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Old 07-14-2012, 05:55 AM   #166
yamahaman OP
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seat design

Francesco
The flat rear section (where the blue marker line is) has two sheetmetal braces to be bonded into it as this is how the seat is fixed to the sub frame and will be the same as the original seat. One is where the bolts are and the other is directley above the cross brace on the subframe so these two metal/alloy braces, which will be bonded to the seat base, will supprort all of the seated weight.

I totally agree with the less is more thing. I am thinking of only one more layer of the heavy matting over the entire base (in one piece) with two small triangles of matting to fill a small section at the front.

Love the feedback

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Old 07-14-2012, 06:37 AM   #167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yamahaman View Post
Francesco
The flat rear section (where the blue marker line is) has two sheetmetal braces to be bonded into it as this is how the seat is fixed to the sub frame and will be the same as the original seat. One is where the bolts are and the other is directley above the cross brace on the subframe so these two metal/alloy braces, which will be bonded to the seat base, will supprort all of the seated weight.

I totally agree with the less is more thing. I am thinking of only one more layer of the heavy matting over the entire base (in one piece) with two small triangles of matting to fill a small section at the front.

Love the feedback

Keep up the good work!!!
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Old 07-14-2012, 07:57 AM   #168
Bubba Bauer
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Thumb seatbase

Hey!

When I was road racing I broke/cracked a good couple of seat units biberglass is really rigid and very stiff but luckily really cheap! Flex, vibration, pounding, impacts will easily crack them, heat will make them a bit wobbly, but on the other hand fix takes about 5 minutes if u have the stuff with you!

It`s a bit OK lot more expensive, but why don`t you try

http://www.carbonfiber.com.au/ victorian company or http://www.amcsupplies.com.au/

I don`t know anything about the victorians but the Adelaide mob is really helpful, but they just started to deal with CF stuff so they don`t really have to much knowledge, but they have heaps of stuff on the molding side of things!

Maybe you can hunt down fiberglass/CF, carbon/kevlar weaves which are way cheaper and you never ever have any issues with your seat

nowadays laying CF is not to much harder than fiberglass (just more expensive )

if you want to know more http://advrider.com/forums/showthrea...603891&page=11 and ebrabaek is the godfather of fibres here and on TT as well and VERY helpful so shoot him a PM!



Good luck awesome project!


BTW where did you get that universal triple clamp? Is it just eye candy or do you have good experiences with them?
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Old 07-15-2012, 06:22 AM   #169
yamahaman OP
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Thumb reevised seat option

Well After some good input and a bit of help I had a look at the seat base and realised that the under side was a bit too shaped and curvey with no good flat sections in it. This was going to prove dificult to get a good seat fixing.

I have had a bike loose its seat though some seriously deep whoops once (another tale for another day).

I also discovered that I had been rather generous with the extra space for the battery there was over 50 mm to the underside of the seat. Now I am surley no "Andre the giant" and need all of the leg room I can get so to kill two birds with one stone I went to me work and fabricated a stainless tray. This tray will serve two functions one will be to hold the seat base to the bike and I have made it to support 90% of my ass weight which is a bit at the moment so ther will not be heaps of weight directly on the seat base.



Here is a picture of how much I have cut out of the base I have lowered I by around 30mm and this is also giving it a flatter line at the front of the seat. The tray I fabricated is under the grey duct tape (forgot to get a picture).



Here is the curing product.

I have layed two complete pieces of 600gm woven roving over the entire seat and cut out a flat piece cut out to match the hole sandwiched in between. I then put two 100mm wide strips across the sharp crease at the front to give some extra support because this looks like a point of weakness.

I am hopfully going to talk to the guy whe used to make these things

http://www.biketechnologies.com/inde...d=54&Itemid=60

he has just retired and is a mates brother in laws father or something. Not sure there but will see if I can have a chat to him.

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Old 07-15-2012, 06:38 AM   #170
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Looking great!

When I ran a big end on my Wr450, I contemplated shoving a XT660 Engine in there. I figured a great chassis and a reliable engine could make an awesome do it all bike!

This bike is coming along pretty good! Hats off to you mate!
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Old 07-17-2012, 06:06 AM   #171
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seat ready for foam

So I went out and got some over priced washers from the local hardware store and got ready to fix the fiberglass upper to the steel lower piece. Because I layed the new section of seat base directly over the metal bracket underneath the fix was perfect towards the back of the seat there was a bit of a gap. I have filled the gap with some sikaflex polyurathane this will mean the seat and bracket will never come apart but thats kinda the idea. The polyurathane is perfect for filling these sorts of gaps, tough, flexible and hard wearing.



