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Old 03-10-2012, 02:02 PM   #91
GS73
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Converting NM

Also most torque wrenches will have scale on them that shows nm to foot or inch pounds. Depends on which your using.
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:10 PM   #92
ShaunJ
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Does the oil need to be drained before removing the bolt that gets used to lock the crank?
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Old 03-25-2012, 02:35 PM   #93
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Valve Adj

No, the oil level is below the level of the bolt.
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Old 05-07-2012, 01:15 PM   #94
JRWooden
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"In general" do clearnces get tighter or looser over time?

I realize that there is a lot going on in the top of the engine ...
valve & seat wear due to pounding and maybe dirty air, wear in the valve train components cam/rocker/...etc
So maintenance and riding style are certainly factors, but for an average rider using a good air filter, regular oil changes, and not making it a habit to buzz around at 8,000 RPM ....

"In general" would a rider expect clearances get tighter or looser over time?

I've heard tighter as seat and valve face wear are the dominant factors .... but
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:12 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JRWooden View Post
I realize that there is a lot going on in the top of the engine ...
valve & seat wear due to pounding and maybe dirty air, wear in the valve train components cam/rocker/...etc
So maintenance and riding style are certainly factors, but for an average rider using a good air filter, regular oil changes, and not making it a habit to buzz around at 8,000 RPM ....

"In general" would a rider expect clearances get tighter or looser over time?

I've heard tighter as seat and valve face wear are the dominant factors .... but
I've been working on vehicles since before I could legally drive and automobile engines generally loosen due to cam/lifter/rocker/valve stem wear but bike valve trains seem to get tighter rather than looser. The valve faces and seats seem to wear faster than the above listed parts. It seems counter-intuitive as I can't think of any other mechanical system that tightens as it wears
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Old 05-08-2012, 03:18 AM   #96
JRWooden
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Oso Blanco View Post
I've been working on vehicles since before I could legally drive and automobile engines generally loosen due to cam/lifter/rocker/valve stem wear but bike valve trains seem to get tighter rather than looser. The valve faces and seats seem to wear faster than the above listed parts. It seems counter-intuitive as I can't think of any other mechanical system that tightens as it wears
Thanks!
Yeah... ... I'm with you -- it kinda makes my head hurt.
That's why I asked... one of my first jobs in high school was "resurfacing" rocker arms ...
(that's a nice way of saying: grinding them down until the wear dimples were removed)
I was reading another forum and the comments seemed to run similar at least some other motorcycles...
i.e. they "use up" the clearance weird...

At my first valve check (12K miles), the intakes were in the middle of the range and the exhausts were closer to the high end of the clearance range. I was trying to guesstimate where they'd be this next time ...
I think I'll guess "less" ...
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Old 06-28-2012, 11:42 AM   #97
sidecar
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So does the sealant go on both or just one side of the valve cover gasket? Is Permatex ultra blue ok to use?
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Old 06-28-2012, 01:17 PM   #98
JRWooden
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Ya know I never thought about the "both sides" part of your question..........
I've always "assumed" they meant both sides but the manual is not clear on that part.
They say to use "Bond 1209" found only in Germany I think ...
In terms of WHERE to put it the illustration shows the sealer on the bottom side of the gasket from about mid-way in the front around the side with the half-moons and around to mid-way in the back. The right side of f the gasket is UNsealed.

Opinion starts here:
I'll be doing my check this fall, and unless someone talks me out of it (and if anybody has a good reason to try to talk me out of it, I'm all ears!), I'll be using Permatex Hylomar as the sealant. It doesn't "harden" and thus should make things easier on valve-checks going forward. One guy I know has used it on our bikes without issue, and Permatex says it should be fine:

http://www.permatex.com/documents/PX...0Hylomar1A.pdf
http://www.permatex.com/documents/td...tive/85249.pdf
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:48 AM   #99
NCD
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Doing my first check on this bike tonight. I noticed that this DIY and the DVD both make no mention of pulling the spark plugs. Is that correct? Don't they need to be out in order to stay at TDC?
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Old 10-13-2012, 05:17 PM   #100
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Take the plugs out so you don't have to fight the engine compression as you are bumping the rear wheel around to position the pistons to TDC.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:42 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by ebnelson View Post
Take the plugs out so you don't have to fight the engine compression as you are bumping the rear wheel around to position the pistons to TDC.
That's what I've always done in the past - I thought it was odd that it wasn't a step on the DVD. Anyhow, it tried it with them in for the hell of it, and it was pretty easy to get the correct position using the rear wheel in 6th.
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Old 10-14-2012, 04:54 PM   #102
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And, for anyone else getting ready to do this that may read this thread in prep:

1. After you cut the zipties along the LHS to move the wiring: Pull the lower plastic plug out of the frame that serves as the anchor for the ziptie.

2. Unplug the RHS injector plug (buys you some more wire slack.) Strap that whole wiring mess off to the right while you are working.

3. After you unhook the throttle cable, do the same with the clutch cable. Curve them up and forward out of the way.

4. Cut the zipties and remove the 2 nuts that hold your seat latch in place. Unplug the small connector and hang the whole thing off to the left.

The time it takes to do this will save you time tenfold. It lets the valve cover come off without drama, and go back on without smudging the sealant. You can remove and reinstall the 3 lines at the back of the airbox without using every curse word in your vocabulary also.
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:21 PM   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NCD View Post
And, for anyone else getting ready to do this that may read this thread in prep:

1. After you cut the zipties along the LHS to move the wiring: Pull the lower plastic plug out of the frame that serves as the anchor for the ziptie.

2. Unplug the RHS injector plug (buys you some more wire slack.) Strap that whole wiring mess off to the right while you are working.

3. After you unhook the throttle cable, do the same with the clutch cable. Curve them up and forward out of the way.

4. Cut the zipties and remove the 2 nuts that hold your seat latch in place. Unplug the small connector and hang the whole thing off to the left.

The time it takes to do this will save you time tenfold. It lets the valve cover come off without drama, and go back on without smudging the sealant. You can remove and reinstall the 3 lines at the back of the airbox without using every curse word in your vocabulary also.
I added your tips to the first post in the thread
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Old 10-14-2012, 05:41 PM   #104
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Originally Posted by NCD View Post
You can remove and reinstall the 3 lines at the back of the airbox without using every curse word in your vocabulary also.
Yes, for sure! And you're kindness in reminding everyone about that qualifies you for a massive kharma bonus.

That finger exercise rivals Steve Vai when you are connecting the lines.
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Old 10-16-2012, 04:17 AM   #105
CaliKarl
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Thanks for this post! About to begin the valve adjustment procedure, but need shims first. So which ones do I buy? Should I just ask the dealer to send me a couple different ones? With gas at $5.00+ here in L.A., making a trip to the dealer costs about $15. Thanks.
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