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Old 10-20-2010, 09:58 AM   #1
Jimmer OP
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Tres amigos viajeros

Finally, we are two days from departure. All ready to go….

Have I thought of everything?
Feels like it...
Heck, if I forgot something, I can pick it up on the way, can’t I?
Besides, if I can’t even remember what it was, maybe it wasn’t that important after all, right?

So here’s the map… You think we can do this in 3 weeks? Ok, no?... ok so how about say 4 weeks?



Well,.... I sure don't know but ....wow.

So I put out some feelers..., I pondered the notion..., I asked around...,


Mexico in 28 Days



I listened to advice and I got some answers! Well just one answer, really... No,

But, I got this Spanish book.


And I got that.



And all that stuff strapped on it.

So 28 days is not enough? But what if we prioritize, dissect, rebuild and reshape the itinerary? (to death every few minutes until we finally have a complete detailed plan written in stone before we even leave the driveway).

Or...., we could just start at the beginning and see how far we get before we turn around and come home. Ok, that’s the plan. Yeah... we're going to México and we're not sure what the hell we're doing or where the hell we're going, but we'll figure it out. Sure hope someone brought a map...


As you can see, I’m riding the mighty R1200GSADV.
My buddy Gavin will be riding his sturdy F800GS, and his little brother Tony is riding his new KTM 990 Adventure. Somos tres amigos viajeros!!!

And so we wait.... in two days, the adventure begins.
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:19 AM   #2
ficoszac
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hi felas...i am Federico from Zacatecas Zacatecas, if you come to this beatyfull city, contact me, am a biker too, i can help you to get a hostel o wherever you need, my e mail is ficosclub@hotmail.com....... ride carefull
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Old 10-20-2010, 10:46 AM   #3
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4 weeks sounds like a tight schedule to me if you want to really see the country. Have a nice trip, good luck and enjoy . If you need anything while close to Chihuahua, send me a PM.
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:16 PM   #4
Sjoerd Bakker
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Hmmmm,4 weeks? Mexico in 28 days ?where have I read that before...?
Okay , it is possible on the routes you mapped out ,but again no great room for lingering, but then the RIDE that is the thin and you can do it. If you smooth out a few wrinkles on your route plan you could save a bit of backtracking and doubling up on the same highway ,save some ttime/km and add to the scenery covered.
For instances:
In Tabasco you show your green planned route following Mex 180-Mex186 all the way to Francisco Escarcega and on the return you cover the same road again.
Why not stick do that road only once, with side trip to Palenque , and do the other leg,either direction, via Mex 180 which hugs the coast and passes through CD DEL CARMEN and CHAMPOTON,thence to Campeche, an interesting scenic beach -side HIGHWAY and not as many trucks as Mex 186.
In the Yucatan you show a visit to Chichen Itza and Tulum is in the plan but you have a long route on the map. Unless you have a reason for that jog south why not take the more direct route between the two. there are excellent paved roads -if you start from Chichen Itza stay on Mex 180 east through Valladolid9(visit Cenote Dzitnup just west of there) and east of Vall'd in CHEMAX take the highway southeast to COBA (ZA if you want to see some ruins) and then straight to TULUM.) Total about 110km, your route shown is over 250km. Tulum to Valladoloid is obviously the same ,in the other direction.

On days 2 and 3 you plan Naco to Creel- very long day and with present sunlight hours of late October questionable if you can do it.Remember no riding at NIGHT!. Suggest you stop for the night wherever you are- Soto Maynes,Alvaro Obregon,Cuauhtemoc ,Adolfo Lopez Mateos ,San Juanito all have nice hotels.
At Creel do not neglect do do the run out west to the canyon vistas at El Divisadero, a great curvy paved highway as far as San Rafael 55km
Then from Creel you show backtrack to Chihuahua city.Why?.
You can ride south from Creel on beautiful paved highway , up and down thru canyon, then altiplano where speed can pick up. Called variously Mex 23 or Chih 23 or something else.Could do the 15km farm dirt road south out of Guachochic to spectacular Cumbres de Sinforosa overlooks onto canyons- figure on a few hours , which you would have wasted backtracking. Then stay on Mex 23 - Balleza ,south to Mex 24 east to Hidalgo del Parral(overnight?) and from there it is a simple straightforward trip south on Mex 45 to DURANGO,DGO, at least 200km shorter than your green road and just as scenic.
Maybe you have reasons for visiting Torreon area , if not it makes no difference what highway you take.
Perhaps your routing is indicative of the maps you are using. As soon as you get into Mexico stop at an OXXO convenience store, like in Agua Prieta , and chances are good you will find on the counter a display rack selling the smaller,$12 or so Guia Roji Road Atlas of Mexico,
or if you are lucky you can fins a QUIMERA road atlas of Mexico, about same price, more colour topography detail.

