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Old 04-05-2013, 11:09 AM   #2086
SoPaRider
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Hi Kirk:

In the first picture of your post #2084 it appears? there is quite a gap between the pannier frames and the side of the bike, is there a reason for this?; tool carrier/turn signal location/permits attaching wider gear to top of pannier lids perhaps? Could or would you be able to mount the racks any closer to the sides of your bike? Have you built a set of racks and panniers for a DR650SE yet? Diggin' your work!

Thanks,

Jeff (SoPaRider)
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:14 PM   #2087
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoPaRider View Post
Hi Kirk:

In the first picture of your post #2084 it appears? there is quite a gap between the pannier frames and the side of the bike, is there a reason for this?; tool carrier/turn signal location/permits attaching wider gear to top of pannier lids perhaps? Could or would you be able to mount the racks any closer to the sides of your bike? Have you built a set of racks and panniers for a DR650SE yet? Diggin' your work!

Thanks,

Jeff (SoPaRider)
Thanks, Jeff,

I made them a touch wider than needed so I can remove the side plastics without removing the panniers and racks. If it weren't for that, I could have easily made them 2" narrower overall. If I were to move the rear signals inward, I could probably make them 4" narrower. I don't really off-road, and there's no lane-splitting here, so I wasn't too worried over the extra width for my personal use. I look at it as extra leg protection for the next bambi hit / slide.

I have not made any racks for a DR as of yet.
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Old 04-05-2013, 02:24 PM   #2088
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Having fun in the garage today perfecting my craft. I am very happy with the TIG welding progress!



Uniformity is much, much better.



I'm getting better with stops/starts as well. As I approach the end, I back out of the pedal, make one extra dab of filler, and do a small circular motion as I come out of the pedal. It's fun learning new techniques.

Nothing much to see on the creative homefront, but it is about time to be thinking about that BBQ grill / smoker that I've been thinking about all winter. I don't want a huge one, but I also don't want it too small. I was thinking maybe a larger one for home use, and a smaller one to take camping. I was looking at some out of date propane cylinders in my building thinking they'd be pretty awesome for a small charcoal grill - if I can cut them apart w/o blowing myself to the moon. Decisions, decisions.

I have ideas floating in and out of my pea brain all the time, and I need to write them on paper and set them in order of priority. Kids want a cool jungle gym of some sort, I'd like a tongue box on the utility trailer for straps, still need to build an adustable jig for setting pannier frame hoops, etc, etc, blah, blah, blah... Never a dull moment around here.
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:23 PM   #2089
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Thanks for the heads-up, Jim! Every little bit helps.
More heads-up.



Using the dimensions from my paniers, add two inches to the drop, put an angle between the tabs (arrows) and HT Bag mounts on the top arrows and you can fit a set of your bags on a GS Adv Rack. I can get you the dimensions, or you just send the bags to the buyer with the parts and let them add the holes where they want them. Instant bags on GS Adventure racks!

Jim
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Old 04-05-2013, 08:50 PM   #2090
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Originally Posted by JimVonBaden View Post
More heads-up.



Using the dimensions from my paniers, add two inches to the drop, put an angle between the tabs (arrows) and HT Bag mounts on the top arrows and you can fit a set of your bags on a GS Adv Rack. I can get you the dimensions, or you just send the bags to the buyer with the parts and let them add the holes where they want them. Instant bags on GS Adventure racks!

Jim
THANKS JIM!!!!!! Nice work!!! I'll have to jot that down in my notebook next to all your original dimensions. Suh-weeet!

Forgot to ask...what's the O.D. on the tube?

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Old 04-06-2013, 04:40 PM   #2091
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I'll measure it, or get my friend to, soon. Looks similar to what you use.

Jim
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Old 04-07-2013, 09:30 AM   #2092
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I was looking at some out of date propane cylinders in my building thinking they'd be pretty awesome for a small charcoal grill - if I can cut them apart w/o blowing myself to the moon. Decisions, decisions.
You can have them steam cleaned so that presumably they're safe to cut, weld and cook on. I've heard of some folks filling them with CO2 or even water to cut them open without any ignition

I'd still give it a good pre grilling (no cooking food, just charcoal and heat) to hopefully burn/boil off and left over hydrocarbons.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:00 PM   #2093
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You can have them steam cleaned so that presumably they're safe to cut, weld and cook on. I've heard of some folks filling them with CO2 or even water to cut them open without any ignition

I'd still give it a good pre grilling (no cooking food, just charcoal and heat) to hopefully burn/boil off and left over hydrocarbons.
Thanks, EG!

Yeah, I've been reading up on it. I've seen where some guys will drop in a few dry ice pellets to keep things under control. Water would be easy, but probably messier than can be.

