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01-21-2011, 12:07 AM
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#151 |
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Bend it Bend it
Joined: Nov 2003
Location: Sydney
Oddometer: 5,437
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Many thanks as many others have said GB, another great 640 reference thread.
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02-14-2011, 09:17 PM
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#152 |
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I.Hopp.
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,078
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Update
I've put 3000 KM on the rebuild now and have been dealing on and off with a minor jetting issue...
Right after the rebuild I ended up with a bog off idle... I moved the needle down 1 clip leaner and this got rid of most of it but not all... What I ended up with was slight leanness on the needle range { 1/4 throttle} and still slightly rich near the bottom... The only time the bog was present was when the bike idled for a minute and then you cracked the throttle... The pilot fuel screw did not have an affect on the bog so it looked like I would have to lean the pilot jet... I ordered a 42.5 pilot jet, installed it and still had the bog so I was left with one more option... I pulled the pilot air jet out of the carb bell and reamed it out slightly larger and reinstalled it... I put things back together and shimmed the jet needle 1/2 position richer, gave her a try and no more bog... It still feels a little lean at the 1/4 throttle range so I'll pull the shim off the needle and reset the clip so it it will be a full position richer and that should do it... I also pulled the fuel pump apart to change the diaphragms inside... The old ones have been working in there for about 100 k km and still looked good but new ones were fitted for piece of mind... Rebuilding or replacing the brake calipers will be the next preventative measure on the list... Edit, Moved the clip position one full richer and that fixed the 1/4 throttle lean feeling, bike runs as close to perfect as I'll ever get it... My setup: Exhaust: stock Supertrapp with relief holes... Airbox : stock with snorkel in place and KTM screen side cover... Main Jet: 160 Needle jet F.P. titanium needle 3rd clip position Pilot fuel Jet: 42.5 and then back to 45 after reaming the air jet Pilot air Jet: 1.2 reamed to 1.3 Fuel screw: 2.5 turns from closed Fuel economy with above setting 17.50 KM/PL Update edit: Well as close to perfect on the jetting isn't for me... The bike went like a rocket but also used fuel like one so I made changes.... Return the airbox sidecover to stock, snorkel in place Main jet down 2 sizes to 155 Return stock needle in 2nd clip from top Pilot 45 fuel screw 2.5 I'll update fuel economy once I run a tank.. Update: Ran through a tank of gas and economy improved to 19.95 KM/PL with a lot of high speed running... This works out to about 2.5 KM/PL more than the rocket jetting returned, based on a full tank that gives me another 60-65 KM of range...
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640 A x 2 gunnerbuck screwed with this post 03-17-2011 at 06:33 PM |
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02-25-2011, 10:20 AM
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#153 |
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Catching up with my past
Joined: May 2009
Location: North Vancouver - ex Jo'burg, SA
Oddometer: 71
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Lighting
Hi David, I just picked up a 2005 KTM LC4 in good condition with 46600km so will need as much advice as possible in what to attend to. Runs smoothly and well but then again I'm a KTM virgin so at the steep end of the learning curve on this model. Your post is amazing and I really appreciate how much work a rebuild like this is.
 One thing jumped out of your video - your head light was off while the bike was running. How did you set that up as mine is on always. As you know this model does NOT even kick start with a flat battery so disabling the lights is important to me if my battery is flat and I'm stuck in the bush. Did you add a switch somewhere?  Any advice is much appreciated. Lane IMG_2225.jpg |
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02-25-2011, 10:25 AM
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#154 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Oddometer: 8,040
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Quote:
 Not sure if there is a Euro switch that will allow the light to be turned off. There is for lc8 which is a common mod for North American owners. Else I expect you'll need to modify the wiring, add switch etc. Nice looking bike btw, congrats
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02-25-2011, 10:34 AM
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#155 |
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Traveler
Joined: Jul 2005
Location: Traveler
Oddometer: 4,005
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Guys,
An easy solution is to put an on/off switch on the dash that breaks the ground wire on the low beam shuting it off. Works like a charm. bill
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'02 KTM 640 Adventure-lowered "On the road there are no special cases." Cormack McCarthy-The Crossing The faster it goes the faster it breaks. And high performance=high maintenance. Bill Shockley |
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02-25-2011, 10:37 AM
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#156 |
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Lost
Joined: Nov 2008
Location: Finland
Oddometer: 654
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Plug and play (for '03 and up 640 LC4's also...).
Also available from your local KTM dealer, with part number 60011074000 START-STOP SWITCH/LIGHT SW. 03 -T |
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02-25-2011, 10:43 AM
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#157 | |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Mar 2006
Location: Portland, OR
Oddometer: 8,040
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Quote:
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02-25-2011, 04:53 PM
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#158 | |
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I.Hopp.
