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Old 09-20-2010, 09:51 AM   #31
HighFive OP
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Onward mush...

Loosen the intake manifold so the motor can slip away from this boot. There are two hose clamps here....loosen both of them a whole bunch!



Now, let's loosen the bolts at the rear of this frame cradle. These don't have to be removed completely, unless you plan to take the engine to the workbench.



Don't forget the other side:



There are four more bolts like this up front (here & above my wrench, both sides). You don't have to remove these, for same reason. But I did.....just to make some of you squirm a little more!



This is where I had to turn the radio off and start concentrating....cause things are getting serious.



Kind of got to work both sides on this one....but I couldn't get both sides in same photo. So, use your imagination:



This one does have to come off (completely) since its anchored into the Head Assembly....which I will be removing:



Ok...here comes the daring part. The engine is heavy. No, its more like HEAVY. Especially when you are working solo. Now then, I wasn't sure what to expect when I pulled the bolts out of the frame at the top of the cradle. Wasn't sure how fast or how far that engine might drop. And, since you hear about all those stories of guys dying beneath their car when the jack fell (one just happened two weeks ago only 2 miles from my house....for real), I didn't want to take any chances. So, I acquired a little insurance...



Then, I carefully removed those final bolts at the top of the frame cradle. Guess what? Nothing happened.



It barely moved. So next, I carefully loosened the only bolt holding the motor....the main swingarm bolt thru the back of the engine. And......



Nothing happened.

I could hardly get that engine to move....pushing, tugging, & pulling. But little by little, I wedge it downward until the bottom back side of the motor hit the swingarm.

She doesn't move very far, but its far enough. As it made this next step quite easy. Only two bolts secure the valve cover onto the engine. Obviously it works, but this was definitely surprising to me. WARNING: be VERY careful with these two valve cover bolts when removing and reinstalling. I'll get into more detail regarding this a little later.

Finally, I feel like I'm getting somewhere:







HF
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:01 AM   #32
Nice_Rumble
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If the top of the motor is that tight in there how do you check the valves?
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Old 09-20-2010, 10:04 AM   #33
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Oooo....another good question.

The answer is "easy". There is enough room to remove the valve cover when the motor is all bolted up to the frame. And, I'll show you, a little later. Hang tight...

HF
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:21 AM   #34
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble
If the top of the motor is that tight in there how do you check the valves?
Do you know the valve inspection intervals of this little engine? I don't think very many of them will EVER need one.
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Old 09-20-2010, 11:59 AM   #35
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Hhhhmmm.....I have a feeling, Lukas, they might need a more frequent looksee.

Just a hunch...

HF
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:54 PM   #36
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Valve adjustment

Yours were tight. Were they beyond spec tight or just close to the low end? 26,600 miles is a long time for the initial inspection but it has been my personal experience with Yamaha that they run tight from the factory...and should be just fine at that range. When I inspected my 2002 FZ1 (five valve per cylinder head) I recall having to change three shims. This was after 28,000 miles...and it is on the 26,600 interval just like the R1's and R6's...and these are all modern high revving sport bike engines...of which much of the WR250R's engine is based. So....

I guess if you are in there already, by all means inspect them, but I really doubt it is anything that needs to be done by all of us before the normal interval...

If it keeps you up at night, go ahead and do it.

Thanks for the write up HF!
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Old 09-20-2010, 12:56 PM   #37
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Just a note on the subject . . . I saw HF's valves with my own two eyes and I have no plans to open my motor before the recommended 26.6k mile check.


If it's runnin', I'm ridin'
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:02 PM   #38
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I don't think you'd regret buying one....unless all you desire is pure awesome almighty power!

HF [/QUOTE]




My 1250 Bandit has all the pure awesome almighty power I'll ever need!
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Old 09-20-2010, 05:33 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
I'm also hoping to smooth out the power delivery as it comes off bottom. I want to feel a smoooooooth strong pull as I begin to twist the throttle from idle. -- I hate that snap & jerk motion where she's either On or Off. I hate those unexpected, slow speed, engine stalls when crawling thru rocks and logs. HF
HF, as you experienced on my WRR it is possible to get the above with the stock engine with a PCIII. Since "my" WRR is really my wife's bike, I will not be adding a BigBore any time soon, besides it's still in warranty and I'm sure the BigBore kit negates any warranty. I am watching your endeavor with great interest and curious what the gains really are.

Hey you probably didn't hear way down there in OK, that up here in WA they are revoking/pulling plates on a whole passle of dirtbike KTM's and some Husabergs (made by KTM), so far, retroactively, no grandfathering. Much unhappiness. So the list of platable, trail connecting light dirtbikes in WA just got severely shortened. The WRR is a great option for street legal DualSporters and as we know, capable of some tough technical riding:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602376
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:09 PM   #40
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Originally Posted by cyborg
Hey you probably didn't hear way down there in OK, that up here in WA they are revoking/pulling plates on a whole passle of dirtbike KTM's and some Husabergs (made by KTM), so far, retroactively, no grandfathering.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=602376
What's the reason given for pulling plates on registered bikes?
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:23 PM   #41
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Yet another reason I left Pugetropolis.