As you can see the base plate is supported over three points and will take most of the weight and the fiberglass top is to hold the foam and give it a more appealing look.



Here I have glued the first piece of foam on and this will give the seat a smoother base to glue the rest of the foam down with and start the shaping process off quite nicely. You can see where I have used the over sized washers to stop the riverts from pulling through.

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Old 07-18-2012, 07:06 AM   #172
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Thumb glue grind shape glue grind shape ass perch ready

I have finished the ass perch and will be going to the auto trimmers tomorrow to get the cover done so the seat will be totally finished its a bit on the lard side but I want to get the bike rolling and although time consuming not a particulary hard task so I would not have a problem in making another one, I also heaps of materials left over



Kinda hard to see but its flat wide seat with a slim section at the front to make standing easier. There is three densitys of foam the black is the hardest blue is medium and the top layer of white is the softer layer.

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Old 07-20-2012, 05:13 AM   #173
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motor fitted

I have fitted the motor and only have to make two spacers for the swing arm bolt and I can then touque all of the mounting bolts up.

Then I have to work on the air induction system and the exhaust will post these as the work comes along



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Old 07-23-2012, 03:36 AM   #174
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inlet and exhaust

Well I have been getting creative and I have done the inlet manifold and the header pipe.

The inlet is not exactly how I had planned for things to go due the pumper being almost impossible to put in so this contraption will have to do. Now I know its not ideal but I want to get this thing rolling and it somthing I can revisit a little later on when I have a bit more time. The header pipe virtually fell in to place and it took me no longer than 25 min and it was done. I bought an expander home from work and simply started cutting and it will now fit a standard 07 wr exhaust if I wanted to.

Nah all to to now is the mid pipe, tank mounts and wire it







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Old 07-23-2012, 04:12 AM   #175
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Looking good Hamish. By the way..... have a bike again, so can go for a ride with you when you get over this way. Long story, but have bought my old DRZ back!
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Old 07-23-2012, 04:20 AM   #176
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You forgot to include the Nitrous Oxide inlet bung!!
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Old 07-24-2012, 06:53 AM   #177
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Wicked Im exhausted

Another midnight session and I have got the exhaust ready to weld together


Had a heap of old yz/wr 450 exhausts so I cut up the pipes to make this section of pipe came together well considering all the bits are scrap.

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Old 07-25-2012, 05:30 AM   #178
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Talking exhaust fully finished

I have made a slight change to the exhaust to fit in one extra slip joint to make the pipe into three pieces. I also had all of the oem fittings so I managed to modify one of the mounting bolts so that the pipe has a fixing in the middle near the air box on the sub frame.

I dropped the spring out to the end of the adjustment to get it close to the full compression to see how my clearances are and its all good




I know the caliper clears so I took it off to get a better picture.

Im not sure what the yz exhausts are made out of but I dont think is steel I think its some sort of stainless alloy or a titanium alloy because there was not a spot of rust on any of the pipes and they are quite thin wall my guess in that they are a stainless alloy of some kind but for the steel size it is very light. It welded fine with a mild steel filler rod so I just dont know. Any body got any clues?

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Old 07-25-2012, 03:52 PM   #179
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im guessing you used tig? im an apprentice welder, and am still learning the little tricks, but if i'm not mistaken you can weld stainless together with mild steel without much difficulty just that mild steel doesn't have chromium and other chemicals in it to prevent rusting, so it will rust much quicker, i dont think it would be titanium as you need special filler rod for it to work, when in doubt..... .do a spark test, take a grinder and just tap it, bright white is titanium i believe, stainless is a dark red spark without alot of forks
awesome bike by the way! i wish i could do that to my wr
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Old 07-26-2012, 03:08 AM   #180
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Question I thinks its a stainless of some kind

Quote:
Originally Posted by qwiky View Post
im guessing you used tig? im an apprentice welder, and am still learning the little tricks, but if i'm not mistaken you can weld stainless together with mild steel without much difficulty just that mild steel doesn't have chromium and other chemicals in it to prevent rusting, so it will rust much quicker, i dont think it would be titanium as you need special filler rod for it to work, when in doubt..... .do a spark test, take a grinder and just tap it, bright white is titanium i believe, stainless is a dark red spark without alot of forks
awesome bike by the way! i wish i could do that to my wr
Not quite red sparks but definatly not white and yeah I have a high frequencey tig welder.

When I was cutting it by hand to get the nice mitre angles it had that really tough feeling about it I think it is a thin walled (0.9mm) steel with some kind of stainless plating over the top or an odd stainless alloy. The e-70 mild steel filler wire worked well and has worked well in the past.

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