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Old 11-29-2010, 06:52 PM   #46
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In the morning we jumped on the bikes and headed toward Guadalajara. We didn't really have any real reason to go the city other than it happened to be in the direction we are traveling. After some debate, we decided that riding through the city of 4 million wasn't something that we had any desire to do so we detoured to the town of Chapala on Lake Chapala.

It was early in the afternoon when we found a decent looking hotel right downtown near the shore of the lake. When we asked about safe parking, the old hotel keeper pointed at lobby/court yard. What? Really? We can ride up the sidewalk, down the main hallway, past the reception deck and park on the tile in the lobby? Ahhh, Rockstar parking at last!



I know it may not seem like a big deal to some but it was to us!

We headed down to the shore where there was some sort of festival going on. I asked someone what the occasion was and he said, "es domingo", it's Sunday. It seems the more countries we go to, the more we realize how much more social most places are than Canada or the US. Every where you go there are ppl out in the town square just hanging out. Adults, kids, pets, everyone just hanging out, no special occasion required. It's pretty cool.

















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Old 11-29-2010, 10:17 PM   #47
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What an incredible adventure and ride report! Glad you all took the chance to up root and "just dual it." Hope your bike woes are behind you for a while.....that disected BMW was too much! Thanks for taking us along...

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Old 11-30-2010, 11:36 AM   #48
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hi cory
You seem to have put on a bit of weight since i last saw you. Is it those mre,s ?
The few i bought from you were a lifesaver on the BAM last year.

Hope you have a great trip.

Terry
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Old 12-01-2010, 06:50 AM   #49
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hi cory
You seem to have put on a bit of weight since i last saw you. Is it those mre,s ?
The few i bought from you were a lifesaver on the BAM last year.

Hope you have a great trip.

Terry
Hey Terry, yeah Tim lost, I gained. Not the MRE's though! Are you back in London? Any new trips planned?
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Old 12-01-2010, 07:20 AM   #50
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The ride from Ameca to Uruapan was pretty uneventful. The roads were good with some great twisty sections. We were aiming for Morelia but as the sun started to drop it was quite apparent that we wouldn't make it in the light. As the sun went down, so did the temperature. Toward the end of the day we hit a chilly 10C. Over night it dropped more, to the point where even though we were in the hotel, I had to put on a hoodie, toque/beanie and sweat pants. This isn't the weather I was expecting in Mexico!

We got up in the morning and went over our maps. Our goal for the day was about 435km away. We had made plans to reconnect with Troy and Neal on Wednesday morning at Teotihuacan. Teotihuacan is north of Mexico City or as it's called and the roads signs here say, just plain "Mexico".

As we plotted the route, we planned to stay way north to avoid the three ring circus that is Mexico City. We knew we'd be rolling through about rush hour and had no desire to deal with the traffic gridlock.

Other than a 5 min section that included me breaking a car mirror while lane splitting, almost rear ending someone when a taxi darted out in front of them and then almost getting taken out when a car a lane over decided to try to change lanes through me, the right was pretty uneventful until… we hit Mexico City traffic.

We thought we had gone far enough north but the sprawl of the 20million person city was a bit bigger than we had expected.

As the sun started to set (maybe the sun wasn't setting, it just was impossible to see the light through the smog) we hit a wall of traffic. Absolute mayhem. The noise, smoke and traffic was staggering. Within 20 mins of being in the city I had a monster head ache. Tim's eye's were so red he looked demonic. I hadn't been that uncomfortable on a motorcycle since I first started riding 10 years ago.

The last 60km of the day took over 3 hrs to complete. One 20km section of road took us almost 2hrs and that was with lane splitting and even some sidewalk hopping. Trying to follow GPS directions and still watching so you didn't get smeared all over the road was intense to say the least. I can't imagine trying to run that gauntlet with only a paper map. Technology has spoiled us for sure.

We arrived in Teotihuacan 3hours after our scheduled ETA from the mornings planning session. With pounding headaches, sore throats and nostrils full of black, we rolled into the first hotel we saw. It was $100 a night which really destroys the $50/day budget that normally includes fuel, food and hotel but we didn't care. We were just glad to be off the road and out of the smog.

We asked about secure parking and the girl at the desk pointed around the corner and made the gesture of a gate being unlocked and opened for us. We jumped back on our bikes and headed the direction she indicated. Confused, there was no parking lot or gate, just a run of about 20 stairs. Surely she wasn't directing us to ride up the stairs? We're always game for some urban off-roading but I couldn't see the hotel folks being to happy about our big fat bikes slamming, banging and spinning tires up their steps. Then a bell boy appeared in the glass double doors …he was unlocking them. What? No way! Rockstar parking again?! Up the sidewalk, over the threshold and into the carpeted conference room of this very nice hotel.

