Another Ninja Mutation - Page 5

dentvet · 11-14-2010, 05:51 AM

where are you with your spoked wheels, forks and pegs?

the rear axle is 20mm and the rear disc is 220mm on these which makes the ktm wheels the most obvious donors coming in 17/18/19 configs. I'm trying to decide if there is any advantage of a 19 over an 18. i have a 17 supermoto already.

ktmklx · 11-14-2010, 07:51 PM

Here are the components I used to move the left side peg and shifter. The shifter is from a 1982 GPZ 550 that was in my atttic for 25 years. The pegs are cheap e-bay KLR off road pegs. The shoulder bolt for the shifter pivot is from Mcmaster Carr. The mounting plate is 3/16" steel. Mounting bolts are the stock Ninja mounting bolts. The u shape weldment is from a 1979 KZ 650 passenger peg (in the attic).

I removed the kick stand safety switch and sawed through the monting plate until the sawcut met a hole in the mounting bracket. After this I took a BFH and big drift and bent safety switch mounting tab verticle. I drilled and tapped this verticle tab. On the back side of the tab I welded it back to to the other half of the kick stand tab. This drilled and tapped verticle tab is the shifter pivot mount.

Total investment for this set up was under $20.00.

If I were to start all over I would try to put the shifter pivot on the peg mounting plate, that would have met modifing the shifter levers some or building a new shifter.

I will looking for folding shifters on ebay so I can cut the folding mechanism off and weld on to this shifter.

The parts have been bead blasted and will have to be painted yet. I fired the bike tonight while it was up on jack stand and ran it through the gears - seems to work good.

ktmklx · 11-14-2010, 07:53 PM

Photos

ktmklx · 11-14-2010, 08:02 PM

The right side has fewer components. I used some more 3/16" steel for the mounting plate and the opposite KZ peg mount. The master cylinder is mounted on the plate and the brake pedal pivot shaft is welded on the back side. I did have to remove some material from the cylinder mounting bosses so the the cylinder would fit between the plate and the frame. This material was used as spacing material on the Ninja set up and will not affect the mounting strength.

As mentioned earlier this moves the pegs forward 7" and lowers them about 2". This location was selected based on my KLR 650 ergonomics.

ktmklx · 11-14-2010, 08:04 PM

Here is the photo, I would also like to find a folding lever for a donor on this side as well.

ktmklx · 11-14-2010, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dentvet

where are you with your spoked wheels, forks and pegs?

the rear axle is 20mm and the rear disc is 220mm on these which makes the ktm wheels the most obvious donors coming in 17/18/19 configs. I'm trying to decide if there is any advantage of a 19 over an 18. i have a 17 supermoto already.

It would be nice to find a KTM rear wheel with cush drive but they are hard to come by. I am thinking KLR or DR650 hub with a 3.5 X 18 rim and 140 TKC. This would require a 17 mm axle and custom adjuster blocks.

Forks, still looking, thinking late model KX. I have not ruled out the late model KLR.

Front wheel, I have a 40 spoke KZ hub that is set up for dual disks. I am considering this with a 19" rim.

This project will take all winter, and the winters are long in WI. So don't be expecting this thing on some new springs and wheels in the next week or 2.

Wheedle · 11-15-2010, 03:54 AM

Good lookign welds on the peg hangars

sanjoh · 11-15-2010, 06:54 AM

Looks good, but more importantly how does it work? How about some pics of U standing on the pegs?

SamM · 11-15-2010, 07:35 PM

Looking good ktmklx. Minimal and lightweight.

Did you find forks and trees yet?

SamM

ktmklx · 11-15-2010, 08:11 PM

[quote=SamM]Looking good ktmklx. Minimal and lightweight.

Did you find forks and trees yet?

SamM[/quote

No, I was bidding on some on ebay, didn't get them. I'll keep looking.

ktmklx · 11-15-2010, 08:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sanjoh

Looks good, but more importantly how does it work? How about some pics of U standing on the pegs?

