DIY: Crashbar stud mounts step-by-step

[Qwik]

Installed my Crashbars today (Took em off to paint em) and I gotta tell ya. This makes it MUCH Easier to do.

[scorpion]

Thanks for spelling it all out.
I was just going to start researching the hardware needed to do this fix. Now I just gotta get some studs and dig my crash bars out of the junk pile.

[mtb_man]

Thanks for the writeup Geek. If/when I install crashbars, this little mod will come in handy.

[Orangecicle]

Thanks, Geek. I crossthreaded BOTH crashbar mounts last night, so I'll be out today finding an M8, 1.25 tap and some studs.

Much appreciated.

[Rapid Dog]

Brilliant! Id'a kept my crashbars had I thought o that!

[Orangecicle]

Geek, I couldn't find allthread, but I found M8 X 1.25 X 50 bolts and cut off the heads with a dremel. I buried the rough end into the mount, and then I used three flat washers topped with a standard nut tightened down just snug. This stack was the same height as the original spacer. Then, I mounted the crash bar and topped with a washer and an M8 locknut. Problem solved!!!

[viola-tor]

Originally Posted by Orangecicle

Geek, I couldn't find allthread, but I found M8 X 1.25 X 50 bolts and cut off the heads with a dremel. I buried the rough end into the mount, and then I used three flat washers topped with a standard nut tightened down just snug. This stack was the same height as the original spacer. Then, I mounted the crash bar and topped with a washer and an M8 locknut. Problem solved!!!

Nice! so many good ideas here, I love it! So you put the rough/cut end facing down into the sub-frame?

[FINNDIAN]

Great idea. One of those things that so simple it makes you wonder why you never though of that before. I've already had to helicoil both of my holes. Studs next time for sure.

[SierraJeep]

I was noticing that several people have gone through this issue (cross-threading) those bolts when trying to re-install the engine guards. When I did my last oil change a couple of weekends ago, I too noticed that (for some reason) the threaded insert had shifted over some and I couldn't get the bolt threaded. I fussed with it for a while and then decided to (again) remove the engine guard and take a look at what was going on...

After looking around (actually, my girlfriend really was the one who discovered it as she was helping me) the threaded insert is part of a bracket (one for each side) that apparently can easily get knocked slightly to one side while you're fussing with removing/installing the oil screen.

I eyeballed that the threads were not centered with the hole (after removing the bolt and spacer) and using a screwdriver (or the handle of a small socket wrench) I was able to simply come up from the bottom and "re-align" (pry) that bracket pretty easily back into its intended position. If you don't, you will likely strip or cross-thread the bolt when tightening those last two bolts on the engine guard.

While this stud idea will likely secure that bracket and keep it from moving when working on the oil screen, if you don't do this upgrade it is pretty simple to check/correct the alignment before you make a time-consuming mistake. Like they say "going slower is faster...."

That is all.

[bikyto]

A stupid question maybe but it looks like none of these bolts/nuts are stainless steel. Isn't a concern with corrosion being directly exposed to the elements?
Any anti corrosion product advised?

I, too, cross threaded one of those and will do the stud replacement
Thanks!

[Dusty]

Back when i used to run the bars, the front bolt was the one to do first, tighten till almost snug then do the rest, and always used blue lock tight on those front 2. Mine have been helicoiled, they aren't long enough and the bolts just don't catch enough threads for my liking, if i knew about timeserts that would have been the way to go. I just may have to try the studdmod and put the bars back on.

[1911fan]

Originally Posted by Qwik

Installed my Crashbars today (Took em off to paint em) and I gotta tell ya. This makes it MUCH Easier to do.

Especially if the crashbars are bent like mine, I bet. I'll be switching to studs this winter when I do the oil/coolant/fuel filters.


1911fan

[Orangecicle]

Originally Posted by viola-tor

Nice! so many good ideas here, I love it! So you put the rough/cut end facing down into the sub-frame?

Right, The bolt was a 50mm in length with threads all the way up. My local Menards had this bolt in chrome, which seemed like a good idea considering the location, although I hate putting chrome on this bike. It's just wrong.

I did a good job of cleaning up the threads after the cut. I rounded the rough end with the dremel, followed by a little work with a good file, and then I ran a regular nut over those threads a couple of times to make sure they were true. Then I sank that end into the subframe part. My subframe bracket was crossthreaded, so I first ran an M8 X 1.25 tap over the threads, then I locked a regular nut and the lock nut together and screwed the bolt into the mount. Unlock the nuts, and you are good to go.

I think you could get away with doing the same thing with 40mm bolts, but the 50s seemed to work fine for me. With the 50s, I'd cut into a few threads just below the head so that the end result is not too tall.

[fast slim]

Any one have any suggestions for a better way of mounting the rear most Bracket (the one that mounts to the frame)?
I have a set of HB crash bars but the P clamp and foam tape that they supply has kept me from mounting them. It is a flimsy set up, that is inevitably going to remove the powdercoat over time. I realize that it's a bad idea to have too stout of a mount because in a wreck it will cause the frame to bend, but there has to be a better way. I have been thinking of cutting the tab an fabricating a round bracket that cups the frame with a delrin instert, I'll post my results if I come up with something good.

[viola-tor]

DirtJack and I just spent the afternoon wrenching and building the crashbar studs. I bought fully threaded 50mm bolts and Jack cut the heads off while I put together the new spacers. They work great! I added flat washers above the plate and above the crash bar tab (under the top nylock). After discussion we decided that blue locktite was plenty in conjunction with the upward tension generated by the double "spacer" nuts, so if there's a problem with header removal or some other thing we can remove the studs without too much fuss.

The only downside I see is that the "plate" thing is now rigidly installed all the time, which makes lining up the lower/side mount tougher (I used to leave some play so the plate could tilt downwards a bit to help, but not anymore!). Still worth it IMO.

Yay! I have another related idea, need to think it through a bit more. I'll report back...