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Old 02-03-2011, 09:30 PM   #121
Pablo83 OP
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Skidplate

On the DR350 thread I asked for skidplate recommendations. Shearboy suggested the Ricochet plate since it used the stock mounting holes. I hate those bolt-on brackets that clip to the frame, so I thought the Ricochet would be great. I ordered it and it was on my doorstep 48 hours later (wow!).

Unfortunately it only used the front two stock mount holes and had the clip brackets for the rear (I hate those things). I felt the need to complain, so I went back to the DR thread to post a reply and I noticed that Shearboys original post clearly stated how the skidplate was mounted, I just didn't pay good attention.

I email Ricochet to ask what alloy the plate's made from. They use 5052; the same high-strength alloy I used to box the rear swingarm. Since I had some extra 5052 around, I decided to add some brackets so it will use all the stock mounting points.

Stock plate:


Mounting points:


Finished plate (I also drilled some more holes in it because I seem to be obsessed with that sort of thing):


This plate weighs exactly 1 lb more than the stock one.


Pablo83 screwed with this post 02-08-2011 at 09:50 AM
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Old 02-03-2011, 09:40 PM   #122
cruiserbrett
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Yep. I have the clark tank too and it bugs me. I did come across a thread about installing a 4 stroke snowmobile fuel pump on a klx to get fuel otherwise unuseable with a gravity setup:

here

I think I might try it. Its at least a good reserve...

Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
I should have done a little more research in the oversized-tank department. I ordered the Clarke tank. After I ordered it I read some reviews and everyone recommends the Acerbis tank, and no one recommends the Clarke. Here's one of the reasons: the last half gallon-or-so of gas is unusable. You can see the remaining gas in the tank is below the petcock, so unless you can wheelie your way to the gas station, you're just carrying around extra weight. I hate extra weight.

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Old 02-03-2011, 11:22 PM   #123
shearboy2004
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
On the DR350 thread I asked for skidplate recommendations. Shearboy suggested the Ricochet plate since it used the stock mounting holes. I hate those bolt-on brackets that clip to the frame, so I thought the Ricochet would be great. I ordered it and it was on my doorstep 48 hours later (wow!).

Unfortunately it only used the front two stock mount holes and had the clip brackets for the rear (I hate those things). I felt the need to complain, so I went back to the DR thread to post a reply and I noticed that Shearboys original post clearly stated how the skidplate was mounted, I just didn't pay good attention.

I email Ricochet to ask what alloy the plate's made from. They use 5052; the same high-strength alloy I used to box the rear swingarm. Since I had some extra 5052 around, I decided to add some brackets so it will use all the stock mounting points.

Stock plate:


Mounting points:


Finished plate (I also drilled some more holes in it because I'm good at that):


I'll post a pic of it mounted when it cools down.
Nice work Mate ! I too absolutely hate those stupid mounting clips .
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Old 02-04-2011, 06:33 AM   #124
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post

Notice the headlight is on. Without a battery, that's got to mean the engine's running... nice! It started on about the fourth kick.
love it. no battery = nirvana
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Old 02-04-2011, 08:23 AM   #125
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Quote:
Originally Posted by plugeye View Post
love it. no battery = nirvana
I replaced the battery with a 2200 uf capacitor rated for 35V (RadioShack, $5).
Sorry, no pictures, but it's an easy process: cut the battery leads, solder in the capacitor (note the + and - sides on the cap), and wrap it all in elec tape. It worked great, at idle the headlight doesn't flicker at all.

[NOTE] Late last summer, my neutral light stopped working below 4k RPM and my RPM gauge was acting funny was well. I turned out to be a broken connection with the cap. I've made the new connection more durable so hopefully I won't have the problem again.

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Old 02-04-2011, 09:05 AM   #126
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
I should have done a little more research in the oversized-tank department. I ordered the Clarke tank. After I ordered it I read some reviews and everyone recommends the Acerbis tank, and no one recommends the Clarke. Here's one of the reasons: the last half gallon-or-so of gas is unusable. You can see the remaining gas in the tank is below the petcock, so unless you can wheelie your way to the gas station, you're just carrying around extra weight. I did some weighing; the tank holds 2 lb, 1 oz of useless fuel. I hate extra weight.

I think I've seen some posts here where people lay the bike on the ground to access that gas.

Not something you'd want to do on a regular basis, but good to know in an emergency.
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Old 02-04-2011, 09:38 AM   #127
Trailrider200
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super brace

they need a dr350 for measurements and will give u a free one

http://www.superbrace.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3306
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Old 02-04-2011, 12:47 PM   #128
Pablo83 OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Trailrider200 View Post
they need a dr350 for measurements and will give u a free one

http://www.superbrace.com/proddetail.asp?prod=3306
Yes, I sent them and email a while back asking if I could ship my front end to them to have a brace made, but I got no reply. I need to call them.
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Old 02-05-2011, 10:26 AM   #129
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clutch problems

The problem with with clutch is that the hub is binding on the shaft (it's supposed to spin free). Both the Clymer and the factory manuals says the clutch bolt should be 29-44 ft-lb (this is a suspiciously large range). With the bolt torqued to 25 ft-lb the hub spins free. At 29 ft-lb you can feel a slight drag. At 40 it's binding pretty hard. I've been over the assembly many times to make sure I have the washers and sleeve in the right place.

