   #3771
tonusmaximus
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well I figured out my own prob. rotate another rev past when intakes open. doooooh! but I did see that a header bolt has been broken for some time. do these bikes need header weld ground like others?

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Old 09-22-2013, 10:16 AM   #3772
Ladder106
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That bolt looks too short for that application.

If you're lucky, it might have just pulled one or two threads out of the aluminium head. There may still be good threads deeper in there. Try a longer bolt.

Quote:
Tdc on compression stroke is just when intake valves are starting to open and the t in inspection window is in center?
THAT would be the top of the exhaust stroke...NOT compression TDC. You want to see the intakes open....then close (for the compression stroke) then look for the "T" mark.

I don't think you had valves hitting the piston....but you certainly had a huge gap between the rockers and the cam. I'm surprised the valves opened enough for the engine to run.

You can always put a piece of welding rod or other indicator into the spark plug hole and actually see and feel the piston rising on the compression stroke. Some plug holes are pretty angled so make certain you don't put anything in there that can be broken off and fall down inside.
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Old 09-22-2013, 05:00 PM   #3773
tonusmaximus
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well the old bolt went in and tightened down. it did look as tho it was broken but got snug and im gonna watch it. Ill get to checking
it out when I look at thr header welds. Thanks Ladder. Youre always quick w the help
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Old 09-28-2013, 07:06 AM   #3774
Hoosier Wanderlust
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Rear brake pad?

I've searched this thread and the internet and can't find with certainty sintered metal rear pads for my 1995 DR650.

DP Brakes DP215 is it according to Dennis Kirk. Can anyone confirm this?

Thanks!
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Old 10-04-2013, 03:03 PM   #3775
DURTI
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Cry release pinion removal from clutch cover

Gents,

I am having difficulty removing the clutch release pinion from the clutch cover on my 1990 dr650s. I have taken out the oil seal and rack but am at a loss as to how it pulls out.

Please help,

Thank you.
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Old 10-06-2013, 06:17 AM   #3776
DURTI
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clutch pinion

I got it out... there was a small amount of the old oil seal still holding it in.
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Old 10-11-2013, 11:35 PM   #3777
@ndy
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Question How do I take this bolt out?

Hello, after major thinking and pondering I decided to keep the old DR and attempt a full tear down/rebuild/improvement of my 1991 Dr650RSE.

I almost finish to take the whole thing apart but have a couple of problems...
How do I take the bearings out?
And I just can't figure out how to take this bolt out from the swing arm to the wishbone. It turns and it spins but doesn't unbolt, there is no bolt on the other side to hold it.



Should I use an hammer? ... Just curios if anybody here have any idea... Thanks

@ndy screwed with this post 10-12-2013 at 06:15 PM
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Old 10-12-2013, 01:22 AM   #3778
MartinPetren
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Location: Gothenburg or Uppsala
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pistaMunno View Post
Hello, after major thinking and pondering I decided to keep the old DR and attempt a full tear down/rebuild/improvement of my 1991 Dr650RSE.

I almost finish to take the whole thing apart but have a couple of problems...
How do I take the bearings out?
And I just can't figure out how to take this bolt out from the swing arm to the wishbone. It turns and it spins but doesn't unbolt, there is no bolt on the other side to hold it.



Should I use an hammer? ... Just curios if anybody here have any idea... Thanks
It is a threaded bolt which threads into the swingarm. On the side away from the camera.. Sounds like a stripped thread to me. Try to, carefully, use a hammer and see if it falls out. But if it doesn't you still have threads in there and you should be able to screw it out. If the threads are stripped you could hand it in to shop to do a helicoil repair on it.
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Old 10-12-2013, 05:23 PM   #3779
ben2go
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Joined: Jun 2011
Location: Upstate SC USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pistaMunno View Post
Hello, after major thinking and pondering I decided to keep the old DR and attempt a full tear down/rebuild/improvement of my 1991 Dr650RSE.

I almost finish to take the whole thing apart but have a couple of problems...
How do I take the bearings out?
And I just can't figure out how to take this bolt out from the swing arm to the wishbone. It turns and it spins but doesn't unbolt, there is no bolt on the other side to hold it.



Should I use an hammer? ... Just curios if anybody here have any idea... Thanks
There is a special tool to push those bearings out.Once they are out,don't try to reuse them even if they look ok.Buy new ones.I have used a brass drift to drive them out from the opposite side.As fas as the bolt,I agree with MartinPentren.
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Old 10-13-2013, 01:47 PM   #3780
knybanjo
kinda slow
 
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Location: out in the clover patch
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Had the old DR out to play @ the Nottarally last weekend.







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