r100gs battery? no start?

[advNZer?]

doesnt even click,idiot lights are fine headlamp seems bright.Did this yesterday to finnaly started in gear with clutch pulled.Was fine for the rest of the day.Today however the in gear clutch trick doesnt work.Gonna put battery on charge for now.Thanks for lookin

[mcma111]

It's the battery. It's ALWAYS the battery.

BTDT

[Cogswell]

Check your starter relay connections for corrosion ?


Mike

[Stagehand]

been acting just fine and dandy up till yesterday, when it did the no-click thing, out of the blue? Do you get idiot lights when the key goes to the on position?

It'll end up being the battery but it'll make you check everything else, first.

connections, everywhere. Check em. Neutral safety wires, clutch switch wires, and kills switch connections, after you check all the battery to starter terminals.

Load test the battery, too, if you can... would be helpful if it would start to do so, I know thats what youre solving for, but check the battery with a meter while its cranking, when you can. If it drops from 12 down below 8 or 9, its toast.

If none of this works, or makes anything any better, I once had to start looking for raw spots on the wiring inside the harness coming from the ignition on my R100GS when it finally couldnt be anything else. What a pain in the ass that was. Had to replace a bit of loom in there.

Good luck

[dr_snow]

Originally Posted by mcma111

It's the battery. It's ALWAYS the battery.

BTDT

Or the charging system.

[advNZer?]

thanks guys.My suspicion is the battery,it sat for a long time while i was recovering form a ruptured achilles.I think we might have a cell or two thats kaput

[Infracaninophile]

I'd always pull all the relays and reseat them as well. The only reason to do all of them is I can't remember which one is for the starter. I should get some whiteout and write "S" on it.

T.

PS: It's the battery.

[advNZer?]

Originally Posted by Infracaninophile

I'd always pull all the relays and reseat them as well. The only reason to do all of them is I can't remember which one is for the starter. I should get some whiteout and write "S" on it.

T.

PS: It's the battery.

sadly Tom I dont think it is any more :(
Battery reads 14v across the charger,12.66 at rest and 11.7 or so with both the headlamp on high(H4) AND the brakelight on.The voltage was taken after about 5 minutes of turning on the two lamps.Voltage was steady for about 30 sec duration of the test
For reason you may be able to guess i wasnt able to test the crankin voltage
Again a liitle click,slight dimmin of the idiot lights but no response at all from the starter.Will start some more in deoth checkin.Its a good time to get the battery box powder coated and the seat recovered i guess,but i would be much happier test riding the new Ohlins .
Will let yall know the outcome.

[advNZer?]

Originally Posted by Stagehand

been acting just fine and dandy up till yesterday, when it did the no-click thing, out of the blue? Do you get idiot lights when the key goes to the on position?

It'll end up being the battery but it'll make you check everything else, first.

connections, everywhere. Check em. Neutral safety wires, clutch switch wires, and kills switch connections, after you check all the battery to starter terminals.

Load test the battery, too, if you can... would be helpful if it would start to do so, I know thats what youre solving for, but check the battery with a meter while its cranking, when you can. If it drops from 12 down below 8 or 9, its toast.

If none of this works, or makes anything any better, I once had to start looking for raw spots on the wiring inside the harness coming from the ignition on my R100GS when it finally couldnt be anything else. What a pain in the ass that was. Had to replace a bit of loom in there.

Good luck

yep its out of the blue.Just had a beancan misadventure and some battery issues after the 3 month layoff.As above though the battery SEEMS fine

[fishkens]

Originally Posted by advNZer?

Did this yesterday to finnaly started in gear with clutch pulled.Was fine for the rest of the day.Today however the in gear clutch trick doesnt work.

This is interesting.

Does the neutral idiot light glow? If not, you may have a failure of both the neutral safety switch in the trans and the clutch override switch at the clutch lever. Those switches have to work or be overridden to get juice to the starter relay.

[wirewrkr]

It isn't the battery.
You would get at least a click or clunk if your lights are working and with those voltage readings.
You're gonna have to get your hands dirty, there is no magic bullet here.
Start eliminating possible failure points by taking them out of the loop.
cut-out switches etc.
It's time to learn about your starter circuitry and all the fail-safes that are built in to it.

[advNZer?]

Originally Posted by fishkens

This is interesting.

Does the neutral idiot light glow? If not, you may have a failure of both the neutral safety switch in the trans and the clutch override switch at the clutch lever. Those switches have to work or be overridden to get juice to the starter relay.

yep neutral liht g(l)oes

[advNZer?]

Originally Posted by wirewrkr

It isn't the battery.
You would get at least a click or clunk if your lights are working and with those voltage readings.
You're gonna have to get your hands dirty, there is no magic bullet here.
Start eliminating possible failure points by taking them out of the loop.
cut-out switches etc.
It's time to learn about your starter circuitry and all the fail-safes that are built in to it.

You are right.I dont have any sort of shop manual.Which is the one most people use?

[fishkens]

I don't know what most people use but I have the Haynes and a Clymer. The Clymer goes into quite a bit more depth on a number of topics. If I had to choose one it would be the Clymer but it's not perfect.

[Infracaninophile]

Do you have a colorized copy of the electrical diagram? That is one of the best tools to use.

T.