Pablo's DR350

[das ist gut]

Originally Posted by Pablo83

I think someone asked a while back if I could copy the pattern for the pieces to box the swingarm. I just found those patterns. If you still want them, post up.

yes, I would like to see the pattern.
I am sending my email separately

thank you Pablo

[MrPulldown]

Originally Posted by Pablo83

I replaced the battery with a 2200 uf capacitor rated for 35V (RadioShack, $5).
Sorry, no pictures, but it's an easy process: cut the battery leads, solder in the capacitor (note the + and - sides on the cap), and wrap it all in elec tape. It worked great, at idle the headlight doesn't flicker at all.

[NOTE] Late last summer, my neutral light stopped working below 4k RPM and my RPM gauge was acting funny was well. I turned out to be a broken connection with the cap. I've made the new connection more durable so hopefully I won't have the problem again.

Buy one of these and wire it in. That is it?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Ele...item1c174bbe3b

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

[xathor]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Buy one of these and wire it in. That is it?


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-of-2-Ele...item1c174bbe3b

Any other tips. How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying. Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

I wouldn't worry about discharging the cap into yourself and dying. At the 12 to 14 volts that you would be putting into the cap you could easily touch both ends with licked fingers and not feel a thing.

If I were you guys and were thinking about doing this, I would solder the capacitor to a piece of PCB and then solder much larger leads so that the wires weren't directly tugging on the thin capacitor leads.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/RadioShack-P...588#vi-content

Something like that, then drill a much larger gauge hole for the leads the connect to where the battery was.

[Pablo83]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Buy one of these and wire it in. That is it?

Yep. I found one at Radio Shack that had the leads on opposite ends which made it a little easier to work with.

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Any other tips.

There is a + and - side to the cap. Be sure to install it like you would a battery.

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

How do you prevent discharging the cap into you and dying.

You can short the two ends with a screwdriver blade or put some type of load on it, like turning on the headlight without the engine running.

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Would a bigger rating of uF or a smaller one of volts be better?

I have no clue. 2200uF was recommended somewhere else (I forget where) and it has worked well for me so far.

[Pablo83]

1990 DR250S (wide ratio) transmission on eBay, $95:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400448012004...84.m1423.l2649

This winter has really been great for finding some of the more rare parts that I used on my bike. I now have 1 spare oil cooler and 2 spare trannys for my bike, and another one just popped up on eBay. Anyone can feel free to grab it. I would buy it at that price if I didn't have enough extras all ready.

[Wadester]

Originally Posted by Pablo83

1990 DR250S (wide ratio) transmission on eBay, $95:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400448012004...84.m1423.l2649

This winter has really been great for finding some of the more rare parts that I used on my bike. I now have 1 spare oil cooler and 2 spare trannys for my bike, and another one just popped up on eBay. Anyone can feel free to grab it. I would buy it at that price if I didn't have enough extras all ready.

Got it! Thanks!

[MrPulldown]

Is there any issue running the 250 granny in a electric start 350 case?

[Pablo83]

Originally Posted by MrPulldown

Is there any issue running the 250 granny in a electric start 350 case?

Neither of my bikes where elec start, so I don't know. Is there any difference between the 350 kicker tranny and the 350 SE tranny? If not, I bet the 250 tranny would work just fine.