The pegs work good for sitting and standing, (when standing still, riding may be a different story) the stock ninja handle bars are a long way off and so is the seat. The seat should be raised at least 3", I'll try to do this with foam. Once I decide on forks and triple clamp I can work on the bars. Next time I have the camera out in the shop I'll get some pictures with a rider on it.

ktmklx · 11-15-2010, 08:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wheedle

Good lookign welds on the peg hangars

Thanks, Lincoln Mig Weld-Pak 100, pretty good little welder for that type of work.

sanjoh · 11-16-2010, 10:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ktmklx

The pegs work good for sitting and standing, (when standing still, riding may be a different story) the stock ninja handle bars are a long way off and so is the seat. The seat should be raised at least 3", I'll try to do this with foam. Once I decide on forks and triple clamp I can work on the bars. Next time I have the camera out in the shop I'll get some pictures with a rider on it.

I'd recommend waiting on the seat until you have the suspension in place. The seat height goes up in a hurry, mine is around 37".

What forks are you looking for?

dentvet · 11-16-2010, 01:56 PM

I did some looking over of the parts bin and the ninja. sanjoh did a ktm front end using a yamaha (R1 ?) steering stem mod and a aftermarket top clamp, right? I figured I would just follow his recipe step by step as i have most of the ktm stuff on hand. now i'm not sure....

I have YZ/wr triples and ktm triples side by side. The yz has a longer stem with double nuts compared to the ktm. I measured the length of the steering tube on my yammie WR and the ninja, they were both about 7 3/4 inches.

Another observation is that the yz triples have a bit more offset built in and the steering stop is similar to the ninja configuration. I think the ktm steering stop is the actual fork tube clamp hitting the frame. Using the yamaha triple might yield sharper turning because the fork tubes are a couple of mm further away from the frame.

YZ top clamp also has the pinch bolts forward instead of rearward position of the ktm. Gas tank clearance problem that sanjoh had to remedy with a different top clamp might be avoided.

I would prefer to have ktm stuff front and back but the yamaha stuff looks like it might be easier, once figured out. I haven't seen the bearings inside the ninja stem to guess whats needed there.

here's a neat ninja link for general faq:

http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~shanetp/Index.html

Multisurface Rider · 11-18-2010, 08:10 AM

I started a tread for pictures of Versys, V-Stroms with raised suspensions and I would like to invite you guys to post pictures of your modified Ninja 650R's and SV 650's bikes with a little run down on your mods, likes and dislikes (what would you do different if any), etc. Also if you could put a build link in your post or signature would be great. If we could do this then ever bodys build would be accessible from one tread to help me and others who want to build a custom bike. These are great bike you guys are building and are the answer to what we want. Keep on building!

Thanks

http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636726

11-14-2010, 07:51 PM	#62
ktmklx ^OP Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Oddometer: 572	Peg update Here are the components I used to move the left side peg and shifter. The shifter is from a 1982 GPZ 550 that was in my atttic for 25 years. The pegs are cheap e-bay KLR off road pegs. The shoulder bolt for the shifter pivot is from Mcmaster Carr. The mounting plate is 3/16" steel. Mounting bolts are the stock Ninja mounting bolts. The u shape weldment is from a 1979 KZ 650 passenger peg (in the attic). I removed the kick stand safety switch and sawed through the monting plate until the sawcut met a hole in the mounting bracket. After this I took a BFH and big drift and bent safety switch mounting tab verticle. I drilled and tapped this verticle tab. On the back side of the tab I welded it back to to the other half of the kick stand tab. This drilled and tapped verticle tab is the shifter pivot mount. Total investment for this set up was under $20.00. If I were to start all over I would try to put the shifter pivot on the peg mounting plate, that would have met modifing the shifter levers some or building a new shifter. I will looking for folding shifters on ebay so I can cut the folding mechanism off and weld on to this shifter. The parts have been bead blasted and will have to be painted yet. I fired the bike tonight while it was up on jack stand and ran it through the gears - seems to work good.

11-15-2010, 03:54 AM	#67
Wheedle I love inflatable fun! Joined: Apr 2004 Location: Villa Rica, GA otherwise known as Ala-damn-bammer Oddometer: 3,725	Good lookign welds on the peg hangars __________________ Where's Wheedle? Life is short, Enjoy the ride! - Todd Phillips Ride in peace brother.....

