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Old 09-19-2010, 09:56 AM   #16
BigFeet
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In!

HF,

Subscribed for sure!

Thanks for another already excellent article!

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Old 09-19-2010, 11:01 AM   #17
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Yep, this is another one of those, how much is this going to cost me if it turns out good and I want one!!
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Old 09-19-2010, 12:23 PM   #18
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Now, let's get some more stuff out of the way so we can move the engine.

Remove the skid plate, if you have one.



Remove the rear brake pedal.



This pedal is held on by a threaded clevis pin which has a rather unique clip on the back side. You'll have to crawl under there where you can see it, to figure out how to unclip it. Kind of strange, but works very well. And unhook the two springs out front:



There is an upper one, and a lower one. Pay attention to how these are positioned before removing....so you'll know where to put them back on. Here are all the attachment parts in my hand:



Note that flat washer. VERY IMPORTANT: it goes between your brake pedal and the frame.....not on the backside by the clip. Its easy to miss this washer, if you don't realize its behind there when you remove the pedal. Next thing you know, there is a washer on the floor....and you don't know where it came from. The washer is needed to ease rotation of the pedal, keeping it from rubbing into the frame.

Now, move to the other side and remove the chain:



If you don't have a masterlink clip, just slide your adjusters forward (loosen the chain) and roll it off the sprockets to get it off the motor. Next, let's remove the gear shift lever.





That bolt hole on the shifter can be hard to get to. Its a Hex-head bolt and you come at it from the bottom side. Easier if you have a long hex (allen head) extension for a 1/4" socket wrench. But you can move the shifter up with one head....holding it steady.....while you loosen the bolt with the other.

I'm getting these things (brake pedal & shifter) off the motor because I'm about to rotate the entire engine downward (in the frame) and I don't want these parts "in the way"....limiting the rotation.

There are two ways to perform this cylinder replacement: 1) leave the engine on the bike 2) remove the engine entirely from the bike....and do it on a bench. Each way has its advantages & disadvantages. I'm older & wiser (some say lazier)....and chose to leave the motor hooked to the frame. The cool design of this WRR leaves just enough room to perform this task, without dropping the engine out entirely (like is necessary for most bikes).

Oh yeah, drain the engine oil and replace the oil filter sometime around this point, as you can see I've done. We want to start the new motor with clean fresh oil. And, I bet you've also noticed my high-tech bulletin board. I put a big piece of duct tape on the clutch cover to write myself reminder notes. Remember....it could be several days before you reverse this whole process to completion. I've learned, I'm likely to forget something so importantly simple as this. Keep an eye on my billboard there, and you'll see my notes change with updates. I find it a handy place. Besides, a project just aint a real project, if you don't use duct tape!

Now, remove the wire connection to the engine temperature sensor (green). Careful here....the release button is on the very backside, and hard to get to.



You must squeeze it very firmly, then the connector slides off very easily. Don't force the connector off by pulling too hard. If there is much resistance, then you don't have the release clip opened far enough.

Then, remove the Starter connection, right here behind the cylinder:



Too rotate the engine safely, we have to unhook most everything attached to the motor, all the way around. That's what we are doing here. So, let's unhook the clutch cable....first up top:



Then, down bottom:



There is a little metal tab on the back side of this bracket (where my finger is pointing). You can't see it in this photo because its hidden by the cable. Just pry the tab up gently using a small screwdriver. Then the clutch cable can be removed from the bracket very easily. (Don't forget to close that Tab upon reassembly....a minor detail that could be forgotten easily)



All right, enough preliminaries.....we're finally getting to the good stuff!

HF
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HighFive screwed with this post 09-19-2010 at 03:06 PM
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Old 09-19-2010, 03:37 PM   #19
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There is the main ground for the electrical system....with the gold ring terminal, behind the Starter. Remove that bolt and Do Not lose it.



I label this bolt before tossing into my bucket, because its real easy to lose track of this one, for some reason or another.



Now, let's get the coil (aka spark plug cap) out of the head assembly. Lots of folks seem to struggle with this item. Its a real long, and real tight seal, and there's not much to grab hold of for pulling. Plus, with the electrical connections on top, many are scared they might break it. And, you don't want to do that because these things are Ho-chi-momma expensive.

So, here's what to do. First, remove the electrical connection. It has a clip lock, like most others. Squeeze the release and pull the connection apart like this:



Then, get ahold of it with BOTH hands like this:



Using a combo lifting and twisting motion, pry the coil up & out of the head, and out she comes:



Pay attention to the coil seal position before removing. Notice how tight the rubber lip is to the valve cover. Another good place for a photo (if you're a noob at it). You'll want to be certain you push & snap the coil back into place FULLY upon re-install. Lots of people think they've got their coil pushed all the way back on.....when they really don't. There always seems to be one more click (snap) down there than you think there will be. If the seal is flush - tight, you probably got it.

Ever wonder why you have a "hole" in the side of your engine? Maybe like this hole...



Its a drain hole for the spark plug chamber, so any water that might work past the coil seal can find its way back out of the motor, rather than pool up around the spark plug....rusting it out.

But, its REALLY valuable for doing this, before you remove your spark plug:



Shoot about 100 psi of compressed air thru that hole before you remove your spark plug! All the dirt, crud, etc in the well around your plug will be gone for good. Nothing left to fall into your cylinder when you pull the plug for maintenance. Just don't be looking down in there when the air comes up.....just sayin.

I will loosen the spark plug at this point, but not remove it. I want it to remain there to prevent anything from falling into the engine, while I work in & around the frame and motor.

Next up, disconnecting the main electrical line from the mag.

HF

We are almost there...
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:21 PM   #20
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Looks like you are going to remove the engine from the frame. NOT required.

Just pop off the front of the engine cradle and rotate it down. Greatly simplifies this project.