Ride safe,Enjoy.
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Old 10-20-2010, 02:40 PM   #5
Johnnydarock
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Hmmmm...4 weeks...ain't going to happen...unless you want to sit on your bike the whole time and not really experience a wonderful country. Do you realize its almost 5,000 miles just to get to Cancun? Me and a buddy shipped our bikes to Texas last April to get more time and still did 4,000 miles in two weeks back to Los Angeles. That's with getting out the door early and riding late. Also...there is no ferry from Cabo to Puerto Vallarta. Send me a private message and I can help you narrow down your itinerary.

Good luck!
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Old 10-20-2010, 04:16 PM   #6
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Wow, thanks Sjoerd and Johnny but...
er wrong map, I meant it was an overview, sort of kind of. And it was meant to be a, a kind of.. a, sort of joke.

dry humor so to speak,...

I set off to create a short introduction about who we were and planned to come up with the rest of the story later. But mainly, I wanted to create a thread link that I could paste into these little home made business cards i wuz makin just to hand out, to new friends i meet along the way... and now I'm wearing my

But I did get the thread started, and I got the cards done too!


And now that I look at it, that doesn't really look like a motorcycle wheel does it?.... In fact, I think it looks more like a.... DOILY!! Oh crap!!!
No matter, mission accomplished.

Now about that map. This map was our, or I should say, Gavin's first effort. And he did a good job considering the stage of planning he was at..., having never been to México. He took a good stab at it. Good enough for government work.

"You see dear/sir, this is why we need more time. We need more time/time-off to really see the country."

But it wasn't or isn't the plan and we don't really have a map. We do have the Guia Roji and some GPS and some other maps and stuff too. (But I don't want to spoil it right now.)

And and yes, we do have a plan.

What is the plan? I will tell you..., soon! See you in México!

Quote:
4 weeks sounds like a tight schedule to me if you want to really see the country. Have a nice trip, good luck and enjoy . If you need anything while close to Chihuahua, send me a PM.
Thanks for the kind offer Ramata and I'll send ya a PM if we go that way. We know we don't have the time to really see the country.

Quote:
Sometimes you have go to México with the time you have, not with the time in México you would like to have. ~ R. Dumsfield
Quote:
hi felas...i am Federico from Zacatecas Zacatecas, if you come to this beatyfull city, contact me, am a biker too, i can help you to get a hostel o wherever you need, my e mail is ficosclub@hotmail.com....... ride carefull
Thanks, we will ride carefully ficoszac. Is you hostel close to el Centro?
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Old 10-26-2010, 10:12 PM   #7
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OMG, what were we thinking?

More than a day late and a dollar (peso) short, we're riding some mighty awesome roads. Time is a bit short, riding all day long, looking for lodging before sunset and finally crashing, exhausted. Uploading the pics will have to wait. This is one big a$$ country. But then, you guys knew that.

It will take more than 4 weeks to eat this pizza!

But it sure is good!!!

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Old 11-03-2010, 02:58 PM   #8
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Day 1: It didn't feel like we were on our way until we got to the river.


The first night was spent at the base of the Harquahala Mountain. 300 miles Free camping there 50 miles west of Phoenix.



Preparing for Mexico.

We stop by a buddies house in Phoenix to check out his new ride.


Many other bikers on the road that day.

Day 2: Kartchner Caverens 250 miles. Didn’t see the caverns, but I’ll bet they’re… cavernous to say the least.





Day 3: Enter Mexico through Augua Prieta. Out hope was to make Bamori today and so it began. To make Bamori before sunset, one must provide time to clear immigration so that you get there before sunset. Make sense? We stay in Mocteczuma at the Hotel San Antonio.


Follow the sign off Carratera Federal 14 (east-west road at south end of town) to the right. The owners name is Jesus. Jesus spent some time in SoCal so his English is quite good.

The good stuff: Jesus speaks English. He had a room with 3 beds. The parking is secure.

Hot coffee in the lobby in the morning.
The bad part: It was an ok deal $400 pesos. (aprox $32us). No hot water. Later I found out that there was hot water in the morning but not before they turn it on (of course). So much for getting an early start. All in all, I would recommend this hotel because it was pretty clean and parking is secure and Jesus is a good fellow.


This place is for the birds.


Day 4: Made it to Bamori. Nice little place, didn’t go in but I’ve heard it’s the best in the area. And I got some pics.





We had planned to make Creel today.


That didn’t happen.