Here in Montucky you can make any vehicle street legal, including quads. Just need a brake light and mirror.
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Old 09-20-2010, 06:25 PM   #42
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Oh this is going to be fun!

HF, you are definitely the man! This looks like so much fun. I can't wait to see what your opinion of the mod is. Power is most likely a given but what does it do to the mileage and range etc. I know you will document everything and do it well, so thank you in advance.

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Old 09-20-2010, 06:38 PM   #43
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
Excellent question, mousitsas. One I've pondered many times before embarking on this journey. For, its best to identify your target before you start shooting. I'm right with you there...

But, I don't really know what to expect, I can only tell you what I'm "hoping" to get from it.

I want both more torque & hp in the low to mid ranges. My bike pulls well enough up top (8,000 - 11,500 rpm range). I want it to feel stronger coming off bottom as I accelerate through the gears. I hope to eliminate some of the flat spots in the power band. I'm also hoping to gain some more "passing force" at highway speeds....when I punch it to pass a car.

I'm hoping to make it pull stronger at slower "trail" speeds as I plunk along thru rocky single track. She's not bad, mind you, I'm just hoping to make her better. Possibly a lot better.

I'm also hoping to smooth out the power delivery as it comes off bottom. I want to feel a smoooooooth strong pull as I begin to twist the throttle from idle. I hate that snap & jerk motion where she's either On or Off. I want a more smooth transition down there, and I don't want to get it thru a band-aid approach using cams &/or different throttle tubes to slow down the cable pull. Nope, I want to "tune" it right so she performs predictably with confidence every time. I hate those unexpected, slow speed, engine stalls when crawling thru rocks and logs. The FMF PP unit does not allow me to fine tune air/fuel ratio near the bottom transition. The Power Commander programmers (both the III & V) are much more sophisticated in this regard. And the AutoTune device will give me "eyes" into what is actually happening in real-time.

I believe the Power Commander V & AutoTune units will give me the sophistication and micro-control flexibility that I need to solve this problem. Combine that with a bit different power characteristics of the Big Bore, and I think I might discover a whole new level of satisfaction.

I'm after a "feeling" that is hard to describe in words. I know what I want to feel, and I'll know when I feel it. Until then....my journey continues.

Hope that makes sense.

HF
I hear you on that - I love my WRR, such that the only real complaint is the abruptness of throttle at walking speeds (especially over really bumpy terrain). I'm spoiled by my tractor-like, 51T rear sprocketed vintage XL250 - it breezes through that stuff with ease (although the WRR obviously kills it everywhere else!).

Absolutely let me know re: a Dragon ride - fun to chase sportbikes on a knobbied 250, then disappear into the woods for some superb western NC dual sporting!
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Old 09-20-2010, 07:31 PM   #44
cyborg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nice_Rumble
What's the reason given for pulling plates on registered bikes?

How it happened from the horse's mouth:

http://licensingexpress.wordpress.co...motorcycle-qa/

Prolly some 2 smokers the Po Po stopped, with a plate and nothing else on the bikes...

See the actual letter WA DOL is sending:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showp...&postcount=461
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Old 09-20-2010, 07:37 PM   #45
HighFive OP
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vwsandman
When I inspected my 2002 FZ1 (five valve per cylinder head) I recall having to change three shims. This was after 28,000 miles...and it is on the 26,600 interval just like the R1's and R6's...

If it keeps you up at night, go ahead and do it.

Thanks for the write up HF!
Good info, Sandman. I have no idea where the factory sets the valve clearance on the WRR when new. Somebody please open their brand new WRR and take a measurement for us.....purdy pleeeeeeease!

I'll cover my valve check shortly.....standby.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Krabill
Just a note on the subject . . .

If it's runnin', I'm ridin'
Aaaahh.....The Krabill joins us. Fashionably late, of course.

Quote:
Originally Posted by cyborg
HF, as you experienced on my WRR it is possible to get the above with the stock engine with a PCIII.
Yes indeed, Cyborg. Your baby was "spot on" smooth as a baby's butt, when I rode it 2 months ago in the Great PNW. Or, should I now say, "not so great pnw". Husa just can't be a no-no. Say it isn't so.

Thanks to you, I know its possible to achieve a buttery smooth take-off, with a Power Commander unit. But wait....mine will be better than yours, my friend.


Quote:
Originally Posted by 10Cup
HF, you are definitely the man! This looks like so much fun. I can't wait to see what your opinion of the mod is.

Fully subscribed here!
Hey...Welcome Home, 10Cup! What an amazing trip you just had! ! ! !
And yes sir, you are right. This is a FUN project which ain't finished yet.


Now then, since everyone is so antsy about the valve specs, I'll make that my next installment. Coming soon....

HF
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