Tim pulled his helmet off and his face was covered in black soot. He looked like a London chimney sweep from the 1700's, well ok that's a bit of an exaggeration but there was a definite patch of smog on his face. I know Mexico City has the worst air quality in the world but I wasn't expecting to feel that sick, that soon. How anyone here lives past the age of 20, I have no idea. I'm sure whoever imports all the paper face masks is one VERY wealthy person.

Tomorrow the Pyramids of the Sun.

Tim's soot covered face:


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Old 12-01-2010, 07:22 AM   #51
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Hope your bike woes are behind you for a while.....
That makes 2 of us!
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:57 AM   #52
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hi Cory

I was on my way to Kyrgikistan, in june when the troubles kicked off.So not so good a trip as your having.
As for next yr., ?

What me and everyone else really want to know is Cory,was your "wedding" consumated.
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Old 12-01-2010, 02:22 PM   #53
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What me and everyone else really want to know is Cory,was your "wedding" consumated.
Hey, not cool! What happens between a husband and wife is no one else's business

Too bad about your bad luck. Just remember, if it was easy, everyone would do it
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:14 PM   #54
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hi cory
You seem to have put on a bit of weight since i last saw you. Is it those mre,s ?
The few i bought from you were a lifesaver on the BAM last year.

Hope you have a great trip.

Terry
Hey Terry. Good to hear from you. Wish you were here.!

Tim
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Old 12-01-2010, 04:46 PM   #55
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Neither of us felt like doing much after checking into the hotel so our night consisted of updating blogs, catching up on email and watching the movie, "Mr. Brooks", in English with Spanish sub-titles.

The room phone rang early this morning and the voice on the other end was insisting we move our bikes as they had a seminar today and didn't want our bikes as a center piece in their conference room. Tim nor I are morning people and the 7am wake up call was met with much pissing and moaning.

After moving our bikes out and carrying out gear up to the room, neither of us could get back to sleep so after a quick breakfast we grabbed a cab to the Pyramids.

I really wish I could say my lasting impression of this 83km/sq city that once was home to 200,000 people was it's huge scale, it's craftsmanship or it's fascinating history but I can't. The thing I will remember most is the hoards of street vendors try to sell their "authentic" artifacts which are somehow made in China and Taiwan. They are everywhere and really don't like to take no for an answer. There wasn't many tourists there today, perhaps 500 and likely the same number of locals peddling their junk (seriously, a vendor per tourist). They were tapping you on the shoulder while trying to take pics or video, intercepting you while walking and standing right in your path. Seriously irritating.

At the start of the day we were trying to be polite and simply say, "No, sorry, we're not interested, thank you", but as the day wore on it evolved to a firm annoyed "NO", they we just tried to ignore them. By the time we were leaving I just about spit out, "You're ruining my day, f%^k off and die", but I managed to keep that to myself... barely.

Yeah you, leave me alone!!


You too!!


I also found it sad that the urban sprawl has completely surrounded the site. The local town in some spots is about 200 metres from a pyramid. In 2004 the State governor gave permission to WalMart to build a store INSIDE the park boundary Thousands of artifacts were simply dug up and trucked off to the local landfill. The construction workers were fired when to told the media about it. Sad is the only word I can come up with

All that aside, the site is pretty impressive. There are 3 large pyramids and dozens of smaller structures, water ways and large, raised flat top pads. A you sit and look down "The Avenue of the Dead" it's not hard to imagine 200,000 people cheering and screaming at the top of their lungs as the human sacrifices took place.

The Pyramid of the sun is the tallest on the site.








Me (or as I have been nicknamed, Oso Blanco or "white bear" looking down the Avenue of the Dead.


Scale model of the park:














This sign was at the bottom of pyramid steps. My Spanish isn't very good but I think you're not supposed to climb if you've recent been dumped and have a broken heart?!

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Old 12-04-2010, 07:48 PM   #56
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We left the town of Teotihucan the next morning planning a short day and stopping somewhere near Cordoba, about 340km away. It was a pretty average day and we rolled into Cordoba about 4:30pm. Neither of us were quite ready to stop so we decided to put on another 50km or so then grab a hotel for the night.

After riding another 100km we still hadn't seen hotel and it was now dark. There was an off ramp from the auto pista that was right at the toll booth. The ramp went to a small city that definitely would have hotels, too bad we was in the wrong line at the booth plaza and we ended up right back on the freeway with no way to get off. The options were: A) keep riding until we found something or B) ride down the freeway, take the U-turn route, re-pay the $15 each for the toll, go into the city and get a hotel then in the morning turn around and again pay the $15 each and continue on our way. We opted to keep riding until we found something.