We had to settle for the town of Yecora. Big growing area for the mary jane. Lots of solders riding around in Hum-V’s carting French made automatic rifles. We did not feel especially secure even though the supposed “good guys” were everywhere. We stayed at the King's Hotel. Words can't express just how nice that was.



The next day traveling east on Hwy 16, we chanced to follow some of them as they tossed items out on the highway (it seemed) whenever it looked as if we were about to pass. Just kids having some fun on their big adventure. And what’s more fun than messing with some Gringos that can’t retaliate. Still we chose not to piss them off by blowing past until we had a golden opportunity.
Soon we had carved our way to Parke National de Baseachic. We skipped going to the top of the falls in favor of going to the view point south east of the falls. Good camping here.



Ended the day in Creel. If you stop anywhere in Creel for any amount of time, someone will see you and approach you to offer lodging. We chose to stay at Hotel Plaza Mexicana Margarita’s.

Cèsar Quintero is the manager. His English is quite good and the hotel is very nice and in the middle of town. As you cross the railroad tracks, continue straight past the main street and Hotel Plaza Mexicana Margarita’s is on your right. He prefers cash but will take Visa if necessary. Rate negotiations are normal practice there.



Day 5: We decided to spend a layover day in Creel and did a day ride to Divisadero.

Along the way, Charles from Canada rode up on his KLR. His plans are make it to Panama but today, make a circuit of Urique to Batopilas and back to Creel, camping along the way solo. Charles travels and camps alone with large cajones! We’re not worthy! We’re not worthy! Best travels Charles!


Road construction 5k past San Rafael makes the going to Urique a bit dusty, so after hamburgesa’s in San Rafael, we turned back for Creel.

Day 6: Creel to Guachochi
Saw Bruce and Jean from England at a Pemex halfway between here and nowhere. They're taking 9 months to get from Canada to the tip of South Americe. Another "were not worthy" moment for me.

Bruce and Jean had tried to make it to Batopillas but turned back due to more road construction.

The road south from Creel goes through upper Urique canyon. It’s an amazing route not to be missed!


Then we found Sinforosa overlook. In Guachochi, the turn off to Sinforosa is well signed and easy to follow. After 17km of dirt road we came upon a locked gate. After a minute a viejto came out to request 10 pesos to gain entrance. He told us we would have to have just an hour to see the view before the gate was closed for the night. When I mentioned al camper por la noche, he said ok, opened the gate and we had Sinforosa to ourselves for the night…. For 10 pesos…. See it soon cause guys like me are sharing this with the world. It won’t be long before the road is paved and the price goes up.






Camping was great under our palapa with fireplace.





Here is the caretaker of Sinforosa


Running water in los banos meant we had all the boiled water for camping and cleaning we needed. Highly recommended by Jimmer, if you have ever fancied having the Grand Canyon, all to yourself see Sinforosa! Better hurry though.












Day 7: Sinforosa to Hildago del Parral.
On our way back through Guachichi, we saw 2 familiar faces along the side of the road. Why it’s Bruce and Jean!.... we saw you at the the Pemex yesterday! You say you’re going to Hildago del Parral? Si, tambien! Vaminos al Hildago del Parral huntos!


More later!
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Old 11-03-2010, 08:22 PM   #9
garrydymond
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Mex City

I am the guy that Bruce and Jean will be staying with in Mex City. I am sorry we don't have enough space for you guys too. My son has a friend staying with us so we only have 1 extra room. Hopefully we will get to see you on Saturday and take all of you to the pyramids.

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Old 11-05-2010, 06:59 AM   #10
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Originally Posted by garrydymond
I am the guy that Bruce and Jean will be staying with in Mex City. I am sorry we don't have enough space for you guys too. My son has a friend staying with us so we only have 1 extra room. Hopefully we will get to see you on Saturday and take all of you to the pyramids.

www.garryhostel.com
Not a problem Gary. I plan to be with Bruce and Jean at the BMW shop this morning and am looking forward to meeting you. We are headed the same way to visit a friend of mine in DF.

I salute you for your kindness and generosity to fellow motorcycle travelers. I expect your what goes around comes around philosophy will pay great dividends in the future. Mi casa es su casa!

Saludos
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Old 11-05-2010, 07:07 AM   #11
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Fantastic 3 amigos ride, report and pics! Thanks for the detailed report
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Old 12-01-2010, 09:08 PM   #12
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Parral to Parras to Real de Catorce

Sorry it’s been a while since I’ve updated this thread. I’ve been back home now for almost 2 weeks. Sorry but the “live updates” are a bit difficult when you’re having too much fun. Anyway, back to the story…



We’re teamed up with the Brits! Now we’re Two Pegs to Patagonia and Tres Amigos. We are now 5 riding east from Guachochi towards Parral.



