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Old 09-21-2010, 05:34 PM   #61
Money$hift
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pigford
STOP - Do NOT bother doing the clearances now

You should redo them AFTER the rebuild, as new head gasket & retorquing the head may well lead to minor distortion & effect the clearance measurement!. ALSO, the clearances are best re-checked with the lobe pointing 180 degrees away from the shim surface - in line with the axis of the valve stems.
Thats assinine. He should have checked for sure. Why not do a baseline check when hes first got it disassembled, then do it when its back together w the new kit as well?

At least it lets the WRR community know whats really happening inside the engine instead of relying on the given 26k mark from mother Yamaha.
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Old 09-21-2010, 05:34 PM   #62
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Highfive,

Glad to see your progress. Looking forward to your comments after you ride awhile.

Will I see you in Mo.

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Old 09-21-2010, 06:09 PM   #63
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Thoughts on the passing scene

Ok...lots of good comments here.

Indeed, first thing I did when I got her open, was check the valve clearances for a baseline reference. For the sake of this conversation, I'll momentarily "jump ahead" and tell you that I immediately rechecked the valve clearance after reinstall (with new cylinder). Same gap as previous with everything set in place and cam chain under tension. So, I was quite confident that the valve clearance was both before & after 0.13mm IN & 0.23mm EX....both sides.

I did consider the valve opening duration with tighter clearance and the potential benefits therein. Another look at the range: 0.13 - 0.20 and 0.23 - .30, respectively, both are only 0.07mm difference from min to max spec.

I felt that's a pretty tight range, anyway....not a great deal of difference. So, why not go ahead and make a small adjustment while I had it all opened up. Figured I was gaining power enough with the larger bore, to fret over squeezing every last drop. After all, I can always go back and tighten that later, if I choose to. I decided to adjust my clearances toward the middle of the range. And the next installment shows how I did it (right or wrong, I'm committed).

HF

p.s. Great point, Rufus....when its all hooked up. The piston just goes up & down, up & down, with each revolution of the crank. Neither the crank nor piston know what "stroke" they are on (or care). Its the positioning of the camshaft lobes (during installation) that determines whether its compression stroke or exhaust stroke for that particular TDC revolution. Agree...?

Also, I'm thinking the Timing Mark lines up only once per the 4-stroke cycle. So, if its set correctly, when you line up its always at TDC of compression stroke. eh? I could be mistaken on this. I need to double check that to be sure.

p.s.s. Hardroad...I think I shall, but on a bike this time!
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HighFive screwed with this post 09-21-2010 at 06:23 PM
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Old 09-21-2010, 06:26 PM   #64
emerson.biguns
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Ordered my PC-V and Autotune today. Got them for $494 total shipped. Did I do ok?

May try to launch into this Friday or Saturday.

Thanks for the go-by.

I'll take you up on the offer when I get ready to start.

Thanks,

John
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:32 PM   #65
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You can do the valve adjustment with the motor in the frame....no problem. But since I'm swapping out the stock cylinder for the new Athena Big Bore, I'm going to pull the Head off anyway. So, I'll do my valve adjustment work when I get the Head Assembly out on the bench....er eh garage floor (for me)....cause my workbench is to full of crapola.

First thing to do, is SECURE THAT CAMCHAIN. And do it like you mean it because you don't want to drop it down the hatch into the crankcase (that's a BIG hole in there).



Then stuff BIG hole with rags so nothing else smaller falls in there....like bolts, washers, sockets, or cigarettes!



Wow...my wire has vanished! Hope it didn't come loose and fall into that BIG hole! ! !

Now, welcome the extra "helping hands" which you recruited days ago, but finally arrived fashionably late (of course).



That's what a Krabill looks like, if you never seen one out in the woods before. Kind of scary, ain't it. Now imagine its dark...

And you can tell he brought his work close just itchin to get down to bizness.

Got to relieve that tension on the camchain first. Easy, just remove the camchain tensioner from the back of the Head Assembly. But wait, the Starter is in the way!
Aargh....time to remove the starter...two anchor bolts right here:



Then give it a good tug with a twist.....its a press fit with a very tight seal.





