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Old 09-18-2012, 08:56 AM   #841
kirkster70 OP
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Originally Posted by C-Stain View Post


I figure in about 2 or 3 hundred years, scholars will look back on this thread and proclaim Kirkster70 as the Da Vinci of our generation. You sir, are an artist!
Well, I don't know about all of that, but thanks for the vote of confidence!

I've always considered myself the jack of all azz.
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Old 09-18-2012, 09:08 AM   #842
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All right, DirtyDog, thanks for keeping me in check. You guys don't be afraid to crack the whip if you see me messing up along the way.



Shape that was previously cut out is TIGged back in place.



...underside as well. The customer will appreciate this, and so do I.



Laying out for the patch panel. Getting ready for some plasma action.



Here's the really cool part about these Digital Elite hoods... multiple functions for multiple jobs. I use this setting for plasma cutting. Shade is adjustable with the push of a button.



Grind mode...



I really like X-mode. It relys on an electromagnetic field to trip the lens. Great for low amp TIG that sometimes doesn't trip the standard setting. Also good for out of position welds where your sensors are blocked. Also good when it's sunny outside and every time you turn you head, the lens trips. X-mode eliminates all those problems. Large viewing area lets you see everything. No whipping your head for your lid to close and then losing your starting position. If you have all your pieces cut out, you rarely lift the lid at all.



Standard weld mode is what I normally use for indoor MIG. Pricey lid, but worth every penny to me. They have proven to be very durable.



Extension piece welded in. I'll take all the TIG practice I can get. It doesn't hurt my feelings one bit to run a few extra beads.



Ditto for the underside. Hole drilled for oil drainage. Don't frown, megabash. It will all be better soon.

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Old 09-18-2012, 09:56 AM   #843
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I love your welds at the end of the sheet. I have a hard time preventing a small 'mouse bite' at the edge of the sheet. I solved it once by leaving a little extra material there, weld, and then cut off the extra 1/2" of material.
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Old 09-18-2012, 07:25 PM   #844
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I love your welds at the end of the sheet. I have a hard time preventing a small 'mouse bite' at the edge of the sheet. I solved it once by leaving a little extra material there, weld, and then cut off the extra 1/2" of material.
Thanks! Yeah, I'm still figuring it out as I go. I normally place a tack at each end, and when I get to this tack, I normally have 2 or 3 more "dimes" to go. I start backing off the pedal to where the puddle just barely takes the filler wire.

I was having troubles with cold cracking and craters at the end before I figured that out, and still have a LOT to learn on my end.

When I start seeing the puddle flattening out during the run, I also back out of the pedal. I try not to pulse the pedal, and prefer to keep the heat constant. I was practicing with a piece of scrap and was holding one single puddle for a long time in one place without falling through by controlling the pedal. I thought that was pretty neat-o. Once I figured that out, I knew I didn't have to move quickly just to keep from falling through.

I'm having fun figuring it out. The initial frustration has now turned to excitement to get under the hood some more.

I'm left handed, so I'm traveling L to R. If you look closely, the weld looks tight and crisp on the left, and about midway through, you can see it get wide and sloppy from the heat. Learning how to back out of the pedal is what I need to pay more attention to. It's hard finding the perfect balance point and then maintaining it. I'm hoping it will come with time.

kirkster70 screwed with this post 09-18-2012 at 07:44 PM
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:15 AM   #845
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I don't have a pedal, so I just travel a bit faster.
I am still in doubt: should I try to modify the welder a bit more to accept one, or should I just continue without it and adapt myself? Adapting myself is more versatile; I am already missing a third hand while TIG-welding and a pedal can be a PITA also when welding on the bike itself.
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:47 AM   #846
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I don't have a pedal, so I just travel a bit faster.
I am still in doubt: should I try to modify the welder a bit more to accept one, or should I just continue without it and adapt myself? Adapting myself is more versatile; I am already missing a third hand while TIG-welding and a pedal can be a PITA also when welding on the bike itself.
What are you using - a finger remote?
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Old 09-19-2012, 10:59 AM   #847
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I start on recessing the mounts. I use a 1 3/4" holesaw to cut through some scrap 3/16" aluminum plate.



I TIG the slugs on the inside.



Underneath view. Yep, that'll work.



I do the lower mounts first, then re-mount the bash plate. During mock-up, I had washers stacked to make up the thickness of the slugs. After verifying the upper mounts lined up, the bash plate comes off once again to TIG the recessed upper mounts.

Now I make a new template for the R side out of cardboard and tape it in place to have a look.





After cutting out the shape, I lay some fillet welds at the ends so that I can bend the piece into place as I go without the outer tacks breaking.



After much beating and banging, it conforms enough to do another fillet. The mess you see under the torch is from using a dirty no-bounce hammer. Looks like I need a dedicated aluminum beating hammer now!



I start connecting the welds together inside.

Lunch break is over, so I need to go get back on it. Since it has cooled, I will mount the bash plate back on the bike to check for warping issues, and to make the left side pattern. Slowly but surely, it's taking shape. Until next time...
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Old 09-19-2012, 02:38 PM   #848
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Double cutaway for hitting the high notes.



Getting there...



Mounted up and waiting on some input from the customer to finalize the design.







All shapes will be radiused better once I'm sure the customer's riding boots clear.





Plenty of room for doohickey adjustment.







I present to you Megabash. When it starts showing up in the bolt-on catalogs, you can say you saw it here first.


I'm extremely happy with the outcome. It's a milestone for me in that it's my first TIG job with good enough exterior welds that didn't need help from the grinder to look good. This bash plate makes the first one I made for my KLR look like a total turd. Heheheh.

I might have to make another for myself...

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Old 09-20-2012, 05:52 PM   #849
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Loving that skid plate!! Just got to school starting Monday!
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:14 AM   #850
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More fancy circle template useage. That's all for today. I'm whupped.

I love the "Adjustable" templates! Nothing like the easiest, cheapest way to make things happen.
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I figure in about 2 or 3 hundred years, scholars will look back on this thread and proclaim Kirkster70 as the Da Vinci of our generation. You sir, are an artist!
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:15 AM   #851
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What are you using - a finger remote?
No, just what came with the welder, and that is a single pushbutton on the handle operating in 4-stroke mode
I can set two currents on the front dash of the welder. Then:
- Push the button, arc ignites and welding starts with current #1
- Release the button, current goes to current #2
- Push button again, current goes to current #1 again.
- Release button, arc turns off.

I think that is how most older DC welders work.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:19 AM   #852
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That looks pretty dam nice to me!
Most welders like to leave the weld to show off there skill. I would grind down my welds (if I could weld that is) to NOT show them. In my mind that takes more skill. :shrug
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Ditto for the underside. Hole drilled for oil drainage. Don't frown, megabash. It will all be better soon.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:24 AM   #853
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Very nice work! What do you think about adding holes for mud and water to drain out of the bottom? It would add a little ventilation also.
You could call it the "tractor mod"
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Old 09-21-2012, 08:32 AM   #854
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That looks pretty dam nice to me!
Most welders like to leave the weld to show off there skill. I would grind down my welds (if I could weld that is) to NOT show them. In my mind that takes more skill. :shrug
Actually grinding down welds makes them significantly weaker.

Not a big deal if it's not a structural member or strictly a show only piece, but you definitely want to see a nice pretty bead on something like a bash plate or tube structure.
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Old 09-21-2012, 01:24 PM   #855
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Loving that skid plate!! Just got to school starting Monday!
Thanks! You're going to have fun in class! Make sure to post all your welding projects. I can't wait to see the kewl stuff you're going to be working on!
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