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Old 02-25-2012, 01:07 PM   #631
kirkster70 OP
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I agree with the guy who posted that 6 isn't nearly enough! Ha Ha!. Pretty slick idea threre.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:10 PM   #632
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Oh well! But that's a nice search engine for CR!
Try it again and enter Miller tig in the search box.

In central NJ (54 miles from 11101 Long Island) a guy has a 180SD and a 180MM. He's selling one and keeping one. He must have reworded the ad (or I read it too fast). I thought they were $900 ea, but it looks like one is $1400, one is $900. Still unsure on that.



Miller tig welder used twice.with accessories .Also have a Miller mig welder 180 millermatic,New in box with cart and extras for $ 900.00.I am selling one and keeping one,so you have a choice if interested.call Jerry 973 670 3588





Not only am I good at spending my money, I'm REALLY good at spending other's money.


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Old 02-25-2012, 01:19 PM   #633
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Miller Tig Welder - $1250 (Jackson NJ)




Like New, Miller AC/DC Tig Welder, Foot pedal frequency control, comes with argon tank/gauges shown
  • Location: Jackson NJ
  • it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:28 PM   #634
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I found my twin in Alaska! An all red cab does look nice!

Honda Tractor - $5000 (Anchorage)







Honda tractor with 42 inch snowblower. 4 wheel drive and 4 wheel steering. Wheel weights and chains. Home built cab. Runs and looks great. 4x10 tilt trailer included. Asking $5,000 or best offer. Call 345-0542 ask for Ed
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:34 PM   #635
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but no speed holes
ARGHHHHH!
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:46 PM   #636
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Or shade or heater or accessory lighting.
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Old 02-25-2012, 01:49 PM   #637
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Or shade or heater or accessory lighting.
sic' em, Timmer!
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Old 02-28-2012, 12:30 AM   #638
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Very good advice. Thank you. Another gent pmed me and told me to make some PVC tubes to keep the AL from oxidizing, which is also a great idea. Thanks, guys. Every little bit helps.

I can second the PVC tubes for storing consumables. I also add a small desiccant pack to the tube. All of my filler wire survived a few years in Hawaii in those setups. Everything corrodes in Hawaii, so I take that as testament to the tubes and desiccant working their magic.
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Old 02-28-2012, 06:15 AM   #639
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^ Sounds like a plan. Tomorrow I will swing by Lowe's and pick up a stick of 2" PVC and a bunch of end caps.

I'm going to try something I've never tried before...I have some guts from some low-voltage outdoor accent lighting and I want to try to make some decorative light fixtures out of copper by using the guts from the lights.

I had the idea to use a maple leaf as a template, and plasma cut it out of copper sheet. Bend it in a sconce shape and TIG it together.

I have a couple small scraps of copper that I'm going to experiment with. I know I can fuse it together, but I'm not sure what filler rod I need. Silicon-bronze maybe? I saw a guy on yt using #12 AWG solid as filler wire and it was working for him. I've got a couple other artistic type welding projects that I'm going to try after doing the landscaping lights.

I'm also buying my son his first nice RC car for his upcoming birthday and thought it would be neat to make a front bumper out of small aluminum tube. I think what allowed me to learn MIG so quickly was having project after project to work on. I figure if I line up some small back-to-back TIG jobs, maybe I can learn TIG at a good pace as well.

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Old 02-28-2012, 01:50 PM   #640
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^
I have a couple small scraps of copper that I'm going to experiment with. I know I can fuse it together, but I'm not sure what filler rod I need. Silicon-bronze maybe? I saw a guy on yt using #12 AWG solid as filler wire and it was working for him. I've got a couple other artistic type welding projects that I'm going to try after doing the landscaping lights.
I do a bit of artistic stuff with copper and when dealing with thin sheet it's hard to beat old fashioned solder and a small torch. Clean the copper well and use flux. A little trick to keep the solder from running over other areas is to use white-out, the bottled stuff. Paint the areas you don't want solder to get on. The torch heat will cause the white-out to carbonize and you can remove it easily when you're done.

Here's on that was a donation to an animal shelter charity auction. About 20" tall and all out of copper flashing. Beat to shape, heat colorized, and soldered as needed.