I removed no cables, brake pedals, etc. FWIW
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Old 09-19-2010, 04:26 PM   #21
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Good info here!
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Old 09-19-2010, 05:18 PM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtig
Looks like you are going to remove the engine from the frame. NOT required.

Just pop off the front of the engine cradle and rotate it down. Greatly simplifies this project.

I removed no cables, brake pedals, etc. FWIW

Yip, he mentioned that's how he's gonna do it. Keep up the good work HF!
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Old 09-19-2010, 07:41 PM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artoo
HF,
Thanks for another already excellent article!
Artoo
Sure thing, Artoo....my pleasure.

Quote:
Originally Posted by llamapacker
Yep, this is another one of those, how much is this going to cost me if it turns out good and I want one!!
Very likely, llamapacker....very likely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Machtig
Looks like you are going to remove the engine from the frame. NOT required.
Just pop off the front of the engine cradle and rotate it down. Greatly simplifies this project.
I removed no cables, brake pedals, etc. FWIW
Great info, Machtig. I wasn't sure how far the engine would drop, and some of the wires & lines didn't have much slack....so I didn't want to take any chances. And, I also wanted to be prepared to fully remove the motor. I hadn't decided (yet) how this would work out for me (doing it inside the frame).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble
Good info here!
Thanks, N_R....glad you find it a useful.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bpg
Yip, he mentioned that's how he's gonna do it. Keep up the good work HF!
You got it, bpg....will do. And, we'll have to hook up next time I tackle the Dragon!

HF
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Old 09-19-2010, 08:37 PM   #24
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So, let's continue on like we are getting ready to completely remove the engine from the frame.

Its time to un-tether the main wires from the on-board, electro-magnetic, power generation plant. I found the main harness hiding over here above the horn.



And there are lots of scary wires to disconnect. But its easy, because each one has its own (different) type of connector. Somebody actually thought this through, for once.







I tried to avoid it, but I had to take this plastic shroud off too.



Made getting to the front engine mount bolts easier, anyway.

There are some nifty little wire holders attached to the frame up here.



Just wedge a flat screwdriver into the gap and twist, and they pop right open. Nice re-useable clips, I like them.



And finally....she's all un-tethered from the hitching post.



Next up, we'll free the engine from its cage....sort of.

HF
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Old 09-20-2010, 02:53 AM   #25
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great work and write up!
What sort of power do you expect from all the mods?
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:38 AM   #26
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Great write up HF!

I'm seriously considering getting an R2, mainly due to your and BigDogs experience with them.


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Old 09-20-2010, 08:27 AM   #27
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Been subscribed from the start.....just formally acknowledging the effort with this post - thanks for the step by step walk through/photos
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:39 AM   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mousitsas
great work and write up!
What sort of power do you expect from all the mods?
Excellent question, mousitsas. One I've pondered many times before embarking on this journey. For, its best to identify your target before you start shooting. I'm right with you there...

But, I don't really know what to expect, I can only tell you what I'm "hoping" to get from it.

I want both more torque & hp in the low to mid ranges. My bike pulls well enough up top (8,000 - 11,500 rpm range). I want it to feel stronger coming off bottom as I accelerate through the gears. I hope to eliminate some of the flat spots in the power band. I'm also hoping to gain some more "passing force" at highway speeds....when I punch it to pass a car.

I'm hoping to make it pull stronger at slower "trail" speeds as I plunk along thru rocky single track. She's not bad, mind you, I'm just hoping to make her better. Possibly a lot better.

I'm also hoping to smooth out the power delivery as it comes off bottom. I want to feel a smoooooooth strong pull as I begin to twist the throttle from idle. I hate that snap & jerk motion where she's either On or Off. I want a more smooth transition down there, and I don't want to get it thru a band-aid approach using cams &/or different throttle tubes to slow down the cable pull. Nope, I want to "tune" it right so she performs predictably with confidence every time. I hate those unexpected, slow speed, engine stalls when crawling thru rocks and logs. The FMF PP unit does not allow me to fine tune air/fuel ratio near the bottom transition. The Power Commander programmers (both the III & V) are much more sophisticated in this regard. And the AutoTune device will give me "eyes" into what is actually happening in real-time.

I believe the Power Commander V & AutoTune units will give me the sophistication and micro-control flexibility that I need to solve this problem. Combine that with a bit different power characteristics of the Big Bore, and I think I might discover a whole new level of satisfaction.

I'm after a "feeling" that is hard to describe in words. I know what I want to feel, and I'll know when I feel it. Until then....my journey continues.

Hope that makes sense.

HF
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Old 09-20-2010, 08:59 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by danceswithcages
Great write up HF!

I'm seriously considering getting an R2, mainly due to your and BigDogs experience with them.

Wow...I appreciate your kind comments. I've tried to "keep it real" and call it straight. After all, it is what it is. And, I think one of our inmates (Bashr) nailed it, when he pinned the label: "Anywhere".

I love all my bikes for different reasons & uses. But the WRR is truly the first bike I've owned that I wouldn't hesitate to take anywhere. That's what makes it so unique. Its not the most powerful, the most nimble, and the most capable (in any one category). But, I do think its been the "most fun" bike I've ever owned.

With multiple options in the garage....begging for my attention, I find myself throwing my leg over this one WAY more than any of the others. And that's worth the price of admission, to me.

I don't think you'd regret buying one....unless all you desire is pure awesome almighty power!

HF
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Old 09-20-2010, 09:02 AM   #30
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Originally Posted by Crawdaddy
Been subscribed from the start.....just formally acknowledging the effort with this post - thanks for the step by step walk through/photos
Sweeeeet, Crawdaddy. Been loving all your desert riding photos...and then some. Dude, you "get after it".

HF
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