Hey...look at those wires coming out of the centercase beneath the Starter. There's the Speed Sensor from the crank!

Well, while were rooting around back here, we might as well remove the Thermostat. The housing is kind of sticking out, in the way:





I really just think the Krabill wanted a photo of his amazing hands in action.

NOW, we can remove the Camchain Tensioner:



This is why I removed the clutch cable....because it was in my way for this task. I don't like things "in my way"....like the Krabill on the trail. That's why he is usually behind me. But I digress...

Here is the Almighty Beast From The East!



Oh...rest assured, we'll be looking closer at this sadistic bastard in posts to come!


Now, let's get the camshaft cover off:



See there....I did use 1/4" wrenches after all. This cover is all one piece holding both camshafts secure. Note, the valve cover anchors are built into this soft aluminum camshaft cover. Two bolt holes top & center. Will we EVER get a closer look at those two jewels....a little later (oh boy).

Here comes the exhaust camshaft:



These just lift out easily, once you get the cover removed (oh so carefully....don't drop anything...anywhere).

Now, we've got to remove the bolts which anchor the Head Assembly. We discovered 6 bolts in total. Four big ones that go clear thru the cylinder to anchor in the case, and two smaller ones that are hiding inside the camchain well.











The good news....no wait...the Really GREAT news is the washers are built onto these bolts. They cannot fall off when you pull them out. That had us greenhorns a puckered up, till we realized our good fortune. BUT, take a very careful look at them....tell me what you see?



Did you catch it?

One of the large head bolts is longer than the other 3. Oh...geez...louise...which hole did it come from Krabill? That was on your side!

He's absolutely positively certain it came from the left rear position (actually that would be left center when looking at all 6 anchors). But studying the manual, it clearly shows the longer bolt goes into the left front (center front of Head) position. Double aaaargh.....I hate that when something doesn't jive. Upon reassembly I put it in the front position like the manual indicates, and it "bottoms out" before its anchored fully! It looked down, but didn't FEEL right when it tightened. Came to a sudden stop...unable to variable torque it. So guess what? The Krabill was right (again). Honestly, I never really doubted him. That's why I follow his Valve Check & Adjustment procedure too. The Service Manual appears to be wrong. Maybe it isn't worth the paper its printed on....hhhhmmmm. So, the next person who pulls their Head Assembly, please look carefully at these bolts and double check which hole the longer bolt comes out of and report findings back here (got it EB?).


FINALLY we get to pull the Head Assembly off the motor.....hip hip hooray! ! !







HF
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:47 PM   #66
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Old 09-21-2010, 07:58 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
So, the next person who pulls their Head Assembly, please look carefully at these bolts and double check which hole the longer bolt comes out of and report findings back here (got it EB?)



.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:00 PM   #68
Krabill
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HighFive
I don't like things "in my way"....like the Krabill on the trail. That's why he is usually behind me. But I digress...
Pure comedy gold!









Carry on . . .
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Old 09-22-2010, 01:42 AM   #69
JensEskildsen
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You cant just stop there.... move on....pretty pleeaaasee?
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Old 09-22-2010, 06:52 AM   #70
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Awesome job Gentlemen! Lov'n it big time!
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Old 09-22-2010, 07:16 AM   #71
laramie LC4
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1. I wouldn't worry about the valve lash at all. i would say that yamaha tends to set them toward the tighter side, but cant prove it. my wr450f, which has very similar head and valves, has 20,000 miles on it and i've only adjusted them twice. these Ti valves just don't move, and i've been anything but nice to this motor.

2. why aren't you just pulling the engine? for the little extra work it sure would make things a lot easier for you. wouldnt it be nice to not bend over the bike? especially when installing that trick new barrel over those new rings and piston. just saying....

good luck,

laramie
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Old 09-22-2010, 08:49 AM   #72
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Aaahh....you're probably right, Laramie. But, I'm just so used to sitting on the hard, cold, dirty, garage floor....well, it feels homey. Maybe one day, I'll find the inspiration to clean the crapola off my workbench and do it like a real mechanic. Stop breaking the "code" and all that...

