F800GS Valve Adjusting step by step.

[Oso Blanco]

Originally Posted by A-Wind

Can't you just:
1. remove the C-Clips
2. remove the followers (to the side) or is there no room???
3. change the shims

It sure looks to me that indeed that (1-3) is what BMW intended with the follower/shim design.

It maybe possible to do it as you described but it seems like trying to wiggle the follower on to the shaft while keeping the shim in place 4 times per cam is more hassle than removing the cams in the first place.

As mentioned the BMW manual says take the cams out. Feel free to set the valves on someones F800 and write a how to about it using your method.

Originally Posted by A-Wind

Further, if your clearance is within specs, then STOP !!!
There is no need to get creative.

If by "creative" you mean moving them to mid spec, it was done because I was leaving on a 30,000km trip and wanted to the best chance of completing it without having to do a re-shim along the way.

[JRWooden]

In the second picture there, the "pockets" look pretty deep and the valve stem might be so deeply "engaged" that it could cause trouble ... but it could work.

Give it a go, let us know how it works when you do yours!

[A-Wind]

Originally Posted by Oso Blanco

It maybe possible to do it as you described but it seems like trying to wiggle the follower on to the shaft while keeping the shim in place 4 times per cam is more hassle than removing the cams in the first place.

As mentioned the BMW manual says take the cams out. Feel free to set the valves on someones F800 and write a how to about it using your method.

If by "creative" you mean moving them to mid spec, it was done because I was leaving on a 30,000km trip and wanted to the best chance of completing it without having to do a re-shim along the way.

I'm just trying to help.

The method what I meant indeed DOES WORK on the 2010 GS1200:
http://sanjosebmw.smugmug.com/Other/Tech-pictures/10976964_bHf66#767209614_WupU9

I would avoid taking off the cams unless absolute necessary. It can do more damage than good even if assembled in correct order, because the cam bearing has to be to torqued properly and most people don't have accurate torque wrenches at home.

As far as valve specs go, let's not forget: unless we are talking about racing, valve specs are understood as a value being set by the manufacturer that have to be met AT the time of service and NOT at all times. In other words, the manufacturer calls for maximum/minimum specs with respect of maximum possible specs changes until the next scheduled service AND the engine being able to run properly and without damage until the next scheduled service.

[xcuzzi]

here's what the numbers look like on the shim/semispheres

[Oso Blanco]

Originally Posted by A-Wind

I'm just trying to help.

Cool. Work on your delivery.

[Steveize]

and never kid him while he has a bike torn down like that and ask "up in 5 minutes right?" great write up, sometimes we forget that doing all that, taking pics etc. takes your time and in this day and age someone will be Downer Debby..however you Sir are to be comended for acknowleding that you not only rec'vd much help from these forums, but have something to give back., and very well done.

Have a great trip, know you probably caused a run on tool supply places and next snowed in weekend many f800's will get torn down. Thanks..

[stephen.stallebrass]

Should this valve check/adjustment be done before or after the oil change? Or does it not matter?

[Oso Blanco]

Originally Posted by Steveize

...great write up, sometimes we forget that doing all that, taking pics etc. takes your time and in this day and age someone will be Downer Debby..however you Sir are to be comended for acknowleding that you not only rec'vd much help from these forums, but have something to give back., and very well done.

Have a great trip, know you probably caused a run on tool supply places and next snowed in weekend many f800's will get torn down. Thanks..

Glad you've found it useful. It is a bit more work to do a write up and take pics but there have been several "how to" threads here that have saved me time and money. What goes around comes around.

As the saying goes "There is more than one way to skin a cat" (not sure why anyone is skinning cats...). Perhaps the procedures put forward by A-Wind are sound and viable. Based on his post I'll assume he is actually a mechanic or at least well versed in the ways of the wrench. I can however do without the "Typical backyard mechanic mistake" type comments. A slight re-wording of the same info would have been received better. Perhaps I need to grow thicker skin for the internet

Originally Posted by stephen.stallebrass

Should this valve check/adjustment be done before or after the oil change? Or does it not matter?

I'm not sure if there's a right or wrong procedure but I always do an oil change after having the engine open in case any dirt or grit got in. The oil change after will hopefully flush it out.

[JRWooden]

Originally Posted by Oso Blanco

... I'm not sure if there's a right or wrong procedure but I always do an oil change after having the engine open in case any dirt or grit got in. The oil change after will hopefully flush it out.

Thanks Oso for doing this!
I agree with you ... I don't see any ADVANTAGE to changing the oil first, and while it probably does not matter very much either way, even a very meticulous mechanic could leave some gasket sealer debris or small dirt behind ...

Like you, I'll be doing the check, button things back up, ride a few miles then change oil and filter.

[stephen.stallebrass]

Originally Posted by Oso Blanco

I'm not sure if there's a right or wrong procedure but I always do an oil change after having the engine open in case any dirt or grit got in. The oil change after will hopefully flush it out.

That's about what I thought. Thanks.

[Oso Blanco]

Thanks for the PM A-Wind.

[A-Wind]

Originally Posted by Oso Blanco

Thanks for the PM A-Wind.

Thank you too, we have the same goal.

[TheCowboy]

WOW, my chain (between the two cam gears) has considerable less tension than the one shown in photo on page one. Is that an issue?

TheCowboy

[David13]

This looks like a really good thread. I had done my 800 valve check maybe around the time of this original thread, and did not see this thread. That was when I had an 800.
I did not need to change shims. The valves were right on the money (or very close).
On the new 1200s I understand it is much easier to change the shims. Without taking out the cams. That's what I heard, But as far as I know, the only way to do it on the 800 is take out the cams.
On the 1200 up to 09 you have adjustable valves. Easy.
As to the chain tensioner on the 800; turn it (the engine); it will loosen as it turns. If you are going to change the tensioner spring (there is a new spring out) rotate. You will find a loose spot, where it's easy to change.
dc

[TheCowboy]

TDC - what marks on the two camshaft gears am I looking at? where the dash marks allign - where the left cam gear shows E and dash under it and the right cam gear shows I and the dash right under it? I have no book to tell me so I am shooting in the dark here. I am assuming this is TDC but I need to know for sure...

WOW the gasket is EXPENSIVE!! $86.00.... I was expecting $18.00 like the alternator cover gasket :)

TheCowboy