The forest soon gives way to oaks and scrub land as the road makes its way down the mountains into the hill country.




Great views and road conditions exist all the way until you reach the end of Mexico 20 and the subsequent Military checkpoint at the junction of Hildago Del Parral Guadalupe y Calvo Hwy. For some reason, the military decided to check out Jean’s luggage more closely than the rest of us as they went through both panniers quite thoroughly. After that, road construction and heavy traffic ruled the road all the way into Parral. We stayed in Parral at Hotel El Camino Real.



The room was clean, reliable hot water. Our room was around 400 pesos for three including breakfast.






Party time at the end of the day.


Day 8: Hildago del Parral to Paras de la Fuente.
Parral to Paras is a pretty good distance but can be done mostly on the Quota. But we wanted to skip the next big town, Palacío Gomez -Torreón.




Cuidad Lerdo was the name of it on this map.




Note the playground right next to the fast lane. Have fun kids!



I had found a bypass route that would eliminate having to go through Gomez Palico and Torreon that would reduce the time factor by who know's how much and presented the idea to my riding pals.



At first, my four amigos followed eagerly with confidence but soon, as the road began to deteriorate, doubts began to surface and as the group surveyed and compared their various maps, no one seemed to have this particular road on any of their maps (at least the maps agreed for once). So it was up to me to convince my four doubting amigos that I actually knew where I was going and we could get there from here. So I bribed them with a promise of full tanks of premium gas each if I mislead them in the wrong direction and we have to backtrack and go through Torreon. However, if we all ended up east of Torreon and on the cuota as planned, they would buy the drinks and I would be the hero. In retrospect, not such a good deal for me but I was confident.
Well ok then, they trusted me enough, sort of, and I did do my homework, I knew where I was going and they followed, perhaps a bit too closely at times but no one really noticed until the light turned red. Bruce has done a fine job of documenting the course of events that day and I will refer you to his blog for the dirty details.


http://www.horizonsunlimited.com/tstories/porter/004769.php


But least to say, as most riders already know, one of the biggest dangers out there are other riders you so don’t tailgate or be tailgated AND if you miss seeing that tope in time to check what’s in the rear view mirror, just stand up and go over it at speed. In our case, we were soon back on our way.



Since it was getting dark, we took the first hotel as we entered Parras, a fancy golf and tennis resort on the north side of town.



Although it was nice, it was a bit expensive and my advise is to go into town and seek out a hotel there. Parras de la Fuente is a very beautiful small colonial town. And they make their own wine. If you get the chance, stay there and enjoy it a day or two.

And they had a balloon festival, a donkey race and a bike race the next day!





Day 9: Parras de la Fuente to Real de Catorce.
The next morning we went into town and found a nice restaurant for breakfast.








After a fine meal, we took the road to the east out of Parras passing the bike racers as we left town. (no pics but there really was a bike race)

And down the pot hole infested road we went.






It’s a full days ride to Real de Catorce and a bit bumpy once you get to the uneven stone roadway that leads 15 miles or so up to the tunnel. It’s a fairly new old cobblestone like road that, for the most part, follows the old railroad bed up to the tunnel.


Throngs of buses were streaming down the hill on this Sunday Oct. 31 afternoon, the day before el Dia de Muerto. We had heard Real de Catorce was a tourist trap and we were heading right into to the tunnel of the monster. The good news was that almost all the buses were headed downhill. Bruce and Jean got a head start up the cobblestone road and by the time we got to the tunnel entrance, they were already through. At that point, Gavin’s F800 was beginning to sputter due to…. Bad gas? Who knows. He had to rev the engine the whole way through the tunnel as we followed trucks packed with people through the smelly polluted tunnel. Once through the tunnel, Gavin and Tony looked at the bike while I searched through town for our two English friends.



Success!

Success in finding them and room at their chosen Hotel sent me back to check up on my two amigos. By this time the finicky F800 had decided to start so they followed me back through town to the Hotel. The town actually cleared out Sunday night and some of the locals were coming home. So we and the locals had the town to ourselves to enjoy the street tacos and colorful “frensas” in the park.











Day 10: Real de Catorce to the Sierra Gorda
Another day of cuotas were in store for us, once down from Real de Catorce. We wanted to make it into the Sierra Gorda by nightfall. Between Rio Verde and Jalpan de Sera, there are several hotels and resorts along the river. The one we were headed to was just as the highway crosses Rio Santa Maria over a high bridge. A fellow named Kuko and his family own the property there and we had permission to camp along the river. They also have a fine restaurant and plenty of cold cervesas.



Next: The Sierra Gorda, Ixmiquilpan, Hildago, and Mexico City
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