Thanks for the input on the valve lash ( "clearance" ? ). I was beginning to get depressed.

HF
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Old 09-22-2010, 09:40 AM   #73
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Soooooo......you want to see the bottom of the Head, do ya? Ok, here you go.



Ain't she purdy? More like purdy dirty. All that fussing over the valve clearances, and they're all dirty anyway. Problem won't even open up much. But it seemed to be working, so I just left it like it was. Well, I did wipe it with a rag & some contact cleaner, but nothing came off. I think those Japs stained it this color at the factory, so they could have a good laugh at my expense. That's just a theory, mind you. But I'll get them back....I ain't even gonna clean it off. Just going to slap it back on "as is". Figured I'll just cause more problems chiseling the "dark" off there, than leaving it baked in place.

Now, if I had some Real Mechanic Tools, I'd remove the valves and clean the whole thing up properly & shiny like. But I don't....so I won't. By the way, the Intake are the bigger valves, Exhaust the smaller....so, R² will have a hard time claiming she "didn't inhale".

The other half looks a bit dirty too:



Told you long ago, we weren't running our WRR's too lean. At least not anywhere but the idle circuit (maybe).

I'm not going to bother with cleaning the piston top either, since I'm retiring it to the shelf. Let's get this cylinder off of here:





By the way, when you remove the Head & Cylinder, be sure to "un-torque" the anchor bolts in a similar (reverse) manner as torquing them. I mean do it a little at a time, in a criss-cross pattern, same order as recommended by the Service Manual. This should help prevent any distortion or torsional warping, as these are very critical components....even though they look and feel pretty thick & tough. Treat them like they are made of crystal.

CAUTION: Be very careful as you raise the cylinder calmly and gently. Do not loose the dowel spacers at the bottom of the cylinder (pressed into the bolt holes). Some might be loose and want to fall out.....which could leave you very sad. They might disappear into the crank abyss. If you don't realize it, then it probably wouldn't take very long to realize later, when you restart the motor and briefly (just briefly albeit) hear something like marbles bouncing around inside your crankcase/gearbox. Just a friendly little suggestion, that's all...



CAUTION 2: Notice there is one particular dowel spacer that is much larger than the others. It is positioned near the right front corner and is lined up in the water passageway. This one has an O-ring seal on it. Keep track of that.



You'll need to pull it off the stock cylinder and move it to the new Athena cylinder upon re-install. I almost bolted up my new cylinder without realizing it wasn't there! Then, I got a feeling.....and HF feeling....that something wasn't right. Strange how that happens with me. But as the Krabill is my witness, I said STOP! Something's wrong. And I figured it out...long story short. The little booger was till in my stock cylinder which I had already put away in the Athena box.

Boy howdy, that would have been an ugly discover upon starting my bike much later....eh?

Good News: its still shiny clean in here:



Now, you can see the position of that 0-ring for the coolant passage, as its still in place on this stock cylinder. That's the one I'm talking about. Who knows where you're likely to find it. Jumping ahead....it goes right here upon reinstallation. But, DON'T PEAK at the Athena name on that new cylinder....cause we're not up to that point yet!



Dang it, I told you Not To Peak at that! Man oh man, if you can't follow simple instructions like that, then you probably better not tackle a project like this yourself. Just sayin.

Making progress:



HF

Next up, the valve adjustment...
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HighFive screwed with this post 09-22-2010 at 09:50 AM
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Old 09-22-2010, 10:26 AM   #74
Money$hift
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Lookin good mang. Any plans on getting it on a dyno afterward?
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Old 09-22-2010, 02:09 PM   #75
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"...R² will have a hard time claiming she "didn't inhale..."



HF,

Excellent writeup! I really appreciate the details you're showing about pitfalls. Likin' the humor, too. Definitely a good read!



Artoo
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