After about 100kms we caught up to a traffic jam. It was complete and total gridlock. The people were out of their vehicles drinking, smoking weed and just generally hanging out. It was quite obvious that they had been there for awhile.

Of course we picked our way through the lines of traffic. It was a real life version of Frogger jumping from one lane to the other, to the shoulder, into the ditch, avoiding the bored zombie like motorists and random car door openings while driving by. Then came the rain. It showered a bit in Northern California on the way through but other than that we've have nothing but sunshine. At least this rain was warm. After 2 hours and 28km of near bumper to bumper, non moving traffic we managed to hit the front to discover the cause of the mayhem. There was some construction that was blocking one lane of traffic and shortly after, in the other lane was a stalled semi truck followed by a truck with a flat tire.

If it took us 2 hours to get through it while constantly moving, I would guess the people at the back of the pack spent the night sitting on the highway. Fun.

We rode another 50km in the rain, in the dark our with visors completely fogged over and rain blasting us in the eyes before we found a turn off the toll road. We rolled into Acayucan at 9pm and stopped at the first hotel we saw.

Although very common, I had never stayed at an Auto Hotel before. I'm sure some of you know what they are but for those who don't here's the deal. An Auto Hotel is where you take you lover when you have no where else to go, whether that's because you're married to someone else, still live with your parents, have roommates or whatever the case may be. Most of these hotels have garages do you can park your car without having to worry that your significant other/parents/friends/co-workers will drive by and see it. The rooms are usually very clean and I'm told some even have a stripper pole at the end of the bed The TVs often show porn on every channel. Although ours didn't have any porn, the quality of acting made me think that at anytime the show was going to become x-rated All the actors on TV here make Mark Wahlberg and Keanu Reeves look like Academy Award winners.

We rolled in and were immediately directed through the gate and around the corner, I'm assuming so no one saw us?! The front desk clerk seemed a bit surprised that we wanted 2 rooms and that we wanted them for the whole night. I guess weren't not the kind of customers they normally get around here. $8 for the whole night, works for me.

Once I unloaded all my gear and secured the bike for the night, I started adding up all the toll booth receipts. We covered 520km and it cost us each $65 in toll. We spent another $50 the next day going about 400km to Cuidad Del Carmen. Ouch. I'm looking forward to getting off the pay highways and doing some back country dirt roads.

We're in Campeche tonight and heading off to the Chichen-Itza Pyramids tomorrow. After that we'll ride to Chetumal to meet a friend from Calgary then head into Belize.

Neal and Troy are still in Guadalajara battling with Neal's bike which still isn't running right after it's saltwater drowning. The latest issue, obviously not related to the water, is the spring from the "Do Hickey" spring (a technical KLR term apparently) broke and bit of metal were floating around in motor. The mechanic fished all the spring bits out and ordered another one from the US but to save Neal some money, he opted for the slow shipping option. The fast shipping was 2 day service and the slow was 4 or 5 days....price difference...$1.50US They managed to find a spring from something else that would work so they didn't have to sit and wait over the weekend for parts. They went to leave and Neal got a nasty flat on the rear tire. Whatever caused the puncture, made a mess of the tube (multiple holes). They looked all over but couldn't find a tube the right size so they patched the tire and the tube as best they could and hope to be leaving Guadalajara on Sunday. At some point in Central America we'll meet up again. Neal's had to wrench on the bike the last 15 days in a row, ouch.









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Old 12-05-2010, 01:21 AM   #57
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A great read! Thank you for sharing.
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Old 12-05-2010, 09:20 PM   #58
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A great read! Thank you for sharing.
Glad you're enjoying it. I write partly to keep my family and friends up to date, partly to contribute to the Advrider RR section, partly (hopefully) to inspire people to follow their dreams as other's RR did for me but mostly I write here so I don't forget the things I saw, thought and experienced. It forces me to reflect on the day, good, bad or ugly. I know that if I don't write things down within a few days, I'll forget most of the details.

Today was pretty uneventful as many days are. More tarmac and road kill. Seriously, based on the number of dead dogs on the road I can't believe there are any live ones left. So many on the road and some many horribly unhealthy strays. It's hard for a dog lover like me to see it everyday. I miss my pups

One thing I haven't really mentioned yet or stressed enough is the police presence here. They are everywhere. You can't throw a stone without hitting someone in a uniform with a gun. On one hand it's good to know that there are trained, well armed people everywhere if you need them and on the other hand it's a bit un-nerving that there needs to be so many of them. We haven't seen any crime or violence since we've been here. Other than one area in San Qunitin, we haven't even felt uncomfortable. We've walked down dark streets with laptops in hand on the way to the internet cafe at 10pm with zero issues. People definitely stare, 2 monster gringos tend to stand out in most of the places we've been, but people never do more than stare.