11-15-2010, 06:54 AM	#68
sanjoh Purveyor of Light Joined: Feb 2007 Location: Sandbox, FL Oddometer: 3,711	Looks good, but more importantly how does it work? How about some pics of U standing on the pegs? __________________ Model 60 LED 3600 lumens . . LED thread in Vendors Dualsport Fairing w LED...Dirt Ninja Build...TAT 08...

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11-14-2010, 05:51 AM	#61
dentvet Studly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2008 Location: hunt country virginia Oddometer: 997	where are you with your spoked wheels, forks and pegs? the rear axle is 20mm and the rear disc is 220mm on these which makes the ktm wheels the most obvious donors coming in 17/18/19 configs. I'm trying to decide if there is any advantage of a 19 over an 18. i have a 17 supermoto already.

11-14-2010, 07:53 PM	#63
ktmklx ^OP Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Oddometer: 572	Photos

11-14-2010, 08:02 PM	#64
ktmklx ^OP Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Oddometer: 572	The right side has fewer components. I used some more 3/16" steel for the mounting plate and the opposite KZ peg mount. The master cylinder is mounted on the plate and the brake pedal pivot shaft is welded on the back side. I did have to remove some material from the cylinder mounting bosses so the the cylinder would fit between the plate and the frame. This material was used as spacing material on the Ninja set up and will not affect the mounting strength. As mentioned earlier this moves the pegs forward 7" and lowers them about 2". This location was selected based on my KLR 650 ergonomics.

11-14-2010, 08:04 PM	#65
ktmklx ^OP Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Oddometer: 572	Here is the photo, I would also like to find a folding lever for a donor on this side as well.

11-15-2010, 07:35 PM	#69
SamM Adventurer Joined: Nov 2004 Location: West Virginia Oddometer: 1,464	Looking good ktmklx. Minimal and lightweight. Did you find forks and trees yet? SamM

11-15-2010, 08:11 PM	#70
ktmklx ^OP Studly Adventurer Joined: Jul 2008 Oddometer: 572	[quote=SamM]Looking good ktmklx. Minimal and lightweight. Did you find forks and trees yet? SamM[/quote No, I was bidding on some on ebay, didn't get them. I'll keep looking.

11-16-2010, 01:56 PM	#74
dentvet Studly Adventurer Joined: Aug 2008 Location: hunt country virginia Oddometer: 997	I did some looking over of the parts bin and the ninja. sanjoh did a ktm front end using a yamaha (R1 ?) steering stem mod and a aftermarket top clamp, right? I figured I would just follow his recipe step by step as i have most of the ktm stuff on hand. now i'm not sure.... I have YZ/wr triples and ktm triples side by side. The yz has a longer stem with double nuts compared to the ktm. I measured the length of the steering tube on my yammie WR and the ninja, they were both about 7 3/4 inches. Another observation is that the yz triples have a bit more offset built in and the steering stop is similar to the ninja configuration. I think the ktm steering stop is the actual fork tube clamp hitting the frame. Using the yamaha triple might yield sharper turning because the fork tubes are a couple of mm further away from the frame. YZ top clamp also has the pinch bolts forward instead of rearward position of the ktm. Gas tank clearance problem that sanjoh had to remedy with a different top clamp might be avoided. I would prefer to have ktm stuff front and back but the yamaha stuff looks like it might be easier, once figured out. I haven't seen the bearings inside the ninja stem to guess whats needed there. here's a neat ninja link for general faq: http://homepages.slingshot.co.nz/~shanetp/Index.html

11-18-2010, 08:10 AM	#75
Multisurface Rider Gnarly Adventurer Joined: Apr 2009 Location: San Antonio, TX Oddometer: 383	I started a tread for pictures of Versys, V-Stroms with raised suspensions and I would like to invite you guys to post pictures of your modified Ninja 650R's and SV 650's bikes with a little run down on your mods, likes and dislikes (what would you do different if any), etc. Also if you could put a build link in your post or signature would be great. If we could do this then ever bodys build would be accessible from one tread to help me and others who want to build a custom bike. These are great bike you guys are building and are the answer to what we want. Keep on building! Thanks http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=636726