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Old 09-12-2010, 03:19 PM   #1
MojaveSidecar OP
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Pissed Need help with Drill Bit stuck in KLR frame

Hi All

I was on one the last steps of installing my dauntless lower sidecar motor mounts on my KLR.
The step I was working on was drilling out the motor mount holes in the frame front downtube to accept slightly larger bolts.
I had sucessfully drilled out the holes from right to left using a 3/8" bit.
It was hard work and the bits did get a little warm...but the bit made it through OK.
The replacement bolts slipped in but were snug.

So I went around to the left side of the bike and ran the bit from left to right.
The bit ran though the bottom hole no problem.
The top hole was snug, but I was able to run the bit in and out about 2 times...... on the third pass,
the bit lock up as shown in these pics..




I tried using Liquid Wrench and beating on the bit with a ballpeen hammer.
I tried twisting it out with a Knippex pliers.... but that puppy is stuck in there....
I was starting to panic and wail on with my 3lb sledge hammer.... but instead,
i decided to walk away, take a quick shower and post here and in HACKS....

Any of you machinists out there have any advice/idea how to get that bit out?

TIA

Randy from Burbank
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Old 09-12-2010, 03:36 PM   #2
P B G
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I'd be tempted to chuck it in my most powerful drill, tighten the chuck w/ the key tightly, then try to run it back in reverse while persuading it with light taps on the fluted end.
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:05 PM   #3
uraldog
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let it cool down -- it may come out easy then if not-- heat the frame slightly -- NOT red hot or anywhere near that hot --NOT HOT ENOUGH to untemper the tubing-- just enough to expand the metal to release the bit == you may have to smack it out with a sharp blow with a hammer -- good luck
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:24 PM   #4
kb5zcr
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No offense, but you are using a drill bit made for wood and not metal, it's not made to cut metal.

It will come out of the frame.

Use a pair a "vise grips" on it and twist it out like it went in. Turn it counter clockwise to "unscrew" it.

You may need a big hammer, no, not a carpenter hammer, a ball peen hammer and hammer on the tip as you twist with the vise grip.

If you use heat (small torch), heat the frame and not the bit, the frame hole will get bigger and the bit will slide out.

Good luck,
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:36 PM   #5
DonD
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If you go whacking on the bit please use eye protection!
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:42 PM   #6
MojaveSidecar OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kb5zcr
No offense, but you are using a drill bit made for wood and not metal, it's not made to cut metal.

It will come out of the frame.

Use a pair a "vise grips" on it and twist it out like it went in. Turn it counter clockwise to "unscrew" it.

You may need a big hammer, no, not a carpenter hammer, a ball peen hammer and hammer on the tip as you twist with the vise grip.

If you use heat (small torch), heat the frame and not the bit, the frame hole will get bigger and the bit will slide out.

Good luck,
No offense taken... I realize now I need to learn alot more about drills, bits and other such things.... acquiring this kind of knowhow is part of the almost year long journey I have been on with this project.

I went out and tried the Knippex again and it looks like I got about a 1/32 of a turn so I dont think the bit is fused in the frame.. but I did have to put all my muscle in it to get it to move.... I will try the visegrips next.

Randy from Burbank
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Old 09-12-2010, 04:48 PM   #7
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I'd grab the shank end of the bit with two of the biggest vice grips that fit on there. Spin it out counter-clockwise, as already mentioned.

PB Blaster as a penetrating lube may help. Spray some on there, tap the end of the bit with a hammer and let it sit for a few hours or overnight.

If all else fails, you could file or Dremel down the shank into a square to REALLY get some leverage on it, but that's a worst case scenario, don't do it unless absolutely necessary. If it snaps off you're really in for it.
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Old 09-12-2010, 05:48 PM   #8
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Laugh Success

Got it out!!!
Thanks for all your help.....

The steps that worked for me....

Stop the panic and take a step back....
took a quick shower and had a few beers
posted on the boards and asked for help from experts...

Hit it with liquid wrench a couple of times....
Went out a couple of hours later and tried to turn with visegrips CCW.
It moved a tiny bit.... repeated and it started to move easier..and easier..

Finally hooked up the drill and spun it out...

SUCCESS..... Thanks everybody for all your help.

And I learned the difference between wood and metal drill bits..
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Old 09-12-2010, 06:35 PM   #9
reelfish
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Next time you need to enlarge a hole use a reamer not a drill bit. If a drill bit is all you can get use a quality drill bit not one you would buy from home depot but one from a industreal tool store. All so get one that is cobalt Hss not just Hss ( high speed steel ).
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:05 PM   #10
rebake
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Be sure to post pics when you are done.Friend of mine has a klr with a sputnick sidecar on it.Very cool little rig. Ed
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Old 09-12-2010, 07:53 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rebake
Be sure to post pics when you are done.Friend of mine has a klr with a sputnick sidecar on it.Very cool little rig. Ed
The saga of my experience trying to get this rig on the road is covered here...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=444302

My recent noob experience with learning how to ride one of these beasts is covered here... including some video of me blowing a righthander...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613143

On the plus side I did finally get the lower mounts to line up correctly... with a little luck, I should have this rig on the road by next weekend..

Thanks everybody for you help with this....

Randy from Burbank
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Old 09-12-2010, 08:04 PM   #12
LuciferMutt
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Any time you are drilling metal, keep the cutting speed low and use some kind of cutting lubricant. WD-40 works fine for hobby/home mechanic stuff like this.

As you now also know, make sure you are using a bit that is made for cutting metal. The tool geometry for pure wood bits is far too aggressive for hard materials like steel and has the tenancy to "suck" bits into the work and jam them...as you found out the hard way
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Old 09-12-2010, 10:08 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KLRbach
My recent noob experience with learning how to ride one of these beasts is covered here... including some video of me blowing a righthander...

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=613143
Red took me by that corner when I was up there last week. The video doesn't show the steepness of the corner. It would have been a hard one to make if you were carrying a little too much speed.
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Old 09-13-2010, 06:22 AM   #14
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Thanks for sharing this and providing a photo. It brightened my Monday seeing that bit stuck in the frame. I was even more glad to see you got it out.

I couldn't get the bead to pop after wrestling a Ural tire onto a the spare rim this weekend and had to do the "step back and breathe" technique. Always good advice.

Windex on the bead and way more air than I thought safe for the tube/tire rating did the trick. Glad we have the Internet!
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Old 09-17-2010, 02:03 PM   #15
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Hi Randy, how you doin ... Long time ... No see.

Still riding the Valk? I upgraded my Valk Interstate to a Harley RG Ultra.

You going to be at the Griffith Park Sidecar Rally? I plan to be there with my Goldwing hack
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