The police and military just wave us through their check stops, often pointing at the bikes and giving us a thumbs up. We've been directed in a few times and they ask some basic questions to which Tim and I generally exchange confused looks and simply reply with, "Canada to Argentina on motos", then giggle and nod like we have an IQ of 43 while making the twisting of the throttle motion in the air. They get bored with us quickly and wave us off. Sometimes we just smile like morons and start handing out TerraNova decals and they forget why they stopped us.

This guy was cool. He spoke good english and was very interested in our trip. He was wearing a mini camera headset (over left ear in the pic). He's the first cop that's let us take a picture...little do they know they're all on video



325km from Campeche to the pyramids of Chichen-Itza. We didn't leave the hotel until almost noon. We stopped at Wal-Mart for some food before heading out. First a couple people stopped to look at the bikes and ask questions, then a couple more. All the sudden there were 20 people crowding around to have a look. Nothing draws a crowd like a crowd. Everybody wants pics with the bikes even if it's with our camera, I don't really understand it but I guess I don't really need to!





Random church along the way:





We stopped that the Oxxo which the Mexican 7-11 for a drink. Next door was the "MWK Gay Disco" and the tunes were blaring. Sunday afternoon, and the disco was booming, weird. A bunch of local bikers rolled up on their 150cc Chinese bikes and scooters (they had nothing to do with the gay disco). They too wanted a pic with the bikes.



We got to Chichen-Itza with just enough time to shower, change and head to the ruins for a light and sound show after dark. The lights were cool and based on the gasps from the Spanish speaking members of the audience, I'm sure the narration was good too but currently my Spanish is about as good as my Russian which is terrible. I managed to pick out one in every 20 words. Even though the voices were dynamic and sounded exciting, the story only kept my interest for a few minutes. I spent the other 42 minutes checking for cute girls in the crowd. Sadly I found none




Here's an email from Troy and Neal who are *trying* to catch up to us.
"Hola

We left Guanajuato this morn after patching Neal's tire cos couldn't find
any bike shops!! We were hoping to get some miles in but 2 miles out of
San Miguel De Allende (ie 40 miles from gt) Neal's patch job burst, so once
again we were stuck on the side of the road pulling his bike apart!!!

Fortunately San Mig is a big town with bike shops, unfortunately they are
all closed cos it Sunday... so we put the front tube in again, I bought a
new tire compressor from town, cos Neal's had shat itself from over-use,
and we are now in town, at a spectacular hotel in the middle of this
spectacular town. We realise that is is actually a blessing though cos
there has been xmas parades and celebrations on, and we are very happy to
be stuck here, we are currently on the roof with a speccy view though I'm
freezing my tits off (Neal reckons its not cold though, this is only
place we can get internet.)

Anyway, back on road tomo though to who knows where...

chao
t"

Hopefully they catch up by Panama so we can sail to Colombia together.

Tomorrow, off to the ruins in the day light.

Cory
aka "Oso Blanco", the artist formerly known as GNP77
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Old 12-06-2010, 03:28 PM   #59
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Up at the crack of 10am, I headed to the restaurant for some breakfast. Blah, the menu was exactly what you'd expect from a tourist hotel in a touristy part of Mexico (we really need to camp more). It was expensive and boring so I jumped on my bike and headed into town for something more authentic. Tim stayed behind and had a scrambled egg MRE.

30 mins later I returned, full of huevos rancheros that had been served on a plastic plate, with a plastic bag over it, by a cranky local with bad hair and too much make-up. $2.50 well spent.

We loaded up our backpacks with water, cameras and video junk...now that I read what I just wrote, I'm thinking water and electronics in the same bag maybe isn't the best option... Anyway, we head the 500yds to the park gate. We are instantly intercepted by the junk vendors. Most of these ones seem to be stationary, manning tables full of trinkets and nik-naks and lucky for us, they seem less aggressive. I'm not sure how any of them make any money. There are so many of them and their things are super cheap. One guy was trying to sell us a 2ft statue of Mayan head and started at $10US and by the time he was done the price was down to 50cents, and we still didn't buy. No one seemed to be buying anything, no idea how they stay in business.

Anyway... here are the pics.









You used to be able to climb to the top but it was closed after a San Diego women fell to her death in 2006.



















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Old 12-07-2010, 09:07 AM   #60
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Looks like you found another wife. They're usually not more than a stones throw away either.
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