Starting Problem with a 1980 Honda CX500

[alexk243]

Alright so I am trying to fix my dad's 1980 Honda CX500 and I am having the weirdest problems.

What happened: Ran out of gas away from home and would not restart on reserve. Added fuel and still will not start.

What I have done: Cleaned the Carbs completly (there is not a spec of dust in them), Replaced Plugs, Checked spark (both plugs have spark), Checked Valves for sticking (everything appears to work fine, no sticking)

Whats Happening now: Wont start, wont sputter, I am getting absolutly nothing. Even when I shoot carb cleaner and starter fluid into the cylinders and carbs I dont even get a sputter.

I am at a loss here, I dont know what to do now. I figured it would at least sputter and I could go from there. Any ideas would help me out cause I am stuck.

[Sniper X]

ave you checked to see if it is getting sparky?

[alexk243]

Yea, pulled the plugs and touched them to the head and visibly saw spark on both plugs.

[Sniper X]

Hm, maybe a side stand safety switch, or a clutch safety switch. Try jumping both and try to start it again.

[Sniper X]

You sure the petcocks didn't get restricted to the point where they arent working? Have you checked to see if they flow gas when the fuel line from them to the carby is removed? A bike won't start (I dont think) on starting fluid alone....

[alexk243]

I kinda figured it would at least struggle to start, ya know? like sputter cause its a flammible liquid being added to a spark, but i could be wrong. Yea I am actually running it off of an IV like tank hung from the ceiling strait to the carbs so the tank isnt even on the bike.

[alexk243]

Originally Posted by Sniper X

Hm, maybe a side stand safety switch, or a clutch safety switch. Try jumping both and try to start it again.

Wouldnet these safety switches just cut spark? so if I am getting spark I could rule out these, correct? or no?

[mnd]

Have you opened the carb float bowl drains to verify the presence of fuel?

[alexk243]

Originally Posted by mnd

Have you opened the carb float bowl drains to verify the presence of fuel?

Yea and it flows out really well on both when the IV bag is attached and open.

[Sniper X]

Originally Posted by alexk243

Wouldnet these safety switches just cut spark? so if I am getting spark I could rule out these, correct? or no?

I am not sure how they keep the motor from starting, but I remember when My GSXR would not start, it was the one on the kickstand and I seem to remember being way baffled until I shorted that switch and then it fired right up.

[mnd]

Originally Posted by alexk243

Yea and it flows out really well on both when the IV bag is attached and open.

Ok, my next step would be to clean the spark plug caps. They have a resistor element inside and can benefit from periodic cleaning (and dielectric grease.)

Pull the plug wire, look inside the connector and see the contact that engages the plug terminal. It's round, has a hole in it and a slot. Unscrew it using a small flat head screwdriver.

More details here: http://globalcxglvtwins.hostingdeliv...c.php?f=8&t=84

[Sniper X]

have you checked compression? It's easy on that bike....

[mnd]

Originally Posted by Sniper X

I am not sure how they keep the motor from starting, but I remember when My GSXR would not start, it was the one on the kickstand and I seem to remember being way baffled until I shorted that switch and then it fired right up.

No side-stand switch on the 80 model CX.

I've seen a bad contact in the handlebar kill switch that was diagnosed by unplugging the black & white wire at the bullet connector under the seat. When this wire is grounded it shuts off the CDI.

If the OP has spark then that isn't the problem. (Be very careful testing for spark on a CDI system. Never run the ignition without providing each plug wire a path to ground.)

[alexk243]

Originally Posted by mnd

No side-stand switch on the 80 model CX.

I've seen a bad contact in the handlebar kill switch that was diagnosed by unplugging the black & white wire at the bullet connector under the seat. When this wire is grounded it shuts off the CDI.

If the OP has spark then that isn't the problem. (Be very careful testing for spark on a CDI system. Never run the ignition without providing each plug wire a path to ground.)

So what we have decided is that if I have spark then I dont need to check/short the safety switches?

[alexk243]

I read that article on the spark plug caps and that would seem to make sense. If spark was iffy, but visible it may have something to do with being too weak. I am going to take a look at it now.