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Old 09-19-2010, 02:21 AM   #31
Africa, Africa
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Joined: Jun 2006
Location: Dunedin. New Zealand
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Originally Posted by SpecialAgentNancy
Well I've not seen the Eastern side of the South Island when I visited a few years back and missed milford sound due to a ton of rainfall....might make it back again. :)
You definitely need to come back and see the rest of the South Island.... :)
I would even turn myself into your personal tour guide.
Bring a helmet, February and March are the best months to visit. And then we'll do Africa.
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:24 AM   #32
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Great report + photos how every shot you're in you have a beaming smile
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:11 AM   #33
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Cool!! your travel mate is very lucky!! :)

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Old 09-19-2010, 10:56 AM   #34
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Really enjoyed looking though your photos!
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:25 AM   #35
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Russian Military dirt road built during WWI

The best part of our trip was to come...the previous day we tried to tackle the mountain range that blocks the incoming moisture from the Black Sea into Turkey so the winds are torrential. We finally decided to turn back and stay the night in a flea hotel in Bayburt but not before getting a photo of the wind holding me up.

The hotel did let us park the bikes in the lobby which helped us sleep better.

Here is the road going down into the valley, as you can see we have no idea what we are about to get into.

Sheer drops

Jagged outcroppings

Good dirt road but narrow

Snakes along the peak

As we get lower in the valley we see more and more of the road.

Lot of waterfalls and run off's

You can see the work in the road walls here

At this point I'm saying "wow" quite a's 100 shades of green

I had a whoops at this turn, fair amount of mud because it's so muggy

So why do riders make better left turns than right?

I took so many photos I actually drained my camera battery

It was nice to finally see women out of the house and she didn't refuse the photo.

I had brought treats for kids as gifts and was so happy to have them to give out to these darlings

The mountains are so steep that they build these for gardens

It's about 50km of winding, steep, hairpin turns on dirt and mud but just glorious. We were a little sad to be leaving...

More awesome rock formations.

It's just beautiful everywhere you look!

But I have to say after so many hours of nervous turns I was happy to see pavement
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:47 AM   #36
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What fun this is, Nancy! I'm headed this way in the spring, and hoping for a detailed route map or highlight directions of some sort. Got one coming up?
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:11 AM   #37
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Nice report, Nancy!!
Be sure the safest rule is that we should not dare to live in any scene in which we dare not die. ~Lewis Carroll~
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:23 PM   #38
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GPS tracks`

Yes I posted everything on my spot advendures page.
Or just type in spagentnancy and you'll find it.
Now I can't say this loud enough, take the road North from Bayburt to Uzungol, the one I just posted about (Russian Military road), start in the early morning and don't do it if it's raining, it's already a little muddy from all the run off but this is a spectacular ride, one of my top ten of all times now. A MUST.
Or you can ping LukeKTM and he'll give you his GPS stuff, including the guerilla camp we had in the middle of the mountain range South of Lake Van, also a must.
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:38 PM   #39
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your report brings so many good memories from turkey.
thank you so much.

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Old 09-20-2010, 12:57 PM   #40
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Sumela Monastary and one scary hunter

Next stop Trabzon whom everyone said was the ugliest of cities and boy where they right. Stopped at a roadside restaurant on the water.

Yes another Kebab, after which we headed to Sumela Monastry and Big Red found a boyfriend!

A 97 F650 just like mine back home.

We met the riders as we were walking up to the Monastary, another Italian couple sorry no photo (yet)

Now I love how Turkey will charge you twice to see an attraction. Once at the entrance (fee to drive on the road to the place) another fee at the entrance of the site (to actually enter into the landmark)

they are "renovating" this too which means they photograph the murals then plaster over them then repaint!!!

Don't know about you but I'd rather see the original no matter the condition than a re-do

Beautiful view of valley below

Here is the window I photographed from

goofing off, again....

Awesome tree on path

Rode back to the same restaurant for dinner.
And I finally broke into my emergency mac n cheese because they let me cook in their kitchen. (I was on my 4th day of stomach cramps and Luke went through all my medicine) It worked, I was feeling good the next day.

Now this man invited us to his home for the night. He talked about hunting and that he rode motorcycles too so after Volkan translated (he didn't speak English, French or Bulgarian) we decided to accept his offer.

Here is where the story takes a scary turn.

It's night, about 9pm. We are riding on the highway, then we exit, ride through neighborhoods, then start to leave the lighted streets for an unlit dirt road. I'm starting to imagine a group of guys waiting for us around a turn hiding in the bushes. Then we get to a steep loose dirt section where Luke goes up almost lifting the front of his KTM and I didn't make it so I slide back down (but didn't lay the bike down)...
then our host comes down the hill and offers to ride my bike up and as soon as he gets on, promptly knocks it down and gives me a new set of bruises in the process.

We arrive at his house, scared as hell, no neighbors, no lights and wondering what the hell we got into.

Then he starts to show us his guns (loaded guns that is). Here is the room I slept in and see the gun leaning against the wall in the corner, I said I am sleeping in the loaded gun room.

Everything turned out fine but still didn't sleep too well....then a small hickup happened. I couldn't find my dark face shield for my helmet and told Luke we had to go back 30 KM to the restaurant to see if it fell off the bike.

Well it wasn't to be found so we got back on the road. All the 60KM I was thinking what a shame it was that we never got the contact info from the Italian couple because I figured they were going on the same route as us and low and behold we met up with them at a gas station!

As we worked out way to Sinop the water became clearer

Luke spotted this awesome campsite before town right on the beach

Being Ramadan, it was deserted, we were their only guests.

Went swimming, finally!

Turkish baywatch

Cleaned up and went into town to a restaurant the camping owner suggested and after getting ripped off on our lousy meal he took us to the top where we enjoyed the view and tea.

The next day was Amasra and we met a group of motorcycle riders that were support for a bicycle race.

The road was super twisty and gorgeous

Now this is my favorite photo of the whole trip. This critter was in the middle of the dirt road and I just had to say hello (and help him across)

We stopped for quite possibly the 2nd best meal of the trip at a restaurant on the water in Cide

Arrived at Amasra just as sunset

Can you see that my horns glow in the dark?

Finally found some real Turkish ice cream

And a strong drink
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:30 PM   #41
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You are "SPECIAL" agent nancy
What a woman
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:47 PM   #42
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A killer RR Nancy, thanks for the photos only someone on a bike would take.
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Old 09-20-2010, 04:57 PM   #43
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Hey Nancy
Im sorry we didnt get to meet up in TR, altho we went to alot of the same places, & when you guys were at Ararat, I was about 30km away in Armenia, but that turns into 600km away, as you cant go to TR from ARM.

I also didnt care much for alot of the kids in the east. pain in the ass lil bastards.

but the scenery was awesome!

Luke is coming here this weekend, will be good to see him again

My bike hotel in Bulgaria. ADVriders get 1st beer free!

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Old 09-20-2010, 06:17 PM   #44
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& your little dog 2!
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Hey Doug!

Yeah I was really bummed you could not join us, I remember when Luke explained how close you were but in actuality how far. Don't feel bad, the Greek's turned me back at the border and tacked on an extra 100km.

Coming back next spring for another 3 weeks along the Aegean and Southern coast, combining riding with scuba diving so please keep me on the radar as I need a riding partner.
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:19 PM   #45
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Great photos of your trip. I was wondering what the rain suit is that you are waring in the photo where you are being held up by the wind.
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