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,078
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Quote:
I haven't installed a headlight switch as of yet... There is a position on the ignition switch between the off setting and steering lock setting that will allow you to fire up the bike without lights in case of a dead battery... I sometimes inadvertently start the bike with the ignition in this position and then wonder why my lights aren't working... After a moment or 2 it dawns on me and I turn the keyswitch all the way to the right... Do you have service records for the first 46 K so you know what maintenance has been done to the bike?
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640 A x 2 |
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02-25-2011, 05:04 PM
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#159 |
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Beastly Adventurer
Joined: Oct 2003
Location: Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
Oddometer: 2,765
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Very interesting read!!! For longer cables, Motion-Pro is the answer!
http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/custom/ |
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02-25-2011, 09:16 PM
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#160 | |
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Catching up with my past
Joined: May 2009
Location: North Vancouver - ex Jo'burg, SA
Oddometer: 71
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Quote:
Hi David, I've heard of this switch position on other bikes but I don't have that sweet spot on my ignition which is much needed. I do have place for the KTM switch on my starter. Here is a photo of my ignition switch (A Zadi q933)- does yours look different? I'm getting the service records tomorrow. |
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02-25-2011, 09:25 PM
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#161 | |
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Catching up with my past
Joined: May 2009
Location: North Vancouver - ex Jo'burg, SA
Oddometer: 71
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Quote:
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02-25-2011, 09:38 PM
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#162 |
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Catching up with my past
Joined: May 2009
Location: North Vancouver - ex Jo'burg, SA
Oddometer: 71
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I don't want to highjack this thread with my bike stuff but I am appreciating the prompt and willing response from my new Orange family.
If there is a better thread for my questions please point me there.  I've just installed a new battery as the original was dying after 4 starts and the lights are sucking up a lot of power on idle. (Have not gone riding yet as weather is -3 in North Vancouver and I've not insured it for the road yet.) On replacing the battery I note that the snorkle above the air filter box is removed (the snorkle was in the very full box of tools and goodies that came with the bike). Is there a benefit to using the snorkle? There must be better airflow without it? |
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02-25-2011, 10:23 PM
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#163 |
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I.Hopp.
Joined: Nov 2005
Location: N.V.I, B.C.
Oddometer: 3,078
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Your snorkel was likely removed to add flow in order to keep up with the Hindle exhaust... It is very likely that your jetting was also changed from stock...
Some say that removing the snorkel somewhat disrupts the venturi effect in the airbox... KTM offers a hard parts accessory screened airbox sidecover that is designed to add flow without removing the snorkel... I've ridden a friends bike that has the airbox snorkel cut out and it's pretty fast though he does complain about some hesitation when cracking the throttle... With your mileage it would be a good idea to inspect the wiring for shorts caused by vibration abrasion... Pull the right side cover and check the wires going into the CDI and the starter relay... Take the dashboard off and check the wire clusters mounted to the fairing brace as well... It's best to make sure it's just an old battery and not some kind of short that sucking out the juice... Good Luck... David.
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640 A x 2 |
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03-01-2011, 06:24 AM
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#164 |
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Ignostic
Joined: Feb 2004
Location: Circumlocution Office of Little Dorrit
Oddometer: 13,840
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Kronreif Trunkenpolz Mattighofen LC4 640 Its not so much staying alive; its staying human that counts. |
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03-01-2011, 12:36 PM
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#165 | |
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KTiM
Joined: Mar 2008
Location: Used to live in Crestview FL, now ????
Oddometer: 446
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Quote:
Somewhere I posted what I did?? If your switch is the one that has the left / right turn signal on the bottom and the light switch up top. Both switches are 3 position switches. There is a plastic nub on the inside of the head light switch that prevents it from switching to what would be the off position on North American models. That little nub can be trimmed down with a razor knife to allow the switch to be moved to the off position. The whole assembly is riveted together so you have to drill the rivets to take it apart(I do not recommend this) I did it and it was a pain to get back together. Not to mention the little springs and ball bearings that go flying. Do this instead. If you take a flashlight and shin it in there as you move the switch from hi to low then continue to move it to what would be off, you'll see the little nub come in contact with the inside of the switch housing. With the switch on the bars, use a razor to cut off the top of the nub, take the switch off the bars and get that little piece of plastic out. Remount the switch and cut off the rest of the nub, flush with the switch. Take the switch off again and get that piece of plastic out. Done!!!  Now might also be a good time to turn the headlight switch around for better access to the horn button. My .02 FWIW Now, back to the thread....
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~Tim "04625 SXC '04 625 SMC 76,xxx mi. '97 CR500 Sold 
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