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Old 11-21-2011, 08:21 AM   #31
Grizzlyman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by north_of_us View Post
I dont want to hijack but i also have similar questions. The more you read up on something the more you get convinced you need it, anyway.

I have a 2010 450 exc (375k's, new this spring, also new to ridding) rekluse pro, 14/52 gearing and find im using it more on the street then i thought i would. Like taking it to work only a 15 min ride but sure beats ridding my big pickup, not to mention the price of gas in Nothern Ontario, and also going for a quick ride somewhere.

Is the damage to the trany something that will just go, or more of an accumulation of miles over a couple of years. I just love my bike, dont want to hurt her.

It also sounds that Cush users only have them for the road, would newer riders notice anything off road??

Thanks, time to go to work.
I have been wondering the same. I have a motard wheel/tire set up form my KTM 450. I'm thinking more and more abut getting a cush hub for the motard wheel.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:11 AM   #32
overlandr
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I have a bare LC4 cush hub to weigh if someone has the Talon or RAD for comparison.
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Old 11-23-2011, 08:59 AM   #33
kpt4321
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 001andrew View Post
I just rode my 2009 530 across Australia, 5600kms. I nearly died when I saw what my spline looked like.. Its rooted. Wish I had installed a cush drive, now I have to split the engine to replace the shaft.

My bike has done 13500kms, all dirt except for the trip across Aus.

We had an 01' 400exc, did exactly the same thing........................

EXC's and tar- bad scenario

Gearing 15-48, 14-48 for the Gun Barrel Hwy and the Simpson Desert
Rear tyre, Dunlop 908, wheel static balanced

Rubber up boys
While your experience is interesting (and thanks for sharing), there are plenty of anecdotes that point the other way too.

For example, DRZs and TE610s don't have a cush hub. Last year I bought a DRZ that had been used for 100% street duty, which had 12,000 miles on the odometer. Output shaft splines were fine. I put a few thousand more miles on the bike, both on the dirt and as a supermoto, and it was fine when I sold it.

Furthermore, there are LOTS of DRZ-SMs with significant miles on them, many owned by guys who probably aren't the best about maintenance. I have not heard of rampant output shaft spline failures.

There are not nearly as many TEs as there are DRZ, but there are some, and they do not have cush hubs either. Rumor has it there is some kind of cush in the clutch, but my understanding is that this does not function in the "typical" way a cush hub does.

In any case, I have considered one for my bikes, but in the end I have trouble arguing that Suzuki and Husqvarna didn't know what they were doing...

It certainly can't hurt, though.
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Old 11-23-2011, 09:38 AM   #34
LukasM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpt4321 View Post
While your experience is interesting (and thanks for sharing), there are plenty of anecdotes that point the other way too.

For example, DRZs and TE610s don't have a cush hub. Last year I bought a DRZ that had been used for 100% street duty, which had 12,000 miles on the odometer. Output shaft splines were fine. I put a few thousand more miles on the bike, both on the dirt and as a supermoto, and it was fine when I sold it.

Furthermore, there are LOTS of DRZ-SMs with significant miles on them, many owned by guys who probably aren't the best about maintenance. I have not heard of rampant output shaft spline failures.

There are not nearly as many TEs as there are DRZ, but there are some, and they do not have cush hubs either. Rumor has it there is some kind of cush in the clutch, but my understanding is that this does not function in the "typical" way a cush hub does.

In any case, I have considered one for my bikes, but in the end I have trouble arguing that Suzuki and Husqvarna didn't know what they were doing...

It certainly can't hurt, though.
IMO his sample of one is more relevant in this case than comparing DRZs and TE610s with the EXC, as they are slower and have less power.

I will have to revise my first opinion posted in this thread about a year ago, since then I have seen a couple of XC4 engined bikes and if they had more than 10k and were dual-sported, they all showed significant wear on the output shaft splines.

For dual sport and motard use (other than race only), I now definitely consider the cush hubs a worthwhile upgrade even with the (not enough) dampened cliutch hub.
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Old 11-23-2011, 10:09 AM   #35
ADVJake
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perhaps the KTM splines just arent as strong? or there is additional stress being applied somewhere, or loose front sprockets...
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Old 11-23-2011, 03:20 PM   #36
yondering
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kpt4321 View Post
For example, DRZs and TE610s don't have a cush hub.
DRZ's also have a different way of attaching the front sprocket to the countershaft, which results in less/insignificant spline wear. Not to mention a lot less power.

No idea about 610's, never owned or worked on one.
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Old 12-10-2011, 05:28 AM   #37
natedog39
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I ridden with both cush drive and non cush drive on the street and I felt a difference from the seat.

The cush drive was definitely smoother.

A friend has a cush drive wheel that came off a 95 RXC 400 that I sold him actually ,this wheel has seen service on multiple bikes , I say invest in a wheel and keep it , Might make a little more sense to spend the $$$$$ if you get years worth of use.
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Old 12-10-2011, 03:10 PM   #38
It'sNotTheBike
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What about using Loctite on the cs splines ?

The Loctite I am thinking of is 680, which is green in color.

I am wondering if using Loctite 680 or a similar product on the countershaft sprocket splines
would prevent the sprocket and the shaft "working" against one another. If the fit of the
splines is kept free of play, perhaps this would reduce wear of the shaft spines.

Also, if the Loctite takes up all the free space where the splines of the countershaft and the countershaft
sprocket mate, this would prevent dirt, sand, etc. from entering the space between splines and then acting as an abrasive wear agent.

Disassembly of parts which have been joined using the 680 is aided by the use of a bit of heat, such that the
area where the 680 was used reaches c. 232 degrees F ( 111 degrees C. ).

( By the way, I don't mean to imply that Loctite could or would obviate the need for a cush rear hub )

I'd like to hear Lukas' thoughts on the use of Loctite on the splines.



Below are links to tech data on the Loctite 680 :

http://store.fiberinstrumentsales.com/files/33289.pdf



Info on a similar product which is sold by Permatex :

http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/64000.pdf
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Old 12-03-2012, 07:43 PM   #39
francisb
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husaberg gears in a ktm 530

I agree with lukasm about lc8ty cushion wheel setup, " If's there's such a thing as wheel porn you win!". But what really caught my attention was what 001andrew said about husaberg fifth and sixth gear and putting it in his 09 KTM 530 exc. Why??
I'm assuming it's so that he doesn't need to switch counter sprocket size from 15 to 14 for on/off road and that the gears in the husaburg transmission are different for a taller overdrive and fits the ktm. I guess I read too deeply into what 001Andrew wrote and was wondering if there is any fact to this. Wondering if I should open a new tread. I want to know as much as possible about this. I tried finding specific transmission gearing specifications for the husaberg 570 like how many teeth on the 5th and 6th gears but gave up searching. Maybe someone out there is familiar with these machines and can point me in the right direction.
thanks for any information.
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