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Old 10-27-2010, 08:23 AM   #31
Pablo83 OP
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I've heard of battery elimination kits. What do they do and where do I get one?

The battery on the DR250S only weighs 3 lb 12 oz, but it's still weight I'd like to get rid of. There is no starter on the bike and I don't need to turn on the headlight when the bike is off, so the only thing the battery is good for is keeping the headlight steady at an idle. Will a battery elimination kit do this?
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:05 AM   #32
tdrrally
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i used a 4700micro fared capicitor on my dr350s years back
you can buy them at rat shack

works great as long as the bike is running

the forks are the same as a drz250 if i recall
i think xr400 too
and the springs are the same as dr650
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Old 10-27-2010, 09:06 AM   #33
plugeye
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
I've heard of battery elimination kits. What do they do and where do I get one?

The battery on the DR250S only weighs 3 lb 12 oz, but it's still weight I'd like to get rid of. There is no starter on the bike and I don't need to turn on the headlight when the bike is off, so the only thing the battery is good for is keeping the headlight steady at an idle. Will a battery elimination kit do this?
if your CDI will allow it to start & run without a battery, yes you can eliminate the battery. you can buy one as advertised or save some money & buy a capacitor. thats all the eliminator is anyway.
if i recall correctly, a 22,000 ufd 35volt electrolytic should do the trick.
running this on my 79 xt500 6-volt system without issue.
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:04 AM   #34
Pablo83 OP
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Thanks guys, I'll give it a try.
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Old 10-27-2010, 11:09 AM   #35
Pablo83 OP
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Pegs

I got some weld-on peg extensions




Normally you would just weld these around the existing spikes, but I want to try and keep things light so I cut off the old spikes first. I had to leave some of them to help me properly locate the new ones.




I offset them slightly to the rear since I'm a tall guy. After some welding:




And some bracing:




Stock vs modified:



One down, one to go.



[NOTE from 9/13/11]: since installing these, I've absolutely mangled them. The DR has a lower foot peg height than other dirt bikes I'm used to and the pegs tend to hit lots of rocks on more technical trails. I'll be replacing these this winter with solid cast pegs of some sort.

Pablo83 screwed with this post 09-13-2011 at 07:56 PM
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Old 10-28-2010, 02:39 PM   #36
yondering
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Where did you get the foot peg extensions? I've been thinking of those for my bike.
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Old 10-28-2010, 03:17 PM   #37
Pablo83 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yondering
Where did you get the foot peg extensions? I've been thinking of those for my bike.

Near the bottom of the page

http://www.procycle.us/bikepages/dr350.html
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:42 PM   #38
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Thanks, I was hoping it was somewhere else. $30 for two weld-on strips of steel seems a little steep; I'd rather make my own.
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Old 11-01-2010, 10:47 AM   #39
Pablo83 OP
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Before I start welding the swingarm I'd like to pull the bearings out. The Clymer manual says to use a drift to tap them out from the opposite side, but it looks like they are set in a recess that doesn't allow them to be drifted out. An I missing something?

How do I get the swingarm bearings out?
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Old 11-01-2010, 02:57 PM   #40
cruiserbrett
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blind hole bearing puller. harbor freight has one for a reasonable price. Check Distechs dr350 rebuild thread, he covers this...

-Brett

Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83
Before I start welding the swingarm I'd like to pull the bearings out. The Clymer manual says to use a drift to tap them out from the opposite side, but it looks like they are set in a recess that doesn't allow them to be drifted out. An I missing something?

How do I get the swingarm bearings out?
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Old 11-01-2010, 05:06 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cruiserbrett
blind hole bearing puller. harbor freight has one for a reasonable price. Check Distechs dr350 rebuild thread, he covers this...

-Brett
Thanks Brett, I found it. My guess is the bearing puller would damage the bearing and require them to be replaced. My bearings seem to be in great shape so maybe I'll go ahead and weld up the swingarm and recheck the bearings after to see if they are still usable.
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Old 11-01-2010, 06:51 PM   #42
DisTech
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Brett beat me to it. If the bearings have been serviced and not corroded in place like some of mine were, I think the puller would get them out without damage. Then again if you are sure they are in good shape, why pull them?

Looking forward to seeing how you box the swingarm.
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Old 11-03-2010, 04:28 PM   #43
MrPulldown
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You should just get the volar sport (?) ones off of e-bay for $20.

http://mrpulldown.blogspot.com/2010/...passenger.html
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Old 11-03-2010, 05:21 PM   #44
Pablo83 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrPulldown
You should just get the volar sport (?) ones off of e-bay for $20.

http://mrpulldown.blogspot.com/2010/...passenger.html
That's a great price. I'm surprised they can make them that cheap.
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Old 11-04-2010, 10:51 PM   #45
MrPulldown
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China

Noticed you said that the 350 has larger axles? Whouldn't that make the wheels different? Can you simple stick the 350 axles into the 250?
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