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Old 12-28-2012, 01:29 AM   #1216
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post

Dearborn's adjustment pins appear to be identical to what I picked up at Kirk Supply. I mean Tractor supply, and they only use one.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:40 AM   #1217
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Kirk,

Since you will not make adjustments while the gantry is under load, just place pins into holes from the inside vs outside. Handles will be away from the cables and moving the pins 180* is pretty simple
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:58 AM   #1218
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Skip the gussets on the side and put a base plate on between the legs,mount the casters to that. or run flat iron on the bottom (like your original gusset) and the post can still lower down to the floor if needed.In that design the lower gusset will be stronger then midway. I wouldnt sorry about the come-along issue - somthing tells me your going to have a chain fall or other hoist after a few times using a come-along anyhow
Another pretty sweet project, your going to need a bigger garage soon.
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Old 12-28-2012, 04:47 PM   #1219
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Once again, I see that the holes should have been turned 90 degrees. This isn't quite how I planned on doing the gussetts. These are merely scrap pieces from the legs. This would work, just not how I pictured it... I wanted the gussetts boxed, not open. I could still do that if I welded the nuts to the sleeve...
You're rotating the post 90 anyway right? If so the sleeve and bolt holes rotate 90 along with them (without you having to drill new bolt holes.) The bolts then pass through the sleeve front to back, you know, perpendicular to the gusset. Welded nuts would not be needed.

Regarding the boxed gussets, maybe cut a new set. Using tube cut at an angle as a gusset is a good idea. An easy way to get a boxed gusset is to cut the tube so the gusset is 'open on the bottom'. You know, so the 'open side' faces the channel. (What's the channel for anyway? Aren't you using an I-beam as the crossmember?)

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I'm seriously considering drilling another series of holes here on the side, 4" o.c, so I can rotate the post and make everything good.
I think that's a fine idea.

A pair of tie straps on each pair of legs would be good idea. The single strap on one side of the legs creates a torsion load.



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Old 12-28-2012, 05:19 PM   #1220
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Melding sucks, I need some lessons:




On the other hand, my grinding skills are improving fast!



Should hold though, and you can't see the welds.



Jim

PS In a tiny bit of defense, I am using a HF flux core wire welder.
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Old 12-28-2012, 05:49 PM   #1221
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Melding sucks, I need some lessons:




On the other hand, my grinding skills are improving fast!



Should hold though, and you can't see the welds.



Jim

PS In a tiny bit of defense, I am using a HF flux core wire welder.
I thought that was brass looking by the first pic!

Spraypaint covers a multitude of sin. At least it does in my projects!

Looks good to me, Jim!
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:11 PM   #1222
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Thanks for all the input, guys. I've been thinking about everything all day. After getting in from work, I do a little more...



3/4" nuts with heavy tacks on each flat. Now I can do an enclosed gussett here.



Zinc ground from the welded area of the channel. I decided to do a piece of channel with a gussett due to many telescopic gantry vids I've seen that show them a little wobbly. I also want this to unbolt, so I need something to gussett to. That's where the channel comes in. This should add some rigidity (when done) while remaining modular.

The "gussetts" in the earlier pic were just pieces of scrap I laid in place to get a visual for clearances.



The galvanized metal welds so-so, even ground to bare metal. I'm guessing this is due to the porosity holding some of the zinc still.

I'm not cutting anything apart this far along. I'll just have to pin from the inside and do better next time if there is a next time on another gantry.

I know that a channel connecting the lower legs at the very bottom would be strongest, but that also takes away almost 10 inches of overall reach on the height. I've seen several companies producing them the way I did, only with a lighter gusset than I have at the same height, so I think I will be alright at 1 ton. If I see extreme deflection, I can always add another plate in a similar fashion down lower, but I don't think it's needed for one ton. I am only basing this on what I've seen being manufactured by others that are rated at 2 tons, yet built lighter that what I have here.

I sincerely appreciate everyone's input. I thank you all.

I'm hoping to get much more knocked out tomorrow...
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Old 12-28-2012, 06:20 PM   #1223
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Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post
I thought that was brass looking by the first pic!