My nephew just brought me lots of camping wood, so I'll give it a couple good burns before any food gets thrown on it.

Thanks for the tips!
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:12 PM   #2094
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Happy, happy, joy, joy!


Scratch another off the everlasting wanted tool list...



A Di-Acro 6" x 6" 4ton notcher. Rated for 16 ga. mild steel.



It's in pretty primo condition. Fences are adjustable.



It's one of the pre-Strippit versions, so it's USA made. I found this gem 80 miles from my house, so I was in and out in no time flat. Plus, it was a very pretty drive. The whole tiime I was thinking "...too bad the KLR doesn't have a utility hack!" Maybe in time...

The seller was an awesome guy, as is everyone with all of my CL and eBay finds. Half the fun is meeting new people and seeing what they are/were making with the tools. Thanks, Charles!



I takes up a very small piece of real estate, and it's easy to slide around. It should make flat pannier lid fabrication a snap. I'm sure I'll come up with many more uses as well.

I think the next tool may be a 5 TON foot punch press with tooling. Once I put it out there, it seems like it doesn't take long to happen.

Yes! More tools! I'm such a goober. I know, but I can't help it.
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Old 04-07-2013, 03:46 PM   #2095
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
Yes! More tools! I'm such a goober. I know, but I can't help it.
I think the correct phrase is Tool Whore!!!!

I'm amazed at how you've found stuff. Did you search for it, or just put a wtb on CL?

And how did you find your brake? Was it a CL listing?
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Old 04-07-2013, 04:55 PM   #2096
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The rebirth of the Spanco is closer to being done.

Today's project was to straighten out the bent base. Working off some ideas I had, and some suggestions from Keith Fenner over at Turnwright Machine Works I rigged up a "press" to do the straightening.

I used my open 6X10 trailer as a workbench. It's pretty stout and can easily handle the A frames sliding back and forth across the rails.



I laid the A frame across it on some 2X4's. Then I placed some I beam behind the base at the center post and diagonal brace, and added a piece of 4" tube behind that to squeeze the beam back into shape.



This was the press. 1/2" all thread and some slotted angle.


I left the all thread and the angle long since I will use it for something else later.

It fit on the frame like this with the frame straddling the point of the bend.


I double nutted the outer end of the all thread so I could tighten the rod against the inner nut and use my impact to do the initial tightening.

Then I tightened


It took a couple tries to bend the base straight again. I tightened it, backed it off, checked for straight, and then repeated a couple times until it was pretty straight.

Not perfect, but close enough.



Then I turned to mounting the casters. When I bought the replacement wheel, I also bought 4 swivel locks. They just mount on the base along with the mounting bolts. As luck would have it, the mounting holes in the base were an exact match for the casters. Some times it's better to be lucky than good! I had previously pumped the casters full of grease. There are three zerks on each one - one for the swivel, one in the wheel bearings, and the other between the axle and a bushing that the bearings ride on. I cleaned up the excess grease before setting the frame back down.



While I had the A frame laying across the trailer, I stood up the I beam and mounted it to the A frame to get a better sense of what I need to do to fabricate the mounting clips.





I just used washers to hold it up for a few minutes, then removed the beam and walked it over to the side. Walking a 8" X 11' beam standing vertically can be a thrill. Got to keep it vertical, or bad things can happen.

I set the one A frame down on the wheels and rolled it over to the I beam and tied it off. It rolls nicely on the wheels, and with the casters locked was really stable.

Then I mounted the casters on the other A frame and set everything off to the side and tied it off. As I was doing so, I noticed the one end of the base was tweaked where the caster mounted. This time, I just got the 5 lb sledge and gave it some love taps.



The next and final step is to fabricate the beam clips. I've taken measurements and have worked on a couple designs. If I only had a big 'ol Bridgeport mill, I know I could fab them easily. It will be a little more challenging with a grinder and other power tools, but I know I can get it done.

Then it's time to mount the beam and have a gantry
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:02 PM   #2097
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post

.......Uniformity is much, much better..............

.......... time to be thinking about that BBQ grill / smoker that I've been thinking about all winter. I don't want a huge one, but I also don't want it too small. I was thinking maybe a larger one for home use, and a smaller one to take camping. I was looking at some out of date propane cylinders in my building thinking they'd be pretty awesome for a small charcoal grill - if I can cut them apart w/o blowing myself to the moon. Decisions, decisions.

........

The welds are improving and looking nicer.

It's kind-of a combination of "Dirty Science" and "Art." Both are things that I have always enjoyed......:grin

Here's a link to another forum. I have and still use this more than I ever could have imagined.