Any ideas?
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Old 02-05-2011, 12:35 PM   #130
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pablo83 View Post
The problem with with clutch is that the hub is binding on the shaft (it's supposed to spin free). Both the Clymer and the factory manuals says the clutch bolt should be 29-44 ft-lb (this is a suspiciously large range). With the bolt torqued to 25 ft-lb the hub spins free. At 29 ft-lb you can feel a slight drag. At 40 it's binding pretty hard. I've been over the assembly many times to make sure I have the washers and sleeve in the right place.

Any ideas?

I replied to your question on the 350 thread but will say it again here to make sure you catch it. I think that this is a common problem with these bikes and the solution is to machine the back of the basket to remove a small amount of materiel. If you search the DR350 page I think you will find the exact specs on how much to remove. Given that problem gets worse the more you torque it down I think that this make sense.
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Old 02-05-2011, 01:39 PM   #131
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jessepitt View Post
I replied to your question on the 350 thread but will say it again here to make sure you catch it. I think that this is a common problem with these bikes and the solution is to machine the back of the basket to remove a small amount of materiel. If you search the DR350 page I think you will find the exact specs on how much to remove. Given that problem gets worse the more you torque it down I think that this make sense.
Just what I had to do too.

My write up with pics is post #21:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showt...=377545&page=2
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:21 PM   #132
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Thanks a lot guys. After I made that post this morning I went back to the shop and started doing a lot of measuring on the clutch components. The sleeves off both bikes measure 29.18mm. The depth of the 98 DR350 basket was 29.20mm and the 91 DR250S was 29.22. This really didn't make much sense.

I also found that the thrust washers (from both bikes) have small grooves worn in them from contact with the sleeve so I ordered new washers and sleeves. After a lot of thought I decided I should put the basket on the belt sander an try to take it down a couple hundredths of a mm. It was a reluctant choice. I've very glad to see that others have had the same problem and came up with the same solution.

The DR250S basket now sits at 29.20mm and I will wait until the new sleeve and bearings come in before I take it down any farther.

This is all starting to make a lot of sense to me; even before this build, both bikes had clunky shifting and were difficult to find neutral. Hopefully this will take care of the problem.

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Old 02-05-2011, 02:22 PM   #133
Pablo83 OP
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Clutch issues

Drif10 has done a wonderful writeup on how to fix this problem.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Drif10 View Post
So I had my clutch basket binding after a re-assembly. Some surfing got me this thread, as well as some on TT and Max-zuke, talking about having to shave some off the basket to get the adequate clearance.

The above pdf was no longer available, so I went ahead with the job, and figured I'd add to the knowledge base here.

What happens that when you tighten the clutch basket nut to the proscribed torque (40-60 NM), the inner basket should turn freely. Mine wasn't. As described by others, the inner and outer thrust washers combined with the spacer collar was not allowing things to rotate properly.

Here's the assembly in place:



That's a MotionPro clutch holder, a very useful tool for more than just what it was intended for. Not expensive, but a must have in any bike wrencher's toolbox. Get one now, even if you don't need it right away, you'll find it's really handy for a lot of things.

The holder is clamped on the inner basket, you can see the nut and tabbed lock washer in the center. Minus the holder, that part should spin freely. If it doesn't, here's what you do:

You'll need a couple of sheets of new emery cloth. I taped mine down to my workbench so that I could start slowly polishing down the gear on the back of the outer basket. This would normally face towards the transmission.

Here is the work station, and you can see the gear, end face already shiny after a few passes:





In a random circular pattern, I proceeded to slowly grind down the end face. You're only taking off a few thousand's of an inch, but it's a hardened gear, so it ain't fast.

I would clean it off, re=oil the whole thing, torque it back in place, and see if it was spinning freely. Can't put material back, so I took my time.

I also took a small piece of emery cloth and polished down the face on the other side, where the other thrust washer rides:



You can see it there as the two half moon shapes either side of the shaft hole.


Works great now. Make sure before every check you clean off all the grit and re-oil it generously, so as to not get a false reading. Ain't fast, but this works.

Hope this helps someone.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=21
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Old 02-05-2011, 02:25 PM   #134
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shearboy2004 View Post
Nice work Mate ! I too absolutely hate those stupid mounting clips .
Next time you and your bike are near Woodland Park, stop by and well weld some brackets on.
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Old 02-05-2011, 03:08 PM   #135
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I saw someone's comment that they had installed a DR250 CDI on their 350. Is there any advantage to that?
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