Spraypaint covers a multitude of sin. At least it does in my projects!

Looks good to me, Jim!

Thanks, you are over kind!

Quote:
THIS is a weld. I need a lot more practice, and better equipment!

Jim
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Old 12-28-2012, 08:38 PM   #1224
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The galvanized metal welds so-so, even ground to bare metal. I'm guessing this is due to the porosity holding some of the zinc still.
If by porosity you mean the blemished channel surface, that looks like a pretty good thickness of mill scale on the channel surface. Welding on mill scale causes spatter.



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Old 12-29-2012, 02:15 AM   #1225
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I woke up this morning with a new idea for the bottom gussetts....

Instead of plating only one side like I have done (so one side can be open for come-along adjustments), and instead of running a straight piece of channel across the very bottom of the legs (which takes away 9" or so of headroom due to the post not going all the way to the floor), I can do an offset gusset that still connects the very bottom...

Offset the gussett down the same height of the wheels. That should only take about 2" away from the total reach (the thickness of the channel) while still keeping the full strength of a bottom gussett. Hmmm...... time to pay another visit to the scrapyard...

Currently in coffee-slamming mode and letting everyone get their beauty sleep before I fire up the grinders!

kirkster70 screwed with this post 12-29-2012 at 02:33 AM
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Old 12-29-2012, 05:23 AM   #1226
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More Keith Fenner stuff.

Check out the rotating fixture he built (at about 1:10). Why move around the piece when you can make the piece move instead!

Just don't copy his use of protective equipment for welding.
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Old 12-29-2012, 09:17 AM   #1227
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I'll have to watch that later tonight...

I know what you mean on safety. He scares the crap out of me when he's reaching in with his bare hands while running the lathe.

I saw him shaping a short parting bit on the pedestal grinder also with his bare hands, and in his next video, he was wearing a band-aid where he knocked the bark off his finger.

Man is awesome to watch, though. He has me pining away for a mid-sized Clausing now.
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Old 12-29-2012, 11:22 AM   #1228
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Loads o'piccys on this coffee break...



3/16" plate...



...chop-chop...



...zap-zap...



Ever wonder why I have diagonal cutters in most pics?



ream-ream...



This was the buildup from nasty galvanized welding. Now the gas can flow.



See that little booger ball on the end?



Trim it off with the same pliers. The clean wire will help with the next arc instead of it skipping.



Robot shoes fully welded. Take me to your leader.



Bolt clears gussett perfectly.



Big difference between clean (vertical) and galv. (horiz.) metals. Travel speeds and all settings identical.



More chop-chop...



More eyeballin'...



I-beam center, web, and flanges laid out. 1/2" hardware laid out for drill centers...



Drill-drill...



...zap-zap...



Coffee break over. Get back to the robot shoes, slacker!
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Old 12-29-2012, 12:07 PM   #1229
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kirkster70 View Post

Instead of plating only one side like I have done (so one side can be open for come-along adjustments), and instead of running a straight piece of channel across the very bottom of the legs (which takes away 9" or so of headroom due to the post not going all the way to the floor), I can do an offset gusset that still connects the very bottom...

Offset the gussett down the same height of the wheels. That should only take about 2" away from the total reach (the thickness of the channel) while still keeping the full strength of a bottom gussett.
The member we're calling gusset is is a tie, meaning it's always under tension. Being under tension, it doesn't need to be much. A cable and turnbuckle would do for example.

If a full square tube between the wheels is the way you're going, you can always put a sleeve in the middle of it to allow the main post to pass thru and drop all the way to the floor. Important note, the nearer that cross tie is to the ground, the less of a ramp-to-floor angle the gantry will be able to traverse. You know, like where the ramp of the driveway meets the garage floor.

Regarding clearance for the come-along, I'm thinking the come-along doesn't necessarily need to be hooked to the bottom of the post to be able to lift it. Any one of the holes in the post can be a lift point. Use a hoist ring or a d-ring tie down under a bolt head.



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Old 12-29-2012, 01:36 PM   #1230
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You might find this interesting: http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/s...28#post2789428

Jim
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