It's not so big that you over-use charcoal. Yet big enough to feed 4-5 people, in one cooking session. The lid provides air control/temp. The internal size makes grill replacement as easy as a trip to a BigBox store.

Check it out.....

http://weldingweb.com/showthread.php?t=37555

-Rhyno
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But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....

Rhyno screwed with this post 04-07-2013 at 06:59 PM
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Old 04-07-2013, 06:35 PM   #2098
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post

.......larger one for home use, and a smaller one to take camping. I was looking at some out of date propane cylinders in my building thinking they'd be pretty awesome for a small charcoal grill - if I can cut them apart w/o blowing myself to the moon. Decisions, decisions.

........
Propane tanks are easy to find and a lot of people have used them for BBQs. I personally don't like them because of their size. Not only the diameter, but also the thickness. The thickness makes the whole thing rust out quickly because of acids and oxidations from the charcoal, but also their previous life.

If you decide to use one, make sure it is empty, and start to figure out some "Riggin."

It'll be tight, but the top valve unscrews. Wrap some motorcycle tie-downs around an unmovable corner post and the tank, with a few wraps. Make sure the corner post has some sort of stop to keep the whole thing from rotating. (Multiple wraps of the Tie-Down around the tank, by itself, will prevent the tank from spinning.) Find a wrench that fits the valve, and get a 5 foot cheater bar.

Once the valve is unscrewed, fill the tank with water. The water will purge all flammables. Fill it up with water, then pour it all out.... Now you are SAFE to cut and grind. (as long as your purging is happening in a different place from your cutting.)

A 5" grinder with a .065" Wafer wheel will cut a finer/smoother/better looking line than Plasma, Oxy/Acet torch, a Jig saw, or anything else. (Of course, lay it out with a straight edge and scribe.) Plus with a thinner cut, the pieces will line up to make a nicer lid/hinge joint.

Also, a round wheel sometimes is tough to do a square corner, so you might have to cut 99% and then finish the corners with a hand held jig saw. Once the pieces are apart, be light handed, but then dress the edges with a grinder.

Get some weld on barrel hinges. Don't get the ones with grease Zerks. Don't use grease, unless you want your burgers to taste like wheel bearings....:haha


Well that is probably enough.....(collar bones and neck are hurting)

Keep up the good work...

-Rhyno
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But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....

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Old 04-07-2013, 06:41 PM   #2099
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Originally Posted by EvilGenius View Post
You can have them steam cleaned so that presumably they're safe to cut, weld and cook on. I've heard of some folks filling them with CO2 or even water to cut them open without any ignition

I'd still give it a good pre grilling (no cooking food, just charcoal and heat) to hopefully burn/boil off and left over hydrocarbons.
The bigger/hotter the fire, the better.....

I even burn prior to painting. It just depends on the original coating.
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But, if I "all of a sudden disappear.... ...." hopefully I didn't suffer too much....

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Old 04-08-2013, 05:35 AM   #2100
kirkster70 OP
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Originally Posted by 9Dave View Post
I think the correct phrase is Tool Whore!!!!

I'm amazed at how you've found stuff. Did you search for it, or just put a wtb on CL?

And how did you find your brake? Was it a CL listing?


I just look and look and look. The shear and brake both took almost 2 years of searching CL, ebay, local papers, etc. to find. I prefer to buy from private sellers, but it's hard to do because there are several local guys who snatch up these tools just to flip. Not to mention that I'm starting to get picky about what I buy after driving 14 hours to buy a tractor with nearly 50 holes drilled in it. ;)

So, I paid a little more than I should have on the brake from a wholesaler because I was getting frustrated in looking. The 52" foot shear came from a private seller on CL, and was a bonafide deal at $1,100. It even came with an extra 4-sided blade.

The recent notcher came from a private seller on CL and took about 6 months to find. He didn't have Di-Acro in the heading, so I think the local "flippers" didn't pick up on it, which was good for me. There is a guy in York, PA, and a guy in Jersey who has the username sambuca on ebay. The notcher would have been easy for either to get to, but again, I think since he didn't have Di-Acro in the title, they didn't see it.

The notcher was also super affordable at $650. That made it easy to go and buy. I can now notch out an entire lid in the time it took to manually cut one single corner. No measuring, no scribing. Set the stops, pull the handle, BING!

The 5TON foot operated punch/press I'm looking at will be north of $1500, so I need to save my pennies to buy that bad boy. But I'll keep looking until it happens. I want to tool it for the slip hinge slot, I want some dimple dies for recessing key locks, and the small press brake dies for small reverse bend bracketry would also be handy for what I'm currently doing. There are several hundered different dies made for the punch/press.

I got some really good tips from the guy I just bought the notcher from. He was an awesome source of info. I like learning new tips from the guys in the trenches doing it day to day.

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