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listen mister, we didnt evolve porcelin shitters just so we could squat to take a shit, like monkeys.

josjor screwed with this post 02-28-2012 at 01:56 PM Reason: Added pic
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Old 02-28-2012, 02:51 PM   #641
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Very nice work!!!! Thanks for the info! Where do you get your flashing? How thick is it? I really am unsure on how thick I need. 22ga? less? more? I have no clue.

I've been reading up a bit on TIGging copper. It can be done, but needs about 3x the heat aluminum does to start a puddle.

Copper releases many heavy metals while welding, so extra precautions for ventialtion/respiration need to be taken for welding. I have a fresh air hood from my painting days that I'm going to try to adapt to my welding hood to solve that. It will also work great for welding galvanized.

Thin sheet can be fused with no filler. Some guys are using copper wire as filler on thicker copper. Deoxidized copper filler rod or any alloy copper rod like sil-bronze similar to the parent material can be used. There are 4 different copper alloy filler rods, each with a different alloy. (aluminum, tin, silicon, and brain fart on the 4th)

Straight Argon on thin copper, and Helium/Argon mix on anything over 1.6mm for more heat and penetration.

I have ceriated tungstens and have read that they will be fine.

I'm going to experiment some on the next break before ordering what I think I may need. A torch with silver solder would probably be the most economical route, but I want to try it with TIG. I just need to order some filler and some copper sheet. There won't be a lot of welding. Just enough to hold it together. It's not something structural, either.

I just like learning new things.
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Old 02-28-2012, 03:01 PM   #642
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I can't give any TIG advise, sorry.

You can buy a roll of copper flashing at any builders store/lumber yard. I've not measured it, but it feels like about 20 guage. I do a lot of metal sculpture type stuff so I've fenagled my way onto the board of my local non-profit recycling center. They keep an eye out for me for scrap that I tell them I'm interested in so I've scored some copper from them as well.

It's fun stuff to work with. Bowl shapes, sculptures, ornamental work. Hammer, anneal, hammer. Repeat as needed.

I've never TIG'd copper so I can't say, but............you may end up with scale on the copper. Make a bath of 90% water and 10% muriatic acid. Soak the coppere in it and it will remove the scale. Doesn't take long and be careful with the acid.
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listen mister, we didnt evolve porcelin shitters just so we could squat to take a shit, like monkeys.
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Old 03-02-2012, 10:34 AM   #643
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I do a bit of artistic stuff with copper and when dealing with thin sheet it's hard to beat old fashioned solder and a small torch. Clean the copper well and use flux.
I agree- copper can be a stinking (literally) pain to tig vrs how easy it is to solder. I think the white out idea was awesome, never heard of it. Heres one a lot of people already know, dont use sharpie where you are welding. Its like welding through a thin layer of paint, even if it welds o.k. your weld can be compromised. Many people will mig through it and say I am wrong, but have the welds tested and see. Tig through it and you can see the problem it causes, I believe and could be wrong, that the make up of the ink out gas's with the heat and causes contamination. Someone here can probably explain it much better then I can.
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Old 03-03-2012, 06:12 PM   #644
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Yeah, I'm thinking I'm going to nix the copper idea. Just because something can be done doesn't mean it should be done. All the toxic heavy metal fumes being "liberated" from welding copper is the main turn-off.

I was going to age the copper with a finish anyway, and I can do the same thing to mild steel sheet metal by giving it a copper finish when complete. Besides, if I had real copper landscaping lights out front, some douche would probably take them to the scrap yard.

It was a good thought while it lasted.
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Old 03-03-2012, 09:25 PM   #645
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Yeah, I'm thinking I'm going to nix the copper idea. Just because something can be done doesn't mean it should be done. All the toxic heavy metal fumes being "liberated" from welding copper is the main turn-off.

I was going to age the copper with a finish anyway, and I can do the same thing to mild steel sheet metal by giving it a copper finish when complete. Besides, if I had real copper landscaping lights out front, some douche would probably take them to the scrap yard.

It was a good thought while it lasted.
You still have a great idea my friend - When you said this "I was going to age the copper with a finish anyway, and I can do the same thing to mild steel sheet metal by giving it a copper finish when complete." you are spot on, cheaper material and you can give it the look, then polyurethane it. I was in mexico a couple weeks ago talking to a guy who makes all kinds of the crap they sell to tourists and he brazed steel then coated it with something (I couldnt understand what he was saying) then coated it with Polyurethane, if you didnt have a magnet you would hardly be able to tell. Really looked good.
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